Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Gas Pumps Won't Shut Off
Feb 4, 2016
I have an unusual problem with my Sonata. Every time I fill it up with gas, the pumps do not shut off properly and gas spills all over the car and ground. This has been happening for the past several months. For a while, I assumed the problem was in the pumps themselves. However, it has happened with so many different pumps that I was wondering if it might be a problem with the car. Is there a sensor or a vent or something in the gas tank that lets the pump know when it is near full? If so, how do I fix it?
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I have read a few other posts in regards to this issue. My parking lights do not turn off when the car is shut off and lights are either manually turned off or if the auto function is used. I understand that it is the drivers side fuse box that has a relay built into it that controls the on/off function of the parking lights. I do not see anywhere that I can buy the fuse box. The local dealer wants me to pay for diagnostics before going any further.
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I've got an 89 F-150 dual tanks. Getting no power to tank pumps. High pressure pump runs good when key turned on. Have checked wires to fuel selector switch and no power there. Since high pressure pump is running I'm thinking there's a bad splice but how do you find where it is? On the wiring diagram it shows there's a splice (marked C277 just past inertia switch) but where is C277 located? Also, the diagram wire colors don't quite match my truck
Just FYI the wiring diagram doesn't quite match my truck. Not unusual I'm sure. The diagram says the power wire from inertia switch to high pressure pump and fuel selector switch is PK/BK (pink/black) but no pink black wire. There's a red/yellow wire that matches the size of the red one (red to fuel pump) coming off the selector switch. I'm guessing that's it.
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Appears to me like third gear has to pump its self up to get going from the Beginning of the gear. With a steady half throttle acceleration its seems to push its self up to 25000 rmps than quickly surge back down a bit and then continue to run through the gear. I dont feel like its the turbo spooling *but very well could be* cause than i feel like i might feel it in other gears which i dont. This seems to happen in my o6 and my Mothers 08 ( B6 as well) both auto
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1991 940 SE Turbo ... I am trying to figure out why there is no power to the 10 amp fuel pump fuse. Drove the car all day with no issues at all.. The next morning it just wont start. Found it wasn't getting fuel..I have replaced the tank pump thinking a shorted pump would disable the system, I have replaced the in tank Fuel Pump, Nothing. The fuel pump relay, Nothing, and pulled the under car fuel pump and checked it and its fine. I don't get it?? what could it be? I went to the library to get a copy of the wiring diagram, but the Chilton's Mechanic wiring bible was so smudged I could not even read it..
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07 Prius 140k miles. Flushed brakes at 132k miles with techstream directions [URL] ...... Follow the path without actuator or master cylinder removal. Went smoothly, no funny noises or codes after.
Brakes making multiple clicking / pump type of noise within last couple of months under these situations.
1. when nearing a stop
2. crawling along slowly with brakes on
3. backing up which is like #2
Braking force is fine and linear response. Brake fluid reservoir level is good. I'm thinking flushing it again.
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Need to replace fuel pump. How do I remove seat bottoms.
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I replaced my injectors n ficm, truck runs great. Now my wipers dont work. Turn signals, hi beams work. Got power at both fuses and they have continuity but no wipers or washer pump. Looking for a diagram for this? Is the motor located under the front cowl?
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I have a 1965 Chevrolet with the original 396 engine. When I purchased the car, I noticed the fuel pump was wet with fuel at the weep holes. I replaced the pump with a new one. This pump also leaked at the weep holes. I thought dirt may have been in the fuel tank and the check valves were stuck causing the leak. I installed a glass inline fuel filter before the fuel pump and installed another new pump. There is no dirt in the filter. This pump also is leaking from the weep holes. The pump only leaks when I give it full throttle and bring the car up well over 65 mph. I would like to retain the stock type of fuel pump. I'm wondering if the pump push rod is a replacement at some time and too long.
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Ranger wont fire! fuel pumps not pumping..... Jumped fuel pump relay and got both pumps working, but while jumping relay and cranking motor, still no fire. Plenty of fuel pressure though. got spark too. Replaced relay and no pumps working while key is turned to run or while cranking. I got to get this sweet puppy back on the tarmac...
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This is a pretty standard feature in any other car (at least Fords and GMs that I know of), but not in the sonata. Is there a mod that can be done so that the radio stays on until the doors are opened after the car is shut off?
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I was driving and got off the freeway exit ramp and while I was waiting to make a left turn, the car all of a sudden started sputtering (RPM's were low up and down on idle) and eventually died while waiting to make a left turn.
Turned on the engine again.. same sputtering occurred and had to gas it so it wouldn't turn off.. Finally got to the side of the road.. turned the car off checked the oil.. no issues.. engine temperature was fine.. no check engine light.
After about 30 min later, turned the car on and it seemed to be normal again so I carefully drove to the dealer and encountered no issues. Took the car to the dealer and they couldn't find anything.
I drive a 2015 Hyundai Sonata Limited with about 19k miles now.
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I installed a factory remote start system on my 2011 sonata. the car will start run for a few seconds then shut off and the start sequence begins again this happens over and over until I unlock the door and add pressure to the brake pedal.
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My sonata 2011 yf suddenly engine shut down in 20 - 30 meters after start or stop...
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Three times in recent months, when I park my 2011 Sonata and shut off the engine, the radio remains on, the doors won't lock, and when I exit the vehicle, I hear a tone that tells me I have removed the key from the car. The headlights also stay on(see "smart-key-immobilizer-problem" thread, by SOZAR in this forum. My symptoms are exactly the same, including the fact that the problem goes away on its own). No code is posted, and the dealer can't reproduce the problem, so they won"t do anything about it. I have a case open with Hyundai, but no luck.
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My mother has a 2012 sonata. She told me that her drl will shut off when she turns her headlights on. Is this normal or is something maybe wrong. She also mentioned that they will sometimes shut off at random while driving.
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I was filling up my tank, as I was running in fumes a few days ago (just 14 miles before death as per trip computer) and to my surprise, when I filled my tank, it only went roughly up to 16 gallons (15.9xx to be precise) before the nozzle kept shutting off. Was the nozzle defective (or was I in a rush for not waiting until the vapors leave the tank?) or the 18.5 gallon tank has a ~2.5 gallon reserve that even the instrument gauge doesn't account for, as it was all the way in the E with the yellow gas pump icon on?
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The pumps at times will function what appears to be normal. At other times the pumps will not stop running and it is at those times when the engine does not like to run.
I do not know if the engine will not run due to too much pressure or not enough fuel pressure. The problem is with both tanks and pumps so I do not believe the problem is inside either of the tanks.
One problem is that I just got the truck and the prior owner had at times done a little work and you know how that can be a problem. He could have done some damage to some hoses or who knows what. He had replaced the radiator and the left side exhaust manifold recently, though at different times. He thinks the problem started around the time he did the radiator. I know it doesn't make sense but things can get bumped or damaged.
What would the problem be that it could come and go? I drove it for a few miles and I thought that maybe the problem had gone away after I replaced what appeared to be a short vacuum line by the throttle body. But the problem still comes and goes. Now the truck is stuck till I figure the problem out.
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Today i drove 45 mins to the mall without incident. When i went to leave i noticed after starting the car my radiator fan came on and wouldn't shut off. Its 20 degrees (F) outside. Driving home there was a slight skip a few times going through the rev range while shifting. Later on today when starting the car it just cranked and didnt start until i put my foot on the gas peddle. Its done this everytime now since. (5 or 6 start cycles). A day ago i removed the stock air box and put on a cone filter, i had no issues until today. (24 hrs later) the car has 82k miles. Plugs were last done around 20k if thats relevant.
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My turbos shut down intermittently, after several hours of highway driving and after shutting the ignition off. Upon re-start, the check engine light illuminates and I have no turbos. Letting the car sit (turned off) for several hours will re-set them back into operation. Three visits to the shop have not solved the problem and the technicians have no clues. I don't think the turbos themselves are to blame. More likely the computer is getting a signal from somewhere that is prompting it to set a trouble code and disable the turbos. Is this what is called "limp mode"?
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Lately Passat 2006 come up with new problem, when I stop at red light and hold brake engine kicks once or twice like it wants to shut off. right now it has only 1 error code P2181 coolant problem( check engine light is ON since I've got this car -own more then 5 years but before it was some air manifold code and p2181). I don't think this code related to this problem, I know my thermostat is not working properly- temperature is jumping from 160 to 200 when driving but never overheat. Beside kicking engine, it's takes little longer to start up engine in the morning, once I drive, it's fine- I can start in seconds.
7 month ago mechanic replace water pump and timing belt.
I found : " When the car is running, try taking the oil cap off- if you have to fight to even get it to turn, then it is a problem with the PCV valve on the front of the valve cover. It is a common issue. The valve sticks open and applies full manifold vacuum to the crankcase".
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