So I recently took over my wife's 06 GLS 3.3 and gave up my 3.5L Saturn Vue Redline - Any ways the sonata has 60k miles on it and vibrates on the highway around 65-70 mph. Are there any other things I should be looking on with this car?
View 6 RepliesMy car has had random misfiring when at idle and has been shaking really bad but once I accelerate and get up to speed the vibrations and misfiring stop but the check engine light flashes for a few minutes. I have changed spark plugs, all 6 ignition coils the intake manifold gasket and both camshaft position sensors. My car has 180K the codes that are showing up are 300,301,303 and 0016. I really love the car and have had no prior issues the car before this ran like a champ.
View 2 RepliesMy 2007 3.3 Sonata has begun acting up at a cold start up. The motor shakes violently and I have to cut it off and try again. It normally smooths out. This has happened intermittently two or three times in the past three years but happened twice today.
I am out of town at the moment and my wife has the car. She is worried about driving. I am thinking it is some type of sensor etc. If I knew what it was I could have her take it in and I could monitor the repair process.
Car has a weird shaking or vibrating coming from the middle or the rear of the car, I can't really describe it. You can only notice it at low speeds, and it's only noticeable after you drive for a while, it doesn't happen immediately. It happens whether you press on the brake or not, just while driving. I'm not sure how I should handle the situation either. I changed my rotors and brake pads because I thought that might have been the problem, but it turned out it wasn't.
I took it to the dealer, they said it was the end links that were loose so they changed that. It didn't fix the problem. I took the car back, and they checked it out, they couldn't locate the problem. They put it on the lift, said it wasn't the sway bar, suspension, etc.
They said because I didn't change the "brake pad clips"(I'm not sure what to call them), and they appear to be the original ones that came with the car, I'm not really sure if they are or not, but I know the brake pads were changed once, but maybe that wasn't changed, I need to change them first, and since they looked for a problem and don't want to waste more of their time (basically what they told me, they will start charging me to find the problem now), they will charge me $159 labor + $20 for the part + tax to change it. Now it may or may not fix the problem, that may not be the problem at all, and if it doesn't fix it then I'm out almost $200 for no reason. They said they don't want to waste time, and it's ridiculous to look for a problem with my car. But the problem is it's a vibration or a shaking, and I would think that SHOULD be covered by the warranty.
Should I try taking this to a different dealer, and pretty much never go back there again? Get the part changed myself at a different mechanic shop, as I don't see a reason to spend $179 + tax at Hyundai.
My vehicle works absolutely beautifully except between 75 and 105 km/hr where I experience sputtering. This does not happen under load but just when I am maintaining a constant speed. It feels like misfires but I don't get a check engine light when it occurs. Misfires would definitely trigger the check engine light. I've tried the obvious solutions:
Used fuel system cleaner in case I got a bad tank of gas
Used fuel additive to eliminate any water in the tank
Changed the oil and filter (it was due anyway)
Replaced the air filter (it was also due)
Cleaned the MAF Sensor
Replaced the spark plugs
None of this has made any appreciable difference in the performance of the vehicle. The sputtering persists.
The car does not have traditional spark plug wires. Instead it has ignition coils which run about $140 each from the dealership. I may eventually have to change one or more coils but I'll try cheaper solutions first.
My next step is to replace the crankshaft position sensor. You may have noticed that I am problem solving starting with the least expensive solution and progressing to more expensive repairs.
2006 Sonata GLS 3.3L v6 ... Vehicle has 192,000 miles and generally runs well but has started stalling out on the highway. Seems like it stalls more when turning on an exit ramp or after going over a rough spot or pothole on the road but not always. Not sure if anything in particular leads up to it. The car stalls, the power steering and brakes become unresponsive, all the dashboard lights come on, and I have to pull over and stop completely to try restarting. Usually starts right back up but sometimes it takes several tries. Took it to AAA auto care but since they couldn't recreate the problem, they weren't able to identify the issue. They did say that their diagnostic equipment was unable to access/communicate with the on-board computer for the engine if that makes any sense.
View 2 RepliesIs it normal that while driving I can see my headlights wiggling? I have only noticed it on the highway and it is on all types of highway surfaces. I wouldn't doubt it if it was also happening on regular streets as well.
What I mean is that while driving at night on the highway if I look at highway signs or big rigs in front of my car I can see the lights shining from my headlights and they are shaking like crazy.
Have a 2007 Sonata (2.4 L inline 4) and been plagued with rough/shaking car when initially started and pull to stop, and generally goes away when fully warmed up. Recently had oil change and service area switched me to a lower viscosity oil (5W30 to 5W20) and checked a solenoid and it was fine. Also did a fuel service treatment I suppose in an attempt to flush out stuff........I was a little surprised he didn't pursue talking about tuning up aspects but maybe none of those codes flashed......a repeating code I do have is Code 11.........though I confess when the codes refer to emission stuff I sort of ignore them.......
View 12 RepliesMy 2009 sonata started having issues with slight up and down accelerations while cruising and the check engine light would come on Then during start up the engine would accelerate up and down about 1500 rpms. I have taken it to two dealers neither could find anything wrong and said their was no record of an event on the computer. Now the car is stalling while driving, once at highway speed. It has happened three time this week. After coming to a stop, I wait a few minutes and the car starts up like their is nothing wrong. The engine light comes on for a while.
View 9 RepliesWhen I'm driving at a certain speed (usually between 65-70 mph), my 06 Sonata GLS V6 develops a really soft (but really annoying) high-pitched whine that decreases when you take your foot off the gas. Not much at other speeds (sometimes it will kick in real quick at high rpm before the automatic trans shifts), but when the car hits 66-67 mph that little subtle whine kicks in. By 75 mph, it's gone (I drive 75+). Sounds just like a high-pitched dog whistle.
Not a wind noise....sometimes it sounds like it comes from below me, sometimes it sounds like it's coming from the dash. Dealer don't hear anything (of course), even when I'm in the car with the tech and can hear it (maybe I'm part dog.....who knows).
Here's my guess.......I think that it's the electric fuel pump. Sometimes if I'm outside the car, I'll hear a whine back in the fuel area that is almost the same pitch as the whine I hear at 70. Since the whine varies (or disappears) with engine rpm and application of the gas pedal, my thought is that I'm hearing the fuel pump hit a certain pitch, which causes the whine.
2006 Sonata?
I just bought a 2007 Sonata V6 (GL or GLS). Before buying the car, the last owner had the rear brakes "serviced" because the mechanic said the brakes were "sticking" - charged the old owner $300 for it. When I am on the highway and I brake, the rear brakes shudder. Do you think the shudder is because the rear brakes are still sticking, or because it needs new rotors?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2009 Hyundai Sonata V6 3.3. I'm currently about to hit 65k miles. About 2 weeks ago i felt the transmission slipping while I was on the highway. Yesterday my check engine light came on. I took it to my mechanic; according to the reader, the Dampener Clutch System was the problem. This morning when I took the car out, I realized that the Check Engine light went away but still could feel the transmission slipping.
View 5 RepliesI have been hearing an intermittent high pitched squeal at 50 MPH and higher. Taking my foot off the gas or taking it out of gear doesn't change the noise. Hitting a bump or tapping the brakes makes it stop momentarily. It sounds like it is coming from the front driver side, though it's hard to tell.
I have about 33,000 miles on the car. My manual says that the brake pad replacement indicator should squeal when the brakes are applied.
This has happened multiple times but this last time was the dangerous one. I was driving home from work on Friday on the tollway which is very straight but does have some slight turns in it (construction). So I am at highway speeds for some time and one of these slight turns comes up. I try to turn my wheel but nothing happens. I apply more and more force until it finally decides to turn and by that time I am applying so much force, it jerks really hard. If the car didn't finally decide to turn, I would have hit the highway barrier. I am lucky that no one was next to me or I might have hit them.
-This only happens at sustained highway speeds, city driving is perfect.
-It doesn't happen every time I am on the highway, it is intermittent.
-It does not have a bias with regard to direction (left turn or right).
-I have put some Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF in my reservoir to add fluid to my system with whatever was currently in there when I bought the car @ 75K miles. Car currently has 130K miles. Is there some sort of write up for PS maintenance/flush? I need to pull the return to drain, right?
-I do have a rubber on rubber squeak sound in the front right when I go over a bump.
I have a 2010 Sonata V6 that I bought new. It has a little less than 50K on it. I tried to start it today and it made a terrible noise then died seconds later. I popped the hood and then started it again and the engine was shaking violently in the engine compartment and making a terrible knocking noise. I had driven it 12 hours earlier and it ran fine. I called a tow truck and had it taken to the dealer but if I know my dealer, since it is Sunday they probably wont get to it until Tuesday. Also, this car has had the signature V6 valve cover leak that has been fixed 3 times. I noticed it was leaking again about a month ago and I have just been checking the oil and adding it as it needs it. I dont think the engine ran out of oil because I checked it before the tow truck came and it was between low and full.
View 2 RepliesI've been having a problem which i cant seem to find the fix for. My ABS and ECS dash light keep turning on. Its intermittent and does not stay on. Ive noticed that it usually happens if I travel at highway speeds for more than 15miles. I had the brakes x4 changed 1 year ago and all brake pads show good life. Brake fluid is at a good level with no leaks to be seen. I am wondering if its one of the sensors? How can one check for that? I have a 2006 3.3l GLS with 86k.
View 2 RepliesI recently bought a 2007 Sonata V6, and the brakes pulsate (when applied) at highway speeds, so I am looking to replace the front rotors & pads. I have been told that the OEM rotors/pads aren't great & that as a result many owners have a brake pulsating/vibration issue.
View 9 RepliesI have a lot of wind noise in my 2 front windows when driving highway speeds, no water leaks. I cannot find where it is coming from either, I assume it is either air rushing over the mirrors or thin glass. Sometimes it is worse than others, not sure if cross winds etc. Is that common in 2009 Sonata. My old 2003 Malibu, much quieter but mirrors were slightly more rounded if I remember.
View 12 RepliesMy 2006 Sonata V6 (88k miles) has an occasional power steering loss. It has only been noticed right after slowing down from highway speed. Total loss for a few seconds then comes back. No dash lights or noises, just cant steer - then can. Did all required maint. until 60k then just oil changes by me. Have read other forums about fluid flush, but that was for noise and I don't have any noise. This has happened with and without the Electronic Stability Control turned on. Other than that, runs great. MPG is about 25 or so (wish was 30 or so).
View 9 RepliesI have 2011 Tiguan SE 4motion,that i purchased 5 months ago just got out of warranty
First problem i had with this car was the failed Ignition coil on one cylinder one month ago,suddenly while driving on the high way the car was shaking if goes above 40 MPH and check engine light came on, I continued to drive slowly till i made it home , and changed coil the next day and everything was fine for few weeks , i was planning on changing the rest of the coils and spark plugs.
Recently after leaving work i tried to start the car and it won't start it made weird loud crank noise but no start, check engine light came on , showed multiple cylinder mis fire code and random mis fire code
I changed remaining coils and spark plugs just to see if it will fix the problem ,it wouldn't start. Towed it to my regular mechanic after few failed attempt to start it he checks compression and was non on any cylinder, I researched online and came across common complaints of Timing chain Tensioner Failures and i thought it has to be same problem with my car.
Mechanic removed the timing chain cover to see if chain slipped or tensioner failed and they were fine and everything is in place with no timing fault, I checked the tensioner myself yesterday with him and still working fine. Now we deciding on opening the engine and check for damage Or just Replacing with used engine.
Having situation of engine failure WITHOUT having the timing chain fail due to tensioner failure? The misfires that occurred 1 month earlier could have caused enough damage that went catastrophic a month later? I had oil changed by mechanic with recommended Mobil one oil for VW 4 months ago...
Had upper and lower ball joints replaced a few hundred miles ago and the truck had run just fine. Just replaced the the front bearings, axle seals, left axle shaft (Spicer brand) and right U-joint. Now at highway speeds if I hit just the right bump the front of the truck will start to shake and within a few seconds the shaking is violent, almost have to come to a complete stop for shaking to stop. What is causing this?
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