I've discovered a rusted hole leaking oil from the oil pan on my 2006 Sonata GLS 2.4L 4 cylinder.
Trying to find a replacement oil pan but I'm not having any luck online. The oil pan for the 3.3L is for sale everywhere, but not for the 2.4L.
Googling suggested the OEM part number might be 21510-25051 but I can't confirm that?
Found out my 2007 Hyundai Sonata V6 GLS needs a new brake line put in. The line rusted and all brake fluid leaked out. I am very surprised that after 7 years and only 103,000 km (about 65,000 miles) the car will need a new brake line put in already. All my other cars have been Japanese and have never experienced premature failure and replacement of brake lines.
Granted, I live in Toronto, Ontario, and this year has been a cold start to winter with lots of aggressive salting. It started to get a little bit warmer the last 2 days which probably accelerated the corrosion from the salt.
On my '97 F250 the rear brake line going to the rear right wheel has a rusted hole. It measures 50" total. Instead of bending a new metal line. I see they have a "poly armor" line that can be bent by hand( no tools needed). I see Autozone has them.
View 14 RepliesNoticed Tranny Fluid under the Ex last week and after further inspection, it is definitely the lines rusted, by the end of the week it was leaking pretty good with the motor running. Picked up the lines from Ford and bought a 5 gal pail of MerconV from NAPA. Going to replace the tranny fluid after I replace the lines. 109k on the truck and never serviced the trans. Never had an issue with this truck, shifts nice and tight. Found Mark W's Fluid Changing procedure which looks pretty simple.
View 4 Replies07 Camry LE USA built. The front line that goes down behind the radiator then towards the rear under the engine has started leaking at the bottom of the horseshoe bend. The bottom is rusted and leaking. Is there a temporary fix for this? Part is not available from the local parts stores.
View 2 RepliesI can't see where it's coming from but it's leaking onto my TIP. it's not a lot though.
View 4 RepliesI was driving back home from work and I happen to notice smoke. Oil is coming out of the top of the dipstick hole not the bottom o ring. It seems the crank is building too much pressure . It's a 1990 5sfe so it does not have a pcv valve,ithasa pcv system which is basically a hose from the valve cover to the throttle body.
This does not happen initially when I turn the car on from a cold start. I turn it on leave it at idle for a while and even rev it up and hold it high. It starts to leak after about a 2 mile drive and the car is at running temperature. I removed the hose on the valve cover when the car was at idle and a good amount if air blows out when at idle now when I rev the car up the air blowing out drops some.
1999 F150 has rusted and leaking steel brake lines. I need to replace all of them but do not know if you have to fabricate them or can you buy the complete kit. I am also confused with the flared end. Have not worked with that type of flare. If they need to be purchased where is the best place to buy them ?
View 9 RepliesJust brought my 06 3.3l into the dealer and they said the oil pan is not covered under warranty. It's clearly where my issue is - is it hard to change this oil pan on an automatic?
View 10 RepliesI have a 94 Camry left to me by my father inlaw when he died a year ago. I notice antifreeze coming from a weep hole just above one of the alternator mounting brackets. Whats involved with replacing the water pump and timing belt? Im guessing thats what it is and while I am in there I will replace the timing belt as I dont believe either have been replaced. The car has about 160,000 miles on it. I kept my Windstar going for about 250,000 miles before my daughter wrapped it around a tree so Im sure its something I can handle. The problem is time as we are getting into winter. Is it a major job or something that can be done in a few hours?
View 5 RepliesI recently purchased a 2006 Sonata with 70k miles on it. The dealership said it had one previous owner, and was in great condition. I should've had it checked out before purchasing. Now that I've driven it a few weeks I've noticed the headlights dimming when I press on the break. My brother checked it out and said my grounds were all okay, but there was oil leaking onto my alternator. He said it should just be the valve cover gasket that needs to be replaced.
What is considered a fair price to replace it? I dont know how detailed he looked into it, but it is on the left side of the engine. I've read that's the cheaper one to replace, will they allow me to replace without replacing the right side? Also, Will that solve the headlight dimming issue?
We now have a new problem. Motor is leaking antifreeze out of what i will call a weeping hole in the on the #5 cylinder side of the block. The hole, which is manufactured in the block. Is where the antifreeze is seeping from. The hole is located above the bottom bolt an just below the top bolt for the transmission. the hole is on the block. I think that there might be a freeze out plug on the back of the motor block where the leak is coming from. The block was not leaking before we removed the heads for valve job.
View 3 RepliesI replaced a rear rusted brake line a couple of years ago. It rusted where the line met the bracket. I'd never done this before but bought a flare (flaring?) tool and fixed it.
This week the longer line that runs down the length of the truck started leaking. It looks like the line was once held in place by a small bracket just in front of the rear wheel but it wasn't in that bracket anymore. I guess it rubbed against the metal and water/sand rusted it out.
A local garage said they'd need to drop the fuel tank and estimated that it would be several hours (and hundreds of dollars) to do the job. It looks like I might be able to cut the old one out and then fish the new line up through there and replace it.
Also, what is the diameter of the line? It is a 2004 F350. I can certainly cut it out first and then take a piece of it to the local auto parts place to get the replacement line.
I have a 2010 2.4 with approx 36k miles on it. I started noticing oil spots in the garage so I got under the car and saw that the back of the pan was covered in oil. The oil was on the rtv gasket for the pan, the back of the motor was dry so I'm under the impression that the gasket has failed. I checked the filter, and valve cover, everything is dry, the motor is dry and clean.
My question is, is this covered under the 10yr/100k warranty? I would like to avoid having to pay the $110 diagnostic fee if its not covered, since it looks like a pretty simple job dropping the pan. But if its covered by the warranty, it would be nice not having to do the work my self.
I am the first owner, and I believe the 5yr bumper to bumper warranty has expired.
A year ago (to the day), my car (2006 Hyundai Sonata) died on me while I was driving it. My boyfriend came and gave me a jump. The car got home fine. The next morning, we went out to the car, and the battery had died, so we jumped the car again, and got to the battery place and bought a new battery. I was worried there was another issue with the car- but my boyfriend was all like "You are feeble woman who knows nothing about cars" (kidding, kidding) so I listened to him and drove the car off that afternoon. On my way home, car died again. So, this time, we got the car towed to a dealership to get checked out. Well, turns out the head gasket was leaking and there was oil in the alternator. SOOOO. The dealer replaced the head gasket for free because the car had a warranty on the engine, but we were SOL with the alternator. So, we bought an alternator from a friend, and had another friend install it for us.
Yesterday, I got out of work, and car wouldn't start. When my DF came to jump the car, he and I could clearly see the head gasket is leaking again and there is oil in the alternator. I have a couple questions that I need answered...
1.) What causes a leaky head gasket? My boyfriend said that either the engine block was warped or that the replacement they put in last year was faulty. Are there other ways?
2.) How the beep do you replace the alternator in the 2006 Hyundai? It is in an odd location and we don't have access to the person who did it for us last time, so I need to see if this is a job my boyfriend can do. He does work on his car all the time (an 87 BMW), but he's never done anything on this car besides change oil, etc.
A little bit about this car: We bought the car from a Hyundai dealer in June 2010. It belonged to one of the dealer investors, so it was in great condition. However, we think the car was in a front-end accident. When my boyfriend waxed the car awhile back, it was pretty obvious that the front bumper was replaced as well. The dealer refuses to give us any mechanical records about the car (will only give us verbal summary) ...
I noticed quite a bit of oil on my alternator recently, and it looks like oil is leaking out of the sides of my engine. Does this mean that my valve cover gasket needs replacing and if so what should a mechanic charge for this i.e. how long should the job take?
View 1 RepliesThe steering rack on my 2009 Sonata was previously replaced under warranty but now it start to leak seriously.from the two boots at the ends of the steering rack ends. Is it possible to replaced seals only where it leaks?
View 13 Replies2009 Sonata 2.4L ... About 60 000km ago, the complete steering rack was replaced under warranty. Now I notice the PS fluid going down in the PS reservoir. I checked for any loose fittings, all look OK. But I did notice PS droplets hanging from the steering rack boots. So today I replaced the PSF4 fluid with Amsoil PS fluid. I suspect maybe some seals are leaking. Any good product I can use to maybe stop the leaks?
View 1 RepliesI've looked at [URL] at the three primary hitch receivers for the 2013 RX 350; Curt, Hidden, Draw-tite.
From the side profile picture which etrailer displays for each, the Curt has one hole and the other two have two. Those two appear to be different sizes. The one on the Curt seems to appear smaller than the larger of the other two holes on the other two hitch receivers.
I called etrailer and the person I spoke with could not tell me why they were different, they just read the specs I see on the page, tongue weight, load, blah, blah.
With my hitch, I will need to haul a Yakima trailer, about 450 Ibs total, it is a very lightweight trailer, or a 2" Yakima bike rack. Maybe some day, I'll need to haul something of substance, but I have no plans.
I'm also wondering if a hitch which is recessed back, will it be difficult to work the pin in and out?
Just bought a 2006 f150, the tailgate hinge seems to be rusted to the cup(drivers side). Any tips for repairing/ getting it freed up?
View 5 RepliesI broke one of the wheel/hub studs on my 2006 Ford Focus, when I tried to take the wheel off. So, this car lived through 7 winters in Boston metropolitan area, and it has about 90,000 miles on it.
I bought the car used last summer, so I don't know what the previous owner did, but I have always torqued my wheels since I bought it. But one of them broke off anyway, when I tried to take the wheel off. I took off the brake caliper and the disc to see the condition of the broken stud. The hub and the stud seemed to have rusted together. I recently moved from California via Oregon, so I am not used to seeing a lot of rust on anything. So, I can't tell whether that is a lot of rust or just normal run-of-the-mill rust I shouldn't have to worry too much about.
I checked online and found that if a bolt/stud is rusted, and if I cannot get it loose by banging it with a hammer, I should torch it and let it cool before trying to loosen it again.
I would like to hear some anecdotes about loosening wheel studs. I went to Harbor Freight today to get a hammer. One guy told me I should get the 8 pounder with a long handle (looked to be 3 feet or longer), so it will be easier to aim and provide steady force. He said it would be like putting a golf ball. I was also looking to get a torch, and he said that I need to heat it until it glowed, so small propane bottle torch would not be enough. But he said for a relatively newer car like mine, a few taps with an 8-pound sledge hammer should be enough.
I am also concerned that I might end up breaking more stuff and have to replace the entire hub, which would be a costly proposition. How much would it cost if I took it to a mechanic?
Also, seeing that some of the other nuts didn't go in smoothly, would it do any good to replace all the lug nuts?