Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Fill Up With Engine Running
Aug 15, 2013
I understand that filling up with gas when the car is running is not recommended. I did it once without realizing that it could cause issues. Now I am trying to determine if that action has anything to do with the CEL being on. The codes are P0442 and P0456. The codes have been cleared several times but the light pops back on after a while, anyway from one day to a week later.
Smoke test did not reveal any issues. My question is this, can filling up with the engine running cause any physical problems with any of the EVAP components? What would be the most likely problem? I plan on buying a new gas cap, since it is cheap. I do not wish to spend a lot fixing this problem.
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I have an issue that keeps recurring intermittently that I cannot seem to figure out. The car is a 2006 Sonata with a 4-cylinder and about 130k miles. It started about 6 months ago when the check engine light came on 25 miles or so after a fill up. The code shown was P2097 (Post catalyst system too rich.) I reset the light by disconnecting the battery. I tried adding some gas dryer and premium fuel and that seemed to work, but the light would intermittently come on. I also replaced the spark plugs (put dielectric grease on the boots) and had the exhaust system checked for leaks. I also put in fuel injector cleaner several times and cleaned the MAF sensor. In April, the light was coming on quite often, so I replaced the post catalyst oxygen sensor and reset the light.
The light stayed off for 600 miles or so and then came back on. This time the code is P0420 (catalytic converter efficiency). An exhaust system shop said that there does not appear to be anything wrong with the exhaust system including the catalytic converter itself. The car does have a slight miss at idle, but performs fine other than that. Also, if the car is not driven for a few days, there is some valve train noised when the engine is first started which lasts about 5 seconds.
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I have a 2006 Hyundai Sonata with a 2.4 liter 4-cylinder engine. After filling the gas tank, the car idles roughly, but accelerates and performs fine at higher speeds. The rough idle lasts about 5-10 miles and then goes away.
Six days ago, I changed the spark plugs and air filter. Four days ago, I filled up with gas (and had the same issue with the rough idle). This morning, I started the car and idled it for 2 minutes while I scraped ice off the windows. I drove the car about 5 minutes and the check engine light came on. I took it to Autozone and the code given was P2187, System too lean at idle bank #1. "
Autozone suggested that it could be an air intake fault (MAF sensor), fuel pressure, or vacuum leak. They also said they have a MAF sensor cleaner to try. I am not sure if the rough idle after fill-up and check engine are related. Also, I don't know if the spark plugs or air filter could be related to the check engine. I was planning on making some easier checks first such as hoses near where I worked last weekend, especially near the air filter. Cleaning the MAF sensor is easy too. I was also going to check for vacuum leaks (incl. intake manifold) and recheck the spark plugs.
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I'm facing a bit of a problem on my girlfriends dads 2009 Sonata (Non-Premium sound system). I just installed a Pioneer aftermarket head unit and am getting no sound when the car is started or when its in ACC mode. However, when the ignition is just turned to the "ON" position (first click) the head unit works flawlessly and all 4 speakers output sound. As soon as I turn it to ACC or start the car, there is no sound at all but the head unit still powers up and shows the track playing. I'm really stumped here guys. I've done literally countless head unit installations and I just can't figure this one out, nor have I ever seen this before. I thought the problem might have been a factory amp, but the head unit does not say JBL or Infinity so that leads me to believe it doesn't have a factory amp. Maybe I'm not the pro I though I was lol.
At any rate, just in-case it matters, there is a line out converter attached to the system in order to add a sub/amp to the stock head unit that I installed a few years prior to attempting the aftermarket head unit installation. I don't think that would matter but I may be wrong. I was planning to remove it and route the RCA's to the aftermarket head unit once everything was up and running.
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So my sonata 2.4L has been freaking me out lately. Once it has been driven and warmed up good, it starts to idle rough at rest at lights and in traffic. Now the crazy thing is it idles even more rough if I switch it into neutral during those stops. One more thing is it idles the worst after I fill up with gas and get stopped at lights.
So what I have done:
Cleaned the MAF sensor with MAF spray
Changed spark plugs (I4 so it comes with coils not plugs)
Put Lucas Gas treatment in
So I'm getting no check engine light. So all I can think of is fuel filter. Or some other sensor. I mean I know it could be a coil so that would be the next thing I check. What this could be?
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My 2.4L engine is making a clanking noise while running. When I checked the oil level today, it was low by about 1.5 quarts. There's no check engine light.
Car has 74K miles now. I purchased the car two years ago with 35K miles. I have always performed regular maintenance myself. The car had its oil control valve replaced at 55K miles.
VIDEO : 2.4L Clanking Noise
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I am having an issue with by club wagon. This vehicle has dual tanks. The front tank doesn't work (and never has since I purchased it a couple of years ago....bad fuel pump I am guessing}.
A couple of months ago the fuel pump went out on the rear tank and I had it replaced. I now have a peculiar problem. Fuel is coming out of the front tank fill spout when the engine is running. There seems to be a tremendous amount of pressure building up in the front tank...even though I am not using it.
I would seem as though fuel is being pumped out of the rear tank and into the front tank to a certain pressure point, and then on to the engine. One solution would seem to be to remove the front tank completely from the system, but I don't know how to do that, or if it should be done. After driving and coming to a stop, fuel is pouring out through the gas cap on the front tank. I. Don't need to use the front tank as I am just using this as a work truck.
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I'm working on 07sonata 2.4. The cooling fan is always on when key is on. I used to be a hyundai tech and remembered seeing something about the engine room fuse box and I have access to wiring diagrams. So in essence you go to connector jc01 pin 2 pink and connector je01 pin 25 pink. Cut the wires and connect them together bypassing the fusebox all together. But that didn't work this time. One thing I discovered is that if I touch my power probe to the heatsink of the fan control module I have battery voltage available. I first discovered this because I was removing said module and my 10mm touched it when it slipped a touch.
Is this 'hot' heatsink evidence of a shorted module? No codes in system. Ect tests good when hot and cold. A/c is not commanded on. Being that I used to be a tech for Hyundai I also know the engine fuse box can be touchy as well...
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I often make 25-30 quick drop off stops on my daily travels and need How to lock the doors with the car running as that many stops and starts will wear out my starter and be really hard on the car.
I know it is possible for the doors to lock while the engine is running as my car came with an aftermarket (pro start) remote starter. It will actually lock the door when it starts the engine, which is inherently useless as my car is always locked when I start it (from the the house) before I get dressed to go outside in cold weatheras well as I am not worried about someone driving away in it without the key to start.
In my old car (mazda) I could just keep the FOB in my pocket and lock the doors either manually or by the FOB when I got out. My Sonata wont even lock by the the FOB which is really frustrating because obviously in that case I am leaving the car running and want to lock the doors, IE: to warm up the car. I can understand why the door locks are disabled with the key in to prevent lockouts but if you need to warm up your car or Like me need to lock it while I am gone for less than a min.
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I recently purchased a used 2012 camry se. 4cylinder. Seems that after every fill up the car runs strangely on the highway when between 70 and 80 mph. After driving about 15 miles it doesn't seem to do it any longer. Is this an issue with the evap system possibly or maybe with the fuel delivery system ?? The first time I filled up the car shut down completely. I later found that this was probably caused by overfilling when getting gas. Since then I am sure not to top off yet I am still getting the problem with the engine being sluggish at 70-80 mph.
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Is there any chance to remove the Day Time Running lights, connect and LED strip and still use the parking brake functionality and have it automatically switch to the low lights (HID) and still use the LED strip?
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When I'm driving and get above 50-60 I will get the Check Engine Light. Check the codes It shows 6 ---300, 303, 306, 300, 303, 306. When I slow the car down it is running rough, almost like it has a miss.
I reset the computer while this is going on and the engine smooths out and it runs correctly until I keep my pedal down and then it kicks the exact same errors.
Here's strange part number one: Once I get down to about a gallon or two of gas in the car everything seems to run fine. I have plenty of power, no codes and the car runs fantastic!
Strange part number 2: Very occasionally When I get in the car in the morning to go to work, the car is a bit difficult to start. When it finally kicks over, it is immediately running rough. resetting the computer with the engine running does not seem to stop the rough running. If I turn off the engine and let the car set for a bit it will start and run fine, with the exception of the first problem mentioned in this thread. There is no code while it is running rough, but when the Light kicks on as per the first issue mentioned, I have an additional code -- 335. This car has been excellent up until the last few months when this issue developed.
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I have a 2009 4cyl GLS with a manual trans (about 18K miles). For the past few months, I have been noticing a faint gasoline odor both in my car and around my car after it has been running for awhile. And yes I have checked and it is not on my shoes or floor mats. The car does not smell until I get off the interstate etc... At first I thought it was another car around me that is giving off the odor but after many trips without cars near me, I can smell it and my passengers notice it too. It does not seem to happen when it is full, usually only around a half tank or less. I checked all around and under the car for any signs of leaks and found none, just wafts of gasoline odor. My MPGs is not off so I must not be leaking too much but the odor is getting worse.
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Here is a video of my sonata exhaust running rich and "popping" when i ease off the gas when in P/N (haven't driven it enough to recreate it on the street in gear). I also included a teaser pic of my plasti dip project which is almost done and ready for me to enter the Ride Of The Year.
3.3 V6 Hyundai Sonata Rich Exhaust Popping Sound - YouTube : [URL] ....
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Is it just me or does the AC blow colder air when I fill up the gas tank... without fail, after every fill up I notice colder air coming out the vents than previously before I fueled up. what's going on???
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My wife cracked in half the gas fill door on our 2012 SE. I ordered a new one online and painted it to match our car. I cannot figure out how to get the old one out and install the new one. I removed the 4 screws around the gas filler tube but how do I access the back to get out the old hinge?
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After pumping for a few seconds the pump stops because it thinks the tank is full. I have been searching for other 2011 Sonata owners with this problem but can't find any. I see it on older cars, something about charcoal pellets, but not on new cars. Could this be charcoal pellets on this car? The car is still new, why would this happen?
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I have a 2015 Somata ECO, while backing out of the drive the mailman came so I stopped (car running) closed the door went got the mail returned to the car and the doors automatically locked. This is not the first time this has happened, lucky I was at home and went inside to get the other key. What did I do wrong or how can i prevent this from happening again?
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I have a 2008 Hyundai Sonata Limited w/3.3 engine with 41414 miles. I was driving along and the car lost power but the engine kept running at idle. Check engine light came on so I took it to a shop.They said the throttle control showed up bad. The whole throttle control system has to be replaced. This would cost @$450.00 Does this seem right that a car with only 41 thousand miles would need a major part like this replaced? The bumper to bumper warranty ran out in Jan 2013.
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2006 sonata gl with 4-cyl engine. Car runs/feels fine. Installed HID kit a while ago (with harness) and no problem. Driving home late afternoon (with AC on hi) stopped on red light. Radio was on but NO HID lights on - then momentarily car stalls. Starts back up right a way and NO check engine light. Tried AC- works fine, turn the lights on (HID 35w slim balast), radio on - everything is fine.
My "suspect" is old battery (original!) and I think that for a short moment charging system (alternator) could not keep up/charge battery while car was idling with AC and radio on (hi load).
How long is original battery good for (5-6-...yrs)? Looked earlier at Everstart batteries (or was it Eveready brand?) made by Johnson. I could only find a few batteries but they were sitting on the shelf since last summer (sticker said made 07/2010 !). Are they any good?
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I have a 2006 Toyota Prius, it has 283000 miles and still running strong on original battery and engine.
Lately, I noticed that when I fill the gas tank the check engine light comes on after 2 days of driving. After I get under half a tank, the check engine light will turn off. the check engine light will return after 2 days of filling up.
Other than that, there is nothing wrong with the car. And I get 55 mpg highway and 45 city.
What is the cause of this and you think this could be a serious problem?
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