Here is a video of my sonata exhaust running rich and "popping" when i ease off the gas when in P/N (haven't driven it enough to recreate it on the street in gear). I also included a teaser pic of my plasti dip project which is almost done and ready for me to enter the Ride Of The Year.
3.3 V6 Hyundai Sonata Rich Exhaust Popping Sound - YouTube : [URL] ....
1994 reg cab 4.ol 13ok.. my wife just got it, been doing some small things like replaced dome light, replaced cargo/third brake light, truck starts and seems to run ok. but i get a headache in it which i believe is carbon monoxide, has a leak or something? i text previous owner, he said he replaced 02 sensors, but didnt say if they were bosch or a good brand.. also trucks has a oil pressure and coolant temp gauge fitted on by the gear shift as the dash gauges for those functions are out. Does this mean the CTS may not be working and affecting fuel/air I do not know these trucks i only just found out what this strange silver looking thing was it is the IAC, I Believe, then there is this black plastic vacuum type cylinder by the passenger side firewall, what is that? and right against the drivers side fire wall is a small reservoir type thingy, is this something to do with ABS? i do have an ABS light on, was hoping it was the bulb out on the third brake light or something quirky like that no such luck its still on after starting engine. but i am concerned about this running rich/strong smell as we really cant take it far as is it, its dangerous, may have to get a smoke test? Just got the truck, trying to get caught up..
View 8 RepliesWhen I ease off the gas in D i hear a clunking noise (not too loud) from the drivers side (and even feel a it a bit in the pedal) over the slightest road imperfections in the road. it is not as loud as bad strut mount noises i have heard on other cars. sounds somewhat like what slightly loose lug nuts sound like except its intermittent. Could it be the ball joints?
View 10 RepliesI've seen a couple of threads on this and it all seems to easy with little explanation. Any issues with breaking the tabs or mirrors themselves? Is there any trick to popping out the side mirrors with ease? I'm going to install blue heated blind spot mirrors tonight and wanted to hear a little feedback.
View 14 RepliesHave a 2000 mercury mountaineer that is crazy rich on idle, just dumping gas in the exhaust, fuel pressure is good, burning a ton of gas. Live data is as follows:
Fuel system 1 CL fault(if I shut it off and restart it will go to OL fault)
Fuel system 2-na
calc load 33.3
ect 174
stft b1 -23.4
ltft b1 0.0
stft b2 42.2
ltft b2 0.0
engine rpm 856
veh speed 0
spark advance 18.5
IAT(F) 66
MAF 1.7
TPS 18.8
02SLOC B1S12_B2S12
02S B1 S1(V) 0.920
STFT S1 -23.4
02S B1 S2 0.000
STFT B1 S2 99.202S B2 S1 0.765
STFT B2 S1 42.2
02S B2 S2 0.910
STFT B2 S2 99.2OBD SUP OBD2
How much boost can you push on the stock turbo without it running too rich or lean?
View 3 RepliesThe code p0304 pop up last week, I have 50800 miles on my car, I unplug the spark plug and the ignition coil from the cylinder 4 and when i start the car I can there is a spark so the wire the spark plug and the ignition coil is good... I changed the fuel injecter with the one from cylinder 3 I cleared the code and it came back?
View 4 RepliesMy 2006 sonata 85,XXXX miles on the car and after putting the new rims on the car. I am feeling a bit of popping from my power steering at low speeds when turning. The Power steering has been squeaking for quite some time. I have never changed out the power steering fluid and was wondering if this could be the cause!
View 7 Replies2002 f150 4.6l v8... Truck is misfiring and the exhaust is smelling very rich, I have new coils and plugs, it also idles rough and stalls if i let it idle for more than a couple minutes. Could it be something with fuel delivery system?
View 1 RepliesJust replaced the front struts last week and the upper control arms this morning. After putting everything back together I drove her around the block and noticed a horrible popping and squeaking like something was loose. I quickly limped her home and double checked that everything went back on properly and was tight. Car is the V6 with eibach's and about 103,000 miles I have drain and filled the tranny every 30-40k.
What this sound might be? It goes away once I am above about 10-15 mph and sounds like it is coming from the center underside of the car. I will also try to get a video of the sound while I am driving.
Car creaking - YouTube
So today, when I rolled down my passenger window (2007 Sonata GLS) to talk to someone, I heard a popping sound and the window refused to roll back up. I got the car home and started tearing into the door panel (okay, not literally). By viewing different threads here, I have the door panel off, outside handle is off, all screws loosened (including the 3 for the door latch) and am trying to get the inner sheet metal panel off.
From everything I've read, you need to roll the window up the whole way in order to get the inner panel off; however I cannot get the window up the whole way! By lifting up on it, I have it about 2/3 raised, but it won't budge any more. I have been able to see that the window cable is broken (which explains why the window won't raise), but am at a loss on how to proceed. I'm leery of trying to force the window up any more. I'm tempted to try to pry the inner panel back enough to get the two bolts holding the window loose, but don't want to force *that* either.
So, how to get the window all the way up? And/or the inner door panel off?
My 2001 Toyota Celica GT was put through a smog test and it was running rich on the idle only. It has been tagged a gross polluter and so i finally got a code reader to try to diagnose why. When i plugged in the code reader it kept stating no codes. It does not have a check engine light on and has not had a tune up for a while now. I am in real need of my car now more than ever.
View 2 RepliesWhen firing up the engine cold it runs really rough, smells very rich all the time, even warmed up. No codes set, fuel trims are within 5-10%. I've replaced the front O2 sensor, swapped crank & cam sensors, Map sensor (have lots of spare parts) & I'm sure there was more things I've changed but can't remember. I have a snap on scanner and everything is within parameters.
I have not checked the EGR valve or solenoids yet. It's a 2006 Santa Fe 2.4l 5 speed, new timing belt & balance belt replaced when I dropped this engine in. Is there a common problem with these that I could begin looking for?
We have a 2008 NF, and have been experiencing popping noises from the drivers side near the door. Especially when it's been colder out, but in general.
The tie-rod ends, ball joints, and the struts have been replaced. The question is: What we is it likely to be?
The car has ~100k on it, so it was not really to surprising that those items would need to be replaced.
However, since I didn't have time to do it, we had someone else do the eval and work.
Are there any typical issues that stand out with the NF Sonata that would cause this based on what I've told you all?
It's a great car, but this is driving us nuts.
I'm experiencing a really annoying issue with my 2007 3.3L sonata. Whenever I am making a right turn (with the breaks applied), I hear a knocking or "popping" sound from the driver's side front end. It's not a single "pop", but multiple "pop"..."pop"..."pop". The noise does not occur when making a right turn without the breaks applied, not does it happen when making left turns. Also, during a right turn, if I release the breaks, the sound will immediately stop. The car only has 64k KM (about 40k miles).
View 4 RepliesI've been hearing a popping noise occasional when reversing into a parking spot for about a year no, its like 3-8 pops each time. I looked at the CV joints and the rubber hosing is intact. I am pretty sure this particular noise now is not ball joints squeaking.
How long can I let this slide without replacing. Is the CV joint sold as one whole piece?
BTW I'm checking out the 2013 Sante-Fe....
Alright I have this popping sound that sounds like its coming from the front left. It only happens sometimes and at speeds 0 to 20mph ....
View 29 RepliesMy engine is running rich, flooding? My truck is a 1986 F-150 302 EFI. The engine idles rough, black smoke and soot comes out the exhaust pipes, and black soot on spark plugs. Symptoms seem to disappear if I throttle the engine and hold it, but as soon as I release the throttle the symptoms reappear and in most case causes the engine to die. These symptoms have just started a week ago. What the problem is.
Fuel injectors are cleaned and rebuilt. New plugs and wires. All new fuel pumps and filters. New air filters. New fuel pressure regulator. New dual function reservoir. New 3-piece timing set. New O2 sensor. New EGR Valve and sensor. New idle air control valve. New distributor, cap, and rotor. New ignition coil. New high volume oil pump. New alternator. New pcv valve. New knock sensor and air charge temp. sensor.
I just had my check engine light come on and checked the codes and they were P1136 running rich at idle and P1250 low fuel level. My fuel level is 3/4 full and I just installed a K&N panel filter in the airbox. While I was installing the filter I also cleaned the mass airfow sensor and then cleared the codes. The codes have come back after 2 days.
View 4 RepliesI'm having this weird problem with my car, 90% of the time it will start to run rich, until it reaches normal temp, to the point that I can smell it coming out from the exhaust. LTFT is at around -15% and it seems to go down after cruising for some time but will go back to negative at idle. My first suspect was the FPR so I checked it and found no gas smell on the vacuum hose, then I decided to run the engine with the vacuum hose disconnected and see if any fuel would come out, 5 minutes later and it was still dry.
There is a chance that the MAF sensor is bad, I'm 90% sure it is, because it will sometimes read 2.9-3.1 gps at idle and according to the rule of thumb of 1gps per liter of displacement, it shouldn't go that low but I might be wrong about it; I disconnected the MAF and the smell was still there, today while driving it was reading 5.45gps (A/C was on) and the smell was still present; car also feels sluggish from time to time only at normal operating temperature (which I assume is because of it running rich).
There is also a vibration felt through the steering wheel only while idling in gear at all temps. Today when I got home and after I turned off the engine I heard a noise like water was running. It was coming from the car so I tried to find where the noise was coming from and it's from the fuel tank. I removed the fuel cap and lots of air came out (or sucked in?). I reinstalled the cap and pressure started to build up almost immediately! I have a video, which I'm sharing, so you can see what I'm talking about; I was even able to hear the fuel tank expanding because of the pressure inside, not sure if you can hear it towards the end of the video (when I put the phone under the car). [URL] .....
It also happened today that I was cruising and the engine hit the rev limiter after I stepped on the gas (WOT) to overtake another car. I immediately removed the foot from the pedal and gave it less gas and it acted normal, no slipping from the transmission at any other time. There is one more thing that I'm not sure about it. Every morning, the engine will sputter for 1 or 2 seconds after starting it but it will be fine for the rest of the day. I once tried disconnecting different sensors from the engine and the only one that seemed to make a difference (it didn't sputter) was the TPS.
Things done so far:
- I replaced the EVAP purge solenoid (P0441 was present) back in february.
- Rubber pieces at charcoal canister also replaced, old ones were rotted to the point my hands would look black just by rubbing against the hoses.
- Upper intake manifold was also replaced by me in november last year.
- New NGK spark plugs and OEM spark plug wires last december.
- Cleaned the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner, no dice. Used brake clean, no change. It's a reman Cardone from autozone, which tells us it's 90% sure it's broken.
- New Duralast MAP sensor back in 2010 because a mechanic broke the original.
- 10qts transmission fluid and filter replacement 2 weeks ago.
- Fuel pump was also replaced back in 2009 maybe, can't remember the exact year. The old one would start making some kind of a hissing noise after prolonged driving.
NO DTC'S PRESENT. I once checked Mode $06 data with a mid-level scanner I have (AutoXray EZ-scan 6000) and saw a test had failed, I think it said something about the MAF and EGR. IHaven't connected my fuel pressure gauge tester. Since I can smell it running rich, I didn't think it would be necessary. I'm thinking that there could be a problem with the EVAP system that's causing the excessive pressure in the tank but I'm not sure what that could be. Is there any chance that the pressure is also causing the rich mixture?
I have a 2000 F150 4WD 5.4 running Extremely rich to bank one. The O2 sensors for bank 1 are reading lean(0-50 mV) Bank two is completely unaffected. New plugs in Bank one, 3 new coils in bank one, all pvc lines checked with good vacuum. Previous codes : P0171, P0301-3. The Truck will barely move. Would a small leak up stream of the O2 sensors cause this?
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