I recently got a problem with my 2006 LX V6 with 65k mils on it. The car had a few times a rough Idle so I hooked up my OBDII scammer ant got two failure codes:
P0300 miss fire
P0276 problem with Injector #6
Which one is the cylinder #6. I took of the engine cover and checked the connectors to the valves in the front row. I assume cylinder number 6 is in the back row and hard to get access.
I have a 2006 E350 van, just recently had passenger side injectors replaced along with dummy plugs and stand pipes. I was at the car was spraying it off and noticed it started running rough, just figured maybe some water made its way into the engine bay and something got wet as it was running great. Well its stayed that way and i am getting codes p0264 and p0276. Digging around on the net seems like its ficm or wiring, ficm is 48 volts and 13.5 volts, connectors are on tight and i dont see any wire chaffing kinda stumped. hoping its not 2 bad injectors at once.
View 2 RepliesMy girlfriends 2007 accent as thrown codes p0300 and p0302.
After reading everything I could find, I had coil pack on my list of possible problem items.
The car sat in the driveway yesterday and when she went to start it today, she couldn't get it to.
I got it to start when I got home by giving it some gas while turning the key, but I don't want to drive it anywhere.
The hard start is leading me to believe it's the coil pack.
I was going to start with changing the pcv, spark plugs, and run fuel injector cleaner through it because those are the cheap possibilities...but now may add in a new coil pack.
I am trying to get a 2009 Sonata NF with a 3.3L V6 to run correctly and i have tried everything that i can find and still get the problem. The car runs very rich with a strong gas smell. The engine runs rough but doesn't stall. The car has has period where it runs fine and then the issue returns but is in more frequent and steady now. The car will run for the first 5 minutes great if it is cold and it also runs good at full throttle and the check engine light went off during hard acceleration which seems consistent with getting too much fuel. I bought a BlueDriver to read the codes and I love the data it provides but I am learning all the features.
For a little history the car has 95,250 miles. At 81157 miles the check engine light came on and an independent shop replaced the downstream O2 sensor and the light has been off for 2 years until coming back on recently. The code showing was a P0300. The shop replaced spark plugs and the manifold gasket with and oil change for $775. The check engine light stayed off for about a month and 550 miles. The car was taken back to the shop and they replaced the rear O2 sensor for $429 . The check engine light was off for a couple of days and then returned with the P0300. It might go a couple of days without a problem and then it would return.
This is when I got the car and started reading all the forums i could for possible causes. I saw the Tech Bulletin on the Variable Valve Timing Oil Control Solenoids so i replaced both valves. The check engine light returned with a P0303 for cylinder 3 misfire so i figured it was a coil so i replaced all the coils. The P0300 code returned. I check fuel pressure after seeing a post about fuel pressure regulators causing the problem but the pressure was correct. I changed the Mass Flow Sensor figuring it was getting too much gas but no improvement. I bought the BlueDriver so I could see more than just the codes. The O2 sensor looked erratic so i changed the front upper O2 sensor.
I found the Tech Bulletin about the O2 sensors fuel trim readings and realized there was an upper sensor on the back manifold and it was reading -18% so i changed it and now I don't know which way to go. I currently have the P0303 code confirmed and P0300 pending. With the live data the items that looked strange at idle were O2 Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 2 steady at 99.2% and Calculated Engine Load a 21.6%. The freeze frame data from when the light came on has all the short fuel trim at 0.0% and long term at -0.8% for both banks. Calculated Engine Load was 45.9% even though I was trying to drive slowly at 29 mph. Mass Air was 21.71 g/s, I had been running 3 minutes from a slightly warm start, Absolute engine load was 44.3%. Anything else to check or data I should look at?
A few days ago my "Check VSC" warning came on along with the check engine and traction lights being on. I left my car in a parking garage for a week when I was on vacation and the lights came on once I started the car after getting back from my trip.
I have had the "Check VSC" warning before and I fixed it by replacing my gas cap. My gas cap seems fine this time around so I got my codes scanned and the only one that came up was P0300. Having this issue with the 2007 Lexus GS 350? I still feel like it's my gas cap because I bought a cheap replacement last time around.
I know it is a random cylinder misfire code however I started my car in the morning and it was fine I moved it and put it back in my driveway. I started it up later and waited for it to heat up i came back outside 10 min later and my check engine light was flashing and my car was shaking like crazy you could tell the engine was misfiring like crazy. I had under a quarter of a tank but not empty yet. I shut it off and turned it back on and it was still doing it. I drove the mile to the gas station the way it was.
Under partial throttle it was revving to 4500 and over 5, had to let of throttle to make the car shift up a gear. I filled up and started the car again performed fine after that however the check engine light was solid now and still on. I went to my local mechanic and he read that code P0300. I changed my spark plugs that day and they were crap the original spark plugs I have 65,xxx on my car now. Car is smooth now. I cleared check engine when i saw him first and it did not come back on all day even before i changed the spark plugs later that night. Why my light was flashing and why my car was acting like that till i filled up?
This last May I gave myself a graduation present and got a 2013 Sonata SE. I bought it through my Dad's friend's dealership at a pretty good deal and loved the car for the first few months, then things went South pretty quickly.
I've had more CEL issues with this car than I ever did with my piece of garbage 2000 Grand Cherokee.
The first time the light came on, I brought it to AutoZone who said I needed a new Cannister Close Valve. I then took it to my local Hyundai Dealership (Not my dad's friend's, I recently moved up to Ohio and that dealership was in Alabama) who verified that it was indeed the cannister close valve. They said I didn't need to get it fixed because it actually had nothing to do with the engine, but they gave me the part number should I want to buy it and switch it myself to save a few bucks. I bought the part from them and drove down to visit my family in the summer with the CEL on (who are in Memphis) to have my family's mechanic switch out the part. On my way down I stopped to get gas and, unfortunately for me, the gas hose kept clicking off like the tank was full after a quarter of a gallon, which obviously wasn't right. I brought it to my Memphis Mechanic and had them switch out the part, which they also said would resolve my fueling issue. They said everything was good, but on my short drive home (less than 10 miles from the mechanic) the light came back on. I turned around and my mechanic said he'd look at it. They then told me that I needed to replace a sensor in the EVAP system and that should solve the issue. For the rest of my time in Memphis, and on the drive back up to Ohio, I had no CEL, but I still had the fueling issue, but nowhere near as bad as it used to be. Once I was back in Cincinnati, however, sure enough, that stupid orangish-yellow light appeared back on my dashboard. I took it back to the Hyundai dealership who then wanted to charge me $500 to switch out the charcoal cannister which they were saying was the problem. To my great aggravation, they were unable to tell me that would solve my issue, but that it "should" fix it.
Well, yesterday the CEL popped right back on giving the same codes it's always been giving: P0442 and P0456.
I have 5 different codes being displayed..
P0107 (map sensor)
P0405 (EGR valve),
P0452 (fuel tank pressure sensor low voltage)
P0453 (fuel tank pressure sensor high voltage)
P0641 (5 volt reference voltage)
My gas gauge is malfunctioning. I just had my transmission replaced about 3 weeks ago and a week later, the gas gauge began to just fly all over the place. Full to empty, 1/2 tank to empty, etc.
My 2011 Accent's engine light came on recently. The mechanic said it was a cylinder 3 misfire and recommend changing the spark plug and coil pack for that cylinder. We did that over the weekend. Now the light is back on and has read 5 codes in the past 12 hours (4 at one time). They are P0303, P0304, P0003, P0403, and P0100. I have looked the codes up and can't discern if any could be caused by one main issue. About a month ago it read a code for the oxy sensor, but it went away and never came back.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2010 model Hyundai Accent showing error codes P0301, P0302. It has a 1.6L engine. I know little about cars, what is going on and how to fix it.
View 7 RepliesI got the transmission p lock mechanism error. following the advice of the multiple threads, I removed and replaced the old battery after testing it. I drove about 40 miles and the triangle came back with the vsc and yellow exclamation highlighted too. The cruise control quit working but I was able to get it to the dealership and get a reading. There were two codes: p3102-581 and c2301 -40 and 50. the dealer wants to keep it all day to "dig into it". This is on a 2006 prius.
View 19 RepliesYesterday I got the "red triangle" and check engine light along with these 3 codes:
P0A80 - replace hybrid battery pack
P3019 - battery block 9 becomes weak
P3000 - battery control system
In April of this year I have the entire battery replaced, in September I got the triangle again and one cell was replaced under warranty. My warranty is good through April 2016, however I'm afraid that this new code P3000 is going to be something not included in my warranty.
What could potentially be wrong? This is a 2006 Prius with approximately 208,000 miles. I'm not sure this is worth it anymore especially if I have to keep putting in more money.
I'm rebuilding the traction battery on my 2006 Gen II Prius. When completed, I'd like to erase any "error codes" that should be erased (I don't even know where these might be), and turn off the red triangle of death, the VSC light, the (!) idiot light, the engine check light and the maintenance required light.
View 6 RepliesGeneral misfire when the engine light comes on. This error has been occurring almost daily, sometimes it pins it down to cylinder 3. My wife's nephew who is a mechanic says it could be the sensor, but I have only been getting around 30 mpg though the car seems to run alright. I did go ahead and get the plugs replaced, as I was told it could be a bad plug but the error light still comes on as before and the mileage appears no better. What could this be? I am retired on fixed income and dread the very idea of an expensive diagnostic & repair session with a dealer service. Their solution for about everything wrong has been to replace the gas tank (three times already in the life of the car). Last time that did not fix what was going on with the car..
View 10 RepliesSo i got two codes.... P0300 and P0305. I am thinking its the coilpacks because i changed the spark plugs a few months ago. Cleared it last week and came back today. What else could it be? And is it ok to just change one coil pack or do i have to do all of them? The recall was done in 2007.
View 3 Replies2006 Kia Rio LX with 78K miles,
I recently performed several repairs in the car including replacement of the timing belt, all other drive belts (power steering, air conditioning, alternator).
Recently, the car has developed a new problem where it intermittently has been difficult to start, but only after filling up the gas tank. The engine cranks over okay but it seems like it might have vapor lock. It seems to occur every time we fill it up. Rarely, the car has appeared to run rough for a few seconds, the electronic control module seems to make an adjustment and then it runs better. The gas mileage has decreased from typical 28-32 miles a gallon down to 23-25 miles per gallon, despite getting new tires for the car.
Additionally, the check engine light has come on intermittently…once reset it stays off for up to two weeks then will come back intermittently with the following codes:
P0456 which indicates a problem with the fuel evaporation system, which may be related to the gas cap (sometimes when this comes on, the gas cap appears to be loose, but other times it appears to be tight).
P0300 which indicates in engine misfireP0301 which indicates in engine misfire in cylinder #1P0302 which indicates in engine misfire in cylinder #2The first time that I received this warning, I replaced the 4 spark plugs and the check engine light did not come back on for a couple weeks.
I have also previously received a code for faulty oxygen sensor temperature regulation for the forward most oxygen sensor. From what I have read, this may be related to oxygen sensors were related to an exhaust or intake leak. I have attempted to carefully inspect the intake and exhaust systems and I don't find evidence of leak. (From what I have read, a lean fuel condition which may be due to a vacuum leak in the intake manifold or unmetered air getting past the airflow sensor, or an EGR valve that is stuck open are possible causes.
I have visually inspected the 4 coils/plug wire units and they all appear to be intact and since the engine does not run rough (it idles smoothly, seems to have normal power etc.), I believe that they're all functioning.Any thoughts about what should be my next step to diagnose and to fix this problem?Replace gas cap?Replace oxygen sensors?EGR valve?Could this be related to the timing belt replacement (CEL did come on prior to the repair but gas mileage and problem starting after fill-up has started after the change)? Carbon canister or solenoid valve for evap emissions needs replacement?(I have never been in the habit of "topping off the tank").
Have a 2006 ford escape, at idle the engine will run around 1000 rpm's and then regularly dip down 500 rpm's. Through the intake i can here a distinct "thwap" when the RPM's dip.
Only codes are
P0113 and P2196
Problems accelerating sometimes, Took it too a shop they said bad exhaust valve on the backside of the engine either 1-2-3. They said needed engine work, but said they didn't know where the bad valve was so i don't even know how the made the determination. Vac gauge at idle also indicates bad valve.
However, when i give it even the smallest amount of gas possible the engine smooths out and vac gauge reads totally normal and steady.
Mystery issue with my 2001 Accent GSI (5-speed manual, 1.6 L). I'm getting a P0300 error code and the Check Engine light (the light is like an old friend, I miss it when it's not on). This happened four months ago and I replaced the ignition coil - seemed to fix things - but now the light and the error is back with a vengeance. Car stumbles and runs rough. Changed the plugs and plug wires, but no difference.
BTW, there's a small pin hole in the upper part of the gas tank (just enough to give it a gassy smell when the tank is full) but I don't think the hole would be big enough at this stage to cause the check engine light to come on in the same way it does if you leave the gas cap off or loose.
My car is misfiring, codes p0171 and p0300 come up on the code reader. It idles rough and has very little power. I have checked my exhaust , it is not plugged. When I unplug coil #2 while idling there is no change as to the engine performance so I switched the coils around with no difference when coil is unplugged on cylinder #2. I have changed the plugs, there is power to the coil, all plugs are firing and when removed plugs 2 and 3 are wet with fuel indicating I am getting fuel and fire. I have replaced the cam sensor with no change.
View 3 RepliesThe car doesn't seem to run that rough.
Replaced coil pack and spark plug wires with parts from O'reilly auto
16684 - Random/multiple cylinder misfire detected
P0300 - 35 -10 - Intermittent
16686 - Cylinder 2
P0302 - 35 - 10 - misfire detected - intermittent
16687 - Cylinder 3
P0303 - 35 - 10 - misfire detected - intermittent
I have searched and browsed multiple websites and threads to no avail. They all seem to be dead ends.
My 07 3.3 SF is throwing P0154 and P0300 codes. Autozone said the P0154 is Bank 2 pre-cat O2 sensor. But exactly which one? The P0300 is random misfire. Could they be related?
View 7 Replies