Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Engine Overheating When Drive On Hot Day
Jun 25, 2014
When I drive on a hot day the engine overheads; it almost red-lines. This occurs mostly when I drive up long steep hills (I live in the mountains) with the AC on, but even without the AC on very long steep hills (5+ miles) the engine will overheat badly. I can go over a hill and head downhill or flat and things return to normal quickly. I can also drive with the AC on doing 0-80 mph on a flat road and everything is fine all the time.
- Fan is working
- Thermostat has been replaced
- Radiator flushed
- Engine coolant temp sensor replaced
- Heat is working
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My engine started overheating, and because I was stuck on a bridge during rush hour (George Washington Bridge in NYC), I couldn't get stop the car. I drove it for approximately 30 min (slow crawl), and this happened: [URL] .....
Yes, I know how stupid it is, but there was not even a shoulder to pull over to the side. The only good thing is that this happened pretty much soon as Igot off the bridge, and not on the bridge.
Hose by the radiator cap (is that the overflow hose?) popped out and spewed steam for good 5 minutes. The car did not start at this point. I left the car by the gas station after the bridge, and came back later on in the night. It started and I was able to drive it home (about 10 min away) at crawl speed without it reaching the red zone.
Today, I just did the oil change, topped off on the coolant, and also replaced the thermostat. But the engine still overheats (to the red). The upper radiator hose is burning hot and the bottom radiator hose is not. Also, the fan is working, but it blows out pretty hot air.
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Car: 2006 sonata GLS V6, 62,000 mi
Abstract of symptom: Delayed cooling fan kicking in
Full Symptom description: 2 weeks ago, I was stuck in slow-going traffic. All of the sudden, I found the engine temperature gauge was pointing at the redline, which had never happened before! Then I was about to make an emergency stop on the shoulder, the gauge was falling back to the midline within 30 seconds. As I kept driving in the traffic, the gauge just fluctuated between mid-high to redline. There was a moment I had to stop and shut the engine down, then 1 minute later I restarted the engine, the gauge turned normal again: a little bit under the midline. Then the traffic improved, and the gauge stayed calm all the way home.
Then I noticed that the overheat problem only happens on slow-going/stop traffic; in another word, when I am driving down the interstate @60 mph, engine temperature is always perfect. (a little bit under the midline) At the parking lot, I triggered the problem to re-occur by idling while I was watching the cooling fan--and I found the fan didn't kick in until gauge hit mid-high. After fan kicked in, the gauge fell back to midline, but seemed never to the perfect status. (a little bit under the midline).
Differential: Coolant quality and quantity are good; no visible leak on radiator/hose; when I started a cold engine in the morning and turned on A/C at the same time, the fan kicked in immediately. And it seems that keeping A/C on can prevent overheat from happening, even in slow-going traffic.
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Is it bad shifting from drive to neutral then back to drive going 40mph without pressing on the gas only coasting on a daily bases?
2008 Sonata GLS ... Automatic transmission ...
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Check out the pics, noticed car was overheating, let it cool down, got it home and found this broken hose (it was a crack in the hose before I broke it all the way taking the throttle body off). What is the part number for this hose and what else I should be looking for now that the car overheated?
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Ok today I just drove from my house to my parents to get an electrical panel and it drove fine. It is about 17 miles of 55mph country winding highway. I arrive there and I smell the all too familiar hot brakes smell. I get out and see a little smoke coming from the right rear brakes. I know it must be either a locking up caliper or a bad caliper bracket as these are the Akebono brakes. What are your recommendations for replacement parts?
I plan to replace the drivers side rotor as more than likely it is now warped. I plan to change pads on both sides and the drivers side rear caliper. Is there a special procedure for a vehicle with anti-lock brakes to properly bleed them? I have a caliper spreader will I screw up the accumulator for the ABS if I just spread the old caliper for removal?
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I have a buddy with a 2006 Sonata, 3.3. It has about 138,000 miles on it.
When it gets hot, it will LEAP into gear. As if when you put it in gear, the throttle is pushed open 10% or something. Kinda like you would do with an old Ford or Chevy (like the 70's) that stalls when you put in gear. When it gets really hot, like after driving it for 30 or 40 miles, when you come to a stop, you lose the vacuum boost on the brakes, and the engine just goes on the pre-detonating rampage! It literally sounds like Dodge with Cummins diesel in it! It's fighting you while you struggle to keep it from LAUNCHING off the line. The strange thing is, as it is put back into N or P, it returns to normal instantaneously as if nothing was wrong in the first place.
My bud took it to the dealer, here is what they think it could be:
1. Clogged cats (nope, no back pressure, already checked)
2. Wrong spark plugs (it does not have the OEM direct replacement, it has some kind of dual electrode deal in it, but the part number crosses as an acceptable replacement)
3. The dealer did say that the ecm is up to date and that the throttle body is calibrated. That's what I thought it was in the first place.
In my professional opinion, I think it might be a ragged out timing belt. But I'm a domestic mechanic, not so strong with the imports (not trolling here, seriously, I work with fleets 99% of the time).
And there are no codes either.
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This happened all of a sudden today, engine i think is getting overheated. Like in the image below i see the red warning sign and temperature meter is all the way to "H". Well it keeps fluctuating. So i checked coolant oil and found it was empty so re-filled it beyond 'F' and i think it spilled it and was empty again. So this time i refilled the coolant oil up to 'F' and it stayed. But engine won't stop getting hot(i just did a couple miles after the second refill).
There is another problem with the air condition. IT blows cold air sometimes and normal air sometimes. Looks the compressor is turning off(i am really not sure). IS there a chance of any loose connection at the compressor ? If the freon is empty it should blow normal air continuously but it's not doing that. It keeps switching.
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I bought a 2009 Sonata V6 this past August. Immediately I had shifting problems. I asked my mechanic and he found the TSB. I took it to Hyundai and they took care of the TSB. The shifting problems stopped, but it is STILL literally JUMPING out of reverse when I'm going into drive. Dealer said they could not reproduce the problem.
I am a Toyota driver, and chose the Sonata based on price. So far, I am not impressed and plan to return to Toyota when this one is paid off. But, in the meantime, I want this car fixed, but the dealer acts like there is nothing wrong. I have warranty for another 25,000 miles....
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Today after work I cranked up the car (06 sonata) and walked around the car as I always do to check that all lights are good. I found the passenger side brake light out (wasnt' out this morning) so I drove 1/4 mile to autozone and got a replacement. Cranked back up and all is good so I jump on the highway and about 3 miles later the ECS & ABS lights come on the dash. Do I not have brakes? so I lightly push the brakes and the car slows down but I don't see the red from the 3rd brake light. I jump off at the next exit to see what's going on. I pull into a shell station and put the car in park but in won't go in park, only neutral? So I put it in neutral and set the parking brake, get out too look at the rear lights. The lights were on but when I pressed the brakes they did not get brighter nor did the 3rd brake light come on. Got back on the highway, drove the car straight home avoiding braking while on the interstate. I had to stick my key inside that little release thing to get the car in park, so now it's stuck in park. The car will stay parked until I can get it towed to the dealer, which probably won't be until Monday/Tuesday because on the holidays.
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In idle and driving the car sounds rough as if a pulley was loose, after checking no pulley was loose but problem still persists. Tried turning wheel left n right n noise didn't go away or get worse its a constant noise, what it may be? Crankshaft pulley? Idler pulley?
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I have clicking noise coming from the accessory drive on my 3.3L 06 sonata. It started off as a squeaky noise upon start up. I have since replaced the belt and the tensioner and now it is a clicking/ticking noise. It seems to be a lot worse when the car is just started and it slowly goes away upon warming up. In addition, when the car is cold the voltage light will turn on around sharp turns and steering will get hard (almost like something is putting drag on the belt). What it could be?
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So I have a 2006 2.4 sonata with a transmission whine only when pressing on the gas in drive or reverse. I just flushed and replaced the fluid and it is at the correct level. What I want to know is since the transmission has in internal filter, is it possible for me to clean it out to get rid of the whining sound?
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My car is 2008 Sonata GLS 2.4L. Recently the ESC off light turns on always when I drive a while after started the car. It still drives fine. But I have concerns of safety issues.
I heard it's a common issue for Sonata even 2011 model. I also heard Hyundai recalls for a system upgrade because of ESC off light problem. If it's true, will the dealership do it for my 2008 pre-owned Sonata for free?
It drives fine, but anyway it could be an potential safety issue. So should I drive the car to the dealership to have it fixed? I heard may owners spent a lot of time and money but never have it fixed.
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2009 Sonata, 4 Cylinder, Auto. 80K mileage, runs well.
I have noticed intermittently that when shifting either out of park to drive, or drive to park that the starter begins grinding as if it is being engaged. The last few times I have jiggled the key and this stopped it.
Googled and found some folks saying it might be the ignition switch selector but am really unsure right now.
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I have a 2006 sonata gls 3.3l v6. There is a whining/slight squeaking noise coming from the drive belt when i turn the car on. When the noise started it would only occur when turning with the AC or Heat on. It then escalated to whenever i started the car and would go away after driving for a while. Now the noise continues even after a drive sometimes..
I've been told by a mechanic friend that the belt looks ok. So my plan is to take the passenger side tire off and the splash guard on that side to get at the tensioner for the belt. Once I have the belt off i plan on turning the various pulleys that the serpentine belt goes on to see if i can figure out which one is making the noise. How to pinpoint where the noise is coming from?
Here's a link to a youtube video I put up with the noise my car is making ............ YouTube
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My 2006 Hyundai Tiburon is having issues with the AC not working when the car is idling. In addition to the AC not blowing cold air, the engine is running hot, almost overheating,however when I get up to speed and start moving again the engine cools back down and the AC blows perfectly. I can smell the sweet smell of antifreeze coming from some where when I get out of the car and I can see that it is leaking under the hood somewhere but I don't see anything on the ground. What is going on?
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A few weeks ago I noticed a fluctuation in my car's heater. The heater blows really hot when driving, and blows cold when the car is idling or coasting. I read up on the forums to check the coolant levels, which were full since my last fluid change a few months ago. The next step seemed to be to change the thermostat. I changed the thermostat and the heater acts the same, and since then the car has begun intermittently overheating. The temperature warning will flash on for maybe about a minute, then go back off. I have been running the heater on full blast trying to keep the car from overheating.
This brings me to a couple of questions:
There's an arrow on the thermostat. Does this need to point toward the radiator, or straight up?
In moving the air cleaner housing to get to the thermostat, I lost two of the little clips that hold it shut. Is this critical?
If the thermostat is good, and the coolant levels are good, there's no air in the system and I don't have any leaks, what could this be?
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This car started overheating while at drive thru and I noticed the cooling fan was not on. The coolant overflow tank was bubbling and the top had come off spilling coolant. dre it home and it runs hot now while driving. I pulled over a couple hours and let it cool off and then added coolant to the radiator directly and drove home with no issue.
Checked coolant level today and it was fine and I drove it a mile and back to the store with no issues. I wanted to ask how I could rig the cooling fan to stay on all the time to see if that is the problem before sinking money into t plus I am not convinced there is a more serious problem especially since it ran hot while driving.
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My daughter's 2002 Honda Civic is overheating unless you drive over 60 mph. The heater is also not working - it blows air but the air is cold. It is full of coolant - we checked. The thermostat was replaced about 2 months ago.
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So my 2002 Jetta 1.8t is overheating. The water pump was bad. Replaced. The thermostat. Replaced. Radiator. Replaced. Radiator cap. Replaced. We're running out of things to replace! I'm ready to go to a junk yard and get a new block! We've tried about 100 magical "ways to burp it" with no luck. We even tried running it without a thermostat. Without the heater core. EVERYTHING.
The car runs at operating temperature at 4 RPM. But when we take it for a drive, it overheats. There's no heat with the thermostat in unless you rev it at the high RPMs. As for the hoses, top is hot, bottom gets hot. As for the car, it runs beautifully. It gives no codes. No smoke either. Nothing in the oil, nothing in the coolant so I don't think it's the head. It just overheats. This has been FAR too long.
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