Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Engine Is Revving A Bit Higher At Idle - Code P0507
Oct 26, 2016
Having DTC of P0507? Engine is revving a bit higher at idle than normal.
View 4 RepliesHaving DTC of P0507? Engine is revving a bit higher at idle than normal.
View 4 RepliesJust this week my ESC light has come on and stayed on. Seems like the engine has been revving a bit higher too along with this light. Could this be a coincidence? The car doesn't seem to handle any differently. How to get this light off?
View 3 RepliesCar started idling all weird this evening, rising and falling when at a stop light. Car APR Stg 2+. Found the fault code above. I changed the map back to stock and cleared the code and it still does it. I let the car sit for like 30 minutes and started it up again and it sounds even worse like it wants to stall. I did a few google searches and it seems that it could be a faulty PCV or throttle body. How should I proceed? I'm thinking change the PCV and if the problem is still there it's a potentially larger issue.
View 11 RepliesMy Dad's R32 is revving at a higher rpm than it should at idle. It happens randomly for about a minute and then goes away only to return later. He took it to the stealership, but they will not facilitate because they could not replicate the problem. I'm thinking it is some kind of vacuum leak.
View 5 RepliesGranddaughter showed up with her '02 Accent idle varying between 600 and 2500 rpm. Disconnected Idle Speed Control Actuator and engine runs at very high idle so apparently the ECM is unsuccessfully attempting to manage the idle and the ISC is functioning. Reading P0507 code. Checked for vacuum leaks beyond throttle body, found none.
The car was involved in a fender bender accident a couple days before the idle issue. No CEL until a couple days after the accident. The varying idle started many days after the CEL.
The wreak cut a half dozen wires in the area outside of the battery. She repaired them and I just finished redoing with solder and shrink wrap. Found no faults with her twist and tape repairs or any other damage to wiring. Varying idle still there.
I have a 2006 Hyundai Sonata with a 2.4 liter 4-cylinder engine. After filling the gas tank, the car idles roughly, but accelerates and performs fine at higher speeds. The rough idle lasts about 5-10 miles and then goes away.
Six days ago, I changed the spark plugs and air filter. Four days ago, I filled up with gas (and had the same issue with the rough idle). This morning, I started the car and idled it for 2 minutes while I scraped ice off the windows. I drove the car about 5 minutes and the check engine light came on. I took it to Autozone and the code given was P2187, System too lean at idle bank #1. "
Autozone suggested that it could be an air intake fault (MAF sensor), fuel pressure, or vacuum leak. They also said they have a MAF sensor cleaner to try. I am not sure if the rough idle after fill-up and check engine are related. Also, I don't know if the spark plugs or air filter could be related to the check engine. I was planning on making some easier checks first such as hoses near where I worked last weekend, especially near the air filter. Cleaning the MAF sensor is easy too. I was also going to check for vacuum leaks (incl. intake manifold) and recheck the spark plugs.
08 Accord. After replacing the starter and cleaning the throttle body I keep having a CEL and the P0507 code.
Checked for leaks around intake, vacuum lines, etc. found none.
Tried the relearn procedure and still no luck. Car idea higher than normal ( just over 1000 rpms warm). Also feels like it wants to pull even when stopped.
So I figure I have either:-damaged the throttle body somehow cleaning it- Have incorrectly implemented the re learn procedure- missed a vacuum leak ( possible but doubtful)- or something else I don't know about
In my 2007 Sonata, I hit a poorly placed high manhole cover in a dip in the road, in the dark, going 30MPH, whacked it good before I could adjust...
I then pulled the car over, it seemed to go dead, then the car did crank back up, the engine sounded much louder, like a loud rev/hum, not quiet like usual.
I next drove a mile to a c-store, transmission seemed OK, no leaks, did see a check engine light briefly, but it disappeared. Car cranked OK, headed home, same sound right at cranking and at moderate speed.
Finally, I jacked the car up on the front left, from research appears that the plastic engine shields got smacked good along the front and near the right tire and bent back quite a bit on the left side. There seems to be no other structural damage that my untrained eye could see, just one indention you'll see in a couple of the photos that I think is part of the car design at that spot.
Again, no leaks, no smoke, no caution lights of any kind now.
Photos are attached...
My Hyundai's engine now sounds like a Mustang! Hoping it's just the engine noise from these plastic covers now being bent/destroyed in some spots, exposing the engine and the typical noise you'd hear without them...
My 09 Sonata LTD V6 was sometimes idling erratically (revving and slowing) after starting a cold engine. It never happened in the previous 3 winters I have owned it. I took it to the dealer for service and they said an ECM update was just released, described on the invoice as "TSB 10FL002 FOR COLD START ROUGH IDLE".
View 2 RepliesToday I started my car (in the garage so it wasn't too cold) and everything was fine. The car warmed up in a couple minutes and I was off.
As i was driving, I noticed that my shifting was horrible. It felt like i was burning the clutch and not releasing the clutch smoothly in general.
I then noticed that when i pressed in the clutch ready to take the next gear, the engine would raise the rpm's about 500-1000 revs before coming down.
I started to wait till the revs came down to shift and that seems to work.
Why would the engine be revving itself higher the second after i push the clutch in. My dealer can't take me until Wednesday so I don't know what to do.
I have several problems with my 06 FEH maybe some of you had same issues. I have imported this car from new york in my country 1 month ago, this is first Ford for me. Love this car but there is some issues and want to figure them out.
1. seat heating is turning on without clicking on the button, but not always it's random. Often on passenger seat some time on driver side to. I try to disable fuse but it also for 4x4 so it's not an option.
2. My engine idle RPMs is always higher that 1000. Maybe it is normal but want to be sure.
3. car cannot climb the hills here is the video.... car is just doing nothing to climb no rev up no trying just stall in middle. In my country there is some roads with hills like this and I want to visit that places.
4. Cruise control is working random to maybe it will start speed control in one click or after 20 -s try.
5.Is there any way to see soc? factory unis is replaced in my car with aftermarket radio. I have elm327 and tourque pro but can't find that option.
6. When monitoring with obd water temperature is always lower then it was on my other cars. its around 158-176F on other cars it was 200F.
YouTube......
Well, it's looking sort of depressing for my '06 Sonata! I had an oil change done yesterday and now I'm getting a Low Oil Pressure Light on idle under 1,000 rpm's. Today the check engine light came on and it's code P0021.
I also experience very noisy "bearing" type noise upon start-up which happens for about 10 seconds or so. This has been going on for a month or so.
During my online research it's appearing that I may be suffering from the dreaded Timing Chain Tensioner I've read a lot about.
I'm aware of the TSB (10-EM-006) and have a copy of it if needed.
My question is this...my Sonata has 151,000 miles on it, well beyond the 100k warranty period. Will Hyundai repair my issue as a warranty item under that TSB?
Trying to clean the throttle body on my 09 sonata 2.4L due to rough idle occasionally (throwing P0106, replaced MAF sensor still same problem), one quick question, is it okay to force the valve open (with connector disconnected of course), and is "re-learning" necessary and what's the proper way to do it?
View 2 RepliesI am due for an inspection for a 2004 Camry (4 cyl.).
I had the engine light come on with a P2231 or P2238 code on my OBDII tool. Car was running fine, no weirdness whatsoever. But I went ahead and changed the front sensor (Bank 1 Sensor 1). As soon as I changed the code went away and it is not coming out anymore, nor are other codes.
However, the engine doesn't idle after 5 minutes running. I have to keep revving it up at the light to keep going. I shut it off and it turns on no problem. But then it doesn't idle. What a pain, I used the Bosch O2 sensor bought from AutoZone.
I have an 06 sonata 4 cyl automatic.Today the transmission was slipping in first gear like the car was revving in neutral.Then after restarting the car it was completely normal. Code P0731 showed up.
View 1 RepliesI have a 03 explorer sport trac. I am getting code p0507. So someone told me it the Mass air flow sensor. so i went to the auto store and pick up mass air flow cleaner so the light went out for 3 day .now it back on again no air leak that i can see. Not saying there is none. Now someone telling me it a egr .
View 8 RepliesI just bought a 2010 Sonata. It runs just fine while running and about half of the time while I'm idling. The other half of the time I can feel my engine sputter. At first it wasn't all that bad but it has gotten worse lately. What could be causing this?
View 9 RepliesMy '06 GS450h has developed a fault where the heater blows cold at idle and low revs but blows warm when driving or revving the engine at a standstill. The coolant hasn't dropped at all and the car never goes above halfway on the temp gauge. Its starting to get frustrating now the cold weather has set in and temps dropping! Long journeys are ok as at high speeds it stays warm but short journeys are uncomfortable!
I just had a feel of the rad hoses and hoses that go into the matrix (engine side of bulk head) and matrix hoses feel warm (both of them), the top hose to the rad is warm but not hot and bottom hose is cold suggesting the stat hasn't opened yet. Its cold outside so getting the car up to temp is quite difficult without a long drive (rush hour at the mo).
Still I just had the car parked on the drive and cranked the heater up to max and held the accelerator for a while and super warm air blows out. The engine cuts back out as "normal operating temp" has been reached for battery mode and then the heater goes cool again! Still the bottom radiator hose is cool and top hose not massively warm. It has never overheated thus far and I drive 150miles a day back and forth to Reading from Cheltenham 4 nights a week.
Only thing I can think of is a sticky thermostat or water pump not operating sufficiently enough to circulate the water? Its getting colder and short trips where it used to blow warm air nice and quickly (within 3-5miles) are becoming unpleasant!
2006 sonata 3.3L has an engine miss that is most prominent around 30 mph but not detectable at idle or during acceleration. It has new plugs that are properly gapped. Transmission fluid is good and fresh. I even checked the ignition coils and had all about .9. I even changed the fuel filter. What else could it be?
View 7 RepliesI have a 2009 Sonata (base model) with about 60,400 miles (just out of warranty). My check engine light came on, I drove for about 25 miles or so and it went away. I still took it to a shop to get the code reading, it came back as "P0449 - EVAP Vent Valve Solenoid Circuit". Guy at the shop told me I can continue to drive without any issues but I should get it checked with a dealer. The engine check light is not on anymore.
I took it the dealer and they told me they will charge me $145 to run another diagnostic (they can not use the one I have from Auto Zone). And then on top of that, whatever they need to do, they will charge for that. And since I am out of warranty (barely) I will have to pay out of my pocket.
I have check engine light comes on first and after driving a few hundred miles later, light goes off. I drive the car for awhile about a few hundred miles and light comes on again. Basically on an off. AutoZone looked at it and got an error P2273 - it means oxygen sensor stuck rich. They told me to keep fuel tank cap tight. or something else may be defective. I have been driving last two years like this having engine light on and off. I do not see any engine performance difference.
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