Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Engine Has Lost A Lot Of Power
Mar 24, 2012
I drive a 2007 Sonata GLS with 54k miles on it. Recently, the engine has lost a lot of power and the fuel economy has gone down quite a bit. (20 mpg in mixed driving)
I replaced the engine oil; air filter & oil filter myself (Full Synthetic & FRAM filters). Engine is sounding and driving lot smoother now. However, the power & acceleration are still pretty bad. MPG is slightly better at 21mpg
I would like to change spark plugs myself and see if that will result in any improvements.
1. What spark plugs do you recommend should I use (there are too many brands out there)
2. How difficult is it to change them.
3. How I can get the car to perform better.
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My problem is on wed I was driving my car,when I suddenly lost acceleration power, after pulling over to the side of the road I turned off the car and restarted it. However I still had the same problem with acceleration. After a while of trying to get the car to start I called a tow truck and got it towed to the dealer. When I got there they told me it was likely and issue with with a sensor on the gas pedal and the engine. At the dealership I started the car to show them the problem however the car drove perfectly and no engine light came on.
They told me it was most like what they said over the phone the sensors. However on xmas eve they called me and left a voicemail saying the rear cat had went out and taken out both rear exhaust manifolds and it would coast $3000 to fix. My question is how can all that happen without the checking engine light coming on in the car and the car showing no problems while i was driving it and how did they miss it when I had took the car in two weeks earlier for regular maintenance and to correct a drive belt issue due to it walking after I purchased a new drive belt and pulley.
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I pushed the accelerator all the way to the floor at 30 MPH and the engine lost almost all power? As soon as I let up to about 9/10 throttle everything reverted to normal. Took it to the dealer and it showed no codes. The Tech and I took it for a road test and it did it only one more time. He said to keep an eye on it but was baffled. I tested it later in the sport drive mode and it would bog down every time if pushed hard to floor at about 30mph.
My best guess is that I got some bad regular low octane gasoline and the ECM is sensing a knock and retarding the timing or cutting off fuel flow similar to over revving condition. I will fill it up with 93 Octane Premium next time I get fuel and se what happens. Usually runs fine on 87 Octane but most of the time I don't floorboard the accelerator pedal. As I said at 9/10 throttle it runs fine.
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I have a 2008 Hyundai Sonata Limited w/3.3 engine with 41414 miles. I was driving along and the car lost power but the engine kept running at idle. Check engine light came on so I took it to a shop.They said the throttle control showed up bad. The whole throttle control system has to be replaced. This would cost @$450.00 Does this seem right that a car with only 41 thousand miles would need a major part like this replaced? The bumper to bumper warranty ran out in Jan 2013.
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I have a 2006 Toyota Solara V-6. I was driving down the street with no indication of what was about to happen. All of the sudden my check engine light came on and the car lost all power. I had the car towed home and had a mechanic look at it he put his scanner on it and I'm not sure what codes if any came up but he decided it was the ECM so he found a used one with a warranty and ordered it, he put it in and it did the same thing it turns over but wont start. What could it be ?
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I drove my 2012 Sonata GLS to work, when I left work the car lit up for a split second and then died. I thought the battery was the problem, swapped it out with a new one, nothing. Main fuse is good and all the fuses in the engine compartment are fine. Oddly the interior fuse box is not receiving power at all. Multi-meter shows life in the battery and engine fuses. There are no working lights of any kind, nothing happens when I turn the key, Key FOB not working, the whole nine yards.
The car has 63,000 miles on it, I purchased it 4 months ago from a dealership, declining bumper to bumper warranty. My sales rep and the warranty manager reassured me the 5 year, 100k powertrain would be transferred to me, and it wasn't. I'm currently fighting with the dealership over them covering it, but that's a whole other story.
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Doesn't happen all the time but when it does it is obvious at 45 mph. Not there at no load on engine. No code shown.
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My 2006 F250 was towing my 5th wheel when it started to loose power and eventually died. Would not restart. Replaced all fuel filters to no avail. Towed to mechanic shop. Has a little over 100,000 miles on it. Waiting for mechanic to check it out.
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I drive an 06 f350 with a 6.0 diesel. My truck has quit on me twice in two months. It lost power then stalled and would not restart. I had just changed fuel filters but checked them anyway to see if they were plugged. They looked clean so i put them back in and the truck fired up. It ran good then two months later it did the same thing.
I noticed I could not hear the fuel pump so i pulled the cap off if the top fuel filter to see if there was fuel in it, and heard air being sucked in (or pushed out?) as i loosened the cap. I put the cap back on then turned the key and i could hear the fuel pump working. I waited for glow plugs and it fired up. Is my engine getting vapor locked, or sucking air? If so then why would it only happen every now and then instead of continuously?
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So today on my way home from work. I got off at my exit and when I went to step on the gas I lost power and the truck wouldn't exceed 15 mph. It would just rev up and down. It was pouring white smoke from the tailpipe. At one point it went back to normal and started running fine for about 10 seconds. Then it went back to doing the same thing losing power and spitting smoke. I limped the truck into a parking lot and called a ride. I'm having a tow truck pick it up on Monday and take it to the dealership. Is this a head gasket issue? And I feel like it's going to be expensive. 2006 F250 6.0L .....
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Diagnosing our 2006 Hyundai Sonata.....2.4 L engine....automatic.
While cruising along, about 40mph and up I guess...when traveling at a steady throttle and engine speed... if you ever so slightly give it more gas, sometimes it will act as though it is losing power for a second and then kick back in.....but revs will stay up....
I was thinking either throttle position sensor or (gasp) transmission.....it doesn't really feel like a slipping tranny....but wondering if it is issues with the overdrive...
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Was driving on interstate and car started to loose power. Replaced battery and before I could make it home car started to loose power again (lost power steering and power brakes). Charged battery, replaced alternator, and now car starts fine but there are issues.
1) VGRS, VCS, and AFS lifts are on.
2) Steering wheel is 90 degrees off.
Car ran fine before alternator/battery replacement.
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So on my way home today I lost all power, the engine shut of and i coasted to side of the road. Went to try and start, nothing. When key is in the crank position the gauges were jumping all over the place, also accompanied by a lot of clicking from behind the dash. Nothing happened when tried to crank. No power to windows or even emergency flashers.
So i get it towed home, and of course it turns over. But this only lasts about ten seconds, then dies. I could do that a few times and then back to no power at all. Even at times with the keys out of ignition it will still click and make a lot of noise.
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My uncle bought an '05 that stopped running one day. He was driving down the road and engine lost power. He was able to coast into his driveway. Unfortunately, it's been 10 years since I've work on a 6.0 and no longer have any of my computers.
He did state there is no check engine light. He's going to change the filters today / tomorrow. I'm hoping to make it down there this weekend to look at it, but what to look for. Even more unfortunately, we really don't have any specialty tools or gauges.
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While pulling onto the highway and pulling pretty hard lost engine power all boost then engine truned off. Top of engine is covered in oil..... What happened?
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So after hitting a pothole, it would seem like half the engine lost power, after some searching around, i found that i would most likely be the harness inside the valve cover that has lost connection.
Its the right side, so i would need to take of the turbo pipe, and probably something else to get to it.
Since i'm doing this job, what to check out along the way? I want my 7.3 to be as reliable as possible.
I will probably ask some questions along the way, it can be a challenge sometimes to own a car that not many mechanics are familiar with, but as i have read online, this should be a very straight forward fix.
Can the harness be upgraded so it doesn't happen again? Its an 02
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I have a 2010 Elantra 4dSD 2.0 DOHC. 61, 522 miles on it.
I have had no issues with the car until about 2 weeks ago. Suddenly the EPS light came on and I lost power steering. Upon pulling over and restarting the car the problem went away. I went about a week, and suddenly it did it again. Restarted car, went away, still does this intermittently.
I took it to the dealer, they found the following codes:
EPS - Electronic Power - C1259 - Steering Angle Sensor Electrical
EPS - Electronic Power - C1290 - Torque Sensor Main Signal Fault
EPS - Electronic Power - C1604ECU(Brake System) Hardware error
EPS - Electronic Power - C2400 - Motor
ABSESC - ABS/ESC - C1202 - Wheel Speed Sensor Front - LH Invalid/No Signal
ABSESC - ABS/ESC - C1208 - Wheel Speed Sensor Front - LH Invalid/No Signal
ABSESC - ABS/ESC - C1211 - Wheel Speed Sensor Front - LH Invalid/No Signal
They reset the codes, and EPS Reflash. Recalibrated EPS. They told me if the problem comes back I would need a new steering column ($1500+). This seems a bit strange to me for an intermittent issue. It would almost seem to me that if multiple sensors are effected that they are receiving bad data from somewhere. Could the ABS sensors be causing this problem with bad data? I've also heard a failing battery could cause this type of issue.
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06 Camry SE I4
I had to replace my catalytic converter because of the code I was getting. It wasn't difficult to do, but took me a while because I had to transfer the thread rods to the new CAT. Once the new CAT was installed, I went to test her out, but noticed that the car all of a sudden, has no electrical power. Nothing at all. I checked all fuses and nothing is blown. The only electrical I messed with on the car was the O2 sensor.
Car has a brand new battery from yesterday. The only thing I didn't do is install a support bracket on one side, because it was missing a bolt and one thread rod was stuck in the old CAT, i couldn't remove it.
A friend suggested that the missing bracket may be causing a ground issue. Is this true?
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My Odyssey lost power on a long uphill about a week ago. I took it to my mechanic and he said that one of the cylinders is bad. No pressure. He told me that I need a new engine.My questions, can this engine be repaired?If not, what should I do about getting a new engine. What would be a good option on used engines?I live in San Francisco and I have been driving it slowly like that, but I try to avoid uphills as much as possible.
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I was headed down the highway in my 2007 Santa Fe last night. All of the sudden, I lost engine power. I pushed the gas peddle and nothing. We coasted down to a stop on the side of the road. I attempted to restart, all it did was turn over. I noticed the OIL light was on, so I got out and double checked my oil level. Right up to the full mark. Probably about a year ago, I had a check - engine light. I have a code that indicates that my gas level sender has failed, so my gas gauge does not work. I am sure you are saying.....he just ran out of gas. Well, not the case. I filled up the day before, and figured I had another 100 miles left on this tank.
Over 171000 miles on it and I have no intention of giving it up soon.
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The light engine is on - I understand that the O2 sensor on bank one is gone, the car hesitates and I would like to understand what is wrong. Maybe other sensors or perhaps the turbo. The car has 62,000 miles. Will the car recup power by replacing the bad O2 sensor?
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