Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Engine Sputters While Idle
Jun 17, 2013
I just bought a 2010 Sonata. It runs just fine while running and about half of the time while I'm idling. The other half of the time I can feel my engine sputter. At first it wasn't all that bad but it has gotten worse lately. What could be causing this?
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For a couple months now, maybe longer, my 2010 Accent has developed a funny "rough sputter" I would call it at idle. It seems to be getting worse and worries me now. The RPMs fluctuate as it happens. The CEL has never come on throughout this. I'm not 100% sure it's not present when driving.
I did not replace the Fuel Filter at four years or the Fuel Air Filter at two years & four years. Could this be a Fuel Filter related problem?
I got out of my car today to listen to it and noticed the exhaust was intermittent along with hearing the car sputter.
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I have a 2009 Hyundai Sonata GLS 4 Cylinder with roughly 100k miles. The car runs great, shifts great, drives smooth. The only issue I have is starting the vehicle. When turning the key the car cranks sometimes longer than normal and sputters a bit before fully starting. I feel somewhat of a jolt like the engine is firing but its not what I call smooth. The other day it cranked longer than normal started for 1/2 a second then died and I had to turn the key again to start. I have already replaced the spark plugs and air filters. A while back we had the fuel filter/pump replaced but I'm not sure what else to do considering that the car runs fine otherwise. I read something about an EGR valve and maybe it's a vacuum hose?...
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2006 sonata 3.3L has an engine miss that is most prominent around 30 mph but not detectable at idle or during acceleration. It has new plugs that are properly gapped. Transmission fluid is good and fresh. I even checked the ignition coils and had all about .9. I even changed the fuel filter. What else could it be?
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Having DTC of P0507? Engine is revving a bit higher at idle than normal.
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I have a high milage (210K) '07 2.4L which has a slight engine rattling noise at idle RPM at cold and operating temps, in gear or park. It is a fairly constant noise at idle but does vary a little. Otherwise, engine/tranny operate beautifully with no obvious problems.
I am concerned this could be a timing chain/tensioner related issue although I also wonder if it may be some other component. I have not been able to determine the source or location of the sound.
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I have a 2006 Hyundai Sonata with a 2.4 liter 4-cylinder engine. After filling the gas tank, the car idles roughly, but accelerates and performs fine at higher speeds. The rough idle lasts about 5-10 miles and then goes away.
Six days ago, I changed the spark plugs and air filter. Four days ago, I filled up with gas (and had the same issue with the rough idle). This morning, I started the car and idled it for 2 minutes while I scraped ice off the windows. I drove the car about 5 minutes and the check engine light came on. I took it to Autozone and the code given was P2187, System too lean at idle bank #1. "
Autozone suggested that it could be an air intake fault (MAF sensor), fuel pressure, or vacuum leak. They also said they have a MAF sensor cleaner to try. I am not sure if the rough idle after fill-up and check engine are related. Also, I don't know if the spark plugs or air filter could be related to the check engine. I was planning on making some easier checks first such as hoses near where I worked last weekend, especially near the air filter. Cleaning the MAF sensor is easy too. I was also going to check for vacuum leaks (incl. intake manifold) and recheck the spark plugs.
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I have a 2006 Town and Country with the 3.3L V6. The last four times I filled the gas tank the engine spits and sputters after running for 2 - 3 minutes. Sometimes it will even stall out. It will re-start after cranking for 4 - 5 seconds and then runs fine. It only does this right after I fill the tank and doesn't do it again until the next fill up. Thought that I might have water in the tank so I added a bottle of HEET to see if it would cure the problem, no effect at all..
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I've been fixing some boost leaks and changed "race" valve out to the stock "f" type...drove down road it's awesome put it back into 93 mode apr chip give it hell in 1st and 2nd then turn onto another road to repeat and when comes under boost it sputters...like a bad coil pack but wouldn't that mean it sputters from idle up?
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When at idle and it seems to either only do it or is worst when the ac is on. the idle seems to almost misfire. Usually its only for a couple seconds less then a min. I have had my odb2 hooked up to it and its about a 25-50rpm drop but it keeps doing over the course of a few seconds. It hasn't stalled doing it yet and its done it for years! however today at the drive thru it was quite aggressive. Usually I give it gas and its not as bad or completely stops, sometimes is doesn't work at all. This time I just let it keep doing it hoping a CEL would come due to it being more aggressive then ever but it just evened its self out after about 30 seconds. Almost feels like there is a mild performance cam in the car....
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I have a 2006 Hyundia Sonata. I idles really bad like you pulled 5 of the six plug wires off when you put it in gear. Once you start moving a couple miles an hour it is fine. It is also perfect in park or neutral, not a hint of a problem. Put it in drive or reverse and it almost stalls.
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Lately I have been hearing a rattling noise from the bottom of my car, when it's in park I can barely hear it but I know its there, but when i put it in drive or reverse it gets worse. Could it be that the exhaust heat shield is loose? Or worse? I had my Tranny fluid flused at 142,000 mi i'm at 144,000.
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I recently bought a 2004 Hyundai Sonata 4cyl with about 65k miles. In the past few months I've noticed that it likes to sputter and hesitate at times, mostly in lower gears when I'm not accelerating hard. At highway speeds it's mostly fine. It's also fairly random - some days it's really bad and others it's fine. Also seems worse when in reverse. I don't think the plugs have been changed so that's one idea, but I'm wondering if it's a bad fuel filter, exhaust manifold leak or something else. It's not throwing any codes (and yes the light works) and it has never stalled completely out.
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2007 Sonata V6 with 72K miles.
The car has developed a rough idle while in gear (i.e. when stopped at a stop light) and park (i.e. after I start the car).
It's starting to get a little annoying since I'm used to a very smooth idle.
I think this issue started within the last 2-3k miles.
Plugs were allegedly changed at 30k. A full tuneup was done at that time.
Wires are still original.
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In idle and driving the car sounds rough as if a pulley was loose, after checking no pulley was loose but problem still persists. Tried turning wheel left n right n noise didn't go away or get worse its a constant noise, what it may be? Crankshaft pulley? Idler pulley?
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2008 SONATA i4. The transmission started to whine a lot when first driven when cold, well transmission was replaced under warranty due to "pump failure"? I noticed that the loaner car I received for tranny replacement had a knock at startup so I called and told the dealership about it, they said it was the timing chain, it was a v6, oddly it didn't sound like timing chain to me, started after fast idle and went away within about 100 feet of driving.
2 days after I got my car back it would knock after I started it up cold when it came down off fast idle, and would knock for about 100 feet of driving or so, then the knock would disappear until the next cold start. exactly like the loaner V6. Well took my car in to have it looked at, got another loaner, 09 sonata I4, same knock, service couldn't replicate problem with my car.
Went ahead and got oil change, drove car home and the next day it had the same knock at startup when cold. Just took it back to dealership to have them look at irregular tap/knock when warm at idle, also car still has startup knock, but just not as loud.
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2007 Sonata V6. He's spent many hours and a good chunk of change at the dealership trying to get it fixed and nothing has worked yet. They honestly have no clue whats wrong which kinda scares me.
First off here is his problem. Occasionally when he starts the car it will idle very rough and struggles to accelerate to 30-40mph. When this happens he pulls over and shuts the car off for a few minutes then it will run fine again. When all of this happens there is no CEL or any light at all that flashes or comes on the dash.
Here is a list of things that have been replaced
Fuel pump
Throttle position sensor
Crank sensor
Plugs, wires and coil pack
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I have 114,00 miles on my car. Plugs changed and decarbonization done at 99,000 as well as ECM reprogram or update ($99). Anyway, when my car sits overnight and starts it is getting a rough high idle until I feather the pedal or give it a minute or 2 and it is fine. It is warm now in the 70's and this just started. I had it to the dealer for oil change and they looked at it. There are no codes, they recommended changing the plugs and doing a decarb again. So I told them if I need plugs there is something wrong, Iridium OEM were installed.
Anyway, they suggested changing the throttle body since it has new sensors. I have have the TPS replaced before when engine was surging. They told me there are 2 sensors and one could be bad in throttle body. I don't get it, I use Hyundai air filter now and change every 15,000 miles and get oil changes regularly and they use Quaker State Synthetic blend. I am wondering if maybe I have a faulty PCV? I don't think that has been changed. Don't even know what the interval is. Previously I was told there was none, but I disagree.
What would cause me to get carbon build up like they keep telling me? I don't want trial and error and throw parts and money at it since there are no codes. I was going to drive it til it throws a code. I do highway driving in suburban area, mostly 65 mph. The car runs good, still the intermittent hard downshift when slowing down but nothing like before the tranny was replaced.
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My car has had random misfiring when at idle and has been shaking really bad but once I accelerate and get up to speed the vibrations and misfiring stop but the check engine light flashes for a few minutes. I have changed spark plugs, all 6 ignition coils the intake manifold gasket and both camshaft position sensors. My car has 180K the codes that are showing up are 300,301,303 and 0016. I really love the car and have had no prior issues the car before this ran like a champ.
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I have Sonata 06 3.3L V6, vacuum getting confirmed code p0171 system too lean bank 1,and pending faults are both lean and rich on both banks and also at idle. i check vacuum leaks but no luck, one thing I observed when I drove car at high speed only 3000 rpm or above LTFT 1 corrected to 0. I am using torque app.
I can not open my trunk through remote key, it is opening with driver side switch, trunk lid latch is unlocked position, remote key is working fine with doors.?
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I have a 1981 Toyota pickup. when i start her. she starts fine, but sometimes she will idle fine, and then suddenly refuse to. it seems to be random. i can keep her running if i keep my foot on the gas just a little, to keep her rpm's up. but have to put her into N and keep my right foot on the gas and my left on the brake to stop her when she refuses to idle. when she does this on the freeway, it just sputters and runs rough, but as long as i have the gas on, she keeps going.
I don't know what it is that regulates the idle to keep her going when my foot isn't on the gas. also her serpentine belt is slipping. the one attached to the alternator, i can see her charge voltage dropping when she squeals her belt. that i know how to fix, but i'm wondering if it's that, that is the issue? i was told that, but i don't think her serpentine belt has anything to do with her idling. i was told how to raise her idle on the throttle cable and the Idle screw, but is there something else that regulates her idling?
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