Sonata NF (2006-10) :: ESC Warning Light Started Coming On Intermittently / Solid Not Blinking
Jun 4, 2013
The ESC warning light has started coming on intermittently on my 06 GLS. Stays solid, not blinking. Turning the car off and starting again resets it but never for long.
The brake light switch was already replaced once at 36K miles. It's now at about 84,500. Do these things have a history of going bad multiple times?
For what it's worth, my little ELM327 ODB II plug-in gadget shows no faults but it may not be able to see the right data. I'm taking it back to the dealer in the morning, where they probably won't fix it and probably will break something else.
View 4 Replies
Advertisement
Today riding to work... the little TPMS light (looks like a tire with and ! in the middle) came on - Started blinking for a minute then went solid. so I pulled off the highway and checked my tire pressure.. all tires were 31 or above.. (S/B 33)
Topped off all tires w/ air and went back on the road - light didn't go out... then on the way home, it went off... and it wasn't the cold.. It was a 'balmy' 20 this morning...
Owner's manual says it was the TPMS system malfunctioning OR interference from outside... 2012 Sonata GLS ....
View 32 Replies
2 days ago i drove to a store, went in and came back out, started the car up and the EPS light was on. It would switch from either blinking or solid on. The steering still to this point works just fine, and i can not feel any difference in it.
The next day while i was waiting for a ride to get the car dropped at the garage, i went to start the car up and it was drained. Lights still came on but it didnt have enough to turn over. Upon a jump it worked fine, and would continue to run ok. It would restart after that quite a few times, even with full electric load on before starting(ac/radio/all lights/so on). Battery tested at 30% charge and 12v output, couldnt check amps at auto zone because of low charge. Since its factory battery from a 2010 model i just went and replaced it anways.
Since that point i have had both battery and alternator tested, both working fully. The EPS light remains on, and the car still acts 100% normal after 2 days of light driving.
Is it possible the dying battery could have some how messed with the EPS system causing that, and only that, light to turn on? If so, short of having the codes reset at the garage, would it be safe to continue light driving, or should i take it in right away?
View 5 Replies
The light flashes then turns solid. I checked the pressure to find 32lbs in the tires. I pumped them back up to 36 front, 35 rear (per suggestions here to minimize steering wander).
The light remains on. Knowing the pressures were fine, I have driven it several days to see if the light goes out on its own. No dice.
While driving last week, the wife asked about this and we pressed the Blue Link connect button. The service rep who responded said she saw no pressure warning on her remote panel.
Over the weekend, I tried inflating the tires to 40psi, thinking that the higher pressure would reset the light and then I could lower the pressure to normal levels. That did not work, either.
So yesterday, I called the dealer and the service rep said the system warns of BOTH under pressure and over pressure. She suggested setting the tires to the "sweet spot," at 35psi. I did this, and the light remains on.
I guess I will need drive to the dealer and let them piddle with it. I like the system, or at least the idea. But I hope I don't have to drive to the dealer after every attempt to maintain the tires.
View 13 Replies
The car is a 1994 Buick Century, 3.1L V6, ~ 80k miles. Four months ago she wouldn't start, so I got a new alternator and battery put in. A month later, while on a short road trip, the dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree the whole drive home (ABS, airbag, check engine, battery) and the voltmeter bounced around from mid-high to red-zone high. Thinking it was a bad reman, the alternator was replaced again when we got home. A few weeks went by and all seemed to be going well with the new alternator until, after driving around the city for a while, the airbag light started blinking intermittently.
Accompanying the blinking, the battery gauge again was bouncing around. Eventually, when accelerating from a stop, the car stuttered when moving forward, the battery light flickered, and the ABS light stayed on. Worried that I'd burn up another alternator, I had a mechanic look at it before my next trip. He checked the alternator/battery loads and pulley and said that nothing looked wrong. On the next trip, the intermittent airbag light blinking and voltage fluctuation returned as well as a single episode of stuttering from a stop... these things all only seem to happen after at least an hour on the road.
TO RECAP: Voltmeter gauge steady sometimes, bouncy other times... but usually too high. Airbag light blinks intermittently (seems to happen only after car is warm). Sometimes (rarely) the car will jerk from a stop, at which point the ABS light stays on. No check engine lights. Battery and alternator are new. Same problems (voltmeter in red, warning lights) occurred with last alternator until it burnt up. It seems like a voltage regulation / alternator problem, but the same symptoms occurred with two different alternators (with two different internal voltage regulators). I suspect that there is some electrical problem (short?) that is causing the fluctuating voltage and the tendency for the car to burn up alternators so frequently. However, I don't know much of anything about cars. Does that sound right? If so, where do I even start?
View 1 Replies
Just bought my first F150. 1998 XLT 4.6l automatic. 126K miles, looks like it was mostly garage kept. All power, A/C, etc.
Picked it up this evening, drove it home after dark. About a 30 mile mostly highway speed drive. Everything went fine, no problems, no hiccups......Until I turned on my last street, about a half mile from home. The battery indicator light on the dash started blinking intermittently. I didn't notice anything else, just the red battery shaped light blinking.
What would cause this, what should I check? I don't want a big problem when I haven't even transferred the title yet!
View 12 Replies
After about an hour of driving, the coolant temperature light on my 2010 GTI started blinking. The gauge never showed a temperature higher than the usual 190, including traffic and idling. Having reached my destination, I shut the car off and then back on, happy to see no warning lights at all. One dinner and some three hours later, I started back for home. 20 minutes into the drive, the car sounded three tones and the blinking light came on again.
Like before, the car drove without incident for the rest of the drive, and the light was no longer present once the car had been shut off and then on again. The owner's manual said that the coolant level might be too low, or the temperature too high, but neither of these seem to be the case. The car is equipped with GIAC stage I software and an Audi S3 intercooler.
View 5 Replies
While driving home yesterday my AFS Light started blinking. Middle of the afternoon, lights aren't on, and boom, it just starts. So I get home thinking maybe the leveling arm in the rear got loose and crawl under the car, nope, that looks fine. Check the front, no issue there. So... Sure enough the lights don't auto level or 'look' around turns any more.
View 1 Replies
The airbag warning light came on last week and stayed on for my hour commute home. Later on that same evening, I took the car out again, and the light was off. Stayed off for about 3 or 4 days and now comes on intermittently. I called the dealership today to try and set something up, and they said if if it's coming on intermittently, check under the seat for anything obstructing the airbag sensor and whatnot. I looked today and found nothing (I keep my car extremely clean) but none the less found no issue. The service advisor from the dealership also said that I need not bring it in unless the light stays on all the time. But I'm insisting on bringing it in in the next few days. I'm just concerned that either the airbags may inflate without cause, or may not inflate in the event of an accident. Should I wait until the light stays on? Going into the service department at my local dealer is always at least a 2 hour ordeal and they don't issue loaner vehicles unless they absolutely have to. I just don't want to waste my time.
View 20 Replies
It's the same every time. forty minutes into a drive and the TPMS light starts blinking. It blinks for about three minutes and then goes solid. After two minutes or so the light goes off completely. Every time I check, my tire pressure is perfect. I carry a good analog gauge with me and monitor pressure obsessively.
View 4 Replies
Ok, got a 99 Buick Century that is a cantankerous old hag. It doesn't like to start sometimes. naturally when i really need to get somewhere. The security light blinks at me for a while, goes solid, then i cycle the ignition and hope it will start. It happens with multiple keys and remote start(which has been removed multiple times because each mechanic thinks that will magically fix it). No rhyme or reason, it sends no code, the local buick dealership couldn't figure it out. I think its my security computer. what is the easiest/cheapest diy solution besides get full coverage and leave it in the ghetto with the keys and hope it ends up on cops? battery is fine, it starts normally most of the month, just maybe a handful of times a month it won't. Starter I believe is still good as well, and gets voltage when it starts. Fuel pump audibly works all the time.
View 4 Replies
Since i have owned my car the brake and ABS lights have been on (bought it like 2 months ago) i have a solid ABS light, and as long as the ebrake is down the brake light blinks.
Through searching I found that i most likely have a bad abs module. Before I take it out and send it to get repaired, i was wondering if there is anything else that i could check.
I also used VAGCOM to try and talk to the brakes and there is no response from the controller.
View 3 Replies
Why is My Tire Pressure Light On?
View 9 Replies
My 2.8 v6 2000 has been acting wierd when shifting it kind of feels like the clutch is slipping its through acceleration so when the rpm's are climbing it feels like it is slipping but than above 3 rpms it accelerates with no problem, when it feels like it is slipping the check engine light blinks, obviously telling you to stop driving, but than the check engine light goes back to a solid warning and stops blinking. just had my oil changed and after that my check engine light came on solid, now it is sluggishly bumpy when accelerating and feels like the clutch is not catching,Wish i knew what it could be.
View 2 Replies
I bought a 2005 RX330 a couple months ago. It now has 48,500 miles. The following happened 3 times while driving:
The ABS, Brake, and VSC lights come on solid and the Low Tire Pressure light blinks. Things go back to normal after I turn the engine off and start it again.
Dealer wants to see it first before they do anything about it. Problem is that every time it happened the dealer was closed. I live about an hour away and I’m not even sure I want to drive for one hour while these lights are on.
Reading some postings it seems like this was a known issue with the 2004 models (brake light switch). Same problem with a 2005 model?
View 11 Replies
Ok...so I drove my car last night about 120 miles and all was well. Got up this morning to go run some errands and the car started acting weird, sputtering. The check engine light was blinking on and off, then it came on solid and stayed on. I haven't checked the code yet.
2004 Jetta GLI1.8 T Manual Transmission
View 7 Replies
I have a Sonata v6 3.3 2007 Its passenger Air Bag light is on, how much its gonna cost me to fix it ?? and sometimes when i stop at the signal light the oil light starts blinking, why is that, and as soon as I start driving it goes away.
View 11 Replies
The airbag light in my 06 sonata has been on for the past couple days. And today I noticed when I was driving the car by myself the passenger seatbelt light was blinking and the passenger airbag light off bag wasn't lit? Even though there was no one in the passenger seat? I'm just wondering if there was ever a recall and if I should take it to the dealership.
View 1 Replies
Today I drove about 250 miles, round trip. About 75 miles from home, my TPMS warning light started flashing, then came on steady. I also received the Blue Link message about problems with the TPMS system. We pulled off the interstate at the next service station (about 3 miles) and checked all of the tires. All 4 read exactly 33 psi.
Restarted the car and continued on. After about a mile, the light turned off. About 10 miles later, the light started flashing again. It flashed for about 2 minutes then shut off again. We continued home without seeing anything more from the light.
The only thing at all out of the ordinary, is that the temperature has changed from a high of 35F earlier in the week to 70F today. There is a lot of moisture on the ground. Is it possible condensation may have affected a sensor? I have a 2013 GLS with 2800 miles on it.
View 13 Replies
After removing dpf and egr check engine light is blinking. DPF and EGR were turned off in ECU. I rewrited ECU 4 times with different parameters that was working on other Sonatas.
Still after a while p2002 error comes out and check engine flashes.. few times in day Sonata is starting regeneration (I don't understand how because DPF is turned off).
View 2 Replies
I have an 06 Prius with about 170k miles. The hybrid battery was replaced shortly before I bought the car last year.
About a month ago, the red triangle warning light started coming on when I'm stopped. It usually stays on for a few seconds once I start moving again. The MFD just says "Problem" for a few seconds, then displays the icon for a headlight. Once the light clears, the MFD goes back to its normal display. Originally, it was lighting up once every other day or so, but now it's lighting two or three times per trip. I'm going to have to do something about it, but I'm trying to get my head around what to expect.
My understanding is that the red triangle could mean anything from "The door is open and you're moving. Please close it." to "Your car is about to melt down! Seek cover!". I have an Automatic OBD dongle, and it's not reading any diagnostic codes. But as I understand it, there's a whole different set of diagnostic codes that a "regular" OBD reader won't catch.
I keep seeing reference to ScanGauge devices -- do they read the second set of diagnostic codes? I talked to a mechanic in the area who will read the codes for about $100. Is the mechanic likely to be reading the codes with that tool/is that what a dealer would use to read the codes? Is the dealer likely to charge to read the codes?
View 5 Replies
