Sonata NF (2006-10) :: ESC Lights Turned On After Driving 5 To 30 Minutes
May 24, 2011
New prob for my 2006 Sonata 3.3 L. After I drive it for 5 to 30 minutes, the ESC Off light comes on. Prior to it coming on the ESC off button appears to work fine, and if I peel out from a stop the ESC system seems to work fine. The only thing I have done recently was change the battery and the drivers low beam headlight. I have tried disconnecting and reconnecting the battery again, but same prob. Is it time to just take it into the shop? BTW, I already had the recalled brake/stop light switch replaced over 6 months ago.
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Sonata NF 2.0 ... 3 days ago, my care drove for - 4 minutes then engine shut down. Try to re-start the car but unavailable. I towed the car to workshop, they claimed high possibility is the fuel pump faulty.
Initially a check was done found fuel pump good (the technician disconnect the tube before the fuel injector assembly). They did a diagnose test found no error code registered.
Subsequently check on the fuel pump found no fuel come out before the fuel injector assembly (same as previous, disconnected before the assembly). Fuel pump was replaced. The engine can start running but will shut down after a while.
What is the possible cause and how to identify the root cause.
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My 2009 Sonata 2.4L GLS is jerking at around 20mph when I slow down for the first 10 minutes that I start driving. I have taken it to the dealership 2 times. The first time, they updated the computer module for the transmission, however the problem was still there afterwards. The next time, I did a transmission fluid flush and fill, but yet I still have the same jerking problem.
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I'm having a serious problem with my 2-year old 09 Sonata....
It happened for the third time: after driving for a couple minutes, numerous dashboard signals flared up and my power steering suddenly seemed to turn off - all in the middle of driving. The first two times I took the car in, they found problems. One of the malfunctioning components was the timing belt, and they replaced it for us. After the third time, however, they couldn't find any problems and my car was deemed "perfectly normal." They didn't do anything for us.
Now, I'm left with a 'normal car' that I know will show the same problem sooner or later.. maybe in a more dangerous situation than the previous 3.
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I drove from office to home today. After 30 min, the remote unlock worked fine, got into the car, turned the ignition to "A" and "ON". All the dashboard lights, headlights and radio turned on. When I turned the key to "START" , car won't start and all the lights and radio turned off. There was no cranking and any other noise from engine. Removed the key and tried again. Now there is no power at all. Not sure what happened.
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I have an '06 Prius with ~170k miles on it. I bought an extended warranty, and it's scheduled for diagnostics for an AC issue next week. However, I was driving my wife to work when this happened ...
Cruise Control shut off, but the car handled just fine. We weren't far from our destination, so I got her there, parked it, and shut it off. I powered it back on after a minute or two, and only the check engine light came on.
I haven't checked the fuses yet (too dark and too high traffic where I am), and I'm not the most knowledgeable when it comes to cars.
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So today my car has started having this issue I just can't figure out. Twice while I was driving down the road my car suddenly acted like it was going to stall, the dummy lights all went off, the AC and radio both shut off, and the clock reset. I cleaned the terminals and checked the codes but nothing came up and it happened one more time.
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I have a 06 sonata v6 with 120k. Today while driving the car started to lose power then the lights on the dash board flickered radio went nuts and the car lost all power. What could be causing this? Moved battery a little bit and got power back but then started driving and it did the same thing. I did have the heater on 2. You can feel it lose power while accelerating.
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2006 Chrysler Sebring Convertible. This car is driving me crazy. Last summer, we drove it from Denver to San Diego. The trip was perfect but within minutes after we arrived the car would not restart. It has been towed to mechanics 5 times and had the starter replaced twice, the battery, pndlr switch each replaced and of course they always find various other things that are needed that don't have anything to do with starting the car. It will work for awhile and then not start again. The last 2 times, we sent it to the mechanic, they jumped it and could not duplicate the situation after several days trying and sent it home. We thought it might be the radio that was installed a few years ago so we removed it, but now the car won't start again.
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I have a 2006 Dodge Caravan, on two separate occasions the headlights turned off and we could not get them on for several minutes. And on one occasion we couldn't turn them on. Now they seem to be working fine right now. The bulbs seem to be okay, I was thinking maybe a relay but I can't find a relay for the headlights. What it could be?
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I have an issue with the transmission not allowing me to shift from Park if I drive for couples of minutes unless I re-start the car. Also, if I drive for couples of minutes while I'm putting the cruise control on Standby mode or ON, it will shut off by itself along with the light for the economy driving mode.And again if I re-start the car everything will work.
This video will show you what I'm talking about : [URL] ....
My car is GLS 2011 and has 85,000 miles.
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I've stumped the local dealership and their Hyundai Tech Line as well. This is a 2011 Hyundai Sonata with about 50k miles. Also this is my first winter with it so I can't tell you if it's a new issue or if it's always happened in the "cold". This is Northern California so the cold nights are about as low as 30.
On a cold start, after 20-30 minutes the heater sputters out and the lights on the control unit go out. Sometimes it goes back on if I continue driving for 5-15 more minutes; another way for it to go on again is to turn the car off and start it again. The final way to turn it back on (which was discovered the last time it was in the shop) is to gently begin to start the car again (while it's on) and just that slight movement in the ignition cylinder turns it back on.
The sputtering out doesn't actually turn it off completely, just the lights, buttons and knobs stop responding and the heat mostly goes off.
The control unit has been replaced, plugs have been tightened and the ignition cylinder has been replaced.
They've road tested it 3 times and I'm a little tired of having to get a rental car as they claim to not be able to start a new case with Hyundai Tech Line until they have my car.
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I have a 2011 Sonata Limited that now has 70k+ miles on it. For the past year I have been having a problem with the car turning off intermittently, it will occur at random times. I have had no issues starting the car whatsoever.
When I go to shut off my car the engine will turn off, but the cabin lights, and radio will stay on. The screen will also tell me to shift to park. Without turning the car fully on, I can shift the gears sometimes and I will shift it from drive to park again, and it still will not fully shut off. Today, it actually took 20 minutes to get it to go off - every time I hit the start/stop button I could hear it click as well, which was a new noise that I hadn't detected.
I have presented this problem to the dealership, but every time I do take it in the issue never seems to occur while there (just my luck) and they say they have "never heard of such an issue" to the point where I feel insane.
All recalls have been taken care of on my car at this point so I am not sure what the issue is, my fear is the switch is going out, but wouldn't I have the same issue starting the car?
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My radio never turns on with the car right away. The only way it turns on is when i crank my heat on for about 3-5 minutes. Then it powers on. Fuses seem ok. The service center didn't know what could cause this...
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I picked up my V8 yesterday. Overall great car. I spent several hours at the dealer working out little things and doing some shakedown driving. So I finally am ready to pull the trigger. I pay, they hand me the keys, and I am off. It's now dark, the dealership is closing, and I have to drive home. I get in the car and the floor lights in the front (where your feet are) and in the floor of the rear cargo area won't go off. I play with every control in the car and cant get them off. The overhead lights turn off - no problem. Then I get home and turn the car off. They still wont go off. I have to pull the fuse to get them off so it wont run the battery down. Then I notice that the red instrument panel will not go off either - end up pulling that fuse too.
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I have a 07 Sonata with about 94K on it. I have noticed the last few weeks after I am done with work and back out of my stall and turn the wheel to the right it makes a creaking sound. After this one time it won't do it again. It just does it if the car has been sitting for several hours.What it could be?
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2004 Excursion 4x4 6.0. I just had the fuel injectors & wiring harness replaced and it runs great, but after 30 minutes of driving the complete dash lights/gauges stopped working. I found that the #45 10amp fuse had blown so replaced it and after 20 minutes the same thing happened. While it was working all of the lights & gauges seemed to be working okay. This doesn't effect anything else, still starts & runs okay, turn signals work, head lights work, but the head light auto on/off doesn't.
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I was sitting in a parking lot waiting for someone for about 2 mins when I went to drive away I turned the steering wheel and the car stalled. This never happened to me before it has not happened again yet. I did also have the A/C on if this makes a difference. I figure the ac clutch engaged at that same time or some fluke thing happened.
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My 2008 Sonata finally let me down after 4-1/2 years of flawless service. Turned the key, it cranks fine, but won't start. I think it's the fuel pump. It has 63,000 miles now so the bumper-to-bimper warranty is over. Is the fuel pump (if that's it) covered by the 100,000 mile drive train warranty? I checked fuses and they are all fine. I don't know if there is a fuel cutoff switch. It might just be the pump relay...but I want to have it towed, and the choice is dealer or my regular mechanic.
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I have a 2003 Honda Accord V6 that has some acceleration hesitation and general jerkiness, usually noticeable when the car has been sitting for a long period of time (overnight). The symptoms seem to dissipate after 5 - 10 minutes of driving.
When I begin accelerating, the car feels like it hesitates when shifting from 1st to 2nd gear. If I let off the gas a bit, then the car jerks a bit.
I'm sure it's not the transmission, because the dealer said the fluid and everything looks fine. Additionally, I have another Accord (2000) that does have a failing transmission and the symptoms on that one are very different from this 2003.
A couple of months ago, I was getting a CEL and had a friend of mine read the code with his OBD tool. It indicated that Bank 1 Sensor 1 was bad. I replaced it with a Denso. I think the problem got better at that point, but has "worsened" again over the past month or so.
Any clues what this might be? Things I can try? Ways to narrow down the issue?
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I have a 2006 Chevy Malibu Maxx LT with 94k miles. On cold mornings I have consistent problems with the car's electronics. They can be as benign as a warning bell about 2-3 minutes after starting driving. Sometimes, one of the warning lights will accompany the bell (power steering, traction control, etc), and then return to normal. Some mornings, all of the gauges will not work/stop working for the first 2-3 minutes of driving and then return to normal. The worst case scenario is that the car will not start at all. All lights, radio, etc. will work, but the car will not crank. I have had the car to a couple of shops where they have tested the battery and starter.
Both are new and working fine. No codes are ever generated. My question is how can I go about isolating what appears to be an electrical (or electronic) fault somewhere in the system that gets aggravated by cold weather. I read in another forum that the ignition system in other GM cars (the Saturn ION was one example) would trigger a fault in the ignition system in cold weather and the KeyPass security system would shut down the ignition for 10 minutes. For me, it's only occasional that the car will not start, but there is some electrical issue most every day that it's below 40 overnight. I have never had an issue after the car has started once during the day - this only happens on the first start of the day. Only once did the car go 2 days without starting.
1. Battery cables?
2. fuses?
3. etc.?
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