Sonata NF (2006-10) :: ESC OFF And Code P0102 After Replacing MAF
Nov 27, 2011
so i just bought my '06 sonata 2.4 lt 4 cyl and it had problems with idling when i plugged into the computer i got a p0101 error code saying there was an air flow problem... took it to the dealer since it is still under warranty and for $100 they told me it was my mass air flow sensor and it would be 4 days and $370 more to replace.
I was able to buy the part from napa and replaced the old one (very simple process) and at the direction of the dealer i was told to disconnect my battery for 15 or so minutes to clear the computer data.
When i powered everything back up the car idles and runs fine but i am now getting a check engine light with p0102 lower voltage than expected from the mass airflow sensor AND a new light popped on "ESC OFF" the button will not turn it back on and i cant think of anything I did would have turned it on?
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I keep having the P0102 (MAF Circuit Low) code come up. I've replaced the MAF twice already. I also have the P0113 (Intake Air Temp Sensor) which has been replaced as well. Could the breather hose coming off the Intake Air Duct leading to the oil cooler cause this.
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Trying to get my daughters Santa Fe going. Engine stalling. Idles very slow. 2001 model with 2.4 engine, auto trans.
Code P0102 is active. Cleared with scan tool and it comes right back.
Replaced the MAF and no change.
Checked the intake for leaks / vacuum leaks and none found.
Checked for debris up-stream from MAF and all is clear.
Air filter is clean and dry.
Checked harness plug and found the pin 5 has 4.6 volts on it from PCM. This is the signal wire from MAF to PCM. 4.6 volts is KOEO.
IS THIS NORMAL OR IS PCM BAD ??? All other pins / voltages on harness plug are normal.
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So today i got my first check engine in the .:R. I was merging onto the freeway and i shifted into third rather enthusiastically (didn't redline in 2nd but i was probably at 6k rpm) and put it into 3rd gave it the gas and the tires squealed and I got the traction control light. Has me a little worried since the traction control light didn't go off afterwards. Got off the freeway and pulled into a parking lot and turned it off for a minute and when i started back up I got the check engine light also. Went to schmucks and pulled the codes and the only code I was able to pull up was P0102 MAF circuit low. I highly doubt my traction control light has anything to do with the MAF circuit. I notice when in 1st and 2nd gear (can't really tell about beyond 2nd because there is too much road noise) there is a slight whine. I cleared the codes and the check engine came back but the traction control light never went off.
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I have a 2001 Regal GS with 105K. It starts, idles and runs fine if I drive it like a Grandpa, but if I try to accelerate even 1/3 or more throttle, it surges and misses. It keeps giving a P0102 (Mass Air Flow A Circuit Low), sometimes less than a minute from resetting it, and other times after 5-10 minutes of driving. I've tried 5 MAF's, two of which were new, and one from a known good running L67 motor. Plugs are new and wires are good. The power and ground wire of the connector test good, but I'm not able to test the signal wire. I've also checked over all vacuum lines and hoses, and pressure tested the exhaust for a plugged cat. I even tried another TPS.
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1999 buick century custom .. 3100 motor .. 200k+ miles ..
It all Started 2months ago.. once every few weeks my car would hesitate during acceleration (leaving a light for example) but just once.Then started it up one day and it was idling rough..also stalled out twice.
Dropped it off at a shop after hours so he could check it out in the A.M.he calls n says its not acting up at all.
Get the car back and drive it 2 more weeks..then it happens again. Rough idle and hesitating...take it directly to the shop but its acting normal again by the time I get there (starting to feel like im crazy)
So I take things into my own hands... I change air filter, clean MAF and throttle body. Change the plugs and wires.
start it up and it seemed to run better than it ever has.. for about 5mins.I took it for a test drive and it started sputtering and bucking and eventually died to the point of undrivable.
Got towed home.NOW it starts dang near everytime but runs EXTREMELY rough for a few seconds before eventually dying. It will run a bit longer if I unplug the MAF (45seconds maybe) but runs like fecal matter the whole time
I have swapped out the MAF, EGR valve and IAC valve with parts from a 97 century (which runs fine)And nothing seemed to change the condition.
Changed fuel filterchecked fuel pressure with key on (41psi)Also replaced the timing chain and gears (thinking it slipped) but it didnt make a difference.
I pulled codes but all it had was a P0102 (MAF low input)But I think that might be from it being unplugged so many times?
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2001 jetta 2.0 VW guys a while back I was pulling a code saying that the air temp sensor circuit was low I believe it was P0112 so I replaced the maf with a bwd maf. Said it was for the car. Was fine for a day but now it has a P0102 code and the epc stays on (rough idle) what could be wrong ? Is it because the car hasn't learned the new sensor yet because I've only drove 10km or do I have a faulty sensor. BTW replacing the maf fixed the P0112 code
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CODE P0102 "Mass or Airflow circuit low input" That was the code and upon checking my records prior to storing it for the year. I installed a new IAC,MAF, Fuel Pump and lots of new hoses, PCV, Fuel injection regulator. The Vehicle has only 110K miles. Now here is the clincher, after doing just the fuel pump it ran perfect for at least 25 miles, perfect I say. When I shut if off I got the check engine light, and thus the code which led me to install the other stuff. Now after pondering the matter, seems that it acted in a similar way PRIOR to my doing anything but there was no code previously. Like maybe some strange electrical connection, or something.
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Changing the valve cover gasket on the 4 cylinder 2.4l. I was going to change mine's. Didn't know if there are any special tips like sealant to be used, loosening bolt sequence or tightening sequence, torque values.
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Ok, my 1996 Buick Regal is acting up. I got a CEL, which was a P0306 (Cylinder #6 misfire), took the car to my shop, and they diagnosed as a faulty Ignition Control Module. Fast Forward, a day later, the car now has a hard start problem and throwing the same code, plus a P0102 Mass Airflow Sensor.
So my questions are:
1) Could a faulty ICM cause a single cylinder misfire, did they just replaced a random part? I would think a bad ICM would a multiple misfire considering on this car each coil controls 2 cylinders.
2) Are the two codes related? ie fix one, and the other would go away? or are they separate issues?
3) What could be wrong with my car?
This mechanic has been in my family for years, however, I'm not very pleased that a day later, my car seems to have more problems than before. Am I being too harsh?
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I recently had my 06 Hyundai Sonata 3.3 v6 brought into my local repair shop for a flex pipe replacement and ever since I got it back the check engine light has come on. I brought it back in, they said the 02 sensor needed replacing, replaced it free of charge, got the car back light went back on again and they said this time they put the wrong sensor in so they replaced it, now the light is coming back on again. It seems to go on for a day then go off for a day. I've only had it back for about 3 days so far.
Could this be perhaps the 02 sensor needs to break in or the computer needs time to reset or something like that? What could be causing this issue? Should I wait a couple more days before bringing it back in to have them.
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I have a 07 Sonata V6 that misses only when warmed up, runs fine when cold. code p0301 for cylinder one misfire, I have replaced the plug, coil and injector for cylinder one and still the same. idles and runs perfect when cold, dead miss on number one cylinder when warmed up.
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What this code refers to in my 06 sonata v6.
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Got a cel yesterday, got it checked out it read a P2096 fault code. The car runs fine, cleared the code it came back later in the day.
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I have a 2007 GLS. Within the past year I had about 4 or 5 difficult starts. Just recently I got a CEL with cod P0011. I replaced the OCV as that is the usual culprit. Within 6 miles of clearing the CEL, I am still getting the same CEL. I am wondering if the problem is either the wiring harness or the Camshaft Position Sensor.
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Sonata 07 CRDI 103 KW. Problem started yesterday when chek engine light came on, after a while it went of and back on. Today it went of and went to diagnosis. Diagnosis shoved fault code P0401 something with EGR.
What could cause the problem is it valve or something else?
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The code p0304 pop up last week, I have 50800 miles on my car, I unplug the spark plug and the ignition coil from the cylinder 4 and when i start the car I can there is a spark so the wire the spark plug and the ignition coil is good... I changed the fuel injecter with the one from cylinder 3 I cleared the code and it came back?
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2007 with 3.3L at 30k miles (bought new and with regular oil changes) starting throwing p0018's intermittently. No noticeable difference in way the car drives: idle seems fairly normal (only once recently felt the idle briefly stumble at a red light), fuel consumption regular, no power problems. There has been a engine tapping sound at low speeds only heard until the engine warms up after a couple of miles (I'm in Florida, temp is regular in the 70-80's), and the sound is not evident during the start-up, only while accelerating slowly.
On occasion, with hard acceleration, the "ESC 0ff" light comes on, not affected by the ESC off switch, and stays off after one key turn.
Brought to Hyundai dealer who, same day, requested doing an oil/filter change (Firestone had done a change 900 miles/3 months prior) claiming that a wrong oil filter could cause blocked oil galleys. They did the change (and also, no charge, repaired a valve cover leak) and 6 days later called to tell me the car was fine. No mention of the car having been low on oil or evidence of sludging. Also, no mention of whether or not the filter that was replaced was the incorrect filter for the vehicle. (I called Firestone and they claim they regular work with Hyundai to ensure proper filters are used). No mention of why they kept the car for an additional 5 days after the oil change before calling either (except for repairing the valve cover leak with a rocker cover gasket), and although their invoice indicated that they drove the car 5 miles, it was evident from the invoice that the mile in/miles out were the same. I did notice that there was about 2-3 gallons of fuel consumption though when I picked the car up.
6 miles from the dealer after pickup (2 key turns) CEL returns, with same code. I have now driven the car about 100 miles in the last 20 days with the CEl going off and on 4 times now, and each time the same code. I have never had the CEL come on (or go off) while driving, only at start-up. (Longest trip has been 10 miles, top speed 50mph, so a lot of key turns). The longest the CEL has stayed off was for a 30 mile span. The tapping sound mentioned above continues too.
I'm hesitating returning to the dealer. The 10 yr warranty might be a problem for a variety of reasons, and I realise finding the fix for this code could get expensive. But I do want to know what the dealer found out doing their GDS (and via eyes on inspection) and nothing was mentioned on the invoice besides the gasket leak. I'm especially concerned about the timing chain and tensioner.
Is it acceptable to make an appointment with the service manager to find out what they ruled out (and then take that information to a regular mechanic)? Given the problem is regularly intermittent over the last 100 miles, is it still possible that something might be seriously wrong with the engine and damage might be done to the engine by driving it? When I first brought the car to the dealer, they said they couldn't do anything with it because the CEL had gone out. Fortunately, within a mile from the dealer the CEL returned and they took it in. Presently, the light is out again.
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I have a 2006 sonata v6 3.3 that the speedometer is not working at all and is throwing the code p0708 (Transmission Range Sensor Circuit, high input)I have replaced the speed sensor that is under the intake air box and the problem remains the same..
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I've a 2006 sonata 3.3 with 100k miles on it and recently it started going to limp mode leaving me in 3rd gear only after scanning it I've found code p0743 (TCC selonoid open/short circuit) what to check from here or can share any wiring diagrams for this particular circuit I'm not sure where to start. where is the wiring harness for that is located ? is it in the oil pan ? and if I wanted to pull the selonoid itself to check would it be something I can do myself ?
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I have a 2010 Sanata with 69500 miles. I have been getting a P0456 code for some time. I have replaced the gas cap, purge valve and the close vent valve and filter. The code still wont fully erase and keeps tripping the MIL. I have done a smoke test and there are no visible signs of leaking anywhere. What this could be.
One question I have in live data the purge valve never seems to go below 2.7 percent even when the engine is off. it was like that be for and after replacing it.
Could this all be caused by a bad ECU? I was told that in a 2010 Sanata that the ECU is common to fail. When the MIL is on I have 3 of the same code one freeze frame one that triggers the light and one that says permanent. Every time I erase the codes all but the permanent go away. No matter how many times I hit erase or even disconnect the battery it will not go away but the light shuts off.
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