Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Dry Start / Rough Noise After New Filter?
Mar 4, 2015
Maybe I'm paranoid but after changing just the oil filter, the engine started to make nasty noises for 5 seconds. Could this be symptoms of a dry startup? If you didn't read the thread, I changed the oil filter only because the Bosch oil filter was making my engine noisy. I changed to OEM Hyundai filter. I even put engine oil in the filter before inserting it into the engine. Does dry startup happen to all cars after changing the oil filter?
I came across another thread this morning after encountering the same issue with a Bosch filter (the cloth one) It doesn't have a lip on the top/bottom and uses a fiber on both ends instead (Which I'm assuming is causing a dry start). I also encountered some nasty noise on startup after installing this filter for the first time (usually use WIX/Fram Extra Guard) as per availability. Bosch just has a different design (cloth on the ends compared to plastic lip). I suppose I'll be picking up a new filter after class today.
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I bought the car with it a bit over 3 months ago, that was the only problem and simply couldn't pass the deal. Even used car dealer didn't know what it was.
You can only hear it when you go over 50-55+ mph and it comes from cabin air filter area.
I already changed cabin air filter, the other day I replaced filter tray as well due to broken clips. Cleaned the whole area real good and still can't get it to stop whining.
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I've got a Sonata NF 3.3L I bought for my first car. Bought the car second hand with 119,000km's. Runs really well but in the last few months there has been a rough sound on acceleration. Sort of like a ticking noise. Doesn't matter if it's warmed up or not. At cruise speeds you can't hear it. What it could be? Ran some injector cleaner through it to no avail.
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I have a 2008 2.4L Sonata GLS with 96K mi. It is hard to start and idles rough. I cleaned some components and changed spark plugs. I disconnected the negative battery cable to see if it would reset and relearn settings. Took a 15 mi drive and read codes and P0016 was pending, it was still idling rough and acceleration was still under par. I then cleared the code. I purchased a new cam sensor and compared the Ohm readings between the old and new Cam position sensor. The Ohm readings were different by 50% so I assumed the old was indeed bad.
I installed the new sensor, repeated battery disconnect for 10 min, then restarted engine. It was still idling rough (maybe a little better) so I rechecked for codes. P0016 was still a pending code. I cleared the code and P0016 cam right back. The battery is good (no charging issues), timing chain is original (no noise). Is there a way to test the crank position sensor before buying a new one? I've also seen in posts the Oil Control Valve (OCV) affects timing and seems to be a problem for these vehicles, however I have not received that code (P0011). I can limp it to work but will have to take it in if I cannot solve this soon. If it ends up being a timing chain problem what ballpark price should I expect to pay to have it done.
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Where is the fuel tank air filter located? If you will look in your maint. log or owners manual for the four cyl. under emmissions control you will find the fuel tank air filter to be inspected at 15000 miles and changed at 30000 miles.
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So I've been getting that nasty, musky odor in my 2006 Sonata. I just purchased it used last December, so don't know when the cabin air filter was last changed. I had to do this with my Camry not too long ago, so I still have the spray to try on it if the filter isn't too old/dirty. The problem:
When I lowered the glovebox to get to the cabin air filter, one of the tabs was broken off. I figured no big deal. I pressed on the other three and they all broke off. My husband tried to get it out, but no luck. I'm afraid of damaging it if I try to pry it out and even if I succeed, do I have to do that every time I need to get to the filter? Where I would find a new housing?
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I am looking for an answer to changing my 2007 Sonata fuel tank air filter that is mentioned in my 30,000 mile maintenance schedule. Is this an easy change or does my car have to be taken to the dealer for this?
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I recently bought a 2006 Hyundai Sonata 3.3 V6. Had another issue related to the rear wheel, which I fixed. Today, I changed the oil filter on the car (along with the oil). I have heard this engine noise before, but with the cover off it appears a little louder. It's basically a ticking sound.
The engine uses no oil, and has no other leaks. It has some noise on startup for maybe 1-2 seconds (like a loud lifter or something, but it goes away in less than 2 seconds, and at the same time the oil light goes out). I changed the filter today because I was told that a leaky gasket could result in the Filter not retaining oil between starts, causes some minor knock for a few seconds.
But anyway, this other ticking noise seems to be regular, regardless of condition. I have heard some people say that some engine noise is normal for this engine, but how about this?
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My sister has a 2006 sonata V6 3.3, she got in 2007 with I think 20,000 miles on it, it has 180k. now. For the first few years she took it to the dealer for all the maintenance and oil changes. She has kept up with the oil changes and I think all the recalls were done.
There has been so slight noise at start up, but nothing I thought was too unusual for these kind of motors.
Yesterday she had an emergency with one of the kids, her faithful sonata fires up with an incredible amount of upper end noise, and it looked like it was burning oil. The engine was turned off immediately.
Her husband tried to start the car about a half hour later, he said it was hard to start, ran rough for moment, he revved it for a bit and it smoothed out running normally. No codes and no CEL. Oil level was good. Oil filter is a fram I think.
I started it a few hours later there was some lifter noise that quickly went away after a rev. Other than that it sounded normal and drove normally, normal exhaust from what we can tell.
There were no codes. and so far it has not done it again. But she is worried the engine is about to fail and she can't trust it with transporting her kids.
Was a timing issue? stuck valves? oil pressure? Oil Pressure to the cvvt (OCT?) maybe? They can't afford a new car right now, is this something easy to fix or is it a warning the motor is about done?
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2006 Sonata 3.3 V6 with 101,000 miles. At a cold start there is a loud whining noise coming from the engine on the passenger side. After the car warms up the whining goes away. The car has not had any noise before. It is progressively getting worse.
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I have a bizarre issue, once the car is running about 20 minutes, the seat belt icon on dash and passenger seat belt light (unoccupied) start flashing. Then the flashing become more like a flickering with a noise. At this time all power windows become sticky and operate under the same bop if you will as the seatbelt light. The doors the will not lock and the alarm will not work. Today it took me about 6 minutes just to close one window and i had to lock the car manually. After a few hours with the car being off, everything works fine again, then another 20 minutes of driving the issue reappears.
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I have a 2006 Hyundia Sonata. I idles really bad like you pulled 5 of the six plug wires off when you put it in gear. Once you start moving a couple miles an hour it is fine. It is also perfect in park or neutral, not a hint of a problem. Put it in drive or reverse and it almost stalls.
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After replacing fuel filter, pump relay, and air filter for good measure my 2002 f250 v10 gas engine still wont start. What to do?
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2007 Sonata V6 with 72K miles.
The car has developed a rough idle while in gear (i.e. when stopped at a stop light) and park (i.e. after I start the car).
It's starting to get a little annoying since I'm used to a very smooth idle.
I think this issue started within the last 2-3k miles.
Plugs were allegedly changed at 30k. A full tuneup was done at that time.
Wires are still original.
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Ok 34,000 miles here and twice in the last week while driving the ESC off light comes on and the button does not turn it on. Today when it happened the trans shifted a little rough once, like it missed a shift. If I turn off car and restart I am good. Spoke to dealer earlier in week and they want to reset my shift points or something again (several times).
Other than that the car runs great and my Kuhmo's are worn out, ughhh. Does this event get recorded and if so how long? No check engine lights.
2009 SE V6
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In idle and driving the car sounds rough as if a pulley was loose, after checking no pulley was loose but problem still persists. Tried turning wheel left n right n noise didn't go away or get worse its a constant noise, what it may be? Crankshaft pulley? Idler pulley?
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2007 Sonata V6. He's spent many hours and a good chunk of change at the dealership trying to get it fixed and nothing has worked yet. They honestly have no clue whats wrong which kinda scares me.
First off here is his problem. Occasionally when he starts the car it will idle very rough and struggles to accelerate to 30-40mph. When this happens he pulls over and shuts the car off for a few minutes then it will run fine again. When all of this happens there is no CEL or any light at all that flashes or comes on the dash.
Here is a list of things that have been replaced
Fuel pump
Throttle position sensor
Crank sensor
Plugs, wires and coil pack
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My 06 sonata ran fine for about 3 miles today and then started to sputter at stop signs until I got up to speed. Upon restarting it at work the check engine light came on. Took it to a parts store and put the tester on it.
Error codes p0300 (random misfire), p0022 (Intake camshaft position), p0018 Crankshaft position Bank 2 sensor A, and p0304,306 (misfires on cylinder 4 and 6). Taking it to a Hyundai dealer tomorrow? Is my motor turning into a brick?
Had a recent oil changes and have driven it a thousand miles or so since. Hoping my wife didn't put E85 in it or something when she filled it up but that was about 100 miles ago so I doubt it would be running fine that long.
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My 09 Sonata GLS has 50k miles on it. I bought it as a demo model with 9k on it (regret that) as new ... who knows how it was treated.
at 40k miles I noticed that in the morning when I was braking the car would feel like it was slipping out of gear momentarily and it was pretty rough. After a few minutes it would stop and I could continue on my way. The car is an automatic. I noticed it if I let the car decelerate enough that it dropped into first on its own, or if I used the brakes. I figured it must be due to the cold weather or something and was hoping it would clear up. This was only happening after 8 hours of non-use, overnight in the cold.
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I have 114,00 miles on my car. Plugs changed and decarbonization done at 99,000 as well as ECM reprogram or update ($99). Anyway, when my car sits overnight and starts it is getting a rough high idle until I feather the pedal or give it a minute or 2 and it is fine. It is warm now in the 70's and this just started. I had it to the dealer for oil change and they looked at it. There are no codes, they recommended changing the plugs and doing a decarb again. So I told them if I need plugs there is something wrong, Iridium OEM were installed.
Anyway, they suggested changing the throttle body since it has new sensors. I have have the TPS replaced before when engine was surging. They told me there are 2 sensors and one could be bad in throttle body. I don't get it, I use Hyundai air filter now and change every 15,000 miles and get oil changes regularly and they use Quaker State Synthetic blend. I am wondering if maybe I have a faulty PCV? I don't think that has been changed. Don't even know what the interval is. Previously I was told there was none, but I disagree.
What would cause me to get carbon build up like they keep telling me? I don't want trial and error and throw parts and money at it since there are no codes. I was going to drive it til it throws a code. I do highway driving in suburban area, mostly 65 mph. The car runs good, still the intermittent hard downshift when slowing down but nothing like before the tranny was replaced.
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My 2009 Sonata (4 Cyl.) has begun to downshift very rough while coming to a stop from about 20 mph. At first I thought it was the brakes, but now I'm convinced it's the transmission. Essentially it "jerks" a couple of times before stopping. It started happening at 30,000+ and only happens when transmission is still cold. Once I've driven for a bit it doesn't happen.
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