Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Drop Into Neutral While Driving
Mar 8, 2013
My 06 sonata drop into neutral while driving. Any clues as to why this would happen?
View 2 RepliesMy 06 sonata drop into neutral while driving. Any clues as to why this would happen?
View 2 Replies2011 Sonata GLS, 95,000 miles.
This just started yesterday. While driving, the RPMS suddenly drop off. Depressing the gas pedal doesn't command any power output, even if I floor it, the RPMS continue decreasing and there is absolutely no power. The only way to keep moving is to completely release the pedal and then depress it again.
The transmission has been serviced twice by me and shifts smoothly. Should I plug a scan tool in ?
Just replaced spark plugs in my 2007 Sonata V6 and noticed that my MPG has dropped from about 24 to 19! I used NGK Iridium plugs, and also changed the PCV valve at the same time. Mileage is 136,000. Could the internal computer (that does the MPG calculation) have gotten messed up by all of the disconnecting/unplugging that I had to do to get the surge tank off? (BTW - the engine runs great - just the MPG went way down).
View 10 RepliesSo I was visiting my brother yesterday and he was standing beside the car when I started it (in first gear, clutch disengaged). When I put the car in neutral and let the clutch out he asked if I had heard the noise it made. Makes it when the clutch is engaged (ie, pedal up) but not when engaged, so I can safely say it's not the throw-out, which would be noisy when clutch disengaged. Kind of a rattling noise, nothing really loud but is noticeable. Could this be something to do with the dreaded dual mass flywheel? Wouldn't imagine it has anything to do with the clutch disc as it would be held tight when the clutch is engaged.
View 2 RepliesMy 2009 Sonata, 2. 4 L engine, base model with automatic transmission started up and ran OK, but 20 minutes later when I parked the car and shifted towards Park the gears grinded in neutral, stopped grinding in Reverse, and then grinded again when I made it to Park, and I quickly turned off the engine.
When I restarted, it grinded in Park, OK past Reverse, Grinded in Neutral, and then OK in Drive. How serious this is, or if there is anything I can check out on my own?
So over the last few months I have been having more and more idling and power loss issues with my 2006 V6. When idling she intermittently will try to stall and the rpms will drop below 500 and then spike back up. A large percentage of the time I hear a loud whining sound while driving down the road and I notice that turning off the air conditioner will remove the sound at times.
***what I have done so far**
Idler Pulley
Belt tensioner
sepentine belt
cleaned MAF
Cleaned Throttle body
Throttle Position Sensor
Had car reprogrammed
So I pulled the belt off and checked all the pulleys and did notice some grittiness in the AC pulley (inner) and was wondering if this might be the issue. Attached is a video I uploaded, Video .....
I have an 06 sonata 4 cyl automatic.Today the transmission was slipping in first gear like the car was revving in neutral.Then after restarting the car it was completely normal. Code P0731 showed up.
View 1 RepliesI have a 09' 4cyl automatic engine with 54k.
About 30min ago when when I parked the shifter would not move past neutral into reverse and go into park. I can go from D into neutral or the next slot over for manual shifting. Naturally this causes a problem as you can't take the key out of the ignition if its not in park.
I took a screw driver and popped open the cap for the shift release button and used that to move it into park. Turned car off, back on, etc etc seemed fine. So when I tried moving it into reverse and it wouldn't budge. It instead would make a electronic click or snap coming form the steering column but more back toward the engine. Like more into the dash area but back in it. It would make this noise every time I attempted to move it but it wasn't a continuous sound. Just once with each jerk to the side to move it out of park.
So the car works fine except for this. I used it with the screw driver/shift release to unlock it and it drives fine. Goes into reverse and back in park but if I move it into neutral or drive it will not go back into reverse or park.
Transmission trouble on an 2006 F150 5.4 triton ... The problem I am having is when you are driving down the road once you hit 30 mph and it goes to shift into the its like it goes into neutral. It does that rill you slow back down to a lower speed then it shifts back down the transmission picks right back up till you get up to speed again, then it like it goes into neutral again. When I turn overdrive off it won't shift out of second gear. I have changed the valve body to the transmission to no success.
View 3 RepliesDriving up a slight hill unloaded yesterday at about 40mph constant pedal pressure the truck shifts into neutral...at least that's what it feels like. Revs go up and no power. When I take my foot off the pedal the transmission catches and drives fine. There is no bucking or hard shifting, just that slipping. What it could be? This problem arose suddenly....never had any problems prior. It is not an issue that has gotten worse over time...
View 14 Replies4R70W. This one is in my 99 F-150 with the 4.6. From what the previous owner told me this trans only has 13k miles on the rebuild and I believe him because the converter is bright blue and when it does shift right, the shifts are solid and fluid is very clean. Truck only has 98k miles on the body as well, so it's possible the truck did sit a while because my tires have a ton of tread on them, but they are dry rotted a bit (dated 2006 IIRC).
Issue: When the trans is cold (sat overnight) it will shift to neutral between the 2-3 shift for 1-3 seconds depending on outside temperature and then drop into gear. But it only does this for the first 30 seconds or so of driving, after that it shifts normal (although it does seem to hold gears a little longer than I would think it should on occasion and not upshift). I have only gotten it to do it once per cold start so it seems like once the trans gets any heat it's fine.
I was also thinking I was getting drain back and maybe it wasn't heat related so I dropped the pan, replaced the filter, fluid and pan seal (it had a small leak) and torqued the valve body. Two of the bolts were a little loose, but the rest were fine. Tightened them to spec and put it back together with no dice. Truck also gets pretty bad fuel mileage so I'm starting to think maybe there is some temp sensor screwing everything up?
Is it bad shifting from drive to neutral then back to drive going 40mph without pressing on the gas only coasting on a daily bases?
2008 Sonata GLS ... Automatic transmission ...
I have never had a car with automatic transmission that did not also have low gear or others besides overdrive. We are going to the Rockies and I would like to know how to get my car to use lower gears for accent and decent without over revving or constant gear shifts that I expect with the normal drive gear.
View 10 Replies3 days ago I bought 2006 sonata GL (I4) from a guy. He showed me his service record and he had his oil change right before he sold the car to me. However, I notice a fairly big oil drop on the ground after I drove for a while and parked. I tried three times and it all dropped.
One thing that I noticed was that the oil was dropping from the shield on the bottom of the car. So I looked into the engine and I have noticed bunch oil oil wet spot around the oil filter hole on the shield. I have Wix oil filter currently. Is the leak coming from the filter?
We have a 2009 Sonata with barely 50k miles - always garaged. It has been a great car but recently has come up with a couple of quirks.
I was driving last week and heard a loud "pop" behind me. Really loud..... I pulled over and found that the left rear window was missing!
I took the car to a local auto glass place and they found the missing window down in the door, I really though that it had fallen out and actually went back to the spot on the road where the noise happened and looked for it.
Anyway, the glass shop lifted the window back in place but had little interest in making the power part work again.
Now, I have had power windows fail on other cars before but they always got stuck, I have never had one "disappear". Would this be a safety issue that Hyundai might cover?
I bought this 06 GLS 3.3l v6 and owned it a week. 96k miles on it. The car started displaying "random misfire" codes two days before it died. I was on the way to drop it off to a shop to have it looked at then it shut down and would not restart. Got under the hood checked all fuses/relays and everything was fine. I tried turning over and it will not even turn over. Fuel pump does not come on. Thought maybe dead battery but I replaced that after towing it home. Tried with the same result. Removed starter and had it tested at two stores to verify from multiple sources. Starter is good. Left battery in car for two weeks with car off and battery was drained to 0 CCA and 0.9vlts left in it. I troubleshoot with a test light to see if I have something drawing on the battery more than normal. 30amp fuse labeled I/P(B+)2 was causing a draw. What circuit is this and what may be causing my dead in the water symptoms?
View 5 RepliesMy 07 is making a clicking noise while pushing on the gas, in cruise mode and while idling but doesn't click when I take my foot off the gas. It sounds like cards in bicycle spokes.
View 4 Replies2006 Sonata 3.3 liter engine with 123K miles. While driving between 30-40 mph, when I "feather" the gas pedal the car will shudder. It does not happen every time but it usually happens a couple times when it does. I see no change in rpm, transmission fluid is at a good level.
View 2 RepliesTonight while driving and accelerating fairly hard we began to hear a noise. The car sat parked for roughly 5 hours and then we began to drive it home (apx. 12-15 miles). About halfway through the drive the power steering went out and the battery light came on. The battery light would turn off and the drivers seatbelt light would come on even while it was buckled. These two lights alternated being on and off 2 times each. We heard something that sounded like a rock got kicked up into a wheel well. After getting the car home with no power steering we noticed the car had begun to run very hot. almost all the way up the gauge.
View 4 RepliesJust replaced the front struts last week and the upper control arms this morning. After putting everything back together I drove her around the block and noticed a horrible popping and squeaking like something was loose. I quickly limped her home and double checked that everything went back on properly and was tight. Car is the V6 with eibach's and about 103,000 miles I have drain and filled the tranny every 30-40k.
What this sound might be? It goes away once I am above about 10-15 mph and sounds like it is coming from the center underside of the car. I will also try to get a video of the sound while I am driving.
Car creaking - YouTube
My recently acquired '07 SE V6 has a little quirk when I drive it in the morning. Until it warms up completely, it seems to have a little surge while driving under light throttle. Tach doesn't jumo, and there is no CEL. Tranny was just flushed and serviced also. Once the car is at normal operating temp, all is well. I've searched the archives, and there are some suggestions about having a bad TPS, but my rpm fluctuations aren't that bad, and like I said, don't make the tach move. It also will sometimes hesitate just a hair when taking off for the first time after starting.
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