Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Dome Light / Clock And Remote Don't Work
Apr 6, 2012
I was attempting to change my trunk light to LED but when I finally finished it didn't work! I tried to re-open the trunk with my remote and that didn't work. I had to start the engine and open the trunk using the switch on the door.
When I started the car I saw the clock was not working as was the dome light.
I probably should have unhitched the (-) battery cable, but was too lazy.
I started going through the fusebox under the hood and now I'm going through the fusebox just inside the door.
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Just picked up an '07 5spd & noticed that the dome light doesn't work. no biggie, but then found that the dash lights don't work at all. When I turn the lights on the backlighting for the window switches comes on, as do all the running lights. The odometer & clock backlight properly dim out, but the dash & heat/fan control lights are dead. dimmer dial on the left panel has no effect. dash cluster fuse is good. If I can't get the dealer to fix it (only had it two days).
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Today while driving my clock/temp went out. After I parked, my remote lock/unlock was not working. At first I thought it was a battery issue in my key fob but then remembered the clock going out earlier while driving. Then it dawned on me that a fuse must have gone out. I checked to see which one was the clock fuse (third one over from the left on the top row, 10A) and saw that my add-a-fuse was in that exact slot that powers my interior LED's. I removed it and put in the original low profile 10A fuse to diagnose if this was the issue and the clock did not come back on. I tried several different fuses with no success. My first question is, what could have been damaged since evidently it is not a fuse? Second, could this be an issue that is not covered if I tell them an add-a-fuse was in there? Obviously I will just not mention it and remove it but what could be the issue here?
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I have a weird situation with my sf. I start the car normally put in gear then back to park and have radio on and when shutting the car off and removing the key from the ignition. Normally everything goes out and doors unlock, But the radio, clock and dome light stayed on even with the door opened for about 10 to 15 seconds. Then it shuts off completely and unlocks the doors as usual. Did unplug the battery for 1 minute to see if the BCM could be reset and restarted with no avail it keeps acting up. The only thing that I did yesterday was to install the front left rail cover which required some fiddling with the headliner and its dome and vanity lights.
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My dome light stays on and green when my doors are closed and the door button is pressed. They light up bright white and normal in use but don't completely turned off unless I unpress the door button...
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Short, the dome and interior light fuse keeps blowing. Car is 2009 hyundai sonata nf. Is the bcm computer gone? The fuse pops as soon as i put a fuse in the car. The car can be off or on..it doesn't matter.
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My wife had the single button Ford remote start installed by the dealer on her '09 F-150 about a month ago. Ever since, the dome light in the truck doesn't turn on when a door is opened, doors unlocked, etc., but I can still manually turn it on by moving the slider. Is this normal or did they screw something up on install? If it's normal, why?
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I bought my 2013 Sonata GLS back in October w/ 15k miles on it. For Christmas, I got an OEM Hyundai remote start (part # 3S056-ADU02). I took it to a local parts shop to get it installed. Turns out, I needed the jumper harness so I ordered that and they installed it today.
Now for the bad part - everything is installed, and the remote works fine. However, when I go to start the car, it stays started for 2 seconds, beeps, and cuts off and tries several times before giving up. The audio shop said to take it to the dealer to get it programmed, but I took it there and they said it would be $150 to program it. BUT they don't know if that's the problem or not. I've went through the forums and I see nothing about programming. I have found posts with problems similar to mine, but I can't find an answer. Why would it need programmed if everything else on the remote works? How can I make it stay started?
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I am trying to diagnosis a new issue on my 2006 V6 Sonata . I plugged in my code scanner which gave back MIL Status as ON, but there was no Check Engine - Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) lit up on the instrument cluster. It also showed that the EVAP, CAT and O2S was "Not Ready". When I checked the codes, I had P0031, P0037, P0051 and P0057, all of which are tied to Low Heater Circuits in the O2 sensors. When I checked the cables under the hood, the lower O2 sensor cable closest to the firewall was stuck onto exhaust pipe. It easily pulled free but I tried clearing the codes but the same 4 codes remained. I checked the resistance across the heater control and ground circuit, all 4 O2 sensors were around 10 ohms.
There seems to be several issues:
1) Why doesn't the instrument cluster register the MIL status as ON and display this Check Engine Light?
2) Why are the EVAP, CAT and O2 "Not Ready", I've heard that these are sometimes tied to disconnecting the battery. I've put almost 3K miles on the vehicle since the battery change.
3) OBD Codes P0031, P0037, P0051, P0057, I would expect all O2 sensors to fail at once, is there a fuse or other control that needs to be replaced or reset?
I am trying to get everything ready for emissions testing on this recently purchased 06 Sonata and I am thinking these issues will cause it to fail.
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On my '06 Sonata GL the third center brake light does not work all the time. I say all the time because it has a mind of its own; it works when it wants to. I have changed the bulb and it was working perfectly fine for months and months until recently when it suddenly began to act up.
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Yesterday i noticed that the right rear brake light and high mounted brake light does not work when i press brake only the left one work, although the right tail light work well when parking light is turned on. Is it a matter of fuse or wiring cut.
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In the process of selling my car and had my guy take my speakers out for the stock JBL ones but noticed after that my clock on the dash and dome lights aren't on at all. Is there a simple plug that cold have been missed?
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I have a 2000 Excursion 7.3 and having problems right now because my Door Chime and Dome light dont work when the doors are open. But for some odd reason, when the rear door is open, the dome lights work. The 4 doors doesnt work yet the rear door does
The reason i want this is because i want to install an alarm and the door signal is needed and it is suppose to be tapped at the dome/chime so when the door is opened, the alarm will sound so it is not just relying on the Shock sensor.
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I got Corolla 2012. Dome light fuse 10 amp is blowing off as soon as you put it in. Light bulbs checked seems it is not a problem. Maybe relay?
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As the title says.
* Remote won't work
* Handle above license plate won't work
* Lever in front door by the gas cap lever won't work
* Only thing that works are physically putting the key in the trunk opener and also emergency latch inside the trunk
What gives?
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Just purchased the 2012 GLS this past Saturday and everything is good except for one thing. My dome light even in the "door" position stays on after starting the car and driving. I have to manually switch it to off to turn the interior light off, which is annoying. I called the dealership today and they had no prior experience with that problem. BTW, I did have a sunroof installed.
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The clock in my 2006 Phaeton is not working. The time is correctly set in the Settings on the electronic display, but the analogue clock does not move nor light up when the internal lights are on. I was wondering if the clock had its own fuse, but there is no mention of a separate fuse for the clock in the manual. So I don't know which fuse i would need to check or what else might be causing the problem.
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3 weeks ago, I purchased a 2014 Prius model 4 and had a remote starter installed at the dealer. So far, the car has been at the dealer 3 times and they cannot figure out why the remote start will not work. When you press the lock button twice then the 3rd time for 3 seconds, the lights flash and you can watch as the dash lights begin to come on, then everything shuts down. The dealer contacted Toyota because this is all a warranty issue and was instructed to reprogram the computer which they did. After doing so they received an error code that a door, hood or trunk was open, but none were. They checked all the door, hood and trunk latch electronics and all were fine. Personally, I feel I must have received a faulty remote starter, but Toyota so far seems unwilling to replace it.
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I have an 2009 3.3L V6 Sonata with just over 50k miles on it. Just under a week ago what seems like about half of the electronics quit working.
Here is a list of all things i could think of checking to see if they work..
Not working: power windows (up and down), power locks (Lock and unlock), trunk release, wipers on mist or intermittent, automatic headlight setting, tail lights.
Working: Sunroof, turn singles, headlights, brights, brake lights, power mirrors, radio, AC, fan, wipers, windshield washer, Gas cap cover release
Given that all the functions of the remote are not working i don't know if that works either.
I have tried checking all the related fuses, checking the relays, disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes and have had no success finding an issue. What else to check?
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I have a 2006 Sonata. The trunk will not open with remote, latch or key. What do I do? There isnt a vallet switch.
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I have Sonata 06 3.3L V6, vacuum getting confirmed code p0171 system too lean bank 1,and pending faults are both lean and rich on both banks and also at idle. i check vacuum leaks but no luck, one thing I observed when I drove car at high speed only 3000 rpm or above LTFT 1 corrected to 0. I am using torque app.
I can not open my trunk through remote key, it is opening with driver side switch, trunk lid latch is unlocked position, remote key is working fine with doors.?
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