Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Creaky Sounds When Hit A Bump On Passenger Front Corner
Feb 1, 2014
How do I diagnose if I have an upper control arm problem?? hmr 1979 did a great job of reporting in great detail with pics, on how to replace a control arm.
My car is making creaky, creaky, sounds when I hit a bump on the passenger front corner. I have been thinking that the "top hat" mount to the strut was bad, but now hmr 1979 has me thinking that my upper control arm has a bad bushing. My front struts are originals with 91K on the odo. However, the struts still seem to perform well. Is there any sure fire way to learn if I have a bad bushing on the upper control arm??
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I have a front end noise when I go over a speed bump or hit a pot hole. It is kind of a crunching nise like something needs grease.
The Hyundai dealer charged me $54 to diagnose the problem and told me I needed both upper control arms replaced to the tune. They did force some grease in the bushings.
The car only has 63000 miles.
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I have a 07 Ranger and the passenger door sounds loose when I hit any bump. Where should I start to make any adjustments on the door?
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Noticed after long trips of a couple hours, the Prius rattles and creaks even when cruising in a parking lot at 5mph. I think it's kinda funny. That is, unless it doesn't happen to anyone else and there's actually something wrong with my car.
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After a short drive this evening (5 miles) in HV mode city 0-48mph driving I noticed a smell from the passenger front corner of the car. I went under the hood and looked and sniffed around. It is somewhere on the passenger side under the hood, but I did not see any fluids low or overflowing, and the oil looked normal. I just had my 15,000 mile service on Friday and only put on a few hundred miles since. I did not see anything dead in the radiator or under the car, and it is parking in a garage mostly.
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I just bought a 2006 Sonata GLS V6 for my daughter to commute back and forth to college.
The car rides like a dream and has plenty of pep, but I had this annoying squeak when you go over bumps. It looks like the upper strut mount has a lot of play in it when you shake the car up and down, so I ordered 2 from Rock Auto. the left side feels and looks solid.
But I just read an article on the upper control arm replacement and wonder if that not my real problem here.
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I have a 2009 Sonata Limited. The passenger side front window has stopped working. Neither switch works. How to troubleshoot?
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For years my wife has complained about the front passenger seat in my 06 Sonata. She says the seat bottom feels like it is tipped forward and too low.
Have you found a remedy for this?
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The little piece that flips when you lock the doors (you know what I mean, it is orange when it's open) has been acting up on my 06 Sonata. If you move it by hand it's fine (the door locks and unlocks) but when you use the fob and lock or unlock the doors, sometimes this one just doesn't move.
It looks like it wants to go, but doesn't. If you press lock and unlock again, it opens. on occasion.
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So I just replaced the front rotors and brake pads on my 06 Sonata. Before I replaced them, the front passenger side had a clicking sound coming from it when I turned. So I thought this whole time that I needed a new CV joint. But after I replaced the rotors and pads I took it for a test drive and I noticed that the clicking noise was gone! So I guess my question is, can bad brake pads and rotors cause a clicking sound when turning?
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The front passenger window on my 2007 Sonata has always been sluggish. Recently it broke (I heard something snap) when I tried to roll it down on a cold day. I decided I want to take a shot at fixing it myself before bringing it in to the mechanic. I've made some progress but I'm having trouble removing the inner door panel where the window regulator mechanism is.
The window can be pushed down or pulled up by hand fairly easily, but there's enough resistance (for now) to hold it in place and keep it from just dropping down into the door.
I removed the main door panel without any problems. The window regulator cables and mechanism are behind a second panel that I'm having trouble removing and I can see through the holes in the inner panel that the window is still attached to the two "lifters".
I haven't been able to find a lot of detailed instructions for this step. I've been following the steps outlined in some this youtube video [URL] ...., but there seems to be something I'm missing when I try to get the panel off.
I have freed the black adhesive around the edge of the panel, and I've removed all the main bolts on the inside of the door, the 3 bolts at the door latch, detached the inner door handle and removed the outer door handle, but I still can't get much movement in the panel to free it. I'm hesitant to tug or pry the panel too hard because I don't want to bend the metal at all and ruin the fit with the door.
Is there any trick to loosening the panel so that it comes out and I can get behind it? Do I need to slide or rotate it, or is it held by any clips similar to the ones that held the main door panel? Most of the resistance seems to be coming from the area to the right of the speaker (between the speaker and where the inside handle to close the door would be). I can try to provide more details if necessary.
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At first the passenger side front parking light would randomly not turn on until you gave the light assembly a hard tap. Now I am having the same problem with the driver side low beam light. I checked the harness connector and it clicks firmly into place. So, I am guessing there's something not grounded properly somewhere on the light assembly. I'm hoping that a light film of dielectric grease will work but I can't tell where to put it.
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When driving I hear, not feel, a slight thumping noise that if I had to guess would say is coming from the passenger side front. When I let off the gas the noise becmes more prominent and you can feel the thumping. Also when I apply the brakes heavily the sound/feel goes back to the same as if I was driving. I'm thinking CV joint/axles or spindle bearings, but I cant understand why the condition is at it's worst when I'm coasting. Has this "noise while coasting" problem.
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Looking for a suspension diagram that can be shared for this model? I need to fix the squeaking noise from front passenger side and would like to have an overview pic of the suspension system.
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2007 Sonata SE, 74,000 miles
Just took the car in for brake service (not the dealership) because of what I was convinced was a brake pad sensor warning sound - something I've heard with other cars I've had, and been correct about. However, the tech said the pads were fine.
The sound is a high pitched squeal, intermittent, coming from the passenger front wheel. It can be heard when coasting at moderate speed (30 mph or so), not so much when accelerating, and especially when turning left. It got worse today, with a low grinding sound at moderately slow braking speed that started after about two hours of start and stop driving (house hunting). The car has needed a couple re-alignments and will have to get checked for possible camber? adjustment (rear tires wore badly on outside edges, far less pronounced on front tires). Car has tendency to pull to the right.
Any thoughts on a main culprit here for the squealing-grinding noise or about the possible inter-relatedness of symptoms.
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Developed a very annoying plastic creek/ tapping sounds from the passenger side C pillar. Almost sounds like it coming from between the c pillar and the rear window, but can't be sure. It's definitely trim related and not suspension. Also how difficult it would it be to remove the C pillar Plastic cover?
Lastly, how many have had success in getting rattles/ squeaks worked out after the 1 year adjustment warranty? I did mention that on a service visit when it showed up right before the warranty expired, but it was very warm that day and the rattle went away.
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Just installed them a few weeks ago, at first I wasn't too low, now that I am about 24.4 to the fender, the right passenger side creaks. At low speed over bumps, dink, dink dink..... and when i turn the wheel almost all the way to the side go up or over a curb it goes dink and then when i straighten it , it dinks again> Got the installing new suspension kit from dbc, and new ball joints on both sides. Only one side squeaks!
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Started out clunk sound only if going over speed bump, or bumpy road. Now more often with slightest road bumps.
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Just purchased a 2000 V10 Limited with 117000 miles on it. Absolutely love it....just have a noise that is bugging the crap out of me. My husband doesn't think it is a big deal, but I would love to find out what it is without dropping 60 bucks at the dealer.
Whenever I turn a corner that is a tad bumpy it makes a bump type sound. It usually happens only when one side is going over the bump. It is pretty loud. IT will happen also when I am going down my dirt road without turning but when one tire goes over a bump the truck kind of shifts from side to side and the sound starts.
We have thought it could be the shocks or maybe the springs making that kind of sound. My husband is clueless and he knows alot about vehicles. I just hope my description wasn't too vague.
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How to check the stabilizer links. 05 Taurus, 4 sedan, 83K miles. Have a distinct noise coming from the front passenger side when going over a bump. Just checked the following and here's what I've found: Checked the ball joint - no play whatsoever, it looks good under the "pry bar" test under the control arm. Tie rod end is tight- no play at all. Strut mounts seem fine. The stabilizer link looks fine - no rust, tears, etc. But I can easily, by hand, twist it freely. However, prying up on the stabilizer bar doesn't seem to show any play on the link itself. Should these be tight (at the joint) to the point where you need some "muscle" to turn them ?? I'm not sure what's left to check.
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2009 Hyundai Sonata automatic: When downshifting from 4th to 3rd it feels like I hit a bump, or like I just hit the brakes hard for a second.
What could it be? It's most noticeable when the car is cold. I have 82k miles on it, so it's still in the "power train warranty".
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