Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Cranks Sometimes Longer Than Normal And Sputters A Bit Before Fully Starting
Apr 28, 2016
I have a 2009 Hyundai Sonata GLS 4 Cylinder with roughly 100k miles. The car runs great, shifts great, drives smooth. The only issue I have is starting the vehicle. When turning the key the car cranks sometimes longer than normal and sputters a bit before fully starting. I feel somewhat of a jolt like the engine is firing but its not what I call smooth. The other day it cranked longer than normal started for 1/2 a second then died and I had to turn the key again to start. I have already replaced the spark plugs and air filters. A while back we had the fuel filter/pump replaced but I'm not sure what else to do considering that the car runs fine otherwise. I read something about an EGR valve and maybe it's a vacuum hose?...
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I have a 2004 Dodge Dakota 2WD manual trans with 160K racked up. In the morning it does not like to start right away. I put the clutch down, key in the ignition, turn it to engage the electricity, say a prayer and turn. When it doesn't start nothing happens. No sounds. Nothing. If I hold the key fully turned and wait, sometimes much longer than 60 seconds, it starts and sounds just fine. Once it is running for some time I can turn it off and turn it back on again without hesitation. In colder weather it takes much longer to start.
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I have a 2006 Nissan Altima with 142K miles. It is not starting right away. It coughs/sputters anywhere from 3 seconds to 10 seconds before turning over and starting. What the issue is?
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I just bought a 2010 Sonata. It runs just fine while running and about half of the time while I'm idling. The other half of the time I can feel my engine sputter. At first it wasn't all that bad but it has gotten worse lately. What could be causing this?
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I have a 2010 Sanata with 69500 miles. I have been getting a P0456 code for some time. I have replaced the gas cap, purge valve and the close vent valve and filter. The code still wont fully erase and keeps tripping the MIL. I have done a smoke test and there are no visible signs of leaking anywhere. What this could be.
One question I have in live data the purge valve never seems to go below 2.7 percent even when the engine is off. it was like that be for and after replacing it.
Could this all be caused by a bad ECU? I was told that in a 2010 Sanata that the ECU is common to fail. When the MIL is on I have 3 of the same code one freeze frame one that triggers the light and one that says permanent. Every time I erase the codes all but the permanent go away. No matter how many times I hit erase or even disconnect the battery it will not go away but the light shuts off.
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My 2006 Sonata LX cranks and sometimes starts. Usually it doesn't. I checked the spark plugs for a spark, which it has.
I attached a noid light to the fuel injector, and it flashes. I sprayed starter fluid into the throttle and the car starts and stays running.
I ran a computer diagnostic on it and it reads this: ""Monitor camshaft position in the full retard condition or during CWT control. Camshaft switching out of 109 to 141 degrees in full retard position, 70 to 140 degrees CRK during CWT control."
I'm not mechanically inclined, but what to do up to now. Now I'm at a complete loss as to what is wrong or what to do next.
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This is my son's car. He said it started losing power and then finally just died on the side of the road. The first thing I thought of was change the fuel filter. changed it yesterday and it still won't start (cranks with no problem). I used my code scanner on it and it showed three codes: P0300 / P0301 / P0305. I really don't think it's spark plugs or plug wires.
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Well, after owning 4 other VW's, this one has left me "stranded". I bought my 2012 Autobahn GTI back in September and it had been absolutely problem free up until now. I have the APR flash and Carbonio intake as my only modifications for reference.
I drove over to my girlfriend's house yesterday around 5:30pm, had no issues or anything up until this point. I get into my car around 10:30pm, ready to go home and push the starter. The car cranks up, then sputters out. This has actually happened once or twice before when I pushed the starter too quickly, so I chalked it up to that. I push the starter again, I get a click, and then nothing. A ton of warning lights come on, I get a couple warning messages come up, one about an error with the ESC, and one about the adaptive lighting system. The car's fan turns on, as if the car was running.
I try to start the car a few more times without any luck, and keep getting the same warning messages. I then got out of the car, locked the doors and let the car go to sleep. I wait 15 minutes and try starting the car again, still can't start. At this point I'm pretty much ready to throw in the towel, but I decided to disconnect the battery for a few minutes, hoping that when I reconnect I'll be able to start it. It still didn't work. At this point I know I'm going to have to take it to the dealer, so I try to put the car back into stock mode. I couldn't even do that.
I ended up having to call roadside assistance. To add to my frustration, I requested a flat bed and instead a front-wheel lift one came. I had my car towed to the dealer, had my gf follow the tow truck to the dealer and filled out the night drop off form and left my key.
This morning I call the service department, trying to inquire about my car and the service adviser tells me "your car has severe electrical issues and we are not going to be able to diagnose them today." He asked me if I had any performance software on the car, and I tell him that this is my 5th VW that I've owned, and that every one has had the same APR software on it. I had my car flashed back in September or October, and that I've never had an issue with it with any car. The service adviser then tells me that this is going to have to go to his manager to write off on it if they determine this is caused by my flash or not.
Now I'm stuck without a car, at least through Monday. I asked for a service loaner and they told me they had none and that since they are closed on Sunday, the soonest I might be able to get one is Monday. I just started a new job and have no vacation time saved up, so the timing of this is certainly not ideal. I know that I assumed responsibility by getting the flash, but I've got my fingers and toes crossed that they don't point the blame on the flash and make me pay out of pocket for this.
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My 03 GTI 1.8 is having start issues. It cranks up fine, but it sputters to a start. It doesn't idle high and fall down to the 850 mark like normal, it just lugs itself into low idle. I have to then throttle it until it stops sputtering and I have a smooth rev. Then after that, the car runs fine. I can stop it and start it up again fine when it's warmed up. I have checked multiple things already.
-The Ignition coils are in excellent condition
-Spark plugs are normal, but not exactly perfect
-Fuel pump works fine
-Battery was tested and is clean and good
-Throttle Body is clean (at least to the eye, Im cleaning it next)
-Oil was changed when I changed the sensor along with filter.
I should mention I changed the crankshaft position sensor a month ago. The block at least from under the car is filthy, but I don't know if that affects anything.
I had a check engine light, so I got its codes read (I'm out rn, but when I get home I can show you) and decided to just take it to a shop. When I took it, the light went away, decided to start as normal, and the shop just charged a huge fee for the diagnostic and nothing was fixed. I really need to know what to do with this, I daily it every day and its starting to bother me a lot now.
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2009 Sonata V6. It was working fine from the last 10 months and all of a sudden, from couple of days it not behaving as usual.
It cranks some times and will start and some times it wont even crank just silent. (However all my dash lights, headlights sterio work fine).
But to my surprise, it started very fine this morning. So not sure, what the problem would be.
My car has 57000Kms and its still in warranty, so, if there is some thing wrong with the alternator, starter motor. will the warranty cover for those parts.
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I've never had a CVT before and am wondering if this is normal...
I have to back out of my driveway at my house. After I back out, I stop, put the car in drive. If I let go of the brake the car starts to move but slow at first then it kicks in like it was halfway in drive and completing the "shift" (I realize CVTs don't 'shift' but I can't think of a better way to put it). It feels like it's taking a few seconds to go fully into Drive when first shifted into it.
The car has 53,500 miles on it and had the 50,000 miles transmission fluid change. Is this behavior normal?
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I have an 08 2.4L Sonata with 95000mi. When turning the ignition it will crank and sound like its about to start but won't. I was able to get it to start by pushing the gas pedal a bit when it sounds like it wanted to start. Once started, it ran rough and would stall unless I revved it above 1500 RPM. Still sounded like it occasionally miss fired.
I kept it revved until it reached normal operating temp. When I took my foot slowly off the gas, rpm dropped to about 500-600 and it seemed to pulse . I think engine was raising throttle to keep from stalling. It stalls if I try to put in gear without pressing on gas to raise throttle.
The spark plugs were changed at about 70K mikes. I have not read any codes as the car is stuck in the driveway. Could it be a vacuum leak? I know the Entourages have air intake hose leaks that cause rough idle but with a 6 cyl it still runs. Fuel pump problem?
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I have a 2006 V6 Sonata that takes its time to get started. It will crank great, but after a few seconds of trying and no starting, I turn the key to the off position and try it again. Most of the time the car will start on the second attempt, but sometimes it requires a third attempt. Here are the facts as I have observed them:
-I cannot hear the fuel pump engage until a split second before the car actually starts.
-There are no RPMs until the fuel pump engages and the car starts.
-The engine runs really rough for a second while the car initially starts and runs.
-When the car is running, it's really smooth. Like, brand new car smooth.
-This issue happens no matter the time of the day or the temperature of the engine.
-The fuse for the fuel pump is fine.
-The fuel pump relay is fine. I know this because I swapped the horn relay with the fuel pump relay and nothing changed with the starting issue and the horn still worked great.
-A friend used a jumper in the fuel pump relay to see if the fuel pump would engage and it did.
-Have not used a fuel pressure gauge as we did not have one on hand.
Is there anything else to check besides using the fuel pressure gauge? Have you run into this same issue? If so, what was the cure? I'm averaging about 20 MPG with mostly city driving. Is that normal for the 2006 V6?
Recent work included new spark plugs, a new gasket somewhere because it was weeping oil there (I think it was the part of the engine that you have to remove in order to get to a couple of the plugs), and the idler pulley thingy and it's belt.
The starting issue started before I got this work done. I took it to a repair shop because of the starting issue and they found these other problems. The funny thing is, they claim that the car started perfectly fine for them every time, which is pretty hard to believe. When I picked the car up from the shop, I tried starting it, it didn't start, but the mechanic was right there to see my issue first hand.
My thinking is that the fuel pump is fine because when it does finally start, the engine runs smooth as silk. I love how when I'm going 80 MPH, just a slight amount of pressure on the gas pedal and I'm up to a hundred in no time flat. I love this Hyundai V6. Now if I can just get it starting normally.
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My 2008 Sonata finally let me down after 4-1/2 years of flawless service. Turned the key, it cranks fine, but won't start. I think it's the fuel pump. It has 63,000 miles now so the bumper-to-bimper warranty is over. Is the fuel pump (if that's it) covered by the 100,000 mile drive train warranty? I checked fuses and they are all fine. I don't know if there is a fuel cutoff switch. It might just be the pump relay...but I want to have it towed, and the choice is dealer or my regular mechanic.
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I have a 1999 f150 5.4L that will drive normal and all of a sudden it will spit and sputter, the CEL comes on for a second or two, then it’s all over and its back to running normal. I changed the plugs, and fuel filter and it still does it periodically. Vacuum leak?
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I notice a light ticking noise coming from the front of the engine. It sounds like it's coming from the puppies and not inside the engine. The dealer says it's normal. Is this normal for these cars. Mine is a 2008 v6 With 80k.
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My wife's 09 Sonata SE AUTO 4-cycl.. I drove it last weekend and discovered a strange noise that can be heard after driving for a while at normal local road speeds.
The sound is like a combination of a whine and something that sounds like radio static. It can be heard very easily with the radio off and stopped at a red light. However, this sound also exist while the car is in motion. It becomes more difficult to hear as the road noise increase.
When I shift from D to N while stopped or driving, the noise immediately goes away. When I shift back to D, it sometimes comes back.
The consistent pattern seems to be that the noise will occur after having driven for a while at a consistent speed of at least 30-40mph. If I drive around the neighborhood for a while at low speeds and then stop, the noise will not be there.
I have not made effort to hear it from the outside of the car.
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My daughters 2010 Sonata has a occasional problem that is very disturbing. When she is slowly pulling into a a parking spot or into her garage, the car will make a lurch forward. Just a quick acceleration and then back to normal. So far she hasn't damaged anything but its just a matter of time. She has taken it to a neighborhood independent garage.
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My grandfather recently died, and left me his 1999 Ford Windstar. He's had it since it was brand new, and as of today it has 249k miles on it...
It hadn't been driven for about a year since he was sick for quite a while. I took it for a 30 mile drive to see what kind of condition it was in. Once I jump started it, the CEL was on. Things I noticed while driving on the city streets:
- Van takes longer than normal to accelerate
- Really loud - I'm wondering if something is up with the muffler
Once I hopped on the highway and hit speeds in excess of 65 MPH, the "O/D OFF" light began flashing. The van wasn't driving any differently than before - at least I didn't notice anything. After another 5 or so minutes, the CEL began flashing. Again, the van wasn't driving any differently than before.
The one thing that was prevalent at this high speed also, was how long it took to accelerate. I really had to floor it to get it to go from 60 to 70. I took it to the auto zone by my house (which was the plan all along) and pulled the following codes from it:
-P0171
-P0443
-P1401
I wasn't able to get a read on the Tranny codes since they didn't have a scanner for that. Where should I start? Here's what I know so far:
-As for the 0171 code, respectable people on this forum say it most likely is due to a Vacuum leak. Any places in particular I should look?
-The 1401 code seems to point to either a bad DPFE Sensor and/or Carbon buildup in the EGR sensor/valve.
-Don't know anything about the 0443 code.
-I didn't get any codes relating to the misfiring that took place on the highway. Not really sure what that means.
I do a big DIY when it comes to doing work on my vehicles. A good tutorial and pics/videos and I'm off to the races. I plan on doing a lot of the work myself, unless it will start to require specialty tools and the like.
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Usually in the morning after starting the car, when I put the car into reverse the car stalls. I start it up again and it works fine. It has been doing this for a few months. When I went to get oil change they said I needed to replace battery so I did. Problem is still there. It has done this twice when I try to take off from a red light. I have no check engine lights either. My car has 105,000 miles but cannot really afford to buy a new car at the moment.
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My silverado no longer starts and the fuel gauge no longer reads. so far figured out that there is no power to the fuel pump and sending unit. Looking for an engine wiring diagram for this truck with the 6.0 engine?
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