Woke up to go to class, car cranked normally but just won't start up. I put gas in it from our lawnmower shed (regular unleaded) but I know it wasn't that empty... what gives? It's making the normal noise it does when you go to start the engine but it just won't stay running/turn over?
View 17 RepliesAbout a month ago, fuel pump was replaced by repair shop due to car will not start at all. Car seems to be working fine after the work done for about 3 weeks. One day of last week, car will not start immediately, it had to be cranked a couple times so it can start. It happens all the time when i leave the car off more than 5-10 minutes. If I stop the car and start right after, it starts quickly. Anyway I called the same repair shop, they told me battery may be started dying. I measured Voltage on the battery during cranking it goes down to 11V and goes back up to 12.9V after car starts. I have replaced the battery with the new one for precautionary.That did not fix the problem.
View 4 RepliesI had a problem recently with my '11 SE. It only did it once and hasn't done it since. I pushed the START button and the engine cranked over but it never started. I let it crank for about 5 seconds before I pushed the switch again to make it stop. The next time I pushed the START button the engine started.
View 5 RepliesAfter a long hour working day, B6 could not start in company's parking lot. The temperature is not cold, the battery is not dead, has plenty gas in the tank. The starter cranked but couldn't start the engine. What should I try? Change the starter? if i need parts, I will grab from store and try to fix it in parking lot. if not, I have to tow it to dealer tomorrow.
View 13 RepliesHad an odd situation earlier tonight. The starter cranked normally but the engine wouldn't actually start. I let it go for 10 seconds and hit the button again to make it stop in order to protect the battery. A few seconds later, I tried and it fired right up without a hitch. The MIL never came on so no codes most likely.
Car has 17k on it. 2013 2.0
Went to start the wife's car this afternoon and it wouldn't turn over. Battery was fine and it cranked but would no start. I pulled one of the plugs to check for spark and i had spark on that plug.
It pretty much turned over when I told the wife to turn the key. I put the plug back in and it started right up. So what the heck was the deal here. I drove it around the block, restarted a couple times and all seems fine.
Same gas that was in there for the last several days. Was a little colder this morning than it has been but nothing extreme. The car was last driven 2 days ago, so it isn't like it sat for a long period. Maybe some water in the gas made its way into the lines and finally reared its ugly head?
From my research, the fuel filter appears to be part of the fuel pump and isn't normally serviced. What it could have been and what to check if and when this happens again? The local Autozone will rent me a fuel pressure tester but unless it happens again, I don't think its worth renting it now that its running again.
I got this problem for 10 days and by the time to take my car to the auto shop it turned out that now I cannot start the engine at all. I started to hear that the starter is still running for a second or two after I switch on the engine but I was busy and was not able to leave the car for a check. Well, this morning the car gave up and refused to start at all.
Before I blame the starter I was thinking about the ignition lock although I didn't noticed anything problematic with it. I think that the battery is OK since I didn't lost the radio and I still can operate the windows as well.
Got in the car today, 2002 SC430, turned the key, car cranked and cranked but no start. I'm guessing I'm not getting fuel. How do I troubleshoot?
View 6 RepliesMy 1992 buick regal 3.8l initially cranked fine but did not start. I went to crank again and starter turned very slowly and finally just clicked got new battery and still same slow finally jumped it and got it to somehow start took it to shop they went to replace starter and told me that a weight had fallen off my flywheel/flexplate and lodged in starter so i agreed to let them replace flywheel starter 2 days later still in shop does this sound reasonable?
View 12 RepliesCame out of the building center yesterday after about ten minutes, and the van wouldn't start. Just cranked and cranked.
So I fired up Torque Pro and the HPO only got to 156.8psi. The idiot gauge came up to where it should be.
The dipstick looks good. I unhooked the ICP sensor and still no go. Reconnected.....
So I called a tow... after It cooled down.(75*F water) I tried again and got up to 295psi, but still not enough to start.
At this point I know I have recent injectors and updated Plug& pipe on the passenger side, a new IPR, and (another) new STC fitting.
I will get the air to it, and investigate, but at this point,I am leaning towards the Dummy Plug on the drivers side. Or maybe I am just hopeful because the internet says that one can remove the VC on that side fairly easily.....(Van Body)
However I did recently(2K miles/??) have the engine apart to get at the HPOP and STC leak issue I had. In the event of a possible stuck IPR- what would be the symptoms during an air test? No change with power applied? Or should I just remove and inspect?
Went to start my truck this morning and when I turned it over it barely cranked once. I cleaned the connections on the battery and checked fuses, everything checks out fine. I am not very familiar with Ford trucks. The check engine light doesn't come on until after I try to turn it over.
View 6 RepliesThis morning was cold. Went to start and it slowly cranked but no start. Tried jumping but again slow crank and no start. Thinking battery charged and tested and it's fully charged. Reinstalled and nothing.
No click.
No crank.
Nothing.
So thinking now. Start with relay.
Then starter solenoid.
Then starter?
Could it be a column thing? Not fully in park or should I try in neutral? Have another thread needing a fuse diagram for inside and the box under the hood.
I just bought a 2002 Jetta 2.0L with automatic trans and about 98000 miles on the odometer.It drove fine on a short test drive. It drove fine on a 45 min drive home after which I parked it for a short while (about an 60-90 mins.) Then I tried to restart it . It cranked fine but would not start. After 3 or 4 attempts I let it rest for a min and then it started. And the CEL came on.
This was a few days ago. Today I finally got a chance to scan it with these results:
VCDS Version: Release 15.7.3 Running on Windows 7 x86
[URL] .....
Address 01: Engine Labels: 06A-906-032-AVH.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 06A 906 032 FR
Component and/or Version: 2.0l R4/2V G 4070
Software Coding: 00003
[Code] ....
I'm new to MK4's and I'm at a bit of a loss as to where to start. It looks to me like there's a problem with both the fuel pump relay and the crank sensor. But what to make of all the short to ground codes. Could they be caused by a bad fuel pump relay?
This morning I got to the bottom of my driveway and realized I forgot my tea. Turned off the engine and walked up to the house for the tea. When I turned over the engine it didn't start but cranked. Sputtered on the second attempt and died. Started on the third attempt, sputtered and then smoothed out and all was normal. What the heck goes on here? This happens to varying degrees maybe 6 or 7 times a year.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2001 ford F150 with a 5.4 2WD, with a starting problem. Last Friday I went to leave work the truck cranked but did not start, turned the key off and tried again same thing, on the third try it started. Drove it home 30 miles with one stop on the way, restarted just fine. At home in the driveway I restarted it 5 times without a problem so I was thinking it was just a glitch. Did not drive the truck all weekend thinking the problem was fixed.
Monday morning leave for work and everything was fine, went to start the truck in the afternoon and the same problem as listed above (3 or 4 tries and it started). It home again in the driveway restarts every time. I do not have any check engine light on but I thought I would still plug in my code reader NO CODE. Where to start troubling shooting this problem?
This morning I went out to start my truck. It cranked for about 15 seconds with no start. I set my TorquePro to monitor the IPR% and cranked again for about 10 seconds. The IPR% was about 83.7% with no start again. I went inside and searched for "crank no start" threads to see what else I needed to look at. I went back out and added HPOP to the TorquePro. Cranked for about 5 seconds, thinking I would get no start again, but it fired up. After start I was getting about 27% on the IPR and abour 537 on the HPOP. Drove to work with no problem.
Could this just be a fluke, or do I need to be concerned about it? I have a road trip coming up to Tennessee on Thursday. I did standpipes, dummy plugs, STC fittings, EGR delete, new oil cooler and upgrade to stainless steel IPR screen about a year ago.
It seems that I'm having issues with playing my IPod through my stereo on my '09 Sonata. I'm using the factory radio with the IPod connection in the console. I bought the cable from EBay. Sometimes the IPod will just pause and stop playing. Sometimes I have to unplug it and plug it back in to get it to work, other times I can just switch sources and switch back and it will work again. Also, isn't it supposed to charge the IPod also? I have left it for overnight a few times without unplugging it and when I came back in the morning, it would not play because it was dead. It did not even start to charge once I started the car up.
View 6 Replies2003 SC430 with ~140k miles. Friday night, stopped at a gas station and left the car running for about 15 minutes. Then stopped the engine and left the radio on for about 20 minutes. Then the car wouldn't start- cranked weakly, then began clicking. Jumped the car- took about five minutes before it would turn over again.
Then, after disconnecting the cables and running for only about a minute, it cranked strongly twice in the span of a minute. I found that strange, not believing that it had properly charged up that quickly. Drove to an auto parts store, asked them to check the battery and such. Battery said good, alternator said voltage regulator failure.
After about 10 minutes, went to drive off, not planning to stop until I got to my destination. The car wouldn't start again, same weak turning and then clicking (note- this after about a fifteen minute drive, as opposed to the first one minute of charging after which it started twice just fine!). So I was surprised that it wouldn't crank.
Then I drove it all weekend without a problem (5-6 stops and starts). Then Monday night after I parked it, I went back to check it and it didn't start (same weak turn, and then clicking). Tuesday morning, I tried twice and got weak turn & clicking, then it turned a little more strongly and started.
My guesses:
-don't think my battery is bad
-don't think my battery really was fully discharged and then suddenly recharged even though it has seemed that way, in such short time frames
-my alternator claims to be bad (voltage regulation)
-maybe I have some sort of loose connection on the backside of the battery? (the terminals look solid)
But I didn't shake or bump the car, or do anything for the cabling to be loose/bad Monday night, and then start Tuesday morning. But perhaps the very effort of trying to start the car is enough to shake a connection back together?
(I don't think this is at all related to my blower post- my fan seems to be kicking on quite frequently while I drive, still trying to sort that out).
I got this truck from my step father, drove it from mississippi to washington (state) with minor problems. It's been sitting in my driveway for the last 6 months and I probably drive it once a week. I loaned it to my sister-in-law and she drove it for a couple of days with no problems. She went out one morning to take it and it wouldn't start, just cranked it for a few minutes and gave up. To make a long story even longer, I though it was fuel so I checked the pump, changed the filter, drained some fuel thinking water might have gotten in, ... to no success. I then started looking at electrical. Spark was getting to at least one plug. Pulled the distributor cap and cleaned it all up, replaced all the plug wires, and then tried starting it with the same results. (Oh, by the way, no check engine light so I assume no codes).
This goes on for a couple of weeks as it's in the driveway and I only pop the hood when it's not raining (we live just outside of Seattle). The other day I have the hood open, my wife decides to check on me since she thinks I'm talking to God and is wondering why I would use that kind of language when address a diety. I ask her to jump in and crank it while I pull a plug wire to see if I'm getting spark....again. Low and behold, the truck starts right up. I jump in to see if it's throwing a code and nothing. The thing is running great. I did notice that there is a ticking coming from the engine compartment and I realize the plug wire is still disconnected so I turn it off (with much hesitation) connect the wire, go back inside to start it and the thing won't start. I'm a private pilot and they say, if you're flying along and you do something and the engine stops, undo what you just did. So, I go back out, unplug the spark plug wire, and the thing starts right up. So, I start thinking, try another plug wire. I reconnect it, try another, and it won't start. So, what I figure is that it will only run when the second to the front cylinder plug wire on the drivers side on the engine is disconnected.
My truck started and ran as it always did and about a mile it just quit. I tried to restart it and it just cranked but wont start. I bought a scangauge II and did test for the normal no start issues that Ron on you tube mentioned.
Values are as followed engine off
14.8 - IPR 0- SYC
48.0 FMP 28 - ICP - I was thinking that the ICP sensor was a newer 04 model so the values come back a little higher.
While Cranking its as follows
84.7 - IPR 1- SYC
48.0 FMP 46- ICP
Research says that I think if the IPR is bad or unplugged it could show a low value on the ICP..
Also I wanted to check both the IPR and the ICP for connection and to make sure no oil on connectors. See if the IPR screen was cracked or cut.
I have tried to find them and cant so I thought they were behind the turbo so we took that off and no i still cant find it. I have the truck apart and it got late so I have decided to take a break and come back to it tomorrow.
As I said I'm not a diesel mech but I'm pretty good with figuring things out or at least enough to get into trouble.
Had a hot no start going, found dummy plug issue, replaced dummy plugs. While in there I cleaned the injectors (passenger side only) and put back together. Cranked multiple times, had to recharge batteries a few times as it is in the 10 - 20 degree temp range. No joy on re-start following the work.
Numbers I'm getting are:
KOEO With ICP connected:
ICP - 0
ICV - .07
IPR - 14.8
While cranking
ICP - eventually builds to 400+-
ICV - eventually increases to .13
IPR - maxed at 84.7
ICV too low so...
After disconnecting ICP
KOEO
ICP - 0
ICV - 0 (disconnected)
IPR - 14.8
While cranking
ICP - up to 1693
IPR - to 65.5
Still no start.
Ran through FICM check and the numbers are fine - 48 key on, 47 key during buzz, 47-48 while cranking.
I do get oil pressure registering on the dash gauge.
Fuel is in the filter housing
Oil filter housing refills with oil as expected when cranking
Only code is the P2285 once the ICP is disconnected