Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Codes P2128 And P2110 - Accelerator Pedal
Feb 19, 2015
It was the throttle body thing, cleaned that completely. Replaced the pedal with one from the bone yard. No change after clearing codes, the check engine light comes back the second you touch the pedal. Have a new (reman) throttle body coming tomorrow as I may have dinged it up after cleaning it again, I took it apart to see if I could see anything obvious.
Cleaned the carbon tracks inside and bent the brushes up more to contact the tracks better. I doubt it liked that. It was throwing a code for high current, but now that has disappeared. However, I used to be able to rev it up to 2500 rpm, now nada.... So I am left wondering if this is a bad ground or something? Bad wiring to the ECM:?
I would love a schematic showing where any relevant grounds are, pin out voltages etc. It is -15 here. The closest I've come so far: [URL] ....
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I have a problem with my sonata NF 2006 the check engine light turn on like 2 days ago and give me the p2128 code say Accelerator pedal Position Circuit - High Input something like that i cheek all the cable off the throttle body to the ecu and i don't see any cable broken how I can check the accelerator pedal sensor? I see in one page a texting the sensor whit a multi miter but was for santa fe and the cable don't have the same colors . I need the accelerator pedal cable diagram and i don't have it ....
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My 08 2.4l sonata gls won't start. I started it this morning to warm it up while I cleared off all the snow, it was running for about ten minutes. I turned it off and about twenty minute later went to start it and it will not catch. All the electronics are running and the engine turns over but it won't start. I replaced the battery in December, the oil was changed last week as well as the air filter. It has 93k miles on it. What could be the problem? I did go borrow a diagnostic scanner and it is throwing a P2110 P2118 and P2119 code.
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Just got into my 2006 Sonata V6 this morning. 120,000 miles. Drove last night, no problems. Started her up now this morning, noted check engine light and ESC lights on.
Pushed accelator pedal, no increase in RPMS at all. Put the car in gear (auto), car moves forward and backward, but pressing the pedal doesn't increase the rpms at all, so right now its not driveable. Luckily, its in the driveway so I know it could be worse. Took floor mat out, no interference issue there.
I changed the starter solenoid and that was over 45,000 miles ago. Never had that problem.
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The Check engine light on my 2006 Prius came on and I used my OBD reader to determine the code was P1121 - "Accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor - range/performance problem". I cleared the code to see if it would register again and a few weeks later same code showed up, but after driving it awhile the check engine light went out with out me clearing it and it remains off. The car drives normally with no other problems and when I monitor the APP sensor output I don't see anything particularly unusual. I can spend the $300 to have a new pedal installed, but I'm not sure there's problem especially if Toyota's design allows for a non-catastrophic failure mode.
My question is how does Toyota's engine control module manage a failure of the APP sensor? Is there a fail safe backup or is there potential for loss of throttle control like we heard about years ago in the news?
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I have a 2006 F350 Crew Cab with the 6.0. It is used primarily for towing a fairly heavy 5th wheel RV. I find that the accelerator pedal pressure is much higher than any previous vehicle I have ever owned. The problem is magnified by the fact that I have a previous ankle injury that makes it very uncomfortable to have to press on the accelerator so hard for long periods of time.
I try to use the cruise, which sometimes works on flat ground, but the shift point at my desired cruising speed is such that the slightest grade will make it downshift. With the cruise off and my foot kept at a constant pressure, the truck pulls up the slight grades just fine with no significant loss of speed and no downshifting.
Is there any way to lighten the pressure it take to push down the accelerator? I know it is actually moving a throttle position sensor, but is there also a pedal return spring here that is too stiff for me?
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About once every 4-6 months or so, when I floor the accelerator, my Sonata behaves in a very odd way. Instead of the typical surge of acceleration, it actually hesitates/decelerates for a second or so, then kicks in like normal. This is so pronounced that I lunge forward in my seat a bit before it kicks in. I've not yet been in a situation were this behavior has endangered me but it is quite disconcerting when it does happen. Obviously this is not something that is repeatable in a manner for any shop to diagnose. There is no CEL and it occurs so infrequently that I'm not that concerned about it yet. The only consistency about this is that this occurs while driving around town after I've slowed down to around 5-10 MPH approaching a light, taken a right turn and then attempt to accelerate into traffic. Since I'm usually in a turn lane, I'm out of the way of traffic and can adjust to this situation without any issues to either myself or the traffic around me.
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I have a 2010 Hyundai Sonata GLS 2.4L. This problem started several weeks ago. When I turn on the ignition on the car, I hear a squeaking noise coming from the engine initially. Once the engine warms up, the squeaking sound lessen but does not go away. When I shift my automatic transmission to DRIVE, and press the accelerator, I hear squeaking noise coming from the engine again. I stopped my car and opened the hood. I could hear the squeaking noise coming from the front left of my car, if you are facing forward the front of the car. I do not know much about cars but I think it is coming from the fan belt/serpentine belt, or possibly alternator but I am really not sure.
Presently, the sound has gotten worse so I want to fix this as quickly as possible. I am second owner and the mileage on the car is 45,550.
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I recently got a problem with my 2006 LX V6 with 65k mils on it. The car had a few times a rough Idle so I hooked up my OBDII scammer ant got two failure codes:
P0300 miss fire
P0276 problem with Injector #6
Which one is the cylinder #6. I took of the engine cover and checked the connectors to the valves in the front row. I assume cylinder number 6 is in the back row and hard to get access.
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My sister has a 2006 sonata V6 3.3, she got in 2007 with I think 20,000 miles on it, it has 180k. now. For the first few years she took it to the dealer for all the maintenance and oil changes. She has kept up with the oil changes and I think all the recalls were done.
There has been so slight noise at start up, but nothing I thought was too unusual for these kind of motors.
Yesterday she had an emergency with one of the kids, her faithful sonata fires up with an incredible amount of upper end noise, and it looked like it was burning oil. The engine was turned off immediately.
Her husband tried to start the car about a half hour later, he said it was hard to start, ran rough for moment, he revved it for a bit and it smoothed out running normally. No codes and no CEL. Oil level was good. Oil filter is a fram I think.
I started it a few hours later there was some lifter noise that quickly went away after a rev. Other than that it sounded normal and drove normally, normal exhaust from what we can tell.
There were no codes. and so far it has not done it again. But she is worried the engine is about to fail and she can't trust it with transporting her kids.
Was a timing issue? stuck valves? oil pressure? Oil Pressure to the cvvt (OCT?) maybe? They can't afford a new car right now, is this something easy to fix or is it a warning the motor is about done?
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The light just came on in my 06 Sonata 3.3L, showing many codes... P0171B, P0172B, P2187, P2188, P0174B, P0175B, P2189, and P2190. All of these just came on at once, within the last hour. Everything that is stated is regarding Too Lean or Too Rich on Bank's 1 & 2. Where to start on this...
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When I press the brake pedal, the car will stop. But if I keep pressing it while the car is stopped, the pedal wants to keep going towards the floor. I have to press hard for it to do this. I have bled the brakes. I've checked the calipers and the hoses for leaks and don't see anything. The master cylinder is topped up and I don't see any fluid underneath it. It doesn't appear to be leaking. The funny thing is, when I turn the engine off and press the pedal, the pedal comes to a stop and doesn't want to move after I pressed on it as hard as I can.
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My dad drives an '06 Sonata. And he recently broke a brake line and had gotten it fixed. His current problem is that his brake pedal hasn't returned after getting the line fixed. What can he do to fix that? The pedal is really low and is spongy. And his ABS and ESC lights are also on.
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I have a 2007 Sonata GLS 4cyl. Anyhow lately my brake pedal is going right to the floor. The brakes seem to work fine, but if I keep constant pressure on the pedal it will slowly go all the way to the floor. My rear rotors and pads have been changed a couple of months ago and I'm pretty sure my front brakes are good. What could be causing this? I also checked underneath the car for leaks and there doesn't seem to be anything leaking underneath.
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I drive almost all the time in stop and go traffic and my knee hurts because the brake pedal is too high. My wife also noticed that the brake pedal is unusually high. Is there any adjustment I can make to lower the brake pedal?
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I've got a troublesome misfire in a 2007 Sonata V6, 70k miles, which I have been trying and failing to track down for a long time.
More than a year ago, the owner of the car complained of rough idle. When this was first mentioned, I looked at the car, she and I talked, and I concluded that she hadn't changed the oil in some 20k miles. ...... Nothing else seemed wrong. I changed the oil, thinking that what she needed was an oil change.
Some time later, I was in the car myself and all of a sudden felt a strong bucking. Must've been a misfire. I recommended taking it to the Hyundai dealer, thinking the so-called 100k mile powertrain warranty would cover whatever it was (it didn't but whatever).
We drove it to the dealer. The dealer firstly informed us that the CEL had burned out, so we had missed some codes. The dealer further us the car needed new plugs and replacement of both upstream O2 sensors. Here was what the mechanic wrote:
"BETWEEN 35-40 PUT CRUISE ON AND WILL FEEL. CHECK AND ADVISE COMES AND GOES. MULTIPLE CODES STORED IN SYSTEM. ... P0300 RANDOM MISFIRE (ACTIVE), P0140 O2 SENSOR CIRCUIT NO ACTIVITY, P0154 O2 BS S1 NO ACTIVITY. WATCHED O2 VALUES AND FOUND ERRATIC READINGS. FOUND TSB 10-FL-012 SUGGESTING REPLACEMENT OF BOTH UPSTREAM O2 SENSORS. RECOMMEND COMPLETE SYSTEM TUNE UP FOR RANDOM MISFIRE. HOWEVER MISFIRE COULD BE RELATED TO O2 ACTIVITY.
So the owner went to a different mechanic and had the plugs, upstream O2 sensors, and one of the downstream sensors replaced. All OEM, I believe. ($$$!) (O2 sensor parts 39210-3C100, -3C200, and -3C400) Dunno why the downstream one was replaced, not my doing.
Following this, there was no real improvement. No codes either. The problem comes and goes, so maybe I thought it was fixed, but it has come back. Sometimes, it can be felt just slightly when the car starts cold. Other times, it can be felt just barely when driving at a consistent speed. Sometimes, the problem becomes really bad and jerks the car around. Other times, nothing.
What to check next? Coil packs? Intake manifold gasket? She never gets "top tier gasoline," but I would be skeptical that that's the problem. These are the top three suggestions I've heard.
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Recently, I clutched, the pedal went down, thought I heard something a little crunchy and then the pedal "popped" up. The clutch has been different since. Sometimes difficult to get in and out of gear. Have to double clutch. The first inch and a half of pedal has no resistance. When I release the pedal it pops up. You can hear it. It never stays down. I don't have to bring it up. Local garage thought it was something in the clutch itself. Otherwise clutch is tight. No slippage. Could it be in the hydraulics? Do we have to pull tranny to replace slave? It's not getting better and I want to fix before it gets worse. Car has about 100,000 miles.
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I've taken out the 2 bolt covers, taken out the T30 bolt, and have loosened the gas pedal a bit. But I can't pry the gas pedal upwards with a flat head screwdriver. I'm pulling and yanking this pedal up and back towards the front of the car and it won't pop off! Are there any tricks to getting this pedal off?
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I recently bought a 08 Sonata V6, with 94K mileage. The oil pressure light comes on when the engine is idle (around 700-800 rpm). The seller told me that this problem started a few months ago, but the car has not been used much since then. He also said that he has changed the oil after that, but the problem still persists.
The engine light has shown up more recently, like in a week or two. I took the car to a mechanic and he could not guess what the problem might be. But he gave me the error codes: P0011, and P0051. There are no other obvious symptoms (e.g. oil leakage, low oil level, unusual sound from the engine).
I could not find any thread regarding both of these issues (Oil Pressure, and the error codes) together. Any connection between these two?
So far, I have realized that the oil pressure can be due to a bad sensor, and P0011 has something to do with CVVT, and Oil Control Valve (OCV). But I would like to make sure I don't just waste money by replacing the sensor and OCV.
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2010 Sonata GL Sport at 122,000 kms (75,800 miles)
Engine Malfunction Light came on solid. Using ODBII reader, my Honda mechanic friend read the codes to be
P0106 Current, Pending, Permanent - Faulty Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor
P0304 Pending - Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
He replaced MAP sensor and Coil pack. But the Engine Light remains on solid. Now its only giving code P0106 which kind of points back to MAP sensor.
Spark plugs has never been replaced so I've been suggesting to replace it anyways proactively.
Questions:
1. What else may be causing the Engine Light?
2. When do Spark Plugs typically get replaced?
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I have a new (to me) 2007 3.3 Sonata w/ 64XXX miles on it. Recently it set off codes for P2A03 and PO154 indicating a problem with the front upstream o2 sensor. Before I replace the sensor I was wondering if these codes might have any other underlying cause.
Symptoms: The car has recently had one instance of pulsing acceleration and one incident where it didn't want to turn over but after an extended start finally started; this problem has not repeated. Otherwise the car has strong acceleration smooth idle and drives fine.
Also, I would like to know if o2 sensors are covered by mandated emission warranty or by Hyundai's 10y/100,000 warranty.
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