Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Code P0456 Won't Fully Erase And Keeps Tripping The MIL
Nov 18, 2013
I have a 2010 Sanata with 69500 miles. I have been getting a P0456 code for some time. I have replaced the gas cap, purge valve and the close vent valve and filter. The code still wont fully erase and keeps tripping the MIL. I have done a smoke test and there are no visible signs of leaking anywhere. What this could be.
One question I have in live data the purge valve never seems to go below 2.7 percent even when the engine is off. it was like that be for and after replacing it.
Could this all be caused by a bad ECU? I was told that in a 2010 Sanata that the ECU is common to fail. When the MIL is on I have 3 of the same code one freeze frame one that triggers the light and one that says permanent. Every time I erase the codes all but the permanent go away. No matter how many times I hit erase or even disconnect the battery it will not go away but the light shuts off.
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I have a 2006 Sonata with 88,000 miles on it. Currently, and for the past 11 months, the CEL has been on and the code always returned is a p0456, very small evap leak.
I searched for leaks but couldn't find any. I also replaced the purge control valve, but the same p0456 continues to reappear. Of course I also made sure the gas cap was on tight.
I received a coupon from the dealer for a free diagnostic so I took the car in.
The dealer reported the code as p0455, large evap leak, and said the cause was a cracked fuel pump housing. Cost to repair $850. Seems to me the dealer just picked the most costly part to replace, although I can confirm they looked at it because they forgot to screw the access cover back on.
So what I would like to know is how the dealer would have made such a diagnosis? I cleaned and inspected the outside of the pump and saw no crack, but I also understand that the crack may be too small see.
I want to be able to confirm that the dealer's diagnosis is correct, but how can I do that? I have a hand operated vacuum pump and access to shop air to aid in the diagnosis.
I read elsewhere on this site about pressurizing the system and putting soapy water on the area to show bubbles where the leak is, but where would I connect the air hose? And more importantly, what is a safe pressure to use?
Of course tracking down the cause of p0456. I know the charcoal canister could be problem as well, but I'd like to find some way of isolating down the failing component.
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My 2007 Sonata continues to throw a P0456 code, small evap leak detected, gas cap is tight, getting ready to check the evap hoses. The question I have is the evap system covered under the emissions warranty at all ?
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2008 with 165K. I had the fuel pump replaced then started getting this code. Garage said they did a smoke test could not find any leak. I then replaced this part (CCV #31453-3K500 / picture attached) I still get the code.
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CEL came on after a couple of driving cycles showing code P0456 (evap emission control system very small leak detected)............. car drives fine has good gas mileage.....
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Wife's car had a check engine light this morning, code is PO456, small evap leak, I took gas cap off cleaned the filler neck and solenoid the gas cap seal, and reset the light. I filled her car up on Sunday (2011 Sonata 2.4 80000 miles). Where to go next if light comes back on? Purge valve ?
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I'm having issues with my iphone bluetooth connection--each and every morning, I need to connect manually by turning off and on bluetooth menu in my iphone.
It may well be that my iphone is not working correctly, but I'd like to try everything possible to fix this issue.
By searching this forum, I learned that sometimes erasing/resetting bluetooth module will solve the problem, but how exactly can I do that?
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I have a 2009 Hyundai Sonata GLS 4 Cylinder with roughly 100k miles. The car runs great, shifts great, drives smooth. The only issue I have is starting the vehicle. When turning the key the car cranks sometimes longer than normal and sputters a bit before fully starting. I feel somewhat of a jolt like the engine is firing but its not what I call smooth. The other day it cranked longer than normal started for 1/2 a second then died and I had to turn the key again to start. I have already replaced the spark plugs and air filters. A while back we had the fuel filter/pump replaced but I'm not sure what else to do considering that the car runs fine otherwise. I read something about an EGR valve and maybe it's a vacuum hose?...
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So my factory car alarm has started going off by itself ; had to unhook horn wiring.
Bad hood switch issues are talked about ; seemed a little flaky when checked with meter so I changed it out, only $15. Hood pad already was made higher as a first try at fixing problem.
Still having alarm tripping sometimes. I read somewhere about the door lock actuators having a contact that tells alarm system when they are locked.
So I may have a faulty power lock assembly on one of the four doors. I have tried to open them when locked but they don't open. How to I tell which lock switch is bad , they are all pricy but the drivers rear is cheaper.
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My 2005 Mustang w/ 4.6L is giving a P0456 code and also won't let me fill it with gas completely. I think I've narrowed it down to the canister vent or purge valve. Looking for narrowing down which would cause the gas fill issue.
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My Jeep recently came up with a CEL after pumping gas sometime last week. It happened about an hour after so I did some research and they said one solution could be that my gas cap may be lose or needs replacement. I then removed and made sure the cap was secured properly. After about two days the CEL stopped showing up. I just took my Jeep to an AutoZone and was told that the reader was still detecting the issue.
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My CEL came on the other day, so I plugged in my scanner. It came up with P0456, saying "Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (very small leak)."
I double checked the gas cap, and it was on correctly. I saw on an OBD code website that the repair urgency is low, but I'm not comfortable with a leak in my fuel system, no matter where it is.
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I just recently had my cel come on and i scanned it when i got to work.. I've noticed that since I've owned the car which is only about 2 months I get this loud clicking sound from the passenger rear? If I am not mistaken I believe one of the evap control valves is located on this side.
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This last May I gave myself a graduation present and got a 2013 Sonata SE. I bought it through my Dad's friend's dealership at a pretty good deal and loved the car for the first few months, then things went South pretty quickly.
I've had more CEL issues with this car than I ever did with my piece of garbage 2000 Grand Cherokee.
The first time the light came on, I brought it to AutoZone who said I needed a new Cannister Close Valve. I then took it to my local Hyundai Dealership (Not my dad's friend's, I recently moved up to Ohio and that dealership was in Alabama) who verified that it was indeed the cannister close valve. They said I didn't need to get it fixed because it actually had nothing to do with the engine, but they gave me the part number should I want to buy it and switch it myself to save a few bucks. I bought the part from them and drove down to visit my family in the summer with the CEL on (who are in Memphis) to have my family's mechanic switch out the part. On my way down I stopped to get gas and, unfortunately for me, the gas hose kept clicking off like the tank was full after a quarter of a gallon, which obviously wasn't right. I brought it to my Memphis Mechanic and had them switch out the part, which they also said would resolve my fueling issue. They said everything was good, but on my short drive home (less than 10 miles from the mechanic) the light came back on. I turned around and my mechanic said he'd look at it. They then told me that I needed to replace a sensor in the EVAP system and that should solve the issue. For the rest of my time in Memphis, and on the drive back up to Ohio, I had no CEL, but I still had the fueling issue, but nowhere near as bad as it used to be. Once I was back in Cincinnati, however, sure enough, that stupid orangish-yellow light appeared back on my dashboard. I took it back to the Hyundai dealership who then wanted to charge me $500 to switch out the charcoal cannister which they were saying was the problem. To my great aggravation, they were unable to tell me that would solve my issue, but that it "should" fix it.
Well, yesterday the CEL popped right back on giving the same codes it's always been giving: P0442 and P0456.
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I got gas last week and then my SES light came on. I took it to my local auto parts store and used the code reader. The code that it produced was P0456. The guys at the store wasn't useful because he said it could be as simple as my gas cap needs replacing or a much bigger problem. Should I take it to the dealer or is it something I can fix myself?
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At roughly 140,000 miles, my wife's '07 Santa Fe GLS has thrown a P0456 code. Does this code on a Santa Fe common?
It is "evaporative emission system leak detected (very small leak)." The good news, I guess, is that it is 'very small.' However, being small may make it more difficult to detect.
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I have a 07 Sonata V6 that misses only when warmed up, runs fine when cold. code p0301 for cylinder one misfire, I have replaced the plug, coil and injector for cylinder one and still the same. idles and runs perfect when cold, dead miss on number one cylinder when warmed up.
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I parked my Camry and returned to find a small puddle, and a gas smell. Sure enough it was still dripping (45 minutes later, and made a small puddle 3'x2' on the blacktop)
I have had P0456 code come on sporadically in the 3 months I have owned the car, never seen this puddle. Not sure how to best tackle this one. I shot a short video of it. [URL] ....
What I'm looking at/for? Seems to be dripping from a black plastic accordion hose (cover).
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So my car's emission systems light came on last Saturday and after work today I took it to the local Auto Zone to have an onboard diagnostic done to see what the code was, as some friends had recommended. I have a 2004 Ford Taurus with about 146,000 miles on it. It came back as only one code, P0456, which according to the clerk meant one of four things.
1.) Defective, loose, or missing fuel cap
2.) EVAP Canister Broke, hose cracked or not connected
3.) Purge or vent solenoid defective
4.) Vacuum leak at engine
I asked him if there was anyway to eliminate a few of these, but he wasn't sure and said I would have to take it to a dealer or a repair shop (which I expected). I was wondering any tips or tricks so I can eliminate a couple of these, and also if this is a five alarm fire I should be panicking about. I did call my Dad and he did not seem overly concerned about it. Plus my car is still running fine and the light has remained steady and not flashing. My friend at work suggested I put a piece of black electrical tape over it and ignore it, but I want to be sure it passes inspection in September.
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Check engine and VSC lights came on wife's car, took to dealer, they hooked up computer and now stating that the Evap system has a leak. They want to replace the Charcoal Canister and they are quoting $900.00.
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2009 santa fe 67000 miles. Replaced fuel senders approx a month ago. All was fine. On about the 3rd fill up the cel came on. Code was for small leak evap. checked the gas cap, no problems. Replaced the purge valve and disconnected the battery while doing so. Cel light went off and stayed off thru one tank of gas. Filled up again and thought I detected a little fuel smell shortly after and cel came on again. I only smell fuel when its full and down to just before 3/4's. The light came on right before 3/4's. My husband is beyond frustrated and wants to smash the car lol. Once I get him calmed down where should we be looking for a leak and how to fix it? We can't afford a dealership bill right now and of course it's due for inspection next month.
Code was p0456
The only answer I got in the DIY section is to check around the fuel senders again but I'm leery to do it as I can't see how there would be a leak there, the covers go on SO hard even with that tool.
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