Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Code P0456 - Cracked Fuel Pump Housing
Aug 31, 2015
I have a 2006 Sonata with 88,000 miles on it. Currently, and for the past 11 months, the CEL has been on and the code always returned is a p0456, very small evap leak.
I searched for leaks but couldn't find any. I also replaced the purge control valve, but the same p0456 continues to reappear. Of course I also made sure the gas cap was on tight.
I received a coupon from the dealer for a free diagnostic so I took the car in.
The dealer reported the code as p0455, large evap leak, and said the cause was a cracked fuel pump housing. Cost to repair $850. Seems to me the dealer just picked the most costly part to replace, although I can confirm they looked at it because they forgot to screw the access cover back on.
So what I would like to know is how the dealer would have made such a diagnosis? I cleaned and inspected the outside of the pump and saw no crack, but I also understand that the crack may be too small see.
I want to be able to confirm that the dealer's diagnosis is correct, but how can I do that? I have a hand operated vacuum pump and access to shop air to aid in the diagnosis.
I read elsewhere on this site about pressurizing the system and putting soapy water on the area to show bubbles where the leak is, but where would I connect the air hose? And more importantly, what is a safe pressure to use?
Of course tracking down the cause of p0456. I know the charcoal canister could be problem as well, but I'd like to find some way of isolating down the failing component.
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This pump hangs down fairly low and appears easy for ice and rocks to hit on my 2013. Something hit mine and took a chunk out of the drain tube. No leaks yet but I am looking to get a new one and keep this as a spare, or just JB weld it. Can I just buy the lower section, or do I need to get entire pump?
Any creative protection bracket made? Would just have to take it off to change filter though. Any leak in this housing is a major show stopper when in the middle of nowhere! Maybe why it is getting brought into the tank on new models?
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I have a 2010 Sanata with 69500 miles. I have been getting a P0456 code for some time. I have replaced the gas cap, purge valve and the close vent valve and filter. The code still wont fully erase and keeps tripping the MIL. I have done a smoke test and there are no visible signs of leaking anywhere. What this could be.
One question I have in live data the purge valve never seems to go below 2.7 percent even when the engine is off. it was like that be for and after replacing it.
Could this all be caused by a bad ECU? I was told that in a 2010 Sanata that the ECU is common to fail. When the MIL is on I have 3 of the same code one freeze frame one that triggers the light and one that says permanent. Every time I erase the codes all but the permanent go away. No matter how many times I hit erase or even disconnect the battery it will not go away but the light shuts off.
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My 2007 Sonata continues to throw a P0456 code, small evap leak detected, gas cap is tight, getting ready to check the evap hoses. The question I have is the evap system covered under the emissions warranty at all ?
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2008 with 165K. I had the fuel pump replaced then started getting this code. Garage said they did a smoke test could not find any leak. I then replaced this part (CCV #31453-3K500 / picture attached) I still get the code.
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My fuel filter housing has cracked and i need to replace it. I have been told by volvo that i need to have it programed is this true or not ???
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CEL came on after a couple of driving cycles showing code P0456 (evap emission control system very small leak detected)............. car drives fine has good gas mileage.....
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How to replace the plastic (painted) part of the sideview mirror? The glass is fine and the mount is fine, but I've clipped something and cracked the painted plastic. Is that replaceable separately? What is the part number?
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Wife's car had a check engine light this morning, code is PO456, small evap leak, I took gas cap off cleaned the filler neck and solenoid the gas cap seal, and reset the light. I filled her car up on Sunday (2011 Sonata 2.4 80000 miles). Where to go next if light comes back on? Purge valve ?
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I'm fixing a 2007 Sonata that was in a front end collision, I've replaced everything that was ruined in the wreck (as far as I know), and also replaced the SRS control module, impact sensors, and also the airbag. The car starts with starting fluid and there isn't any damage to the engine so I'm not concerned with something being wrong with that, but the fuel pump won't prime and before the wreck it drove fine. So what could impede the fuel pump from priming? I've checked the wires and they're not sending power to the fuel pump so I feel like the pump should still be fine, it's just it's not getting power. What could cause this?
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2009 Hyundai Sonata GLS 4cyl 135k miles...
Everything has been going fine. On Thursday I stopped at a gas station. Came out and the car won't start. Had it towed back to the house.
It cranks, but won't turn over.
Fuel pump kicks on.
Spark plugs were worn, so changed them, can't hurt.
They spark, although it looks like it may be weak.
After changing the spark plugs and trying to start it, pulled them and you can smell fuel, so it is getting into the engine.
Checked the connections of the wire harness (all I believe)
Anything specific to this model that would suddenly not run. I drove it 3 times that day, no problems starting, running, driving, anything. So I'm kind of stumped on the sudden development.
The check engine light had been on, but I did disconnect the battery when I was looking at something else before I checked the codes. So it isn't throwing any now.
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It was acting rough and was a little loud. Like a low deep loud, the engine light came on. I tried to start it, it would crank but no start.
Code came up P0340 (Cam sensor) So i replaced it, reseted and scanned again, now it says P0343 To much input sensor 1 bank 1. When i turn the key over to "ON" I don't hear the fuel pump, is this normal?
I don't understand what to do I am so lost, I am ready to do the timing. Is there something cutting my fuel pump out or is it done? Do i do the timing, or replace the pump ...
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I'll be back to post the whole situation if the dealer doesn't make right on what I'm going through right now, but wanted to ask as I didn't find much searching, any issue with a cracked oil filter housing? I took car in for 30k service and came back leaking oil. Apparently part is back ordered and may take weeks. I spoke with ECS tuning and they said they don't have their aluminum filter housing yet for this model.
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I wonder how prevalent this problem is with Ford alternators. Sure looks like it was cracked a long time, like maybe from over-tightening. I was planning on having new bearings installed to hopefully take care of a periodic whine. Already replaced the idler pulleys. As much as I dislike rebuilt alternators, looks like I will be getting one.
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I have an 06 sonata 2.4l--last week the CEL came on so I took it to my mechanic and he said it was p0455 which is a large vapor leak in fuel assembly. We tried tightening the gas cap and resetting the code with a scanner but it came back on a day or two later. I have never overfilled my tank and i do not smell gas anywhere. the only real symptom (maybe non related)is my speedometer , it works but it is just a little slow to react when increasing or decreasing speed.---my gas mileage seems to be normal.We got under the car and looked around and couldn't notice any obvious tears in any lines -- should i try buying a new gas cap?--I was thinking it may be speed sensor but my mechanic said if it was the speed sensor , my tranny should be shifting funny , my trans shifts fine. I am at a loss and don't want to have to go to dealer with this.
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I have a salvaged 2009 prius. I just found out from my dealer that the connector between the a/c compressor and the synergy drive inverter is cracked and falling apart so it's causing a short. You can't just change the connector so the bill to replace the a/c compressor and the inverter comes to about $6700 and it's not under warranty because it's salvaged.
I an trying to find if there's ways for me to just replace the connector and where I might be able to find such a thing. The other thought I have is to just find some way to create an insulated housing for the existing connector. Maybe use a plastic mold?
What's the best way to go? The connector basically has two parts. One part is attached to the a/c compressor and the other part is attached to the inverter and then you just connect them together as if it's a power extension cable. It's orange in color.
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]I am in the process of swapping my oil cooler. When i pulled the smaller cover off of the cover that goes over the oil cooler, i heard a pop. The cover, not the one that bolts onto the motor the one that bolts to that, is cracked...bad. is there a place i can get one? need to know parts illustration with numbers?
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I have a 2002 Subaru Outback. The rear right brake light housing cracked, and filled up with water, shorting the bulbs. I thought I was clever in taking the light unit off, draining the water, changing the bulbs, and caulking the crack with silicon. This worked for a while, then the battery died. I couldn't really figure out why - it was a year old, and had no prior issues starting the car. I swapped out the battery for a brand new one, and that seemed to solve the issue for a week. Then the car refused to start all over again. I remembered the brake light, checked it - filled again. So I replaced the unit and the pig electric line, and charge the battery. This seemed to solve the problem, but then the car failed to start after about 3 weeks.
One additional detail is the dial light switch on the driving shaft. One is able to turn this to adjust light settings. Regardless of position, the lights turn off when I turn off the car. However, failure to start seems to be additionally related to the position of this switch; if it's switched all the way back towards the driver the car appears to start consistently for weeks on end, BUT the tail lights fail to turn on in this position (though the brake lights work). Alternatively, dialing the switch all the way away from the driver turns on the tail lights, but seems to be related to battery drain.
I've checked the health of the battery and the contacts - everything checks out. At this point I'm wondering if it's an electrical fault or the alternator.
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My 2005 Mustang w/ 4.6L is giving a P0456 code and also won't let me fill it with gas completely. I think I've narrowed it down to the canister vent or purge valve. Looking for narrowing down which would cause the gas fill issue.
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My 2015 Sonata SE fuel pump failed at 29,000 miles, I was stranded on busy highway. No warning light or anything, it just died going 65MPH! Hyundai fixed it & paid for towing (but not the cab ride to get home after leaving it at dealership on Sunday night.
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I have a 2011 Sonata GLS with ~65k miles. I have an intermittent problem with the cranking, but will not start. It sounds like the fuel pump is "whirring" before start, and this only happens once a week or so. Other times, the car starts fine. The gas tank is ~1/4 full also.
There has been another intermittent issue (not sure if it's related) - with the O2 sensor heating coil. The check engine light comes on for a day or two and goes away wit the O2 heater coil problem. However, I'm not sure a sensor coil problem would cause the car to not start when it's cranking.
Could it be the crank sensor issue? Is that issue known to be sporadic?
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