After removing dpf and egr check engine light is blinking. DPF and EGR were turned off in ECU. I rewrited ECU 4 times with different parameters that was working on other Sonatas.
Still after a while p2002 error comes out and check engine flashes.. few times in day Sonata is starting regeneration (I don't understand how because DPF is turned off).
I have a 2009 Sonata (base model) with about 60,400 miles (just out of warranty). My check engine light came on, I drove for about 25 miles or so and it went away. I still took it to a shop to get the code reading, it came back as "P0449 - EVAP Vent Valve Solenoid Circuit". Guy at the shop told me I can continue to drive without any issues but I should get it checked with a dealer. The engine check light is not on anymore.
I took it the dealer and they told me they will charge me $145 to run another diagnostic (they can not use the one I have from Auto Zone). And then on top of that, whatever they need to do, they will charge for that. And since I am out of warranty (barely) I will have to pay out of my pocket.
I have check engine light comes on first and after driving a few hundred miles later, light goes off. I drive the car for awhile about a few hundred miles and light comes on again. Basically on an off. AutoZone looked at it and got an error P2273 - it means oxygen sensor stuck rich. They told me to keep fuel tank cap tight. or something else may be defective. I have been driving last two years like this having engine light on and off. I do not see any engine performance difference.
View 1 RepliesMy sonata's check engine light came on today. I went to auto zone and they told me it was code p0711. From what I researched it seems to be the transmission fluid senor. Our other car had the check engine light come on last week.
View 22 RepliesI recently bought a 2007 Hyundai Sonata Limited from a private seller. This car has been perfect for the few weeks I've had it. Now, my check engine light came up and the error code "P0660 Intake Manifold Tuning Valve Control Circuit / Open Bank 1" popped up. I'm not really sure what piece to look for, or which connectors to check.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2006 Sonata with an intermittent check engine light. The light will be on for a few days then goes out for a day or two. This pattern has been going on for about 3 months now. A scan tool was used and showed the code P0011. I know this code has to do with the camshaft timing. My question is should the light be going out on its own if there was a problem with the camshaft timing? Does the engine correct itself and then experience the problem again. Is it normal for check engine lights to go on and off with out being manually reset? Could this be a faulty sensor or loose wire causing the light to go on and off? The car has about 75,000 miles, mostly Hwy, and is driven just about everyday.
View 36 RepliesI got a 2007 Hyundai Sonata Limited (Platinum Edition), 6 cylinder, 3.3L at 110,000 miles. Got a Check Engine light a month ago, checked it at Autozone and it showed P0171 and P0174 codes (Fuel System Too Lean). The code was cleared and I drew the car for about a month, and the light came back on again recently. Checked it again and now it is showing PO133 code (slow response (heated oxygen sensor bank 1)). What could it be if not the O2 sensor or bad wiring or cracks/leaks in the exhaust?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2006 Sonata, 6 cylendar. Today, the Check Engine light came on while driving home from work (note: there was no difference in performance of the car).
I went to the nearest Auto Zone to pull the code. The code reader came back with P0110. The guy at Auto Zone ran it through their computer and Hyundai didn't even come up in the list of code definitions for P0110. However, for all the other makes and models, this code is for the IAT.
The guy at Auto Zone, just for fun, tried to look up an air intake sensor for a Hyundai Sonata, 2006, and was told that this car does not come equipped with an IAT sensor. What caused the Check Engine light to come on and what do I need to have repaired?
I do not feel any difference in the transmission performance but the code has been cleared twice and keeps returning so the symptom is persistent. Can't find the 08 sub-code on the internet anywhere so guess I will have to visit the dealer.
View 6 RepliesFrom time to time, the engine lights comes on with error code P0365, it usually disappears within two days (it disappears by itself), but it appears once per month and stays for two days.
The code scanner says :P0365 Camshaft Position Sensor B Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1)
Do I need to change the sensor? and where is it located?
my Sonata is 2009, 2.0L (Korean imported) 4 cylinder ...
I know it is a random cylinder misfire code however I started my car in the morning and it was fine I moved it and put it back in my driveway. I started it up later and waited for it to heat up i came back outside 10 min later and my check engine light was flashing and my car was shaking like crazy you could tell the engine was misfiring like crazy. I had under a quarter of a tank but not empty yet. I shut it off and turned it back on and it was still doing it. I drove the mile to the gas station the way it was.
Under partial throttle it was revving to 4500 and over 5, had to let of throttle to make the car shift up a gear. I filled up and started the car again performed fine after that however the check engine light was solid now and still on. I went to my local mechanic and he read that code P0300. I changed my spark plugs that day and they were crap the original spark plugs I have 65,xxx on my car now. Car is smooth now. I cleared check engine when i saw him first and it did not come back on all day even before i changed the spark plugs later that night. Why my light was flashing and why my car was acting like that till i filled up?
So I had a serious runability problem back in 2012 with code P0302 (misfire in cylinder 2) and the car was barely running. I changed the spark plugs, which didn't fix the issues. Then changed the coil, which fixed it. URL...But I was a little lazy back in September 2012, the old spark plug wires looked like they were still in great shape, so I left the old wires on. I think they were the original factory wires, they had the numbers of each cylinder printed on the side. Very nice wires!
Fast-forward to the present. Car starts running poorly with a blinking check-engine light. Not good! I check the code and it is P0306, misfire in cylinder 6. So my first thought was: OK, probably time to change the spark plug wires!I changed the spark plug wires. I purchased AutoLite Professional Series wires at Advance Auto Parts, part 97047. URL...Sure enough, the number 6 wire looked like it had a little corrosion inside the end that connects to the spark plug wire. It looked like I was on the right track! Changed the spark plug wires, and ran it. It still sounded like it might be missing on one cylinder. Just a quiet ch-ch-ch-ch-ch-ch at idle. I took it for a test drive. It ran OK at low RPM's, but had no power. When I tested some hard acceleration, sure enough the check engine light came back on. Tested the code and it was P0306 again. Conclusion: not fixed yet.
OK, maybe the spark plug wire was the problem, just the plug got fouled because the wire was bad. I purchased a replacement spark plug for that cylinder only. AutoLite Double Platinum as recommended elsewhere in this forum. Removed the old plug. I'm no expert, but the old plug looked fine to me. Installed the new plug. Tested it again. Still sounded like missing at idle ch-ch-ch-ch-ch. Test drive, OK with low RPM, no power. Tried hard acceleration, got the blinking CEL again. Conclusion: still not fixed - darn it!
Now remember, I just changed the coil back in September 2012. I had replaced it with a coil from AutoZone. The first coil had lasted ten years. So it couldn't be the coil again this soon, right? But... just to be sure, I went ahead and changed the coil again. I called AutoZone and happily it was still under warranty. The previous coil I had purchased came with a 24-month warranty, and I was on month 23 !!! Sweet!AutoZone also told me if I did a warranty replacement of the coil, the new one would come with a lifetime warranty instead.The part number of the coil at AutoZone was part C1312, Duralast Ignition Coil.
Before installing the new coil, I put a little Dielectric grease around the top inside of each connector on the new coil (7 total, six spark plug wires plus the electrical connector). I think this was recommended in my Haynes or Chilton manuals.I am a tall skinny guy with long skinny arms. So I was able to replace the coil without removing the cowl. Last time I had to remove the cowl (to do the intake manifold isolator bolt repair) the cowl had cracked, also some of the clips holding it down broke. So I didn't want to remove the cowl unless necessary. It turns out with my long skinny arms I can lay up over the motor and reach back around both sides of the intake manifold to reach the coil. It is a reach, but it was possible for me to do the job that way.
I removed the three bolts holding the old coil in place. Then I was able to slide the new coil back in there, around the driver's side of the intake manifold. I transferred over the spark plug wires one by one from old to new (as recommended by another poster) so I wouldn't get confused which was which. It worked well to transfer the rear three first. That hold the new coil near the correct location, and gave me more slack to move the old coil further out of the way.Next step was to remove the wire connector from the rear of the coil pack. It didn't want to release. I looked at the old part (from 2012!!!) and there was a little plastic nub back there to lock the connector in place. It looked like there was room to work in a small screwdriver back there to release the lock. So I wiggled a short flat-head screwdriver in back there (with a wide head) and it released. Then I was able to easily remove the connector.
Then I had more slack to move the old coil further out of the way, toward the drivers side and front of the vehicle. And then transferred the last three spark plug wires to the new coil.Then to secure the new coil in place, I carefully installed one bolt by hand, leaving it loose to allow for final adjustments of position. Installed the second and third bolts loosely. Tightened the three bolts finger tight using a short (3") extension and 7mm socket (1/4" drive). Then snugged them very gently using my small 1/4" rachet. The small 1/4" rachet was a perfect fit using the 3" inch extension and the small 7mm socket. Remember you just want the bolts snug, do not over-tighten them.
When I went back to AutoZone to process the warranty return, they had to do some fancy work with their computer to get me the lifetime warranty on the new coil. By default it would just assume the rest of the original coil warranty from 2012 - which was just about to expire. So they made it right for me - but only because I specifically asked about it. By default, the guy had already rung it up their "normal" way, which would not have extended the warranty for me.Another thing that was strange was back in September 2012 when I replaced the original coil, it had worked well for ten years or so! Also, the bottom of it was clearly cracked, so it was easy to see that it had deteriorated and needed to be replaced.
I've got a 1992 Ford Ranger 2.3L with about 240,000 miles on it. The check engine light started blinking on and off pretty regularly so I pulled the OBD1 continuous memory codes and came up with this.
327 - EVP/EPT circuit below minimum voltage
328 - EGR closed valve voltage lower than expected
334 - EGR closed valve voltage high
I can't say these codes mean a whole lot to me besides I've got issues with my EGR valve and possibly the EGR valve position sensor. I was thinking I'd start by replacing the EGR valve.
Just bought 2007 Gs 350 in Dec 2015 with 60k miles. The other day I filled up with gas and drove to work. On the way home check engine light started blinking, check VSC appeared on display screen and traction light came on, car ran rough, and wouldn't accelerate. Got home and searched the net.. So I removed gas cap... No change.. Then removed neg battery cable for 10 min. Fixed problem for about 10 min. Then it all happened again. Next morning took it to Lexus dealer. The rep called and said it gave misfire cylinder 3. They said they checked valve springs and they are good, exchanged coil pack with different cylinder and still misfire #3. He said has to be injector so they want to replace injector ....
View 8 RepliesA few days ago my "Check VSC" warning came on along with the check engine and traction lights being on. I left my car in a parking garage for a week when I was on vacation and the lights came on once I started the car after getting back from my trip.
I have had the "Check VSC" warning before and I fixed it by replacing my gas cap. My gas cap seems fine this time around so I got my codes scanned and the only one that came up was P0300. Having this issue with the 2007 Lexus GS 350? I still feel like it's my gas cap because I bought a cheap replacement last time around.
I have a 2006 Hyundai Sonata with a 2.4 liter 4-cylinder engine. After filling the gas tank, the car idles roughly, but accelerates and performs fine at higher speeds. The rough idle lasts about 5-10 miles and then goes away.
Six days ago, I changed the spark plugs and air filter. Four days ago, I filled up with gas (and had the same issue with the rough idle). This morning, I started the car and idled it for 2 minutes while I scraped ice off the windows. I drove the car about 5 minutes and the check engine light came on. I took it to Autozone and the code given was P2187, System too lean at idle bank #1. "
Autozone suggested that it could be an air intake fault (MAF sensor), fuel pressure, or vacuum leak. They also said they have a MAF sensor cleaner to try. I am not sure if the rough idle after fill-up and check engine are related. Also, I don't know if the spark plugs or air filter could be related to the check engine. I was planning on making some easier checks first such as hoses near where I worked last weekend, especially near the air filter. Cleaning the MAF sensor is easy too. I was also going to check for vacuum leaks (incl. intake manifold) and recheck the spark plugs.
4 years ago, I also had a check engine light. I brought the car to a mechanic and he just cleaned the parts and the engine light went away. I was still under warranty then. Below is my original post:
Removing Canister Close Valve and Fuel Filter
Today, I have a P0449 code. Something is clogged again. I am now out of warranty because the Canadian emissions warranty isn't as good as the ones in the US. The gas pump keeps shutting off when I pour gas.
What the most likely culprit is? I may try to replace the part myself if is easy enough.
I unplugged the battery and left it over night. Started her up and there was no check engine light. I'm thinking it could be because of the CAI I have installed? Took it to autozone and he said it showing no codes.
View 9 RepliesI just changed out the spark plugs in my 06 Sonata and now the check engine light is on. The car runs fine but I can't find out why the light is on. Is there some reset switch?
View 7 RepliesI own a 2013 Hyundai Sonata. Two months ago I realized that my transmission shift occasionally while I am driving, especially when the weather is cold and I park my vehicle for more than one day. Then my engine check light came, after two days it went off. I went to the dealership and ask for a multi-point inspection (without telling the inspector the transmission problem), they recommend a transmission fluid flush, then I went to an auto part shop to ask for reading engine check light code, they see P0711. After researches online, I understand this code is about transmission fluid or transmission fluid sensor defect.
My question is that, would a dirty transmission fluid cause the P0711 code, as some people stated online ?
Just went and got my check engine light looked at.
This is what code I'm getting P0174
It's also listing ignition misfire condition
Fuel injector problem
and engine mechanical condition.
I don't know if this is listing probable causes of the P0174 or if it's saying those are also problems.
First time dealing with autozone and there check engine light look up.