Check engine light came on momentarily, car had poor acceleration. Light went out and ESC light came on. When the car was turned off and restarted, the ESC light went out.
I scanned the engine, no codes, either open, pending or historical.
Question, could the issues with the two lights be related? Or is there anything else I should check?
2007 Sonata GLS - I4; 55kmiles ... I plan to sea foam on my Sonata as it continues to have slow acceleration and poor mileage. Looking for a picture of the Brake Booster or Vacuum line? I want to make sure I am pouring it in the right place.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2006 Hyundai Sonata V6.
The Check Engine light came on days ago. I have tried to re-close the gas cap, it's not it. This morning, I am on my way to bring my daughter to school and maybe 500 feet out of my driveway onto the main road, my car loose it's acceleration power. I pulled over and noticed the ESC light was on. I turned off the engine. Turned it back on. Both lights still on. Rinse...repeat with turning it off and turning it on....this time it worked, ESC light was now off but the Check Engine light was still on. I proceeded back onto the road with no more acceleration problems.
I have a 2006 Sonata v6 with 154,000 miles on it. Haven't had much trouble with it at all.
Today, while driving in blustery winds, but dry roads, with my cruise control on, my ESC and ABS lights went on, simultaneously disengaging the cruise. About 20 min later, when I stopped for gas, I turned the car off. On restart, the lights stayed on. No more than 5 min later once I got on the freeway, the check engine light went on, as well. I'm wondering if this might all be an electrical issue easily solved and not an immediate safety issue? I'm 60 min from home, and hope there's not a problem with driving back.
2009 Limited, 3.3L, 65000 miles.
Car starts, check engine light and ESC light come on. The car has no throttle/pedal response. It will not go above idle speed and it doesn't matter how much the fuel pedal is pressed. So we've turned around and returned to where we started.
The first time I let the car sit for five minutes and started it. No problems for four weeks. Yesterday, we tried that four times and that didn't work. I disconnected the battery for five minutes and the car works normally again.
I bought a pre-owned 2015 Sonata Limited in November. I only had less than two weeks before the car hesitated upon acceleration and the check engine light came on. At the time, I thought it was a loose gas cap as I'd just gassed up. I took it to the dealership, they pulled the code and it said to replace the accelerator pedal. That required a second trip to the dealership 2 weeks later when they completed the work. Two weeks later and the light came back on. I took it back and asked them to keep it until they found and fixed the root cause while I took a loaner. They kept the car about 2 weeks and when I picked it up, I found that no work had been completed. Two days (!!) later the light came back on.
View 11 Replies2006 ford f150... Mine started out as a misfire problem which I first changed the plugs. I followed the Ford TSB and got all 8 plugs out with no problems. Still misfiring and setting a code for bank 1 catalytic converter inefficiency bank 1. By the way bank 1 is passenger side. After changing bank 2 because the guy at Advance auto said bank 1 was drivers side. Still setting misfire codes and for bank 1 cat. ineff.
So after installing new coil packs and 2 injectors, Still misfiring #3 and #1 and cat. ineff. bank 1. Decided to buy my own code reader, which is a must if you are going to try to work on these new vehicles. Decided to unplug o2 sensor to see where bank 1 really was. Thats when I found out bank 1 was indeed passengers side. Changed o2 sensors. Still misfiring. Decided to buy the true bank 1 cat converter.
Dropped old bank 1 cat and found all of the internal workings all broke up and clogging converter. Truck runs like new. I spent 178.00 for bank 1 converter at pep boys. After spending O approx. 600 in other parts that didnt fix it. I think the spark plugs not being changed until 115000 miles caused the converter to go bad. Buy a code reader and it makes it a whole lot easier to diagnose your problem yourself. and save a whole lot of money throwing new parts at it.
After scouring through hundreds of threads on this forum (which is Awesome, BTW), it seems as if this misfire / rough idle thing is fairly common (which is scary!!). CEL is on steady. Had the codes pulled; P0301, P0302, P0303. At the recommendation of the mechanic, I had the plugs replaced...no improvement. He then replaced the ignition coils...no improvement. Just finished replacing the MAP sensor. This actually had a VERY temporary positive effect. However, after about 5 miles of driving, the misfiring returned. Took the car to the Hyundai dealership, and they acted as if they didn't want to fool with it. They referred me to a couple of local repair shops...????
View 8 RepliesSome days ago while I was driving, the check engine, red triangle and vsc lights came on and immediately my car slowed down. It would take longer to accelerate and every once in a while upon getting to a stop sign, it would take long to get to 5 from 0. could this be my hybrid battery going out? My regular scanner can't pull up any codes on a prius.
View 11 RepliesAt the beginning of this year I purchased the 2014 XV Crosstrek Hybrid. I have been trying to love it for 7 months now, and am failing. The way the hybrid engine functions creates a very jolting, inconsistent, and frustrating driving experience:
The acceleration is poor and inconsistent ... it never seems to know what gear it should be in. So much so that there have been times I have felt unsafe moving into traffic (and I am not one to push a car or "jump out" into traffic; friends who have driven it also have the same experience).
The start/stop of the engine when it goes to/from electric creates a resounding shudder that shakes the entire car every time it happens (and it happens ALOT).
The engine is like a PC instead of a MAC ... it's always doing something and you never know what it's up to.
When you use the defrost or the A/C it makes all these matters that much worse.
I'm very disappointed that Subaru would put a car that functions like this on the market. I'm a long time fan of Subaru's (I still drive my 1992 Legacy wagon manual transmission, which, quite honestly, drives a whole lot better than this new hybrid). And I counted on Subaru when, after 22 years, I went looking for a new car. This is not a vehicle that Subaru should have on the road. I get so many people asking me about it because I got it in the Plasma green and it is beautiful. And I give them the honest truth about it's performance; I have NOT sold at least 5 cars for Subaru.
I looked at so many cars from so many other makers, and this was the only one I truly wanted. It seemed to have everything and I trusted that Subaru's engine would be fabulous as always. Make it run smoothly, accelerate well in a trustworthy manner, not have such a jolting engine experience. You've got it on all other counts with this car ... just not the engine, and all the other factors do not make up for poor engine performance.
I have a 2007 3.3L Sonata.
The car has been sitting for around 8 hours. Wh en I start it, the idle moves up and down about 100rmps. When I drive off there is a slight hesitation until I have driven for about 10-15 minutes. The idle is nice and steady after the too.
If I use a fuel system cleaner, it appears the car is fine for awhile and then the issue comes back.
I have a 2000 Explorer 4.0 SOHC that I'm having a persistent problem of cylinder 3 misfire. I've changed plugs with Motorcraft plugs set to the proper gap, put on new wires and have checked the resistance across the ignition module, both primary and secondary without change. I doubt that the problem could be the ignition control module as only cylinder 3 is affected. I have Auto Enginuity that I use to read the codes, attempt a repair and then clear the codes only to have P0303 appear again. Obviously the engine stumbles and has poor acceleration.
View 14 Replies2006 sonata 3.3L has an engine miss that is most prominent around 30 mph but not detectable at idle or during acceleration. It has new plugs that are properly gapped. Transmission fluid is good and fresh. I even checked the ignition coils and had all about .9. I even changed the fuel filter. What else could it be?
View 7 RepliesI have a 04 f350 6.0 with about 195xxx miles on it. The other day my truck started acting up. It starts and idles without a problem and drives fine till the engine gets to operating temp once there I cannot accelerate quickly like getting onto the highway to get up to speed it just the motor just goes quiet and won't accelerate. It usually does this a little after 2000 rpm. I can let off the throttle and slowly get to speed as long as I don't go past 2000 rpm. No check engine light was not on scanned it and got p0611 for the ficm. I tested the ficm and it read 48v with key on. While truck was running I got 46.xx v then Started to climb to almost 48v. The truck was warm but not at operating temp where the problems starts(didn't have time to let it warm up all the way) could these symptoms be the ficm still? What else should I test?
View 5 RepliesMy problem is on wed I was driving my car,when I suddenly lost acceleration power, after pulling over to the side of the road I turned off the car and restarted it. However I still had the same problem with acceleration. After a while of trying to get the car to start I called a tow truck and got it towed to the dealer. When I got there they told me it was likely and issue with with a sensor on the gas pedal and the engine. At the dealership I started the car to show them the problem however the car drove perfectly and no engine light came on.
They told me it was most like what they said over the phone the sensors. However on xmas eve they called me and left a voicemail saying the rear cat had went out and taken out both rear exhaust manifolds and it would coast $3000 to fix. My question is how can all that happen without the checking engine light coming on in the car and the car showing no problems while i was driving it and how did they miss it when I had took the car in two weeks earlier for regular maintenance and to correct a drive belt issue due to it walking after I purchased a new drive belt and pulley.
While pushing the gas pedal for acceleration from stop I feel the engine grunts more and then on its smooth. I don't have any lag in acceleration the car moves well. The car is 2008 Sonata 4 Cyl. the mileage is 137000. Is this normal for this mileage or something wrong. When I asked the service center guys, they replied they don't find any issues and everything is fine. It might be due to the mileage on the engine.
View 5 RepliesI recently got a Sonata from my parents when they moved to Pennsylvania. It's a 2007 with the 2.7 liter engine. It has had low oil for some time, so when I got it (last week) I put more in, up to but not above the full line.
It has had now for just a couple of days a very bad rattle, which is barely audible (but still IS audible) at idle and gets very severe during and after acceleration. It remains for some time even after the gas is no longer being pressed, then subsides a bit. I diagnosed it as knocking, but just today the check engine light came on and the rattle got louder.
I don't have another car to drive and I have class in five hours. Should I drive it or call a cab?
I unplugged the battery and left it over night. Started her up and there was no check engine light. I'm thinking it could be because of the CAI I have installed? Took it to autozone and he said it showing no codes.
View 9 RepliesI just changed out the spark plugs in my 06 Sonata and now the check engine light is on. The car runs fine but I can't find out why the light is on. Is there some reset switch?
View 7 RepliesJust went and got my check engine light looked at.
This is what code I'm getting P0174
It's also listing ignition misfire condition
Fuel injector problem
and engine mechanical condition.
I don't know if this is listing probable causes of the P0174 or if it's saying those are also problems.
First time dealing with autozone and there check engine light look up.
My 06 Sonata 120k 3.3L Does not go into reverse. (automatic) Took it for a short (1/4 mile) ride. Shifted fine at first then check engine light came on and it seems to be stuck in 3rd? What this may be, I don't want to get ripped off on a repair I don't need.
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