Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Check Engine Light Came On At 25 Miles Or So After A Fill Up
Jun 28, 2016
I have an issue that keeps recurring intermittently that I cannot seem to figure out. The car is a 2006 Sonata with a 4-cylinder and about 130k miles. It started about 6 months ago when the check engine light came on 25 miles or so after a fill up. The code shown was P2097 (Post catalyst system too rich.) I reset the light by disconnecting the battery. I tried adding some gas dryer and premium fuel and that seemed to work, but the light would intermittently come on. I also replaced the spark plugs (put dielectric grease on the boots) and had the exhaust system checked for leaks. I also put in fuel injector cleaner several times and cleaned the MAF sensor. In April, the light was coming on quite often, so I replaced the post catalyst oxygen sensor and reset the light.
The light stayed off for 600 miles or so and then came back on. This time the code is P0420 (catalytic converter efficiency). An exhaust system shop said that there does not appear to be anything wrong with the exhaust system including the catalytic converter itself. The car does have a slight miss at idle, but performs fine other than that. Also, if the car is not driven for a few days, there is some valve train noised when the engine is first started which lasts about 5 seconds.
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I have a 2006 Hyundai Sonata with a 2.4 liter 4-cylinder engine. After filling the gas tank, the car idles roughly, but accelerates and performs fine at higher speeds. The rough idle lasts about 5-10 miles and then goes away.
Six days ago, I changed the spark plugs and air filter. Four days ago, I filled up with gas (and had the same issue with the rough idle). This morning, I started the car and idled it for 2 minutes while I scraped ice off the windows. I drove the car about 5 minutes and the check engine light came on. I took it to Autozone and the code given was P2187, System too lean at idle bank #1. "
Autozone suggested that it could be an air intake fault (MAF sensor), fuel pressure, or vacuum leak. They also said they have a MAF sensor cleaner to try. I am not sure if the rough idle after fill-up and check engine are related. Also, I don't know if the spark plugs or air filter could be related to the check engine. I was planning on making some easier checks first such as hoses near where I worked last weekend, especially near the air filter. Cleaning the MAF sensor is easy too. I was also going to check for vacuum leaks (incl. intake manifold) and recheck the spark plugs.
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I have a 2008 Sonata Diesel version, and I am getting the engine management light on. All the times i have scanned it, it says - Insufficient air flow to EGR Valve. This gets automatically reset in a day. Now the weird thing - This is happening only if I drive in and around Heathrow airport I have done 100s of miles elsewhere and this problem never occurs. But if I just drive 20 miles to Heathrow, my engine management light always comes on which resets in a day.
I am really confused on what is happening here.
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I understand that filling up with gas when the car is running is not recommended. I did it once without realizing that it could cause issues. Now I am trying to determine if that action has anything to do with the CEL being on. The codes are P0442 and P0456. The codes have been cleared several times but the light pops back on after a while, anyway from one day to a week later.
Smoke test did not reveal any issues. My question is this, can filling up with the engine running cause any physical problems with any of the EVAP components? What would be the most likely problem? I plan on buying a new gas cap, since it is cheap. I do not wish to spend a lot fixing this problem.
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I unplugged the battery and left it over night. Started her up and there was no check engine light. I'm thinking it could be because of the CAI I have installed? Took it to autozone and he said it showing no codes.
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I just changed out the spark plugs in my 06 Sonata and now the check engine light is on. The car runs fine but I can't find out why the light is on. Is there some reset switch?
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Just went and got my check engine light looked at.
This is what code I'm getting P0174
It's also listing ignition misfire condition
Fuel injector problem
and engine mechanical condition.
I don't know if this is listing probable causes of the P0174 or if it's saying those are also problems.
First time dealing with autozone and there check engine light look up.
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My 06 Sonata 120k 3.3L Does not go into reverse. (automatic) Took it for a short (1/4 mile) ride. Shifted fine at first then check engine light came on and it seems to be stuck in 3rd? What this may be, I don't want to get ripped off on a repair I don't need.
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I recently installed HID lights in both the low beam and fog/driving lights on my 2008 Sonata Limited. I used relay wiring kits so the HID's pull power straight from the battery. When I turn on the HID's after starting the car, the engine stalls and throws a check engine light with codes P0698 & P2110. Took the car to the dealer and all they really did was verify the codes and clear them claiming it was fixed...NOT!!
If I restart the engine 2-3 times with the HID's off, the check engine light clears itself and if I rev the engine RPM's while turning on the HID's then it's no problem. The HID's otherwise work great..and again the only power they pull from the car's electrical wiring is the signal from the headlight switch wiring that trips the relay to turn the HID's on!! The HID relay wiring kits have inline 20amp fuses between the battery and relays and they are fine, so the HID's can't be pulling that much current.
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I have a 2007 Sonata Platinum Edition with a V6. I changed the battery in December 2015 and the car has been sitting since then waiting for my niece to buy it. I haven't driven it since the battery install until today. The problem is although the car started easily I noticed the Check Engine Lite is now on and so is the ESC Off light. No matter what I do the ESC on off button it still says ESC Off. So I thought I'd take it for a ride only to find out that the engine won't run much faster than an idle. Floor the gas pedal in drive or reverse and nothing happens except the car moves very slowly. Just a little faster than it would if you put your car in gear but didn't give it any gas.
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so I bought a 2008 Sonata with 70K miles about a month ago...
about a week ago, I noticed the oil pressure light was not going off immediately, it would stay on for like 5-10 seconds after the engine would start, usually it would fade away, sometimes flicker..
anyway, the time it stayed on and took to turn off got progressively longer every day (as long as 30-45 seconds) but it eventually goes away... well today the check engine light came on, and now the oil pressure light will flicker occasionally, and seems to do so based on actual pressure, not like a loose wire or something...
whats weird is if i'm acclerating, or maintaining steady RPMS, there is no light, but if i let off the gas, it will come on real quick, like a fraction of a second and go away, but when the car shifts (the same type of RPM drop) it doesn't happen...
anyway, I'm pretty chapped about it as I just got the car less than a month ago and bought it as is, but now i'm freaking out..
oh also the car doesn't leak, the oil change is less than 1K miles old and the oil is showing full on dipstick.
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The light just came on in my 06 Sonata 3.3L, showing many codes... P0171B, P0172B, P2187, P2188, P0174B, P0175B, P2189, and P2190. All of these just came on at once, within the last hour. Everything that is stated is regarding Too Lean or Too Rich on Bank's 1 & 2. Where to start on this...
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I recently got a Sonata from my parents when they moved to Pennsylvania. It's a 2007 with the 2.7 liter engine. It has had low oil for some time, so when I got it (last week) I put more in, up to but not above the full line.
It has had now for just a couple of days a very bad rattle, which is barely audible (but still IS audible) at idle and gets very severe during and after acceleration. It remains for some time even after the gas is no longer being pressed, then subsides a bit. I diagnosed it as knocking, but just today the check engine light came on and the rattle got louder.
I don't have another car to drive and I have class in five hours. Should I drive it or call a cab?
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I have a 2001 Prius with about 175K miles on it. I was headed to the beach this past Tuesday and had an oil change done right before I left. The trip here from NC to Myrtle Beach was about 200 miles. On the way back today, after I stopped to fill up on gas the 'check engine' light came on for the rest of the trip back home. I went tonight to Autozone and got back all the codes that are P0420, P0300, P0301, P0304, P0440 ....
My question is...Is it possible that all of those codes are somehow the result of my recent oil change? (Oil overflow?, etc.) I've been doing some searching in the archives for those codes and oil/fluid changes appear to be a possibility with all of them.
Just a little background, I've already had the hybrid battery replaced in this car a little more than a year ago. I've had no more warning lights come on since that time until today.
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2009 2.4 Sonata. Replaced the battery. Engine light came on after battery replacement. Engine code P0106 (MAP sensor or vacuum leak). Car drove fine before and after the battery replacement. Engine light after replacing battery?
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Earlier today i left my car idling for a couple of minutes and when i got back in and started to drive the car was vibrating, almost as if it was going to stall and the check engine light was flashing. drove a bit and stopped, started the car and now the check engine light stays on constantly. I have had the light come on (and remain on) a few times in the last while but it is usually solved by tightening the gas cap. it always seems to happen when i am low on gas (100 mile range-ish) Someone suggested maybe i had dirty gas in the car and needed stabilizer. My boyfriend said its a "misfire" and to change the spark plugs.
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My Hyundai Sonata has been the dealer twice so far and the problem hasn't been fixed yet. Once in a while when I accelerate quickly the check engine light comes on and the esc light comes on and the car goes into a limp power mode or fail safe mode and the engine won't rev above 2000 rpm until I turn the car off and back on again.
Both times I have had the car to the dealer the Scan Code "P2138 Throttle Position Sense P2106 Elect Control forced limit power" Were found. They cleared the code drove car and it did not return.
This has now happened about 5 times, in the last year and each time after switching off the car it runs fine, and after about 5 starts the check engine light goes off.
Well this just happened again yesterday (just as I was about to blow off some kid in a Ford Taurus from a stop light) So I called my dealer (who has been very good thus far with my car) and told them about the problem happening again and that this time I want this sensor replaced, and not having the code cleared.
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2nd battery in 2010 Sonata 4-cyl died on my wife last night. Got a new battery today and put it in. (Couldn't move car even to push as there wasn't enough juice left to get transmission out of Park). Started right up after battery replacement and ran engine at idle for probably a half hour. Engine seemed to run a little funny. Lost RPM's and sounded like it might die a couple of times, but it stayed running. Now the dreaded check engine light is on. I've had a couple of stop-starts since it began, so I'm not sure it's going to go away. Car seems to be running fine now. Is there a connection between the battery going dead (so dead I lost radio presets and trip odometer readings) and something fouling up the check engine system?
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2009 Sonata 4 cyl with 40,000 miles.
My car was slow to start last night. This morning took it to Autozone and they checked the battery, which was bad. Got the new battery installed and drove about a mile then turned off engine. Upon restarting engine, Check Engine Light came on.
The timing is such that it seems the CEL is because of the battery. How to handle? My car has otherwise run perfectly in its first 40,000 miles of life. Only other relevant detail is that the presets on my radio kept resetting, I figured this may be because of low battery power.
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I have had this issue on and off for a while. happened about 2 years ago just after i bought the car, and just started last week again.
The car will be running fine, then will start to buck while accelerating, shortly after the check engine light will start flashing and the car runs like it is on 1 cylinder. shut of and start again, light remains on( not flashing), car runs smoother, but does not accelerate like it should.
took it to autozone, they said it was giving the code for random mis-fire, and O2 sensor.
2 years ago the dealer said it was loose coils, and they fixed the problem, all the coils feel tight this time.
2007 Sonata ... 3.3 V6, 70k
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My Sonata has 150k on it and the tensioners have gone bad 3 months now. This AM i got a flashing check eng. light and the car runs rough. Any relation or am I looking at plugs or coil issues?
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