Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Car Won't Stay On For More Than 30 Seconds
Oct 25, 2010
So tonight while driving home check engine light comes on. I get home shut the car off and start it up again, no check engine light but the car won't stay for more then 30 secs even if i give it some gas.
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How to tighten up the driver's side sunvisor so that it will stay put. On my 91 Civic, all that has to be done is tighten a Phillips head screw and it's good to go. I don't see any adjustment screws on my 06 Sonata and I'd rather not have to take the time to make an appointment with the dealer for what would seem an easy fix.
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Received a battery jump in the dark from a friend who mistakenly had crossed the polarity. It blew the 150amp alternator fuse which is now replaced. Now, the ABS, ESC Off and brake lights stay on after starting. I have checked all fuses and the main relay, both under the hood and in side of dash, and cannot figure out what is causing this. The auto shift lever is locked out and I don't want to override it not knowing if it will cause any damage. Also, what protocol OBD system would this auto fall under?
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Is there a way to tighten, or adjust the rear doors to stay open? Mine close by themselves on even a slight incline.
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I have a 2006 Sonata, last night I was driving and when using my high beam headlights they would stay bright and then dim then brighten up again. The battery has not been replaced since I have had this car, but I didn't know if it could be the battery, alternator or maybe the headlights? They work fine on regular beam, no dimming on this setting.
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I have a 2006 Sonata v6 with 154,000 miles on it. Haven't had much trouble with it at all.
Today, while driving in blustery winds, but dry roads, with my cruise control on, my ESC and ABS lights went on, simultaneously disengaging the cruise. About 20 min later, when I stopped for gas, I turned the car off. On restart, the lights stayed on. No more than 5 min later once I got on the freeway, the check engine light went on, as well. I'm wondering if this might all be an electrical issue easily solved and not an immediate safety issue? I'm 60 min from home, and hope there's not a problem with driving back.
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I have a 2007 4 door Sonata with an electric rear passenger window that will not stay up. I will need to remove the door panel to get to the problem. Any video, or a step by step procedure that would guide to remove the door panel and possibly repair the window?
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I was wondering if there was a way to have the charging port to stay on all the time when the car is cut off. When i leave my phone in the car charging, the charging port cuts off and my phone is dead when I come back in the car. If there is a way, how to do it.
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I have 2007 Sonata GLS and have noticed on several (at least 6) occasions that the parking lights (front turn signal lamps and tail lights) as well as the instrument lights will stay on after turning off the car, removing key and locking it. Usually I flip the switch a few times and they'll go off and stay off. Today wasn't so easy. I'm guessing it's the switch but wanted to know if this is isolated case or more common before I take to Hyundai. The problem can't be "duplicated" when you want it to happen. Usually it's on colder mornings when coming to work.
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I have a 2006 Sonata GLS with the 3.3L V6 and close to 230,000 miles. A few months ago I noticed that my crank time at starting was longer than typically - it has steadily gotten worse.
Now the crank time is close to 8 - 10 seconds. (Which might not seem like much but trust me, it is).
I suspected that the fuel pump was faulty, however, once started - it runs great.
I put a pressure gauge on the fuel pump outlet and found that it only kicks the pump on when the car is cranking, the fuel pump does not kick on when the key is in the "on" position. Once the vehicle starts, it seems to be drawing fuel.
The pump has all sorts of pressure, I am not worried about that.
I decided to change the Fuel pressure regulator valve thinking that maybe it wasn't holding pressure - That didn't seem to do anything.
Do I need to change the entire Fuel Pump Assembly?
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My alternator went out , don't have the cash to pay a mechanic to do it for me. How to go about this the best way??!
Noticed that strange rattling sound upon starting up ?? I have a 2006 Sonata V6 . At first I thought it was normal I listened to other sonatas heard the same thing, but I don't think its normal googled it found some info but no clear answer , any way to fix it?
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I own a 2007 Sonata 2.4l GLS with 120,500miles on it. In the past three weeks (recently after oil change) its developed a clunking noise only when warmed up (about 40 seconds). I purchased this car beginning of August and it had no noise then. I changed the oil with 10w30 castrol hm oil (the dealer I bought it from stated they put in same viscosity although oil cap reads 5w20 manual says 5w30 is acceptable) . Ive had it checked out by mechanics who have no clue what it is and want to tear down the engine. The noise goes away if it revs a bit higher that 1200rpm and then cones back worse when revving down until idle where its not as bad again. I've changed spark plugs (they were factory anyways) and ran premium fuel and even bought a Hyundai filter afterwards hoping it would work but to no avail. I have a video sound clip where its clearly audible Sonata Ticking Noise - YouTube .
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I started having an issue when the weather changed here on the East this weekend. When I start my car in the morning the engine knocks for about 30 seconds and then stops. I also recently got an oil change at some local mechanic shop and wondered if that might be the issue. I checked the oil and it was stellar this morning but I'm not sure what kind they put in there. I would assume it's the required type.
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Two months ago I bought a used 2006 Sonata v6 with 54,000 miles. After a few hundred miles I began to hear a rattle on cold start that lasts approx 5 secs. I did my research and saw the TSB concerning the timing chain tensioners. The TSB instructs the dealer to turn the engine off after reaching operating temp then restart after 10 minutes. If there was no noise after the ten minute start then the car is operating normally. My car does not rattle after the 10 minute start up. I just can't see this as a normal characteristic. What could be causing this noise?
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2006 Sonata LX. It's only on a cold start up and lasts for about 30-45 seconds tops..and then it goes away. Car has 74k on it. Treated well. Only use synthetic oil and no check engine lights. Last oil change I put 5w 30 in it. I know it says to use 5w 20. Could this be the problem?
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Yesterday i went to mechanic and changed Timing chain tensioners, with chains and all guides. But still have 2 second voice on startup, once oil pressure lights off everything fine. I paid heavy price on parts and labour but very disappointed after hear same noise again today morning which i was listening from one year purchase of this car... Sonata 3.3l v6 ....
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I'm at my place in Florida 1,000 miles from home, and when I started the car in a mall parking lot, there was some grinding metallic noise for a few seconds and I couldn't get it into first or reverse and the clutch pedal was way down. I was able to get going in 2nd and eventually the clutch was back to normal and I could get 1st and R. What happened? Broke some fingers in the pressure plate? Seems to run fine now but have a 1,000 mile ride ahead in the morning.
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I recently bought a 2006 Hyundai Sonata 3.3 V6. Had another issue related to the rear wheel, which I fixed. Today, I changed the oil filter on the car (along with the oil). I have heard this engine noise before, but with the cover off it appears a little louder. It's basically a ticking sound.
The engine uses no oil, and has no other leaks. It has some noise on startup for maybe 1-2 seconds (like a loud lifter or something, but it goes away in less than 2 seconds, and at the same time the oil light goes out). I changed the filter today because I was told that a leaky gasket could result in the Filter not retaining oil between starts, causes some minor knock for a few seconds.
But anyway, this other ticking noise seems to be regular, regardless of condition. I have heard some people say that some engine noise is normal for this engine, but how about this?
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So for the last few days my blinkers have been going crazy. I use them for 1 or 2 seconds and they stay on for 35-40 seconds and go on and off. I am not for sure but they also seem extra loud as well.
I check from the outside of the car and all of the signals seem to work. I know in some cars before your light burns out your blinker will seem to clicker faster but mine is insane.
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After starting my truck the dash warning lights (oil, battery, brake, low fuel) stay lit and flicker for 20-30 seconds then go out with the exception of the battery light. It remains dimly lit for 2-3 minutes before finally going out. The battery and alternator have tested OK. I cleaned the battery ground connections andreplaced the check light relay. Still the same situation. '86 Nissan Hardbody Pickup ....
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I had a Viper 5701 installed and it only stays on for 20 seconds then shuts down as if I was pressing the brake pedal. What is the work around? The hand held computer says the alarm is set for 12 minutes.
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