Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Car Not Supplying Enough Voltage For Evap Solenoid To Operate (P0449)
Sep 21, 2014
My check engine light kept coming on, and the mechanic read the code as P0449. The Charcoal Canister and Solenoid Vent Valve unit was replaced; however, the check engine light returned with the same P0449 code. We removed the Solenoid unit and applied 12 volts directly to the unit to make sure the part was functional. Applying and deapplying the 12 volts caused the solenoid to open and close the valve. Returning this unit to the vehicle, the Solenoid did not function at all when the car was turned on or off multiple times. We checked the voltage from the two pin feed going into the Solenoid, and it was only outputting 4 volts, not enough for the Solenoid to open or close the valve. How to fix this low voltage problem so that the Solenoid Vent Valve in the Evap System functions again.
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I have a 2009 Sonata GLS 2.4. According to this site, it's NF model. It's been a great car, and I was able to take care of it's simple maintenance(oil, brakes, etc). However, started late last year, I'm getting the CEL. And every time I pump gas, it would burp and overflow even if I pump only 1-2 gallons. So since then, I pump real slow (and it will still burp, but less). So you can imagine how long it takes me to pump 13-14 gallons.
I read the code, and it's coming back as P0449.
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I have a 2009 Sonata (base model) with about 60,400 miles (just out of warranty). My check engine light came on, I drove for about 25 miles or so and it went away. I still took it to a shop to get the code reading, it came back as "P0449 - EVAP Vent Valve Solenoid Circuit". Guy at the shop told me I can continue to drive without any issues but I should get it checked with a dealer. The engine check light is not on anymore.
I took it the dealer and they told me they will charge me $145 to run another diagnostic (they can not use the one I have from Auto Zone). And then on top of that, whatever they need to do, they will charge for that. And since I am out of warranty (barely) I will have to pay out of my pocket.
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4 years ago, I also had a check engine light. I brought the car to a mechanic and he just cleaned the parts and the engine light went away. I was still under warranty then. Below is my original post:
Removing Canister Close Valve and Fuel Filter
Today, I have a P0449 code. Something is clogged again. I am now out of warranty because the Canadian emissions warranty isn't as good as the ones in the US. The gas pump keeps shutting off when I pour gas.
What the most likely culprit is? I may try to replace the part myself if is easy enough.
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Where the EVAP canister purge solenoid is located on a 1999 Ford Windstar with the 3.8 engine?? I replaced the vent valve that is located on the canister itself but cannot locate the purge solenoid valve.
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Where are the canister and solenoid valve located, above the tank? 2009 Sonata 2.4L ....
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I have a 2004 Santa Fe 2.4L the check engine light is on and says about the evap canister solenoid. I am trying to located it but I can't find it. So, where would it be located at so I can take it apart and where is the Canister located as well...
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My 2007 Sonata continues to throw a P0456 code, small evap leak detected, gas cap is tight, getting ready to check the evap hoses. The question I have is the evap system covered under the emissions warranty at all ?
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My 2009 santa fe with the 2.7 has a check engine light. p2422 evap vent solenoid stuck closed. I replaced the charcoal canister and the light came back on. I replace the solenoid by the throttle body and the light came back on but took longer to set. My wife said that she was having problems filling the tank but when I changed the second solenoid the problem was gone but the light had returned.
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A buddy of mine has a 2003 Ford Ranger Edge V6 3.0L, he got the code P1450 the other day and asked me to look at it. Got all the info on what it could be but where ex actually is the EVAP canister and CV solenoid located? And what is the problem?
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I have a 1999 Ford Explorer with the V-6 SOHC that is stuttering and stalling when I try to accelerate. A very slight acceleration will get the vehicle moving, but anything coming close to normal gas pedal pressure causes immediate stuttering and/or stalling. Check Engine light came on when problem started yesterday.
Where is the EVAP System Canister Vent Solenoid? I bought a code reader after beating my head against the truck all afternoon and got code "P1451 EVAP System Canister Vent Solenoid Circuit Malfunction". My Haynes book says on the left side frame rail... can't find anything along there that looks like it (based on picture from Rock Auto for replacement part) and found some people online talking about it being in the engine compartment on the passenger side...
Just crawled all over the truck and I think I found the charcoal canister, but couldn't trace it back to the vent solenoid... There was something right next to the canister, but again, it looked nothing like the replacement part listed on Rock Auto...
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CEL came on after a couple of driving cycles showing code P0456 (evap emission control system very small leak detected)............. car drives fine has good gas mileage.....
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I'm not too knowledgeable about wiring and electrical systems. I'm getting a P1451 code (EVAP Control System Canister Vent Solenoid Circuit Malfunction) on my 99 4.2. I've read that it could be a bad solenoid, bad wiring, or a blown fuse. So far I've;
- checked (and changed) the related fuse
- checked the wiring for damage at the connector
- checked voltage at the connector (12 volts)
- checked the resistance at the solenoid (around 60 ohms)
- actuated the solenoid with a 9V battery (can hear it opening and closing)
I haven't had a chance to check the wiring all the way back up the frame to yet, but I noticed that the ground at the trailer wiring harness has broken off the frame. Would this potentially cause a fault in the upstream wiring? I'm going to slap a new connector on and bolt it back down anyway, but as it's Labour (Labor) Day I'll have to wait for the stores to be open tomorrow.
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I have a 2008 Chrysler Sebring Touring (Convertible). Recently, out of the blue, the heater quit supplying hot air. I took it to my local mechanic who
1) replaced the thermostat and
2) replaced the blend air door motor.
After 4 days I was told it was fixed. Now it blows only "warmish" air on the driver's side and cold air on the passenger's side.
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I have had this Elantra for over 7 years now and it has given me faultless service - up to now. Some months ago I noticed that when I operated my personal locking key, the drivers side lock would not operate. More recently, this problem seems to be getting worse. Its not a problem leaving the car as I can manually operate the switch but opening the front door requires me to crawl in from the rear door to unlock it. When I operate the door lock with the key, I see the lock attempting to move but remains in its position. I've tried several alternatives like using my wife's keys but the system remains resolute. By the way, where is the antenna that receives signals from the key?
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I've got an 06 F-250 and out of nowhere the drivers side window does not operate. I don't hear the motor operating (or trying to operate.) So I opened the trim piece and removed and reinserted the plug for the two forward switches, no change.
Surprisingly we are expecting more rain in So Cal in the middle of April tonight and I'm wondering how to by pass the switch, to at least get the window in the up position to keep the weather and the natives out.
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2016 LTD 7200 miles. Been to the dealer twice for routine service (oil change both times, tire rotation and air filter change as well second time. First and last time they are changing air filters; what a freakin rip off)
So this noise occurs at very low speed (1st or second gear) and very consistently occurs when lightly pressing the throttle and usually occurs when releasing as well. It sounds like a clock tick and in fact sounds very similar to the shift interlock solenoid sound you get when tapping the brake while in park.
Furthermore it doesn't happen from a cold start. Car has to be driven a bit and brought up to normal operating temperature; for example I can't reproduce the noise at all first thing in the morning before heading to work, but can with no problem once I'm at work creeping though the parking garage. So I think this rules out any gear slack or other such mechanical slop that could make noise when load is first applied and then again when released. Also it's not audible with the windows down. Cabin has to be very quiet to notice (again, like that shift interlock solenoid tick).
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Wife's car had a check engine light this morning, code is PO456, small evap leak, I took gas cap off cleaned the filler neck and solenoid the gas cap seal, and reset the light. I filled her car up on Sunday (2011 Sonata 2.4 80000 miles). Where to go next if light comes back on? Purge valve ?
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After not driving the car for over a week, the battery was dead and I discovered that I had not fully shut the trunk. I hooked up a charger/maintainer with the battery still installed in the car and it has been on for 48+ hours and it still shows as charging. I have several of the chargers and use them on other cars/motorcycles where they work as expected. I've never had one take this long to indicate charged.
I'm sure others are using maintainers and wondering if it is normal that the charger does not indicate full charge. Voltage with charger running is ~14.7 and ~13.7 unhooked. I believe it is a 4a charger.
What is normal voltage when fully charged and what is minimum voltage to crank starter?
Should have measured the voltage before hooking up the charger to know low it was......
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Just this morning, my 2006 Azera Limited would not cycle on the A/C. I found that the 10 amp fuse for the A/C solenoid had blown. I replaced the fuse. The A/C worked perfectly, blew ice cold air, for about 15 minutes. Then the fuse blew again. Replaced the fuse again, the compressor clutch kicked and started to turn compressor and fuse blew yet again. Replaced fuse a third time, blew immediately. And now tonight, the dash lighting will not go into "night mode" - will not dim the instrument cluster fully, and the night illumination on controls will not light. Also, randomly, the fog light indicator will not light - even though the fog lights are on and illuminated. Not sure all these things are related, but it seems like some sort of major failure is occurring somewhere. I looked for shorted or burnt wiring under the hood, couldn't find any. Other than taking the car to Hyundai and paying two arms and a leg? I have seen posts for other Hyundai models where the compressor wiring shorts against the compressor - but so snug down there I haven't been able to check it properly yet. Also, another post suggested the clutch coil may be bad? But if it was, would it kick in and run properly for 15 minutes? I'm mechanically inclined, have done a lot of work myself on cars for over 20 years, but this one stumps me...
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I have a 2006 Hyundai Azera that is coming up with the error code P2422. I have figured out that the code relates to the EVAP system. I have cleared the code a few times but it always comes back within a few kilometers. Also I have started to notice at some gas stations that the gas stops pumping around every $5 i put in the tank. This only happens at some gas stations but not all that i go to.
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