Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Can Oil Temp Sensor Knock Out Airbags?
Jul 14, 2014
I went to Jiffy Lube and got an oil change, fuel system cleaning and cabin air filter replacement & sanitizing. I drive an '09 Sonata with 112K miles. When the car came out, I pulled away and noticed that the airbag symbol on my dashboard was lit and the center console was flashing that my passenger did not buckle their seat belt (I didn't have a passenger or anything on the seat). I went back in and after they looked at it, they said they couldn't find anything that could've happened at anytime and was a "horrible coincidence."
Hyundai ran a diagnostic tests and one of the 4 things that came back was B1389 (in addition to B1516, B1324 and B1515). B1389 signifies "Oil Temperature Sensor Circuit Failure." If the guy changing the oil damaged this (does this even get touched on an oil change), could that have offset the sensors for the airbags?
I just don't see how they done the above listed work and coincidentally my airbags are all deactivated afterwards. I'm reading a lot of bad reviews online, including quite a few for NOT putting oil back in the engine after the change.
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My engine light came on the other day and the code given was P0711, which is the transmission temperature sensor. I went to the dealer and bought one so I can quickly replace it. My question is, where is that sensor located? My haynes book doesn't even mention it. I called the dealer and was put on eternal hold.
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I'm looking for the location of the knock sensor I can't find it?
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I just purchased a 2006 GS300 AWD w/115k. Started car on lunch hour to find check engine / check VSC lights on. Ran codes to find P0333 Knock Sensor code. Vehicle seem to run perfectly fine, but now that the light is on, it is definity spark knocking under acceleration. This is my first Lexus / Toyota product, so I am unfamiliar with the common problems or fixes. Are knock sensor replacements common?
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I have a 2006 VW Jetta with 92K miles and just a couple of days ago my check engine late came on and when i took to an auto store to check the code, it came as P0332, Knock sensor 2 in bank 2 is faulty. Three things have happened all around the same time and I am not sure if they are related and are just coincidence.1.Check engine light came on.2. I have noticed after that, my car RPM has dropped, idles at about 600-700RPM and when trying to accelerate, it tops at 3000 RPM and feels like the motor cuts off at that point and I have to step off the gas and the car runs ok again, but cant go over 3000.
Had trouble getting on the interstate due to this and thought the car was going to stall, but it didn't. just had to back off the gas and let it run, It did go up to the speed that I wanted, but seems like it wont go past the 3000 RPM point.3. My fuel gauge, drops to empty when it reaches the half way mark on the meter. It stays at the correct level when I start and keep the car in idle, but when I start moving, it drops to empty. When I fill up the tank, it goes all the way to F, and after the car goes the usually of about 190-210 miles, when It reaches the half full level, the meter drops to zero, so have been using my trip odometer to drive after that.
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I have a 2011 Sonata with 30000 miles. It started shifting funny. It would jump when you put it in drive and shift strangely in all gears. Called the dealer to make an appointment, cancelled as I couldn't get off work. In the meantime, car stopped doing this.
After a while, this started again. Stopped by a shop that offered free code check, the code is P0711 Transmission Fluid Temp Sensor. They said your fluid is overheating and we don't know why, we have to take the transmission off to find out the cause.
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What the heck? I have not heard of an over heated O2 sensor. I know they have an extra wire in them for a heater element but I have two temp codes indicating the failure and a permanent code as well.
I know its under warranty but what a weird failure. Overheating...Guess Ill be making that appointment at service earlier than I expected.
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I bought my sonata with about 48,XXX miles about 2 months ago, and now it has 52,500 (im a student - dont drive much). Anyways, whenever i start my car up and drive down the road, when the car shifts in to third, i hear a slight knock. almost like a little gong - metal on metal.
Once it does it the first time, it doesnt do it anymore. Im guessing temperature could have a factor?
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I noticed that recently my 2007 Sonata (108k Miles) is making a knocking sound when it shifts into second gear. It happens only when I back out of my garage and drive down the street and the car is cold. After that there is no more noise, and the transmission is shifting through the gears smoothly.
I recently replaced the transmission fluid, about 5k miles ago and I used the recommended type.
I read other postings with people having the same problem, and in those cases they pointed to the ABS self-check which occurs when you first start out. But this is definitely not my case as the noise is coincidental with shifting into 2nd gear and it only does it when the transmission is cold.
Could this be caused by the fluid temperature or maybe because the fluid has not had a chance to circulate through the transmission and fill all the cavities? Its rather strange thought that I just noticed it in the last month or so, if that were the case I should have had this problem before.
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Recently got quite a noticable clunk/knock from the front driver side of my '10 Sonata with the 2.4.
Only happens at low speeds, most notably in parking lots.
My best guess is a stabilizer link or a ball joint.
Took a video to explain the sound I am hearing.
Sonata front end clunk - YouTube ......
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2008 3.3L 77,800 miles (approx). Bought this car as a replacement for my totaled 2006 back in May 2011. I have noticed on morning starts or hot starts after car has sat for about 30 min, a 'Rod knock" sound that quits exactly at the same time the oil light goes out. I bought this car with 60K on it, with all 60K maintenance items done by dealer. I have since replaced oil on 5K intervals, have used 5w-30, 5w-20. Genuine Hyundai filters and one Fram cartridge. Nothing has changed. The car runs ok, other than horrible gas mileage ( average 2.8 LESS than my '06 under same conditions and verified by manual calculations). While the car runs ok, the noise unnerves me every time i hear it. Once i get lights out on oil pressure it never is heard again until the next start. Is this something I need to be concerned with? I had a sample of the oil analyzed at 65k, and came back good.
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I just discovered a flat on my 2006 Sonata (4 cylinder - 93k miles) - I changed it and put the temporary spare on - as soon as I got in and started it, the ABS light and the ESC off light came on. Is that normal? I plan to get the tire fixed tomorrow and to put it back on - just curious why those came on.
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I got my car back finally and on the way down the belt way i started sliding around a big turn and I get home to see my temp gauge way up and all the coolant went all over my engine .
I took it to a shop the did pressure test and that was fine, But the also found jell around the thermostat. The other thing they said is that it had air bubbles in it too. They said exhaust bubbles. But when they ran it it didn't heat up any more. They said its the early stages of blown head gasket ..
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I have an '06 F350 dually with a 6.0 diesel. I bought this used about 5 years ago and for the most part have loved it. i would always smile on the inside when i heard people bash the 6.0...i thought i got lucky....until today.
140k miles. recent oil change. all is swell...until this morning. Stick in key and turn it. glow plug indicator comes on...all lights come on for a few second....wrench, abs, dtc etc....wrench shuts off...glow plug light comes on...4 or 5 seconds later wrench light comes back on....turn key and NO CRANK.
All fuses are fine...starter cranks if i jump the solenoid...but it won't start. Miles to empty and everything else is just dashes hit the OBD and it says "engine sensor data error"/ "trans temp error" ...
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I recently got a Sonata from my parents when they moved to Pennsylvania. It's a 2007 with the 2.7 liter engine. It has had low oil for some time, so when I got it (last week) I put more in, up to but not above the full line.
It has had now for just a couple of days a very bad rattle, which is barely audible (but still IS audible) at idle and gets very severe during and after acceleration. It remains for some time even after the gas is no longer being pressed, then subsides a bit. I diagnosed it as knocking, but just today the check engine light came on and the rattle got louder.
I don't have another car to drive and I have class in five hours. Should I drive it or call a cab?
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