Sonata NF (2006-10) :: CEL Came On When Driving After Restart - Code P2189 And P0153
Dec 3, 2013
I have a 2009 Sonata 3.3, 80,000 miles. After getting fuel I stopped about 2-3 miles away, when driving after a restart threw a CEL. Went to autozone and they gave these codes (P2189 and P0153) and were telling me possibly O2 sensor or Vacuum leak. Engine seems to run fine. Not sure if related but while fueling, gas pump was sputtering and I thought oh no. Wonder if I got bad gas and if it could throw these codes? I have since threw a bottle of Techron in and drove about 5-7 miles. I have had major work done with Timing covers twice. So it is possible a line may have came off but that was a few thousand miles ago. I pulled the cover and looked for any visible hoses off, did not see any. Don't want to spray with carb cleaner since it is dark out. I am still under the 100,000 warranty, so not sure if this would even be covered or not or whether I am doing irreparable damage. I saw other posts mentioning PVC issues?
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I have a 1998 Mercury Mountaineer AWD 5.0L V8. I've been getting the P0153 code off and on for about 3 months.
I read on another forum that bad gas caps can cause the problem, well, I've replaced the gas cap with a new OEM one and that seemed to stem the tide a bit.
As it often seems to pop back up when the tank is 1/4 or less, I fill the tank, and that works some. But it still happens.
This Thursday, 2 days after I changed the spark plug wires, it began misfiring on the #6 cylinder and the P0153 code came back and stayed on.
I swapped the #5 & #6 plugs, cleaned up the area and reinstalled the wires with dielectric grease. No more misfire, but the code did not clear.
So, I also changed the O2 sensor that kept kicking off the code. I used the OEM, Bosch O2 sensor.
I started it and it ran beautifully. Next day, I was driving and that damn code came back. I stopped and had breakfast, it was gone.
Off and on all the rest of the day, disappearing even while I was driving
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1997 f250 LD pick up 5.4L engine 131000 miles
Here is my story week ago code came on p0153 bank 2 sensor 1
Slow response ... now I been reading around and some people say bank 2 is passenger side other say it is drivers side or bank 1 is where cylinder 1 is , the point is I'm confused here for bank locations and sensor locations .....
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I have a 2008 model 2.7 v6 with 80000 Km, and I would like to share my experience with several issues:
- Random misfire: brought the car to Hyundai, very bad response. I bought online the wiring of the spark plugs (according to them that was the reason of the misfire) and they installed it, did not improve. The car was still showing error code after clearing, and the fuel consumption at an average of 23L/100km.
- I then decided to change all the 6 spark plugs, no difference. The workshop told me the coils were in perfect condition. Still having a message like this: "ignition error on 2 or more spark plugs".
- I did a complete cleaning with contact spray of the MAF sensor.
- I bought online a couple of ignition coils, being original Hyundai ones, and changed them. When installing them i realized the existing ones were not original Hyundai and had a small marking, making me think they were recycled or chinese stuff.
- Having done that, the OBDII shown two more error codes: P341: error on camshaft position sensor, P2189: fuel idle (too much air, maybe caused by the first one). Changed both camshaft position sensors and then big change in the behaviour, more response, throttle, better gear switching.
- I so concluded that the 4 remaining coils have to be changed and ordered another time 4 of them online. OBDII showing now only one error code: random misfire. The engine going much better than all i got before.
- I have decided to take advantage of this order and also ordered a new TPS (seeing here that it was a common problem) and a Crankshaft position sensor (in order to prevent any other issue).
- I also changed previously 2 downstream o2 sensors that were giving an error related to emission. Emission here are not strictly controled so it is not a big issue.
My question is, what in all that sensors can more likely make my car burn 23L/100km??? Asian cities are quite similar to american cities, lots of highways. This consumption compared to what you describe is way over the normal one isn't it? I was assuming the ignition problem was the responsible, am i right?
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I have a 2006 Sonata, 6 cylendar. Today, the Check Engine light came on while driving home from work (note: there was no difference in performance of the car).
I went to the nearest Auto Zone to pull the code. The code reader came back with P0110. The guy at Auto Zone ran it through their computer and Hyundai didn't even come up in the list of code definitions for P0110. However, for all the other makes and models, this code is for the IAT.
The guy at Auto Zone, just for fun, tried to look up an air intake sensor for a Hyundai Sonata, 2006, and was told that this car does not come equipped with an IAT sensor. What caused the Check Engine light to come on and what do I need to have repaired?
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My 2010 Elantra stalls while driving, even on the highway, and then won't restart right away. It has been at the dealer for a week now, and they have determined that the ECU is the problem.
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My 2004 Lexus RX 330 with 116,000 miles has a check engine light on. The code was P2198, the problem: Bank2 Sensor1. I replaced the O2 sensor myself, easy, at $180. I erased the code and the check engine was back on the next day. Not sure what to do next.
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I have a 07 Sonata V6 that misses only when warmed up, runs fine when cold. code p0301 for cylinder one misfire, I have replaced the plug, coil and injector for cylinder one and still the same. idles and runs perfect when cold, dead miss on number one cylinder when warmed up.
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What this code refers to in my 06 sonata v6.
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Got a cel yesterday, got it checked out it read a P2096 fault code. The car runs fine, cleared the code it came back later in the day.
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I have a 2007 GLS. Within the past year I had about 4 or 5 difficult starts. Just recently I got a CEL with cod P0011. I replaced the OCV as that is the usual culprit. Within 6 miles of clearing the CEL, I am still getting the same CEL. I am wondering if the problem is either the wiring harness or the Camshaft Position Sensor.
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Sonata 07 CRDI 103 KW. Problem started yesterday when chek engine light came on, after a while it went of and back on. Today it went of and went to diagnosis. Diagnosis shoved fault code P0401 something with EGR.
What could cause the problem is it valve or something else?
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The code p0304 pop up last week, I have 50800 miles on my car, I unplug the spark plug and the ignition coil from the cylinder 4 and when i start the car I can there is a spark so the wire the spark plug and the ignition coil is good... I changed the fuel injecter with the one from cylinder 3 I cleared the code and it came back?
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so i just bought my '06 sonata 2.4 lt 4 cyl and it had problems with idling when i plugged into the computer i got a p0101 error code saying there was an air flow problem... took it to the dealer since it is still under warranty and for $100 they told me it was my mass air flow sensor and it would be 4 days and $370 more to replace.
I was able to buy the part from napa and replaced the old one (very simple process) and at the direction of the dealer i was told to disconnect my battery for 15 or so minutes to clear the computer data.
When i powered everything back up the car idles and runs fine but i am now getting a check engine light with p0102 lower voltage than expected from the mass airflow sensor AND a new light popped on "ESC OFF" the button will not turn it back on and i cant think of anything I did would have turned it on?
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2007 with 3.3L at 30k miles (bought new and with regular oil changes) starting throwing p0018's intermittently. No noticeable difference in way the car drives: idle seems fairly normal (only once recently felt the idle briefly stumble at a red light), fuel consumption regular, no power problems. There has been a engine tapping sound at low speeds only heard until the engine warms up after a couple of miles (I'm in Florida, temp is regular in the 70-80's), and the sound is not evident during the start-up, only while accelerating slowly.
On occasion, with hard acceleration, the "ESC 0ff" light comes on, not affected by the ESC off switch, and stays off after one key turn.
Brought to Hyundai dealer who, same day, requested doing an oil/filter change (Firestone had done a change 900 miles/3 months prior) claiming that a wrong oil filter could cause blocked oil galleys. They did the change (and also, no charge, repaired a valve cover leak) and 6 days later called to tell me the car was fine. No mention of the car having been low on oil or evidence of sludging. Also, no mention of whether or not the filter that was replaced was the incorrect filter for the vehicle. (I called Firestone and they claim they regular work with Hyundai to ensure proper filters are used). No mention of why they kept the car for an additional 5 days after the oil change before calling either (except for repairing the valve cover leak with a rocker cover gasket), and although their invoice indicated that they drove the car 5 miles, it was evident from the invoice that the mile in/miles out were the same. I did notice that there was about 2-3 gallons of fuel consumption though when I picked the car up.
6 miles from the dealer after pickup (2 key turns) CEL returns, with same code. I have now driven the car about 100 miles in the last 20 days with the CEl going off and on 4 times now, and each time the same code. I have never had the CEL come on (or go off) while driving, only at start-up. (Longest trip has been 10 miles, top speed 50mph, so a lot of key turns). The longest the CEL has stayed off was for a 30 mile span. The tapping sound mentioned above continues too.
I'm hesitating returning to the dealer. The 10 yr warranty might be a problem for a variety of reasons, and I realise finding the fix for this code could get expensive. But I do want to know what the dealer found out doing their GDS (and via eyes on inspection) and nothing was mentioned on the invoice besides the gasket leak. I'm especially concerned about the timing chain and tensioner.
Is it acceptable to make an appointment with the service manager to find out what they ruled out (and then take that information to a regular mechanic)? Given the problem is regularly intermittent over the last 100 miles, is it still possible that something might be seriously wrong with the engine and damage might be done to the engine by driving it? When I first brought the car to the dealer, they said they couldn't do anything with it because the CEL had gone out. Fortunately, within a mile from the dealer the CEL returned and they took it in. Presently, the light is out again.
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I have a 2006 sonata v6 3.3 that the speedometer is not working at all and is throwing the code p0708 (Transmission Range Sensor Circuit, high input)I have replaced the speed sensor that is under the intake air box and the problem remains the same..
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I've a 2006 sonata 3.3 with 100k miles on it and recently it started going to limp mode leaving me in 3rd gear only after scanning it I've found code p0743 (TCC selonoid open/short circuit) what to check from here or can share any wiring diagrams for this particular circuit I'm not sure where to start. where is the wiring harness for that is located ? is it in the oil pan ? and if I wanted to pull the selonoid itself to check would it be something I can do myself ?
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I have never had a car with automatic transmission that did not also have low gear or others besides overdrive. We are going to the Rockies and I would like to know how to get my car to use lower gears for accent and decent without over revving or constant gear shifts that I expect with the normal drive gear.
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3 days ago I bought 2006 sonata GL (I4) from a guy. He showed me his service record and he had his oil change right before he sold the car to me. However, I notice a fairly big oil drop on the ground after I drove for a while and parked. I tried three times and it all dropped.
One thing that I noticed was that the oil was dropping from the shield on the bottom of the car. So I looked into the engine and I have noticed bunch oil oil wet spot around the oil filter hole on the shield. I have Wix oil filter currently. Is the leak coming from the filter?
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My 06 sonata drop into neutral while driving. Any clues as to why this would happen?
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We have a 2009 Sonata with barely 50k miles - always garaged. It has been a great car but recently has come up with a couple of quirks.
I was driving last week and heard a loud "pop" behind me. Really loud..... I pulled over and found that the left rear window was missing!
I took the car to a local auto glass place and they found the missing window down in the door, I really though that it had fallen out and actually went back to the spot on the road where the noise happened and looked for it.
Anyway, the glass shop lifted the window back in place but had little interest in making the power part work again.
Now, I have had power windows fail on other cars before but they always got stuck, I have never had one "disappear". Would this be a safety issue that Hyundai might cover?
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