Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Bucking Noise When Idling With The Window Down
Sep 16, 2015
My 2006 Sonata has the 3.3L V6. It's been remarkably trouble free for over 201000 miles now, but has recently started having a "bucking" issue. It first it was pretty subtle. My wife noticed it too, and we thought maybe we were causing it. It progressively got stronger, and I started noticing some noise when idling with the window down. Also the check engine light started coming on. I took it to the dealer. They said the cam position sensor was bad. The noise was caused by something else, which they fixed.
To make a long story short, the car is now back at the dealership for the third time in the last few weeks. It will run great for a while, then suddenly start "bucking". The other day it died on me in heavy traffic. Fortunately I was close to the dealership so I took it back over there (second time). I got it back Monday of this week. It ran great on the drive home. Tuesday morning the bucking started before I could even get out of the driveway, so I drove my truck to work. Today (Wednesday) I drove it back to the shop. It ran fine the entire way. Check engine light is back on.
I have really enjoyed this car. Had it for about 8 years now. Full Synthetic oil every 5000 miles and a filter. I had really hoped to turn over 300,000 with it.
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I didn't know my car was low on oil and the oil light never came on. The car has been working flawlessly till I got home and I heard a really weird knocking noise and it's a light knocking noise when the car is idling but when I press the gas pedal the noise becomes louder. The noise sounds like its internal it's coming from behind the engine near the exhaust manifold where the spark plugs are located. I have changed the spark plugs and drained and added new oil into the car but that still didn't fix the issue. The car has about 129,625 miles on it and is in mint condition buying a new engine would be pointless knowing that the value of the new engine is basically the value of buying another used car.
Car: Hyundai Sonata 2008 GLS 2.4l
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So today, when I rolled down my passenger window (2007 Sonata GLS) to talk to someone, I heard a popping sound and the window refused to roll back up. I got the car home and started tearing into the door panel (okay, not literally). By viewing different threads here, I have the door panel off, outside handle is off, all screws loosened (including the 3 for the door latch) and am trying to get the inner sheet metal panel off.
From everything I've read, you need to roll the window up the whole way in order to get the inner panel off; however I cannot get the window up the whole way! By lifting up on it, I have it about 2/3 raised, but it won't budge any more. I have been able to see that the window cable is broken (which explains why the window won't raise), but am at a loss on how to proceed. I'm leery of trying to force the window up any more. I'm tempted to try to pry the inner panel back enough to get the two bolts holding the window loose, but don't want to force *that* either.
So, how to get the window all the way up? And/or the inner door panel off?
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My radio has great FM reception except when I turn on the rear wndow defroster. When I do, the radio sounds faint and crackly as though I were listening to a very distant station. As soon as I turn off the defroster, the reception comes back to normal. This is on a '09 Sonata limited - this did not happen on my previous '08 Azera and '06 Sonata LX...
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I recently picked up a 2001 Nissan sentra. This car sat since around 2010. I guess the previous owner had a lot of work done by the dealer a year or so ago and it looks it, brake pads etc. are brand new, a couple other things look new but he's not a car guy in the slightest and can't find the receipt nor will the dealer give him one due to computer system change and I actually tried with them myself, that's correct.
Anyway, the check engine light is on and bringing it home we had reports of black smoke out the exhaust. It also felt like it wanted to stall at times when stopped but it never did. Well, I ran it a while and at times it seemed like it wanted to clear up, at others it didn't but the light stayed on and what not. I scanned it and it claimed the O2 sensor 1 bank 2 was bad so I replaced it.
It didn't make any difference so I cleaned the Mass Air flow sensor. Again no good it's the same. Here's the funny thing though, it's great first thing in the morning usually. As the day goes on and as we drive it, it gets worse. What I can try/change next?
I'm almost leaning on electrical issue where it gets worse as the day goes on and dew dries off. I'm new to Nissan's, I like the car and really want to work this issue out. I did replace the fuel pump when I got the car, and have run sea foam through and actually on that tank of gas it ran pretty good but that's worked itself out now.
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I was driving this morning after doing a brake job (nothing to do with the problem, just anger coming out) made it about 10 kms and noticed when i took my foot off the accelerator, the heater fan powered down a bit, and back up when I gave it gas...noticed a knocking sound from the engine...pulled into a gas station and put it in park. After a hard time idling, it cut out. I started it again and the idle was not good at all. kept cutting out. Got it going and made it home with the same sort of power issue. Tried to start it a couple times and same issue with the idle. Sputtering quite a bit and noticed quite a bit of exhaust coming out. When I backed it out of the garage, I noticed a small puddle of oil.
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When coming to a stop in my 2007 Hyundai Sonata GLS with a 2.4 4 cyl engine all of a sudden you get something that acts like the car is jerking or surging or rough idling or something. Hard to tell exactly which but if I put it in neutral and rev the engine a little it smooths out. Only happens when coming to a stop. What caused it?
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I have purchased a 2007 Sonata GLS that was involved in a front-end collission. The car has been rebuilt with and now the engines heats with the temperature going up to the red zone when idling after approximately 40 minutes of driving or sitting for 20 minutes or so in very heavy traffic. It is completely fine when driving at about 20-30mph, and even if it came to the red zone and we start driving it, it cools down within a minute or so.
I have read other related threads and tried to read everything that google could find related to this issue. I don't see any blown fuses and or wires not connected / loose. My battery went out yesterday but it had 500 CCA (cold cranking amps when my car needed 600, it was replaced yesterday, just in case it works.
So from my investigation, the only thing I have no clue about is the small fuse box located in the engine compartment in front of the main fuse panel. I am including pictures of it. On the cover, it says that it needs two fuses, both 60A, one for AGCS (Active Geometry Controlled System, I believe) and the other one for COOLING.
So even the dealerships in the area don't know what the box is for or at least that's what they say. All I see inside in the box is two black thick wires and they are connected, not even sure what the fuses are for.
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2006 Sonata. I had to remount the drivers window glass which had slipped out of the clamps and fell inside the door.
Afterwards, if using the window auto-up feature, the window reaches the top and reverse back down to about the one-third closed point. Using the normal (non-auto up) it remains properly closed at the top.
My first thought was it needed to be reset by the well documented hold the switch up for at least .2 seconds method. I've done that and it hasn't solved the issue.
There doesn't appear to be any unusual resistance to movement which might activate any 'arm in the window' type safety feature. (if it even exists)
I would also expect that type of thing to work regardless if using auto-up or not anyways.
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I have a 3.3L 2007 Sonata. Within the past month, after first turning it on in the morning, the RPMs shoot up to about 1400 and slowly come down to normal after about 5 minutes. It does this in park and neutral, when I put it into drive it goes down to normal. If I drive it for a mile and put it back into park and neutral, it idles at a normal RPM. If I turn the car off for ten minutes and start it up again, it idles normal at about ~850 RPMs.
After doing a bit of google research, a lot of sites say that this is a normal thing for a cold engine to do. However, the RPMs have never gone that high previously. The check engine light hasn't come on.
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I bought my Sonata new in 2008, it has 55K miles on it.
This morning I put the drivers side window down, no problems, and when I went to close it, there was a grinding noise and the window wouldn't move.
I'm wondering if this would be covered under the 5/60K mile warranty?
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I have a problem with my drivers window, it will only work sometimes. It will just stop working, and to get it working again I have to mess with the window switch, pressing it up and down, up and down, sometimes locking and unlocking the windows a few times will get it to work. There is nothing that I have noticed that makes it start working faster, or stop working, it just decides on its own. I was thinking it might be the window regulator, but I wasn't sure if it would be that because it still works sometime?
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Today I was going to wash my car and rolled my driver's window down on the way there. When I got to the car wash I attempted to roll my driver's side window back up. It nudged ever so slightly up about a quarter inch and then nothing. It had totally stopped. I fiddled with the switch and it would go back down completely but when attempting to roll the window back up it would sometimes not move at all, move ever so slightly or move just about a quarter of an inch and stop. Is it possible to just get the window up manually in order to at least block the elements? I'm at a bit of a loss as to what I should do. I'm tempted to run to the drug store and grab some packing tape to seal the window off.
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So, my driver's side window decided to die on me. When hitting the auto-up botton the window would go up 3/4 of the way and then atomatically go down. This happened the other day and when I tried to do it again, I heard a click. Then the window wouldn't move at all. So, now I hear clicking when hitting the window button, but no motor sounds or window movement.
To me this sounds like a dead motor and not the regulator. Do other's agree? I'd like to purchase just the motor and not both.
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I have a 2009 Hyundai Sonata. About 3 months back I noticed that the driver side window won't come down. When the switch is first depressed, I hear a sound like the motor is trying to kick-in but the window doesn't move.
What might be wrong, what I should look for and instructions.
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So over the last few months I have been having more and more idling and power loss issues with my 2006 V6. When idling she intermittently will try to stall and the rpms will drop below 500 and then spike back up. A large percentage of the time I hear a loud whining sound while driving down the road and I notice that turning off the air conditioner will remove the sound at times.
***what I have done so far**
Idler Pulley
Belt tensioner
sepentine belt
cleaned MAF
Cleaned Throttle body
Throttle Position Sensor
Had car reprogrammed
So I pulled the belt off and checked all the pulleys and did notice some grittiness in the AC pulley (inner) and was wondering if this might be the issue. Attached is a video I uploaded, Video .....
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2008 2.4 GLS auto, 64000 miles
Only taken this car on 2 highway road trips. 2 years ago = 34mpg on 900 mile trip (@36000 miles), last week = 31 mpg, EXACT same trip, this time in December, last time in September. Other difference - slightly perceptible tick noticeable if I stand in front of car idling.
Bought July 2009 (almost 24 months old) @ 32000 miles, oil changes every 3000 miles since, tranny fluid at 60000.
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My 09 Sonata LTD V6 was sometimes idling erratically (revving and slowing) after starting a cold engine. It never happened in the previous 3 winters I have owned it. I took it to the dealer for service and they said an ECM update was just released, described on the invoice as "TSB 10FL002 FOR COLD START ROUGH IDLE".
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Just curious, in comparison to other vehicles, does it seem that the rear window defrost works pretty slow in your Sonata? I park outside and notice it is slower than I would like for it to be in the morning. Heated mirrors work great.
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I have a 2007 4 door Sonata with an electric rear passenger window that will not stay up. I will need to remove the door panel to get to the problem. Any video, or a step by step procedure that would guide to remove the door panel and possibly repair the window?
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I have a 2009 Sonata Limited. The passenger side front window has stopped working. Neither switch works. How to troubleshoot?
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