I have only 42k km or 26 k miles. Brake stops but soft. The brake pedal sink if you apply pressure after a stop. Feels like someone open a valve. The pedal go to very low. I am find the stopping power is poor. Brake fluid is brownish. I hope it is not the master cylinder.
View 20 Replies2001 F-350 / 7.3L / 147K ... What are some symptoms of the master cylinder going out? And is there a such thing as a rebuild kit anymore? The pedal has been getting spongier & spongier over the past months. Truck still stops O.K. but you have to brake earlier than I used to. Pedal can go almost to the floor. Pedal continues to go to floor as pressure is applied. Does not go to floor though.
View 4 RepliesI just put new disc and pads on my girlfriend 2007 elentra and all four little screws broke off the hold the disc so you can work on it but they aren't important apparently.
Heres the problem now the pedal jumps like i have super warped discs on the car doesn't shake or vibrate while driving but then i brake the pedal jumps up and down.
I figured it might have a stuck caliper pin, which I did so I cleaned and lubed them and I have the same problem?
1995 Ford F350 4x4, 7.3 Liter Diesel, A/T, A/C
The brake pedal gradually sinks to the floor while the truck is running while stepping/holding down the brake pedal, then the red brake light comes on in the instrument cluster. When the trucks engine is not running I could pump the pedal to clear the vacuum booster and hold the brake pedal, it stays steady.
So far I have replaced the vacuum pump and brake booster. I also readjusted the rear brakes. The truck stops fine, but the sinking brake pedal just doesn't sound safe.
2006 Camry, intermittently the brake pedal sinks by going a inch or so further than normal. Car still stops and I don't think it is all the way at the floor. It is not very frequent, maybe 5% of the time. When it does occur it always happens on a second pump while slowing to a stop or turn, so the car is always going below 10 mph when it occurs.
Mechanic can find nothing wrong with the brakes themselves or any air in the lines. The fluid level is stable. I am guessing it is either the master cylinder or booster. Is there a way to diagnose which one it might be? Could it be a vacuum leak due to only showing up at low speed?
I don't know whats up with my new truck, its a 04 f250 scsb, 4x4, 5.4l with 61k orig miles on it. Truck will stop on a dime, has NO pedal sinking, but it takes about 3/4 of the pedals travel to apply pressure to the pads and have the truck stop, sometimes if I push the pedal down then let up and push it again the pedal wont travel as far, I just flushed the system today, no air in the lines, is there a bleeder on the abs? truck has 4 wheel abs...
View 14 RepliesI noticed yesterday a sound, like a grinding sound, *sometimes* as I apply the brakes to stop. I'm at 68k. The noise only happens when the brakes are applied so I suspect there is an issue with my brakes again.
Some BACKGROUND info: At around 60k (or 8 months ago roughly), the front pads were replaced after the brakes were squealing and a pulsating brake pedal when stopping. The pads were replaced by a dealer. In addition, both front/rear rotors were turned at the same time. Rear pads had 40% at the time and were not replaced.
Some weeks later the pulsation came back and I went back again and they machined them again. For this current issue I was thinking about taking the car to someplace local (not a dealer) and getting a free brake evaluation of what is going on.
I'm also concerned that all this machining the dealer did to eliminate the pulsation may have decreased the life of the rotors and perhaps they need replacement now.
When coming to a hard stop and downshifting using engine braking, is it normal to have the brake pedal feel like it loses pressure to where the brake pedal pushes down further towards the floor for a split second? What causes that to occur?
View 10 RepliesI just bought a 1995 Geo Tracker 5spd RWD 8valve 4 banger. Test drove beautifully (probably 10-15 mins driving). On the way home after purchasing it, however, it began having some issues, the most prominent being a fluctuation in rpm's when pressure is applied to the gas pedal. For instance, with the clutch pedal in, and the car between gears, when I push on the gas pedal, the rpm's will spike (guessing above 2000 rpm) and then drop (probably under 1000 rpm). It will only do this when gas is applied and when the vehicle is warmed up (10+ mins of driving). It will also do this in first gear when letting off on the throttle. I have been told a various array of parts that could be the problem, such as the thermo gauge, the IAC, tps........the list goes on and on. I was wondering if there were any way to pin point this to a certain part.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1962 ford falcon ranchero. The driver side brake light, goes out when brake pressure is applied, but is on when lights are fully on, but even then brake pressure is applied and goes out. Right brake light is fine. And turn signal on right works. But driver side back light goes out when brake pressure is put on and when turn signal is put for left side. Right makes a turn noise left side doesn't. I recently replaced the turn signal switch. So its brand new. But older wires every where else. No cuts anywhere on wires. Fine. And replaced the bulb also.
View 8 RepliesWhile pushing the gas pedal for acceleration from stop I feel the engine grunts more and then on its smooth. I don't have any lag in acceleration the car moves well. The car is 2008 Sonata 4 Cyl. the mileage is 137000. Is this normal for this mileage or something wrong. When I asked the service center guys, they replied they don't find any issues and everything is fine. It might be due to the mileage on the engine.
View 5 RepliesWhen I press the brake pedal, the car will stop. But if I keep pressing it while the car is stopped, the pedal wants to keep going towards the floor. I have to press hard for it to do this. I have bled the brakes. I've checked the calipers and the hoses for leaks and don't see anything. The master cylinder is topped up and I don't see any fluid underneath it. It doesn't appear to be leaking. The funny thing is, when I turn the engine off and press the pedal, the pedal comes to a stop and doesn't want to move after I pressed on it as hard as I can.
View 2 RepliesMy dad drives an '06 Sonata. And he recently broke a brake line and had gotten it fixed. His current problem is that his brake pedal hasn't returned after getting the line fixed. What can he do to fix that? The pedal is really low and is spongy. And his ABS and ESC lights are also on.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2007 Sonata GLS 4cyl. Anyhow lately my brake pedal is going right to the floor. The brakes seem to work fine, but if I keep constant pressure on the pedal it will slowly go all the way to the floor. My rear rotors and pads have been changed a couple of months ago and I'm pretty sure my front brakes are good. What could be causing this? I also checked underneath the car for leaks and there doesn't seem to be anything leaking underneath.
View 6 RepliesI drive almost all the time in stop and go traffic and my knee hurts because the brake pedal is too high. My wife also noticed that the brake pedal is unusually high. Is there any adjustment I can make to lower the brake pedal?
View 2 RepliesMy Camry XLS have pulsation when brake pedal is applied. The pulsation get increased with the speed and very noticeable at 60 -70 mph.
Is it front or rear break issue ? If you think rotors has to be re-surfacesd should I also change pads ?
This afternoon while I was driving home from work I heard a minor squeak so I put the windows up and the radio off. t I heard my brake pedals chirp. It's a small minor squeak, but I hear it and it's bothering me. Am I over thinking this?
View 20 RepliesMy Sonata 2008 2.4 produces a single click as I press brake pedal, somewhere half way through. You can hear it and feel it with your foot. I think it clicks somewhere inside the hydraulic system of the brake.
View 13 RepliesMy 1987 toyota celica brake pedal is going to the floor when I apply the brakes but not all the time,i checked the pads and shoes they are still good i also bled the brakes, I am thinking it is the master cylinder or maybe the master cylinder needs to be bled.
View 1 RepliesI'm the only owner. Since new the rear brakes have never generated even a fraction of the dust of the front brakes. I have replaced the front and rear pads but never had the rotors turned. The rotors aren't perfectly smooth but they don't have any deep ruts.
Anyway, my brake pedal vibrates when I apply the brakes. And the rear brakes squeak randomly when braking even though there are new pads. I always felt they squeaked because there is not much braking power in the rear.
My Durango stops okay. I'm worried about catastrophic failure because of the vibrating.
So I took the pads off and saw pistons that push caliper against rotor were to far out to install new pads. (rear pads were still intact, both front pads were out when i pumped) So im pumped the brakes thinking it would reset them and alls it did was push the fronts out more.. I noticed fluid leaked out of the pistons after fully pushing them out.
After seeing that pushing the pedal only pushed them out and didn't reset them, i pryed them in with a C wrench. Was quite difficult but managed to do it. Note I only did this on the front pads..
Rear was just fine, piston went back in easily. I filled brake fluid fully and still does it - Now pedal hits the floor when i first hit it and seems very light when braking.