Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Brake Line Rusted And Leaking
Dec 19, 2013
Found out my 2007 Hyundai Sonata V6 GLS needs a new brake line put in. The line rusted and all brake fluid leaked out. I am very surprised that after 7 years and only 103,000 km (about 65,000 miles) the car will need a new brake line put in already. All my other cars have been Japanese and have never experienced premature failure and replacement of brake lines.
Granted, I live in Toronto, Ontario, and this year has been a cold start to winter with lots of aggressive salting. It started to get a little bit warmer the last 2 days which probably accelerated the corrosion from the salt.
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1999 F150 has rusted and leaking steel brake lines. I need to replace all of them but do not know if you have to fabricate them or can you buy the complete kit. I am also confused with the flared end. Have not worked with that type of flare. If they need to be purchased where is the best place to buy them ?
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I replaced a rear rusted brake line a couple of years ago. It rusted where the line met the bracket. I'd never done this before but bought a flare (flaring?) tool and fixed it.
This week the longer line that runs down the length of the truck started leaking. It looks like the line was once held in place by a small bracket just in front of the rear wheel but it wasn't in that bracket anymore. I guess it rubbed against the metal and water/sand rusted it out.
A local garage said they'd need to drop the fuel tank and estimated that it would be several hours (and hundreds of dollars) to do the job. It looks like I might be able to cut the old one out and then fish the new line up through there and replace it.
Also, what is the diameter of the line? It is a 2004 F350. I can certainly cut it out first and then take a piece of it to the local auto parts place to get the replacement line.
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I've discovered a rusted hole leaking oil from the oil pan on my 2006 Sonata GLS 2.4L 4 cylinder.
Trying to find a replacement oil pan but I'm not having any luck online. The oil pan for the 3.3L is for sale everywhere, but not for the 2.4L.
Googling suggested the OEM part number might be 21510-25051 but I can't confirm that?
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I've read that a scan tool is required to bleed the ABS unit. A brake line has rusted out on the vehicle which I can replace, though not looking forward to it. The ABS unit is disabled by pulling the fuse. Do I still need to have a tech bleed the abs system? Of course I will bleed all four lines at the wheel cylinders and calipers.
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When I lost the rear brakes due to a rusted line, naturally the ABS light came on. Will it automatically reset when everything is repaired and working or is there something else that needs to be done?
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On my '97 F250 the rear brake line going to the rear right wheel has a rusted hole. It measures 50" total. Instead of bending a new metal line. I see they have a "poly armor" line that can be bent by hand( no tools needed). I see Autozone has them.
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I have a 2000 dually and the brake line that runs the frame rail finally rusted through. It runs on the same side as the fuel tank. Is it easier to leave the old one in and run a new one along side it? I sure hate to think that I'll have to drop the tank for this.
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My 2000 SD has a brake line that rusted through. The one that runs along the drivers side frame rail. So I need to get new line to replace it. Since I am nowhere near my truck right now, what is the size of the steel line?
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I have heard that the front brakes are separate, and if the rear brakes have a leak and the line is empty, the fronts should still work. Is this likely to be true? If I drive the truck will I be able to stop with the fronts alone (assuming they will still work?)
I plan to drop the truck off late tonight when there is likely to be no traffic, but thought I would ask.
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So I had a stuck caliper on the driver rear side. I pushed the piston back and checked everything to make sure all was in working order. After some though and reading about the calipers getting stuck which old brake lines, I decided to upgrade the line with the Russell stainless steal lines.
I got all the lines put in but I seem to have fluid leaking on the passenger side fitting which I can't seem to get to stop. I put the old line back in but it is still leaking. I am not sure what I need to do or check to get it to stop. It seems to be leaking from the thread area. I checked the fittings and they don't look cross threaded so I don't understand why it may be happening.
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I have a problem. I have a nylon return fuel line that is SHOOTING out fuel at the quick connect at the fuel pump. See video: [URL] ....
How do I repair? I think the o-rings in the quick connect went bad. I'm thinking to dip the connector in hot water to soften up the nylon, take the old connector off, and put a new connector on. What size connector I need?
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I have a 04 camry and this car leaks gas after i pump about line before the full line. What do i need to do?!
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Today i came back from a long drive around 250km. After 1 hour i again started the car it drove well for 2 minute then suddenly engine conked off wasn't restarting i knew it was a fuel related issue. Then I smelled petrol got out of the car saw pool of petrol but it wasn't leaking i removed the panel in my boot and to my horror i found the fuel line connector was unattached to the fuel pump.
So whenever if i would switch on ignition it will spill fuel everywhere. I reattached it and got a nice locking sound tried to pull it but it was really secure. What should i do?Get the connector replaced? An year ago i got my fuel pump replaced could this be because it was not connected properly?
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What's the best way to changed a EGV valve on a 1996 Ranger? The metal line coming from the exhaust manifold to the EGV valve, is seriously rusted on both ends. It looks like if I don't heat the metal line, the line will just round out, what's the best way to tackle this job.
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Noticed Tranny Fluid under the Ex last week and after further inspection, it is definitely the lines rusted, by the end of the week it was leaking pretty good with the motor running. Picked up the lines from Ford and bought a 5 gal pail of MerconV from NAPA. Going to replace the tranny fluid after I replace the lines. 109k on the truck and never serviced the trans. Never had an issue with this truck, shifts nice and tight. Found Mark W's Fluid Changing procedure which looks pretty simple.
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07 Camry LE USA built. The front line that goes down behind the radiator then towards the rear under the engine has started leaking at the bottom of the horseshoe bend. The bottom is rusted and leaking. Is there a temporary fix for this? Part is not available from the local parts stores.
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Just brought my 06 3.3l into the dealer and they said the oil pan is not covered under warranty. It's clearly where my issue is - is it hard to change this oil pan on an automatic?
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So I'm away from home on vacation also away from my tools. Any ways my front drivers side line busted almost causing me to crash earlier today in my 2006 F250 6.0 diesel 4x4. So basically my question is: what tools are needed to do this job? I've already picked up the part now tomorrow morning I will be changing the part...
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I recently purchased a 2006 Sonata with 70k miles on it. The dealership said it had one previous owner, and was in great condition. I should've had it checked out before purchasing. Now that I've driven it a few weeks I've noticed the headlights dimming when I press on the break. My brother checked it out and said my grounds were all okay, but there was oil leaking onto my alternator. He said it should just be the valve cover gasket that needs to be replaced.
What is considered a fair price to replace it? I dont know how detailed he looked into it, but it is on the left side of the engine. I've read that's the cheaper one to replace, will they allow me to replace without replacing the right side? Also, Will that solve the headlight dimming issue?
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I have a 2010 2.4 with approx 36k miles on it. I started noticing oil spots in the garage so I got under the car and saw that the back of the pan was covered in oil. The oil was on the rtv gasket for the pan, the back of the motor was dry so I'm under the impression that the gasket has failed. I checked the filter, and valve cover, everything is dry, the motor is dry and clean.
My question is, is this covered under the 10yr/100k warranty? I would like to avoid having to pay the $110 diagnostic fee if its not covered, since it looks like a pretty simple job dropping the pan. But if its covered by the warranty, it would be nice not having to do the work my self.
I am the first owner, and I believe the 5yr bumper to bumper warranty has expired.
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