I have a 2007 Sonata and It recently lt began to blow hot air out of one side and freezing cold out the other side. Took it to the dealer and the technician said he didn't know what was wrong but recommended that the system be evacuated and refilled at a cost of 281.00. Actually, what he said is that the compressor is either overfilled or underfilled.
View 16 RepliesI noticed quite a bit of oil on my alternator recently, and it looks like oil is leaking out of the sides of my engine. Does this mean that my valve cover gasket needs replacing and if so what should a mechanic charge for this i.e. how long should the job take?
View 1 RepliesA few weeks ago, the air conditioner in my 06 worked great. I parked the car and went into a store for about an hour. When I turned the car back on, now the blower seems to blow at only about half of what it has since new. The compressor appears to be working properly and the air still gets (almost) ice cold, but the fan speed is significantly lower. Since it's now 100 F+ outside, it takes nearly an hour to really cool the cabin.
It's been about 18 months since my last cabin air filter change, so I'll be changing it this weekend, but I just don't see that causing a sudden and drastic effect on the fan speed. If the fan stopped working altogether, I could see it being a fuse or the fan motor itself, but I'm at a total loss.
101,400 miles on car. Started noticing about 2 weeks ago, at idle, and as pickup up speed, a whining noise coming from the engine bay. It has gotten a little worse, so I started trouble shooting.
Basically, at idle, its somewhat annoying, but as you hit 20-30mph it can be more annoying if the radio is off or at low level. If Im sitting there in park, and its whining away, all it takes is me cutting the A/C knob to OFF, and then quiet as a mouse.
So, other than the compressor going bad, I can't see anything else related? I always hate when AC problems show up, they are never cheap....
2000 Volvo v70... When accelerating (particularly at high speed) the air conditioner stops cooling. Until the car is turned off the AC does not cool. Dealer checked out the AC and found no problems.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2012 basic PiP, purchased in June 2012. The air conditioner stopped working (no cooling) about a month ago.
View 10 RepliesI'm working on 07sonata 2.4. The cooling fan is always on when key is on. I used to be a hyundai tech and remembered seeing something about the engine room fuse box and I have access to wiring diagrams. So in essence you go to connector jc01 pin 2 pink and connector je01 pin 25 pink. Cut the wires and connect them together bypassing the fusebox all together. But that didn't work this time. One thing I discovered is that if I touch my power probe to the heatsink of the fan control module I have battery voltage available. I first discovered this because I was removing said module and my 10mm touched it when it slipped a touch.
Is this 'hot' heatsink evidence of a shorted module? No codes in system. Ect tests good when hot and cold. A/c is not commanded on. Being that I used to be a tech for Hyundai I also know the engine fuse box can be touchy as well...
Was just on a trip (about 200 miles or so each way) and the AC worked just fine.
Car has sat for a few days unused.....when I used it to day, the AC blows warm...doesnt cool at all.
I hooked up a gauge to the low pressure side and the pressure reads very high (in the red zone of the gauge).....
Cant tell if the compressor is kicking on or not when the car is running...
Car is 600 miles out of warranty (of course).
I notice a high pitch squeal when I turn off the car ignition and is synced with the slowing of the engine cooling fan. I don't notice any significant engine noise while the car is fully running in idle. Does this indicate that bearings are going bad in the electric engine fan assembly? If so, would the noise alone be justification for getting a warranty replacement by the dealer or would they need a total fan failure in order to get it replaced under warranty at no cost. If not, think its worthwhile to replace the fan module myself to avoid imminent failure?
2009 Sonata GLS (NF) 50k Mileage
I just bought 2006 f150 4wd . It make a grinding sound on both sides in the front end..it seems to be independent and when I slow and come to a stop, I makes a clanking noise like its locking something in.
View 4 RepliesI have considerable road noise coming from both the driver and from passenger sides; have done a little research and found this to be a persistent problem with most Subaru models with frame-less doors.
View 2 RepliesI just had the water pump replaced in my 2006 Prius, and I went to turn on my heater in the car, and the A/C is permanently switched on. I press the button to switch it off, but it keeps blowing cool air, and it says "air conditioning" on the top left section of the mid-panel screen. I can't get warm air and this is really irritating me. How can I get the air conditioning to stop blowing?
View 2 RepliesI have a '07 Elantra Limited. Air coming out air conditioner has a fairly strong mildew smell. How can I get rid of the smell? Is there a drain plug somewhere in the ventilation system I can open to get rid of water?
View 3 RepliesAs I am driving my 2009 Azera, every five or ten minutes there is a soft to moderately loud clicking (or clacking) noise for a second or two. I have tried pinpointing the location but it is difficult. When I have other people in the car, we each think the sound is coming from somewhat different locations.
The noise is loudest and most frequent when it is hot and the AC is running, so I am guessing it is associated with the cooling system. I have taken the car in twice. The second time, the service manager said she had read the Sonata was making some clicking noises in the moon roof, so she had my Azerra's moon roof serviced. That didn't work.
I've had my 2010 Accent for about 9 months. It's got about 63K miles on it. Serviced regularly, no issues there. Yesterday while coming home from a road trip....6 hours there, heavy driving while in town, 6 hours back 2 days later, the check engine light came on the dash. I then noticed that the car was idling very rough. When I put it in gear after starting, I can visibly see the car the shake. Having major problems accelerating, I have to mash the gas to the floor to make it go. Shutting off the air conditioner seems to work a bit, but not totally.
I should note that I live in the South East US, it was over 95 degrees when we left town and the destination was over 100 the entire time we were there. I was told this could be vapor lock, but am not sure about what to do to clear that when the temps won't drop around here for some time. I took it to AutoZone this morning to have them read the codes on the check engine light and was told that their code reader was incompatible with my car.
My air conditioner (from new) seems to work properly only when I'm driving over 50mph. On the interstate, for example, it's fine. Recently I had a passenger who really drew my attention to it. "What's wrong with your air conditioner. You should get it fix!"
It seems that, when I am stopped (as in stop-and-go traffic) or parked with the car running, the air conditioner blows warm air.
Is this normal for this car? It's a 2006 Azera. If not, is there an easy fix?
This happened from day 1, so I just thought it was normal. But I guess it's not.
I have an 06 Honda Accord sedan...lately I have been having a rather serious problem with wet carpet after driving long distances with the air conditioner on.It became so serious on a 4 hr trip in 90 degree weather that the carpet became so saturated that the water actually caused the (PCM) Power control module located beneath the center console to short out, causing the car to loose all power and stranding me in the middle of nowhere. The car was towed to the nearest Honda dealer and after a week they finally replaced the PCM. I had noticed wet carpet recently but not to this extent. I suspected some type of condensation from the air conditioner. The dealer dismissed this theory and implied that I had left the windows down in the rain, which was not the case. After getting the car back I conducted a test. After completely drying out the carpet, I took it on a road trip with the air on and sure enough the carpet was again soaked.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2006 honda civic lx and the air conditioner works fine when i first start the car.
However, after driving for 15-30 minutes the air conditioner starts blowing progressively warmer air, until it starts blowing warm (or even hot) air. this seems to happen when the engine gets hot.
One particular day it started raining, and suddenly the cold air kicked back in.
I took it to the dealer and they said i needed a compressor and coil for a grand total of $800. i took it for a free a/c inspection, and he said the problem might be electrical, but a visual inspection wasn't enough to figure out the problem.
If I turn on the A/C should my cooling fan be running on "high" speed? The reason why I'm asking is because once I turn off the A/C and wait for 5 minutes at idle, the cooling fan comes on by itself but the speed seems to be the same speed as when the A/C is on. When will it be low speed or when will it be high speed?
View 9 RepliesI have a 2006 GS300. Changed out the battery today, and immediately after the AC quit working. Pushing the climate control button reveals the message "Check the connection of the air conditioner".
View 3 RepliesGot a 06 F250 V8 Gas. Went to turn AC on the other week & got warm air out vents. Put 1 can of 134 in & the gauge on the "kit" said it was in the green. It was working last summer. You can turn the compressor "face" so it's not locked up, but it's not kicking in. Swapped the replay with another one & the 10a fuse in the fusebox under the steering wheel is good. Is that the only ones? I find it hard to believe that it's something serious. We did change the belt a few weeks ago & I was hoping that we had pulled a wire loose. The vacuum line that plugs into the heater hoses is plugged in.
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