Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Air Conditioner Fan Speed Significantly Reduced
May 28, 2011
A few weeks ago, the air conditioner in my 06 worked great. I parked the car and went into a store for about an hour. When I turned the car back on, now the blower seems to blow at only about half of what it has since new. The compressor appears to be working properly and the air still gets (almost) ice cold, but the fan speed is significantly lower. Since it's now 100 F+ outside, it takes nearly an hour to really cool the cabin.
It's been about 18 months since my last cabin air filter change, so I'll be changing it this weekend, but I just don't see that causing a sudden and drastic effect on the fan speed. If the fan stopped working altogether, I could see it being a fuse or the fan motor itself, but I'm at a total loss.
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101,400 miles on car. Started noticing about 2 weeks ago, at idle, and as pickup up speed, a whining noise coming from the engine bay. It has gotten a little worse, so I started trouble shooting.
Basically, at idle, its somewhat annoying, but as you hit 20-30mph it can be more annoying if the radio is off or at low level. If Im sitting there in park, and its whining away, all it takes is me cutting the A/C knob to OFF, and then quiet as a mouse.
So, other than the compressor going bad, I can't see anything else related? I always hate when AC problems show up, they are never cheap....
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I have a 2007 Sonata and It recently lt began to blow hot air out of one side and freezing cold out the other side. Took it to the dealer and the technician said he didn't know what was wrong but recommended that the system be evacuated and refilled at a cost of 281.00. Actually, what he said is that the compressor is either overfilled or underfilled.
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I bought a used 2008 Sonata GLS with 65K miles 2 years ago. It's been a great car so far. For the first 25K miles that I drove it, it had good pickup and got ~30 MPG for my highway driving. In the last ~5K miles, the fuel mileage has dropped to 25MPG highway and it has some hesitation when accelerating, especially on lower RPM's. I changed the spark plugs with NGK Iridium, but it is still having the issue. What to check?
Some possibilities: ignition coils, sensors, timing belt, etc?
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Started with trouble starting right after a fill up. Right before I was to replace the evap purge valve, I filled up and on my way home, the MIL starts flashing and the car starts to misfire significantly. I replaced the purge valve, but no change in performance (though my car now started up right away after filling it up!). I would drive the car and it would misfire while idling at a light, backing up out of my driveway, accelerating on flat and inclined roads, etc. Codes were 300, 301, 303, and 337 (misfire, misfire, misfire, crankshaft position sensor low voltage)
So, I replace the crankshaft sensor with OEM (this is my 3rd one and this sensor going bad has caused different symptoms each time. First my car would cut out and die while turning, second it would not allow the car to start, and now presumably rough idle). Now the car starts up with less cranking, but still runs rough and misfires (only 301 this time).
So, next I replace the plugs with NGK V's gapped at .044. Better, but not perfect. I noted that the plug in cylinder 1 was darker than the rest.
I read on thread here about regapping to .035, so I tried that. Again, I noted that cylinder 1 plug is slightly darker, while 2-4 have a slight white coating. After the regap, runs great, no misfires, smooth acceleration, perfect...for 24 hours.
On day 2 I start to feel a slight misfire going up a hill, and sometimes at a red light or accelerating from a stop...but not all the time.
Now its day 3 and similar to day 2. Not since I regapped the plugs has the MIL been on, so the misfires are hard enough to feel, but not enough to trigger the MIL.
Not sure where to go next. The coil packs were replaced last year (35,000 miles ago). The car has 137,000 miles on it.
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Tonight I was driving my 2010 Type 2 Prius. I had been driving for about 6 miles in 85 degree heat (after the car was parked all day at work) on the freeway at 60mph when the "check hybrid system" warning came on and my speed reduced to about 40. I pulled over and called a tow truck. After I was towed to a dealer about 25 miles away, the car started up without the "check hybrid system" light coming on. However, the check engine light did come on. My car is low mileage with only 31,000 miles on it.
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I have a 2003 Tahoe that I love but is driving me crazy with a "Reduced Engine Power" message. I am driving along and suddenly it dings at me, the message center says "reduced engine power" and I am losing speed. It goes into a "limp mode" in which I cannot accelerate, it cannot pull itself up a hill, and the engine misses badly. I can pull over, shut it off for a couple of minutes and then start it up and run again just fine until it decides to do it again.
There seems to be no rhyme or reason, one day it did it 4 times w/n the first 20 miles, then ran 100 miles w/o doing it at all. I recently took it on a trip that normally takes me 1 1/2 hours, it took 2 1/4 hrs that day because I had to pull over so many times. I was having to stop every 3-4 miles by the time I got there. My usual mechanic has completely given up, told me to trade it. I have had it to another mechanic for over a month now, 3 times he has thought it was fixed, but it wasn't. One time, I didn't even make it the 5 miles to my house before it acted up again.
One other note on this: this past trip I made, I left early in the morning and my lights were flickering high/low. . . this went on for several miles. Finally my lights quit flickering, then I lost engine power, pulled over, shut it off. When I started it back up, the lights started flickering again. The cycle seemed to continue, once the lights would settle, the engine would lose power. I took it to a parts store and had the battery and alternator checked. They said both were fine. (Had never noticed the light thing before, but I can't think of a recent trip after dark.) How I can pass along to my mechanic?
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2005 Santa Fe (88K, 2.7 V6).
For a month or two, after the car got warmed up, I'd hear a whine/hum noise when I slowed to turn or reduced speed. The noise was much more noticeable when the car had been running at least 15-20 minutes, but I did occasionally hear it when the car was somewhat cool still. Never had a problem steering during this time, even with the noise... but I eventually figured out that slowing down and/or turning brought it on. So I took it to a mechanic.
They showed me bubbles coming from the power steering reservoir, and said I needed a new PS pump and pressure hose, along with a flush/new fluid. I paid for all of that.
Next day: The car would become hard to turn when I made a tight turn into a parking spot... again, not a constant thing, but only when turning to park and going slow. The noise APPEARED to be gone, but this new issue worried me so I took it back. They put a different pump on (no charge), thinking the other may have been defective.
Next Day: I hear the whine again on my way home from work. When I get home, I park, leave it running, and pop the hood. There's a fast drip bubbling from beneath the reservoir cap and running down to the pavement. First thing the next morning I return to mechanic. He says the first two pumps were the same brand and both "remanufactured" so he switches to a different brand -- this one brand new, not "remanufactured" -- and installs that one.
A half hour later, I get home. Hearing that same whine/hum, I lift the hood. Fluid is pouring out from beneath the cap in a steady, unbroken stream (not a drip, but a stream). So I took it back to the mechanic (who to his credit, has charged me nothing since the initial new pump installation). What could cause the power steering fluid to gush out from the reservoir cap when the car gets hot? I have a brand new pump and pressure hose. What could cause this condition..
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I have noticed with my 2011 Sonata that I am experiencing the reduced power and a bit of*rough*idling from the engine. I noticed an increase in performance after oil changes, then back to the same issues after about 1000 miles. I switched to a synthetic blend and started buying the best filter any of my local shops carry. I then ran some additives recommended and shifted to gas from Shell o However, I am still having the issue.
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Air Conditioner Blower Motor on any speed, lets say high. Running fine while driving. Come to a stop at idle or shift to N or P. A few seconds later the blower begins to vary its speed in pulsating rhythm in what would seem to be in cadence with what would be a rough or varying idle. Where to start? Is it the relay?
2002 BMW 330ci Convertible
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Just put on eibachs and car is randomly making a grinding noise when slowly accelerating or braking.. Also noticing a fairly loud clicking noise when going in reverse. The noise isn't consistent and seems to happen more right after startup. I haven't gotten the alignment done yet and was wondering if this could be the problem. Will try and post a video soon.
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The blower on my 06 sonata is only working in high speed, before this it was going haywire automatically increasing and decreasing in speed. Funny thing was that it was blowing air even after i switched off HVAC.
When I got home i removed the blower resistor to check it because the symptoms were pointing to the blown resistor but it doesn't look burned to me. What else could it be?
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I did a search and what I saw all had to do with noise at startup.Mine is during cruising. I have a 2007 Sonata 4 cylinder with 112K miles. Within the last few months it began making a slight chattering noise when I accelerate and when cruising. It's worst around 55mph. When I let off, it almost goes away, but is loudest when I just am feathering the pedal to maintain speed.
If I put the pedal down a little more and accelerate, it is not loud, but still faintly there. At first I thought it was a tapping sound, but I've let some of my friends listen and its more like a clattering, metal rattling, or vibration perhaps. Its hard to describe. A week ago I had the check engine light come on with a "P0011 Hyundai - 'A' Camshaft Position Timing Over-Advanced Or System Performance Bank 1".
I changed the oil and took it into a local shop and they cleared the code/light and checked things out (the light hasn't reappeared). I had them take off the valve cover and make sure the top end was not making the noise. It seemed fine to them. They suggested I take it to the dealer for further diagnosis. I have not yet. It does not make noise during start up. If I have time I will upload a audio recording later. What may be making the noise? It seemed to get a little louder after the latest oil change, but that's probably me being more sensitive to the problem.
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I've noticed my car starting to shake when I'm in the speed range of 40 to 50 but really feel it at 45. I don't think it's a balance issue with tires because anything faster or slower it doesn't shake. The shake sensation I feel is on the front left side and I feel it mainly in sterling wheel but you can feel it throughout the car.
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2006 Sonata GLS V6, 105K miles
I have a weird rubbing/grinding noise that seems to be coming from the front, passenger side of my car. It's a very weird rubbing/grinding noise, almost rubber like, but somewhat metallic. I recently got new tires and almost thought it had something to do with that, but that seems unlikely.
When decelerating from about 20 to 15 mph, the noise starts. It's a cyclic noise that is proportional to the speed of the car. It occurs while going in a straight line or while turning, but gets significantly louder in a turn. It instantly stops as soon as I hit the accelerator at any point.
Another important fact is that the noise does not happen when the car is cold. You have to drive about 5-10 minutes for it to start.
I just bought new KYB shocks/struts that I planned to install (probably not myself although I am tempted), so now is probably a good time to dig into the problem. I replaced brake pads and turned the rotors within the last year. I wouldn't be surprised if the suspension needs some additional TLC as I have not replaced any components and have owned it since it had 13K on the odometer.
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I have a 2006 LX with 25k miles.. within the past 1,500 miles or so, I notice there is a squeaking/creaking/rubbing sound coming from the steering wheel column when I turn (and cut, specifically) the wheel at stopped and low speeds (such as pulling out of the driveway or maneuvering into a parking spot). At faster speeds this doesn't happen.
I intend on bringing this to the dealer. What should I expect, and should I bring this in ASAP?
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My wife has a 2006 GLS and the top strut mounts need replacing, they squeak during the winter when i go over speed bumps. Since i drive the vehicle more than her (i have a 92 accord that i drive to work daily lol) and i have to modify every car that i own. Since i will be taking the strut assembly apart to change out the mounts it gave me a good reason to purchase lowering springs ( coilovers are not in my budget).
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My 2009 sonata started having issues with slight up and down accelerations while cruising and the check engine light would come on Then during start up the engine would accelerate up and down about 1500 rpms. I have taken it to two dealers neither could find anything wrong and said their was no record of an event on the computer. Now the car is stalling while driving, once at highway speed. It has happened three time this week. After coming to a stop, I wait a few minutes and the car starts up like their is nothing wrong. The engine light comes on for a while.
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I have a 2010 Hyundai Sonata GLS that I purchased just over two years go. I have a couple of issues with it at the moment.
My first problem is I clipped my drivers side side-view mirror and a little plastic piece inside the side-view mirrror housing where the bolts go thru broke off. I checked with Hyundai and it seems like you can't purchase that plastic piece from them(they make you purchase the whole side view mirror). I also checked around at local junkyards but none of them had a 2010. What I can do here?
My second problem is when I'm slowing down to a stop and my speed gets around 10 mph or so the car jumps/jerks. It feels like it's almost skipping a gear or something and it's very noticeable. I was wondering if any of y'all have had that problem before and if so what did you do?
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While driving my 2006 Sonata yesterday I noticed a tapping noise that increased and decreased with speed. Not really loud, but audible. I looked and really didn't see anything. However, I looked earlier a little closer and noticed my left front wheel has a rubber looking belt, hose (unsure) laying across the inside part of wheel, closer to what I assume is caliper.
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I'm in the market for an '09 Sonata 4cyl. I found a good looking one at a local Toyota dealership (supposed trade in). Unfortunately, the dealer claims there are no service records available...test drove it and heard noise coming from rear suspension when going over speed bumps. Dealer had tech look into it and said they lubed up the 'springs' and stabilizer/sway bar and now the noise is gone. Should I run away or take this thing in for an independent inspection, and if it checks out, buy it without the service records?
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