Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Acceleration Power Suddenly Lost - No Engine Light
Dec 25, 2010
My problem is on wed I was driving my car,when I suddenly lost acceleration power, after pulling over to the side of the road I turned off the car and restarted it. However I still had the same problem with acceleration. After a while of trying to get the car to start I called a tow truck and got it towed to the dealer. When I got there they told me it was likely and issue with with a sensor on the gas pedal and the engine. At the dealership I started the car to show them the problem however the car drove perfectly and no engine light came on.
They told me it was most like what they said over the phone the sensors. However on xmas eve they called me and left a voicemail saying the rear cat had went out and taken out both rear exhaust manifolds and it would coast $3000 to fix. My question is how can all that happen without the checking engine light coming on in the car and the car showing no problems while i was driving it and how did they miss it when I had took the car in two weeks earlier for regular maintenance and to correct a drive belt issue due to it walking after I purchased a new drive belt and pulley.
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I drive a 2007 Sonata GLS with 54k miles on it. Recently, the engine has lost a lot of power and the fuel economy has gone down quite a bit. (20 mpg in mixed driving)
I replaced the engine oil; air filter & oil filter myself (Full Synthetic & FRAM filters). Engine is sounding and driving lot smoother now. However, the power & acceleration are still pretty bad. MPG is slightly better at 21mpg
I would like to change spark plugs myself and see if that will result in any improvements.
1. What spark plugs do you recommend should I use (there are too many brands out there)
2. How difficult is it to change them.
3. How I can get the car to perform better.
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I have a 2006 Toyota Solara V-6. I was driving down the street with no indication of what was about to happen. All of the sudden my check engine light came on and the car lost all power. I had the car towed home and had a mechanic look at it he put his scanner on it and I'm not sure what codes if any came up but he decided it was the ECM so he found a used one with a warranty and ordered it, he put it in and it did the same thing it turns over but wont start. What could it be ?
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I don't know what is wrong with my truck. I don't know what this symptoms called, but It felt like it was missing a beat. The engine suddenly lost power for a second or two wile driving. It did this few times. Is it the engine or the transmission? No check engine light is on. 2001 F250 5.4 V8
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I have a 2003 new beetle with a manual transmission. It has about 60K miles. I was driving down the freeway (about 60mph steady, not stop and go), and my car suddenly lost all acceleration. Pressing on the gas did not rev the engine. Otherwise, my car was on. I pulled over and put it in first and it still would not go. However, when I turned my car off and back on, it started like a charm and I was able to move and accelerate. .
I took it to the mechanic and they could not find anything wrong with it except that the battery was low. I don't think that could be the problem, could it? I'd hate to bring the car back out on the freeway, but how can I fix it if there's nothing wrong with it.
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Driving down the road today and all of a sudden the car loses power, starts vibrating and the Check VSC and Check Engine lights came on. I pulled off the highway and got the car stopped and engine shut off. I let it sit for about 5 minutes and started it up and all warning lights went off and I was able to drive the car home with no adverse effects. Seems to be running normal now. Searched the archives and saw numerous posts about a loose gas cap, but this was something far more serious.
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Going up a hill, my engine started clacking and I lost acceleration power. (yes, I was in overdrive - which I now know I shouldn't have been). I immediately pulled off the road and into a gas station. Upon stopping, my oil pressure gague dropped to zero and my engine temp maxxed out. The temp was fine until I stopped. I let the engine cool off for an hour.
After listening to it for a few seconds, I was told that I had a problem they couldn't fix. We put a compression fix oil additive in it to see if that would work. It did raise the oil pressure when cold and when running with the RPMs up, but after running for a few minutes, the pressure would drop to zero on idle. At that point, they suggested that I shouldn't drive it anymore. I then rented a box truck and an auto trailer and trailed my truck the rest of the way.
I'm now in Fort Collins, Colorado and have a dilemma. I had a local mechanic look at the truck and he also agrees that I have a failed/failing rod bearing. (back of the engine near the firewall)
The question is to repair or abandon the vehicle. I'm not a mechanic and can't do the repair myself. It has 158K miles and has been meticulously maintained. Unless I also damaged something else, the rest of the truck is in good shape. Is rebuilding the engine possible or even worth it?
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Had the 2011 Sonata 2.0T for two months. Was running perfectly. The today engine light stayed on. Disconnected battery then started again. Still on. Guy said check gas cap. Added gas AND disconnected battery again. Light stayed off on way home. Then started it again and it is on again. No overheating. Oil is ok. etc. everything else works just fine.
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I pushed the accelerator all the way to the floor at 30 MPH and the engine lost almost all power? As soon as I let up to about 9/10 throttle everything reverted to normal. Took it to the dealer and it showed no codes. The Tech and I took it for a road test and it did it only one more time. He said to keep an eye on it but was baffled. I tested it later in the sport drive mode and it would bog down every time if pushed hard to floor at about 30mph.
My best guess is that I got some bad regular low octane gasoline and the ECM is sensing a knock and retarding the timing or cutting off fuel flow similar to over revving condition. I will fill it up with 93 Octane Premium next time I get fuel and se what happens. Usually runs fine on 87 Octane but most of the time I don't floorboard the accelerator pedal. As I said at 9/10 throttle it runs fine.
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I have a 2008 Hyundai Sonata Limited w/3.3 engine with 41414 miles. I was driving along and the car lost power but the engine kept running at idle. Check engine light came on so I took it to a shop.They said the throttle control showed up bad. The whole throttle control system has to be replaced. This would cost @$450.00 Does this seem right that a car with only 41 thousand miles would need a major part like this replaced? The bumper to bumper warranty ran out in Jan 2013.
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I was cruising on the highway and tried to accelerate and no more power. Could feel engine losing power. After I shutdown the car and start again, car was fine.
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2006 sonata 3.3L has an engine miss that is most prominent around 30 mph but not detectable at idle or during acceleration. It has new plugs that are properly gapped. Transmission fluid is good and fresh. I even checked the ignition coils and had all about .9. I even changed the fuel filter. What else could it be?
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Check engine light came on momentarily, car had poor acceleration. Light went out and ESC light came on. When the car was turned off and restarted, the ESC light went out.
I scanned the engine, no codes, either open, pending or historical.
Question, could the issues with the two lights be related? Or is there anything else I should check?
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Heading to work this morning, taking the back roads as usual. Came to the nice RH sweeping curve that ends in an uphill straight (where I typically like to play a bit). Caught 3rd, nailed it coming out of the curve, and instead of "grip and go" the .:R completely loses power. Limped to side of road...tried to restart. Acts exactly like out of gas, but tank is almost full. Bummer...and I'm very aggravated at this point.
Called roadside assistance and they sent someone who had it on a rollback in under 30 minutes. Caught a ride with the truck to my job...call the dealership and asked for a ride and loaner. That all worked out, so now I'm calmed down and feel satisfied with the courtesy and service I've received thus far.
BTW, I did have the fuel tank valve recall thing performed a month or more ago. Not going to speculate, though, as to whether this had anything to do with anything. Also, I have never had any problem, hiccups, or anything negative happen to the car (14K on odo) prior to this.
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1999 F150 Transmission Problem. The other day on the way home midway thru a 7 hour trip I stopped for gas, when I was getting back on the fwy, the engine/trans stumbled a bit, the Service Engine Soon light came on and stayed on solid not blinking, and I lost about 250 rpm from high gear at 70 mph like I intentionally turned off OD but I didn't. I made it home the remaining 200 miles and parked it. Tried it today, SES light came on when I started it so Ididn't drive it I just shut it off. The fluid level is good, nice and pink, and no burnt odor, the son-in-law just pulled a "Shift solenoid" code.... what do you think is going on? Is this common?
1999 F150 4x4 5.4 Supercab
Trans code: E (E4OD/4R100??)
This is a GPD/Ford Reman. Trans that was replaced 120,000 miles ago?
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Comming back from hunting today my truck suddenly lost power and stepping on the accelearator had no effect at all. We were on the highway thru the mountains but on a fairly level stretch for a few miles. Managed to pull the truck and toy hauler over and the engine was running fine but stepping on the accelerator had no effect. The check engine light came on every time I stepped on the throttle and went out when I released it. It started fine but no throttle response. Switched around a bunch of relays and checked the fuses and still nothing.
Not liking my parking spot i tried to see if it would move down the road at an idle but it would not. Then I thought to try it in 4 wheel low and as the shoulders were soft it wouldn't move forward so tried reverse and went back a foot, forward again and moved a foot and a half. did this several times and all of a sudden the throttle responded, took it out of 4 wheel and it ran fine all the way home. What would have caused this? I was ready to call a tow truck which would have been several hundred dollar bills for where we were and with the trailer
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While pushing the gas pedal for acceleration from stop I feel the engine grunts more and then on its smooth. I don't have any lag in acceleration the car moves well. The car is 2008 Sonata 4 Cyl. the mileage is 137000. Is this normal for this mileage or something wrong. When I asked the service center guys, they replied they don't find any issues and everything is fine. It might be due to the mileage on the engine.
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I have a 2010 Elantra 4dSD 2.0 DOHC. 61, 522 miles on it.
I have had no issues with the car until about 2 weeks ago. Suddenly the EPS light came on and I lost power steering. Upon pulling over and restarting the car the problem went away. I went about a week, and suddenly it did it again. Restarted car, went away, still does this intermittently.
I took it to the dealer, they found the following codes:
EPS - Electronic Power - C1259 - Steering Angle Sensor Electrical
EPS - Electronic Power - C1290 - Torque Sensor Main Signal Fault
EPS - Electronic Power - C1604ECU(Brake System) Hardware error
EPS - Electronic Power - C2400 - Motor
ABSESC - ABS/ESC - C1202 - Wheel Speed Sensor Front - LH Invalid/No Signal
ABSESC - ABS/ESC - C1208 - Wheel Speed Sensor Front - LH Invalid/No Signal
ABSESC - ABS/ESC - C1211 - Wheel Speed Sensor Front - LH Invalid/No Signal
They reset the codes, and EPS Reflash. Recalibrated EPS. They told me if the problem comes back I would need a new steering column ($1500+). This seems a bit strange to me for an intermittent issue. It would almost seem to me that if multiple sensors are effected that they are receiving bad data from somewhere. Could the ABS sensors be causing this problem with bad data? I've also heard a failing battery could cause this type of issue.
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While I was driving my car suddenly was losing power.I tried to hit the "gas" pedal harder and it didn't react.It stayed on the same gear and after 2-3 seconds it was ok. After 10 minutes it happened again but this time I couldn't do anything. I thought it was the transmission problem so I went into manual mode to shift it down. It didn't work at all - I was shifting down but didn't have power so I had to stop. I stopped put in P turn engine on and everything came back to normal.It's worth mentioning that one time time I had to pull over and I didn't turn the car off. After couple minutes the car started to vibrate and died. I turned on and everything was ok. Fuel filter or is it something else?
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Up until this morning I thought I had almost a perfect car with a potential of lasting for 10 years but this morning, while I was driving on a local road with 35-40mph, so suddenly my car stopped moving and I couldn't even pull over as it completely stopped with no error or any warning/alerts! So, I turned it off and on again, it started working but I was still nervous if it would happen to me again while driving on a freeway but it didn't and I have made to work safely.
Now a question is should I bring it to the dealer today and have them run their diagnostics on their computer to see if anything is wrong with the car engine/ battery/ or anything else or should I just reboot it like we do for computers and go on everytime it happens? It's just little scary to think of its happening during a busy highway driving! I have driven it since July and has about 14K and I have had a good MPG of anywhere between 50 to 60.
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Yes my door switch is bad, but it hasn't caused any real issues. It works intermittently. I've never really had any issues with the car. I was driving home today about 60 miles, and out of nowhere I lost all power, when I pushed the pedal it would hold rpm and then just slowly fall. At highway speed with the clutch in I could feather it to maintain rpm, but it would misfire really bad. So I pulled off to the shoulder, it was still running. I popped the hood and looked around, nothing seemed out of place. I revved it an it would stumble. I messed with it for a about a minute or so, and hopped back in to go and if I got the rpms up it would do ok. I got it back up to speed and it was fine for about 2 miles. Then the same thing happened. By this time I was close enough to an offramp to get off the highway. I managed to get it off the offramp, and on to the shoulder. It then stumbled and died.
My first thought was alternator, I've been having some issues with my battery, but I thought that was just due to the cold temps. If I jumped it, it would drive and start fine. I only ever had issues if I didn't drive it for a few days, or it got below 10 degrees. It would turn over fine but it would barely catch and then just die. The battery was dead. We jumped it, and still the same issue. It would turn over just fine when attached to the other car. So we sat there for a little while, waiting for a tow truck. I called a few others and then thought about trying something else.
I got a breaker bar out of the trunk, got down on the ground and hit the fuel tank a couple times. Hopped back in the car, and it fired right up first try. Then I drove it home without any issues. It has started a few more times now without a hiccup. So, everything else aside, I have a shorting fuel pump I think. The car has 151k on it, so I should probably expect to replace the pump anyway.
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