Sonata NF (2006-10) :: AC Not Working Correctly - Some Freon Vented Out
Jun 20, 2016
2010 Sonata, AC isn't working correctly so we added 1 1/2 cans freon. Got the temps down to 40 and then it was running for about a half hour, we started the car after it sat for 20 mins and it appeared that the ac "vented" some freon out. The pressures were 225 high side and 33-35 low side, the ambient temp is around 87 degrees. The venting appeared to be committed no from the lower drivers side condenser. I may be wrong, but never seen this before. Anyway, after it "vented" his ac basically stopped working but the ac gauges still read 210 high side and around 25 low side......
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Just purchased a 2007 Sonata Limited from an original owner. Love the car so far and generally super-pleased with my purchase. However, I noticed last night, while driving it at night on highway for the first time, that the headlights (low beams) didn't look like they were aligned correctly. I could see a cutoff showing as a shadow and that looked like the lights were partly being obscured on the bottom half. It seemed more prevalent with the driver-side headlight.
I took it to a local dealership service center (rhymes with Bitz) and the service guy claimed that nothing could be done about it. It is just this way. I figure I'll get a second opinion 'cause it sounded like BS, but I wanted to at least ask on here about this.
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I have a 2006 Passat 2.0T (UK Model), and I'm having trouble with both the outside temperature reading and the climatronic's cooling ability. When I bought the car the air-con was blowing cold and warm air without any problems, but the "cold" air is just a little too warm to be working correctly. I've had the system re-gassed but this didn't solve anything.
As I said, all the features of the air-con work perfectly, it's just the cold air just isn't cold enough - so it seems to me that the compressor is working fine. Also, the outside air temperature reading on the MFD reads about 5-10 degrees too warm. Would this have anything to do with the air-con issue?
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I have a 2001 Nissan frontier and the air hasn't been working for a while now. So I need to know how many cans of freon does it need?
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The vehicle in question is a 2001 Windstar. The OBD Data Link Connection is not working properly. When I plug in my scanner it DOES power up and will read the ABS info, but will not read anything else.
The scanner is new, and a pretty good one for a DIYer, and I've tried it in other vehicles. I've also tried another reader that also didn't work on this van. So I don't think it's the scanner.
My Haynes manual has no info on how to wire a DLC or how to repair/replace one. How can I fix this?
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OK, until I figure out what to do with the other truck I overheated, I've got another ambulance that needs some work, and I got to have a truck running.
This is the same config - 2006 E450 6.0 dually ambulance with 122K. Starts and runs; I drove it all the way to Houston from Minnesota when I bought it and made several shorter trips since with no problems except the AC compressor leaks freon. Then, I found oil in the degas bottle. A tech said it needs an oil cooler and he says there's some leakage at the rear main seal that's "common with this engine."
Can't recall reading a lot of rear main seal issues here. Is that right? Is oil cooler the obvious diagnosis for oil in the coolant?
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I had a new engine put into my 2006 F350 SD 5.4 last year and ever since then I can't keep the freon charged in my ac. The mechanic said all he did was lay the compressor out of the way and didn't disconnect anything ac related. I have 2 different shops keep my truck for a couple days and neither could find a leak. Yet a month later, freon is low. I think I have more dye in my system than freon.
I put 2 of those ac leak sealers, the ones you have to ask for behind the counter and can keep my ac working for maybe 45 days, then throw 3 cans in it. No dye is showing up nor will the sniffer find anything. I hate to go to the dealer because I figure they will want to replace everything. Any tips other than try another shop and maybe they can find the leak.
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Late January started having transmission problems. Car would not upshift correctly. Sometimes it would not shift out of 4th unless I used either the paddle or the sport shift. Even when it would up shift to the proper gear the torque converter would not lock/unlock correctly. When at speed and I would lift off throttle trans would not free wheel/coast. It would act like you downshifted to engine brake. Sometimes when doing 60+mph rpm would be about 3000 and would get a 'roaring' noise from trans and would require more peddle than normal to accelerate. It was like the trans had selected two gears and they were fighting each other. Sometimes when this happened would smell acrid clutch burning odor when stopped.
I live near Cape Cod so you have been watching the weather you know we have been getting slammed with snow. Because of the snow I didn't get to the dealer until Feb. Tech took car for test drive with me riding shotgun, luckily transmission did everything listed in first paragraph which made the tech a believer. He did some diagnostics and called Hyundai Tech Service. They requested additional diagnostics which would more time and they wanted car earlier in the week since this was a Friday. The technician did reset the transmission adaptive and returned car to me.
OK now comes much more snow. I put more miles on my snow blower than my car. The adaptive reset made some improvements but proper up shifts were not there but trans growling and odor still there.
Finally got back to dealer today. Additional diagnostics done and the Regional Hyundai rep who was at the dealership agreed to replace transmission under Warranty.
I am original owner. Car is a 2012 2.0 SE with 61600 miles purchased Dec. 2011.
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So my auxiliary battery started dying and I had to jump start it when it was dead. One dark morning I reversed the cables on my wife's car when jumping it. The portion on the Prius that I had hooked up the cables to started glowing. I unhooked them, and when I got inside my car I noticed several warning lights on (ABS, etc). Once I got the car started I drove to work, but the brakes were no longer working correctly, and if I hit them hard they would lock up and I would skid, with tons of white smoke from the tires. I took the car to Toyota, but they wanted $550 to replace the auxiliary battery and run a diagnosis. They said they could not run any computer tests as the car's auxiliary batter was too low.
So I ordered the battery. In the meantime, the brakes wore down to metal on metal on the front driver's side. I took the car to Firestone and they wanted $850 to replace the pad, rotor, and caliber, which they said was stuck. I then put the new auxiliary battery in the car myself (it was relatively easy) and took it to Toyota. They said the ABS relay needed to be replaced. After waiting two days for the part to come in, I then get informed that the skid control ECU needs to be replaced, at which point they will "recheck as necessary with diagnosis." After doing some googling, there is some indication that the problem might not be the skid control ECU.
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My drivers door window switch no longer does the one touch operation. Yesterday I rolled the window down and it wouldn't come back up. After driving around for a while with the window down, I was successful in getting it to roll back up. This was after several repeated tries and shutting the car on and off. Does this mean I probably need a new switch? Is this a somewhat common issue?
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I got the known p2015 code about a month ago and the CEL is on. Here is my situation though...I went and had my car tuned for an APR stage 1+ tune with stock hardware, everything was fine. I then upgraded to a catless 3 inch downpipe (ebay on that links up to the stock downpipe) and a short ram intake and decided to go to the 2+ to delete the engine code for not having a cat.
While I was there, the guy tuning my car said on top of the code for not having a cat, there was a code for my intake manifold saying that one of the motors for a flap wasn't working correctly. I left there expecting to see a code but it never came back on. After4-5 months, I had to pass emissions. Obviously you cant pass with the 2+(found that out the hard way) so I had to have it returned to a regular stage 1 with the stock downpipe. Still no sign of a code for the intake manifold.
I passed emissions and then put my downpipe back on, however, I decided to buy the 200 cell cat from 42DD to weld into my downpipe to save me from having to constantly get my car tuned just to pass emissions. After welding in the cat, I still had a CEL. I went to advance auto and it said I had a code p2015 Intake Manifold Runner Sen Sw Ckit Rng/Perf B1.
I went and got my car tuned to the stage 2 for the hi flow cat and the light is still on. My question is, do I need to replace the whole intake manifold or is there a possibility that I could replace just a sensor? I have a 2012. If just replacing the intake manifold will solve this issue, I'll probably just buy [URL] .... and replace it myself (assumable that's what I need ).
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2010 Passat.....the driver seat controller started acting up today...it will not raise or lower the seat any longer ....front to back works.....seat angle works.....front of the seat cushion still works...but the seat height no longer adjusts.
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I came out of my house this morning and noticed a large wet spot under the back of my car. Upon investigation it appears to be a fuel leak from a black vented box that is immediately behind the driver side rear tire and connected directly beside the gas tank. there are 2 hoses that appear to be fuel hoses going into the forward end of this box.
I disconnected two mounting nuts and looked inside but it is an enclosed box mounted inside the casing. I can't find any info on the net or any illustrated parts lists. What this box is and why it might be leaking fuel? The box is rather large maybe 12 to 14 inches long by 8 to 10 inches wide by at least 6 inches deep.
I did fill up my tank last night and I "topped" it off to round the price. My car also parks on a fairly decent slope in my driveway rear end first.
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I have a 2014 Honda CR-V with two possibly related problems.
1. The tire inflation light comes on often even though the pressure is just fine.
2. The ABS brakes don't seem to be working correctly.
Last winter, they seemed to engage much too easily. As soon as I touched the brake pedal, it begins to chatter. I've had ABS brakes before, of course. The ABS brake light has not come on.The kicker is that I think the two problems might be related. As I understand it, the tire pressure light comes on if one wheel spins faster than its partner - say if one of the ABS sensors on one of the wheels was defective.I've had it to the dealer, but they won't even look since the ABS light doesn't come on. They claim that if there was a problem, the light would come on.Frankly, the vehicle feels unsafe on slightly slippery roads.
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Driver's side power seat not working correctly. It moves fine when I am not sitting in it, but as soon as I sit in it, it doesn't want to work (the motor starts to engage, albeit weakly, then stalls). I have never worked on a seat before, so I don't even know where I should start looking to fix the problem. 2005 Ex Limited. And is there a part I should be focused on? And how the heck do I dissassmble it? I've seen the seat's diagram, but I really can't tell by that how to take the seat apart.
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Strangely, after my battery died and the car was jump-started the volume control on the steering wheel is not working correctly. When I press the volume up switch, the sound actually decreases, and the volume down button does not function. The manual volume control on the radio works fine.
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I have a 2004 volkswagen jetta, and it has started overheating. At first my problem was the thermostat. After that was changed out the fans stopped working correctly. It kept blowing fuses in s180 slot.
I read somewhere in another post that this is due to the fact the resistor in the low speed fan go bad, and for your car's radiator fan to go from zero to high speed, causes the fuse to blow. Also I read that when the fans start up it draws the most current, and then after it's running the current is considerably less.
This is my solution, I went to napa, and got a circuit breaker for a car, and Yes, to my surprise they make them. I picked up several a 10amp, 15 amp, 20 amp, and a 30 amp. First, I tried the 30 amp circuit breaker and it didn't trip the circuit, but when I put a regular fuse in the slot, it did trip the circuit, when I did the fan test at the thermostat switch. Next, I put the 25 amp in there and neither did it trip the circuit. When I put the 10 amp in the s180 slot, it tripped the circuit, just as the regular 30 amp fuses do. So that confirmed that the amps that were being drawn from the fans were not enough to trip a 30 amp circuit breaker.
What I did next, is I took a 20 amp circuit breaker and put that in the s180 slot. Then I hooked up vag com on my laptop to check and see how it performed with the 20 amp circuit, and these are the results.
Car Temperature in celsius
at 111 degrees the gauge was moving past the halfway point
at 115 degrees the gauge was one notch past halfway going towards the red zone
at 120 degrees the gauge was two notches past halfway going towards the red zone
at 122 degrees the fans kicked on high speed for about 30 seconds, and knocked the
temperature down to 105 degrees.
In conclusion, if the high speed on the fans work, you don't have to take those out and go and buy an expensive new fan set. Just stick a 20 amp circuit breaker in the slot, and keep using the fans that you have.
Part no: 782-3154................ Name: Circuit Breaker, 20 Amp; Blade
Note: I take NO responsibility for any damage you do to your vehicle from any information you obtained from this post. Do this at your own risk! I am not a mechanical expert but this is my solution to the overheating problems.
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I just purchased a 2008 Sonata Limited and the XM Radio is not working, when you press the button to turn it on it gives you a loading status on the screen and does nothing else. The radio will play on AM, FM, and CD
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AC blower isn't worked, I traced it back to the AC dash control panel (switch).
How to remove just the AC control panel/bezel? I see no screws or anyway to snap it out.
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I bought an '08 Elantra in October and I notice whenever I am driving on surface streets at night people are constantly flashing their lights at me as if I have my brights on. I don't. At first I thought it might be a coincidence and maybe they were trying to warn me about cops or something, but it happens way too often. On a 10-15 minute drive I get flashed 4-6 times on average.
I've started paying more attention to my headlights since I've realize they might have an issue and at first I thought they might just be too bright, but I do notice that I can see into the back of peoples' cars much more clearly than I can when I'm in other peoples' cars.
As far as I know they're stock headlights. Were they too bright or did they just need to have their angle adjusted? How hard is it to do that and is it expensive?
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Car: 2007 Sonata 2.4L
I hadn't used my car for like 3 weeks until yesterday when I drove back to PA from MA. I turned the car on, a/c on and went for a nice 6 hour drive. About 2 hours in (with a/c working) I stopped for a break. The a/c blower would not turn on at that point. I could hear the compressor clicking on (and the RPMs would respond appropriately). I tried turning it off and on a couple of times but no go. I decided to keep on driving and figure it out when I got home.
About hour 5 I turned the knob from OFF to Max A/C and it turned on! It worked fine all the way home. I drove the car a couple of more times last night with no A/C issues at all. Well today the same thing happened. Went to go drive and no a/c blower. Compressor still turning on. I changed the only fuse/relay I could find that was dedicated to the blower inside the engine compartment (40A) with no luck. Am I missing any other important fuses?
Being that it intermittently works I'm thinking something might be lose or some electrical connection.
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