Sonata NF (2006-10) :: AC / Heat Blows Only About 60% Force
Apr 7, 2016
I am recently getting no AC just warm/hot air. I have yet to pressure check the system but i believe the compressor still turns. But I did notice throughout this the vents are only giving about 60% force on heat and AC as they used to. The blower motor spins although, cleaned the cabin air filter and one pin broke when putting it back. the blower motor spins louder on the "4" setting. I am guessing this is related to no A/C since it happened the same time and i don't think that low refrigerant would cause the heat system to blow less efficiently...
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2006 Chevy 2500 Silverado heater blows hot on driver's side and cold on passenger side. None of the controls change the temp. on the passenger side.
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2006 F250 with the dash controlled 4x4. I typically keep the front hubs locked on this truck. I have recently noticed that when shifting into 4x4 that the a/c or heat will switch from blowing out of the vents to blowing out of the defrosters. Any clues how to fix this?
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So last summer I had the AC recharged. Worked great. I only ran the AC about twice over the winter to lub the seals (about 30 sec) prob not long enough but anyway.
I used the AC this month a couple of times briefly and it seemed to work just as well but today I get NOTHING except hot air. I cleaned the cabin filter, it sounds like the compressor comes on cause I know it makes that kick sound a few secs after hitting the AC button which illuminates. I took a quick look around but didn't see any leaks. fuse looked ok. I noticed the Low pressure line is wrapped.. do i have to take that off to check for leaks?
Does this sound like the refrigerant is low again after only like 6 months. If it worked great last week now nothing does that seem like the issue? Thinking of just filling up from autozone myself. I've also have a bad BCM with intermittent light/dash/window issues which arises in heat for past 2 years.
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Every time I replace the ac fuse it blows again sometimes immediately or later it never last more than a day.
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clarification: temperature control works as expected on driver side. Only hot air comes out on the passenger side.
1. Most of the problems of this sort seemed to have been solved by replacing an actuator - air blend actuator, vent door actuator, etc are the terms used. Are these all different names for the same actuator? Or are there two actuators?
2. The problems occurs regardless of the DUAL setting so I think it is unlikely to be a temperature sensor problem.
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Background: Sonata 2009 Limited. 165K Miles. Original factory installed everything. Chicago area.
Last week I drove to the mall in the snow. Headlights worked fine. Upon leaving the mall I realized that my low beam headlights were not working.
Purchased and installed one low beam headlight bulb, on the slim chance that both of them simply burned out at the same time. It didn't come on.
Results of an internet search indicated that the fuse might be blown. I pulled the 20amp Low Beam headlight fuse and sure enough it was bad. Put in a new fuse. Turned on the headlights and it blew instantly.
Have been driving with the high-beams the past 5 days. Only one car has "blinked" at me, so driving with the high-beams isn't a problem. Probably because there are so many cars with really bright low-beam headlights these days.
However, I would like some guidance to getting this problem resolved. What are the most likely reasons for the low-beam headlight fuse blowing instantly like this?
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The heater in my '07 Sonata (V6) does not seem to do too much - the air gets warm, but not hot - even at full blast. (A real problem here in Wisconsin when the outside temp gets below zero). Temperature gauge always reads below the midpoint on the gauge. My hunch is I need to install a hotter thermostat.
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My idle seems to always be somewhat rough whenever I put the heat on in cold weather. While in drive I'll come to a red light, heat will be on and I'll stop. The. my idle will bounce down then back up. I shut heat off to test and it only does it while heats on.
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I'm having with my truck. During a drive cross country my heat started to go from hot to mildly warm to cold in probably 5 hours. After stopping I checked my coolant level and it was empty. I do have a leaky head gasket and have driven about 18 hours so I'm guessing that's where it went. I could not find a leak anywhere. I filled it back up and left the cap off the reservoir to let any air work it's way out. My heat still blows cold as ice but if I shut off the heat completely and wait ten seconds then turn it back on it will blow warm air for maybe two seconds. What this could be?
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I tried to get emission test on a 2006 f150 5.4 and they cant do the test as " OBD monitor not ready, how to do a force test or what to do.
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On occasion the heat on my mk6 golf will start to blow cold when turned to the max click. Turning it back one click will cause it to start to blow hot again.
Friend at the dealer said he thought there was a software update for the hvac controls ....
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My daughter has complained about periods of no heat- fan blows but cold air. Next time the heater works fine. She is keeping coolant level up but does need to add a bit (pint or so) say every other month. Last week during the Chicago snow storm she called and told me the heater (which had been working) blew a bunch of "smoke" into the car and onto the windshield and windows which then froze solid. I assume the smoke meant steam and she did say it had a sweet smell when I asked her.
Car was towed to a SAAB dealer who ran the car for a couple hours and found no issue and then drove the car for a period with no issue. I had my local mechanic also check it in the past for no heat and it also worked fine then. Only thing I can think of is that there might be a small/intermittent leak in the head gasket with an exhaust bubble forced into the cooling system? That does not explain the steam in the passenger compartment though. Could it?
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2003 f150 lariat FX4 5.4L ... The heater only blows on defrost, Which vacuum line controls this? is it the black one that runs through the fire wall? What else can I check to narrow the problem down? this truck has the push button/digital controls.
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I have a 00 Ford Excursion and only heat blows out of the front vents, the temp control doesn't work at all! The back has it's own controls and will come out cold (not a/c just the outside air) when the front is on (blasting heat). What this could be?
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I have no heat in the LS at no settings. The AC runs good but does not seem to be regulated as it blows cold at any temp setting. The fan responds to settings but i still get no heat even with the AC turned off. I would like to find a diagram that shows the locations of the bleed valves to start a coolant air bleed.
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I've noticed today on my Camry that no matter what I set the air flow selector to on my heater, air only blows on the floor. Temperature and and fan speed seem to work fine. Going around to some local repair shops I was told the whole dash would need to be removed for a repair.
From what I have read changing the air flow selector I should hear some motor make the change from the floor to the face, but do not hear anything.
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Heat blows warm at best and A/C isn't all that cold. I want to believe its a blend door issue and dive into it this weekend and fix it but there isn't a single piece of foam coming out of any of the vents. Of all the systems on the car, HVAC isn't my cup of tea I don't know anything about it. What else could be the problem? I can live without A/C but the heat things must be fixed.
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I've read that this is a somewhat common problem but can't find the part number to what I need. My heat stopped working and won't change blowing any temp only blows slightly chilled air. I found that its suppose to be a part in the dash that controls this thru the climatronic head unit some lever that isn't getting pushed over correctly dew to a worn out part. What part I need to get my heat back working.
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