Sonata NF (2006-10) :: A/C Stopped Working Properly / Blowing Very Hot Air
Mar 1, 2012
A/C on my 2006 V6 3,3L Sonata just stopped working properly today when driving away from a supermarket, it blows only very hot air regardless of the temperature you choose on the display. It worked fine while driving to the supermarket and nothing remarkable happened to the car while I was shopping. All lights on A/C display, fan speed and everything else works fine, it just doesn't react to the temperature button at all.
I already checked the 10A A/C fuse under the bonnet, it's fine. There is an A/C relay in fuse box that I can check tomorrow but I suspect the fault to be somewhere else.
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I have a 2008 Azera, my A/C is not working properly, when I turn it on the drivers side is COOL, the passenger side warm air is coming out.
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Hey for some reason my esc light will pop on saying it's off without Mr pressing the button. What makes it do that?
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I have a 2007 Sonata 2.0 crdi which is poorly. The heater stopped blowing out hot air on Saturday. The heater is only blowing slightly warm air. The passenger side seems to be slightly warmer. I have looked at the side of the heater matrix whilst rotating the temp control on the passenger side and this moves the plastic adjuster on the matrix freely. When I turn the fan speed controller then the adjustment on the drivers side on the matrix moves. Both of these move freely.
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i have a 2006 sonata v6 3.3 couple off days water in my radiator started to finish every morning I have to refill it again I haven't noticed any leaking near the engine or under the vehicle but when i drive around i noticed a steam is coming out of my air vent though the air condition is off and the temperatures of the engine rises when i tried to open the radiator cap it was already empty i checked around inside the car i have found the floor mat in the passenger side is wet
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Car: 2007 Sonata 2.4L
I hadn't used my car for like 3 weeks until yesterday when I drove back to PA from MA. I turned the car on, a/c on and went for a nice 6 hour drive. About 2 hours in (with a/c working) I stopped for a break. The a/c blower would not turn on at that point. I could hear the compressor clicking on (and the RPMs would respond appropriately). I tried turning it off and on a couple of times but no go. I decided to keep on driving and figure it out when I got home.
About hour 5 I turned the knob from OFF to Max A/C and it turned on! It worked fine all the way home. I drove the car a couple of more times last night with no A/C issues at all. Well today the same thing happened. Went to go drive and no a/c blower. Compressor still turning on. I changed the only fuse/relay I could find that was dedicated to the blower inside the engine compartment (40A) with no luck. Am I missing any other important fuses?
Being that it intermittently works I'm thinking something might be lose or some electrical connection.
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This afternoon my instruments (speedo, Odo, Tach, fuel, and temp) stopped working. At first they were stuck in the position where they stopped. Got home and found a fuse labeled "cluster." Pulled and replaced it and all that happened was that the needles dropped to zero when I started engine again. Is there another fuse besides the one labeled "Cluster" in the box near the driver door?
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This is for my gf's 2010 sonata. The instrument cluster stopped working but then after a couple days it started again. Once again it stopped working. This time I checked the fuse and it was fine, there was power going to it. I was able to get it to start working again by disconnecting the battery. I hate electrical shorts. I have done some research but haven't come up with anything other than re-seat the cluster or replace it. I plan on doing that the next time it stops working. I'm thinking it might have something to do with the ignition, but i really don't know.
Engine codes are P0011/P0014/P0462
The P0011/P0014 are, i think, the oil control valve. I ordered that.
The P0462 code has to do with low voltage to the fuel level sensor, but the gas gauge has worked fine, well other than when none of the gauges work. Still I don't think it relates to cluster problem.
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I bought a 2006 Sonata V4 with 106k miles on it 2 days ago from a dealer and everything worked fine. When I got out of school yesterday the speedometer would stay at 0 and the fuel gauge has been fluctuating a bit. Also the odometer is no longer working. Shortly after this the ECS and ABS lights came on. I've read that this could be the speedo sensor but not sure.
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2006 Sonata 3.3 (NF series). A few days ago the instrument cluster and LCD odometer stopped working.
The dash cluster lights up, warning lights flash on at start up just no indication of speed, fuel level, tach, or temp.
Fuse is good & has power to it. I re-seated all the connectors under the dash. No luck.
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I have a 2010 Sonata. The fuel and temp gauges stopped working. Tank is full and engine temp is good. Both dont move when you turn the key on. Tried to find a fuse that they may be on but couldn't find it.
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Tail and dash lights would go out unexpectedly, so I would turn light switch off and then back on and they would work. After about a week they stopped working all together...I checked all fuses related to the lights and dash as well as bulbs.
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I have an '07 Hyundai Sonata (4 cylinder) with the sunroof and XM. Yesterday, someone nearly hit me with their car and told me that my brake lights stopped working. I went home and tested it out and it doesn't seem to work at all. (The third brake light died out a week ago). I checked fuses and they seemed to be okay, tried replacing them with spare ones and still doesn't work (My old rover always had fuse problems). Bulbs look fine and they're definitely not burned out.
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Stock FM/CD/SAT radio that came with my Sonata, AM stopped working intermittently while FM and XM both still worked. Upgraded the radio to JVC with Bluetooth and found that AM still does not work. FM works fine as well as all other functions.
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On my wife's car a 2009 Sonata, the driver's control of the power windows for the right side stopped working last Friday. The window switches operate on all doors, but can't control them from the Driver's door.
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Been having an issue lately with the AC system on my 2010 4.6L F150. The AC system is not working properly and is only blowing air the same temp as outside. In other words, if its 60 degrees in the morning the AC will blow cool, but later in the day its blowing warm. Pushes air no problem, but living in Florida, it's mainly warm air. Compressor clutch is kicking on and off fairly rapidly when on max AC setting (5-10 seconds on, then 5-10 seconds off). Hooked up gauge to low pressure side and the readings were 60psi WITH compressor on, then fell to 30psi when the compressor turns off. Where to start? Haven't done too many AC fixes before. Potentially a bad compressor? Overcharged lines?
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My wife drives a 2009 Hyundai Santa Fe Limited which we bought new back in 09. she has put roughly 140,000 miles in that time span. We have religiously followed all required maintenance routines; this is the first major issue we have EVER had with our Santa Fe. The issue we are having involves the AC unit. Instead of blowing ice cold air, the air vents are blowing hot air as if the heater is on. I have check all major AC components and everything is working properly. I believe we are having a controls issue.
At one point, all vents would only blow hot air. The other day, the passenger side vents started blowing ice cold air while the driver side still blew hot air. The driver's side has not blown cold air since this issue started about a week ago. We do have dual climate control; I have tried every possible combination of controls to see if it's a particular switch or button; however, I have not had much luck.
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I have an 03 Ford Ranger 4x4. Great truck and runs great just with one small problem. For whatever reason, every single time, the a/c only blows un-cool air (not hot) when I start the truck. Then, and only then, after about 30-40 mins of constant driving around does the a/c start working properly and blowing COLD air. After that it works great but it always takes about 30 mins after I start the truck for it to work correctly.
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I replaced the battery in my 2011 Sonata. After the install I reset the radio, clock etc. and everything seemed to work fine electronically. The car was very low on gas and when I filled it later that same day the "Distance to Empty" display in the dash only read 271 miles after fill up. Typically when it is filled it reads 550+ to empty. After three tank fulls the display now reads 375 when filled up. Is there a reboot for this function? Does it have to be done by a dealer?
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Bought an 04' Pontiac Grand. AC worked fine on the test drive then after a few weeks the AC stopped blowing air. I can feel the compressor is working and the air is being conditioned but the blower motor does not turn on. I've tried using all the speeds and none of them work. I do not believe the controls are to blame but rather either
A.) resister or
B.) connector(s) or
C.) blown blower motor.
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My buddy has a 2002 Camry LE(?), without Automatic Climate Control. He had experienced the flashing A/C light like many others, but his solution to the problem was to direct-wire the compressor to the battery. Seemed to work fine, and the compressor still works. Fast-forward to two weeks ago. All HVAC function stopped working from the standpoint of air blowing. No outside air. No A/C. No heat. AND no rear defroster. He replaced the Magnetic Clutch relay tonight thinking it might have something to do with the problem, but that did not solve it. We checked the blower motor, and it only has 0.01V going to it when the air is on. We're getting no sound of anything going on in the cabin.
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