Sonata NF (2006-10) :: A/C Blowing Warm - Compressor Oil
Jun 1, 2016
My 2006 Sonata GLS 3.3 A/C started blowing warm, so I checked all the fuses and they were good. Swapped the relays and still nothing so I check the wire to the compressor and it was reading 14v. This would lead me to believe the a/c clutch is bad, I didn't want to replace just the clutch incase my compressor craps out on me later on so I'm just replacing the whole thing now. My questions is how much oil does a new compressor need?
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I've got a 2007 Sonata that has started blowing HOT air. It's like the compressor isn't on. In looking for the issue, I looked for blown fuses first because I find it hard to believe that the AC would work fine and then stop working minutes later. Sure enough, I found a blown A CON fuse in the fuse box under the hood. No problem right? Just replace it and everything will be A-OK. WRONG. Every time I replace the fuse and test the AC it blows. I'm thinking maybe something with the relay?
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Was just on a trip (about 200 miles or so each way) and the AC worked just fine.
Car has sat for a few days unused.....when I used it to day, the AC blows warm...doesnt cool at all.
I hooked up a gauge to the low pressure side and the pressure reads very high (in the red zone of the gauge).....
Cant tell if the compressor is kicking on or not when the car is running...
Car is 600 miles out of warranty (of course).
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98 e150 - 4.6l, 185k, My air started blowing warm the other day. It worked perfectly fine. I checked the compressor to see if it was turning. Nope! I am wondering if it could be the clutch?
I replaced the alternator and changed the serpentine belt a couple of months ago and noticed a very slight whining sound sometime after I did this. I thought something might be going and just ignored it and said to myself, that's all the new tread in the new belt whining a little. Could be! not sure.
Anyway, where could I possibly start an easy procedure to see why the failure in the compressor not turning? Compressor is a lot harder to get at than an alternator!
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To start I have a 1991 super duty with a 7.3 in it. I replaced the evaporator, dryer and orifice tube. I added 4 cans of Freon and the a/c still blew warm so I added another can same result. I put one of the throw away gauges on the truck and it read empty so now I'm mad thinking it all leaked out only other option I could think of was to replace the condenser so went to break the lines to change it and Freon came spewing out so I tightened the lines back up and added another can of Freon still warm.
I got good gauges and hooked them up to high and low sides. High side was reading 100+ and low side was around 100 maybe a little lower. Oh yeah the compressor will come on and go right back off. So I let some of the Freon out and dropped the pressure down to 50 the high side was still a little below 100 so I let a little more out and now there is no Freon in the system again.
The lines never got cold and the dryer stayed warm the whole time. The first time I put Freon in before I started replacing stuff the dryer would get ice cold. My only thought is maybe the compressor is bad but I was told it was just replaced but Freon was never put in it. Oh and when I put the new parts in I replaced the orings in the compressor and put new oil in the compressor.
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Not sure what happened with my Accent. When I turn on the A/C the blue lights come on, but the compressor is not kicking in and it's blowing warm air. I checked my fuses under the dash and in the engine bay and they look good.
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I bought a white 2015 Sonata GLS with 55000 kms on it. Car works fine but really great on gas in city with AC ( 11-12 liters/100 kms ).
And my main problem is my AC/heater vents. Its nice cool day out and I wanna roll my windows up and use outdoor air (with AC off and heating knob on cool - Blue side) but still blow warmer air (the more I turn the temp knob to less cool side more warm air comes out). I went to dealership and complaint about it but they said can't duplicate problem. And I replaced cabin air filter too, but still same problem.
I don't have automatic temperature climate control option, so its all manual, red and blue setting for heat and cold. I complaint them may be my heater stuck on heating but no action taken from them..
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The A/c stopped blowing cold on my 06 Passat 2.0t. I checked the pressures on the low side of the system and it was 100 psi with a cold engine and 130 when hot. Obviously this is too much. It seems as if the compressor is always engaged even when the a/c is off (every part of the a/c pulley is always spinning the little nut sticking out of the center of the pulley spins as well not but im not sure if that's how it is when the compressor isn't engaged).
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Having problems with the A/C on F150 2006 or newer. It blows warm air while idling. I have taken mine to 2 different dealerships had Ford engineers down and no one can seem to find the problem. I love Ford vehicles but I can't handle this in the these hot summers.
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Two weeks ago A/C was slow to cool down on and blowing warm air for several minutes; works fine since then. One week ago, check engine light came on. At the dealership now, they say it the check engine light is for the clutch heater and this would also relate to problem with a/c not cooling properly. Waiting to hear what repairs will cost. Is this OK to continue driving? What exactly is going on? Does this part need to be replaced? Should we just tape over the icon on the instrument panel to avoid looking at the pesky light?
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I have a 2008 Azera, my A/C is not working properly, when I turn it on the drivers side is COOL, the passenger side warm air is coming out.
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2007 GS 350 109,500 miles. My heater was blowing cold at idle and warm when driving so I took it to dealer. To my surprise, dealer says its a blown head gasket. No other symptoms. No white smoke, no smells, no warning lights on dash, and running fine. Just had VVT gear recall done last week.
Fortunately I have Lexus extended warranty good thru 125k miles and Feb 2014. I do my own maintenance (plugs, oil changes etc). Have records for all. But have not done coolant change (due at 100k).
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My '06 GS450h has developed a fault where the heater blows cold at idle and low revs but blows warm when driving or revving the engine at a standstill. The coolant hasn't dropped at all and the car never goes above halfway on the temp gauge. Its starting to get frustrating now the cold weather has set in and temps dropping! Long journeys are ok as at high speeds it stays warm but short journeys are uncomfortable!
I just had a feel of the rad hoses and hoses that go into the matrix (engine side of bulk head) and matrix hoses feel warm (both of them), the top hose to the rad is warm but not hot and bottom hose is cold suggesting the stat hasn't opened yet. Its cold outside so getting the car up to temp is quite difficult without a long drive (rush hour at the mo).
Still I just had the car parked on the drive and cranked the heater up to max and held the accelerator for a while and super warm air blows out. The engine cuts back out as "normal operating temp" has been reached for battery mode and then the heater goes cool again! Still the bottom radiator hose is cool and top hose not massively warm. It has never overheated thus far and I drive 150miles a day back and forth to Reading from Cheltenham 4 nights a week.
Only thing I can think of is a sticky thermostat or water pump not operating sufficiently enough to circulate the water? Its getting colder and short trips where it used to blow warm air nice and quickly (within 3-5miles) are becoming unpleasant!
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Just noticed yesterday that the compressor clutch does not disengage while the air conditioner is on. It is 2005 V6 Sonata Elite. All the other cars I have ever owned had compressor clutches that cycle. Internet searches indicate that there might be air conditioners with only a low-pressure switch.
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I have an 06 Sonata 4Cyl
My air conditioner has decided to stop working. The compressor wont turn on. This has happened in the past a handful of times but it has always come back either after changing my cabin air filter or just by itself after a few minutes. So far its been 24 hours and it still doesn't work.
From reading online, I'm thinking one thing to check is the Evaporator Temperature Sensor. It seems like that could explain the behavior in the past..
In the manual, it says "Pull out out the passenger's crash pad center low cover". Where is this?
After watching this video: [URL] .... I thought I knew where it was, but when I look in that location, I don't see any connectors.
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I've recently purchased a 2007 Prius and I just noticed few days go that A/C blows warm air (weather was fair when I bought it and I can't remember if it really worked or not then) and middle vents do not blow any air. I'm not sure if two problems are connected but I do want to get both fixed without spending $$$ at the dealership. Where can I start?
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101,400 miles on car. Started noticing about 2 weeks ago, at idle, and as pickup up speed, a whining noise coming from the engine bay. It has gotten a little worse, so I started trouble shooting.
Basically, at idle, its somewhat annoying, but as you hit 20-30mph it can be more annoying if the radio is off or at low level. If Im sitting there in park, and its whining away, all it takes is me cutting the A/C knob to OFF, and then quiet as a mouse.
So, other than the compressor going bad, I can't see anything else related? I always hate when AC problems show up, they are never cheap....
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I have a 3.3 limited ed 09 sonata that I soo enjoy driving. However, two weeks ago the AC stopped blowing completely. It's a fully automatic unit and no air movement in any position at any temp. The compressor is coming on as I can hear it and driving on interstate I can feel the slightest bit of cold air coming thru. I bought a new resistor that was over a hundred bucks and it did nothing. I took the blower motor out and used clip on wires str8 to the battery and it works. ...
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I have a 2007 Sonata 2.0 crdi which is poorly. The heater stopped blowing out hot air on Saturday. The heater is only blowing slightly warm air. The passenger side seems to be slightly warmer. I have looked at the side of the heater matrix whilst rotating the temp control on the passenger side and this moves the plastic adjuster on the matrix freely. When I turn the fan speed controller then the adjustment on the drivers side on the matrix moves. Both of these move freely.
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Basically when I have it cranked on high (level 4) it feels like its blowing on level 2. some times when I start the car it doesn't even turn on. I have to tap or hit under the glove box for it to start. Is it wiring or could it be AC Blower fan or something else.
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Suddenly my 2007 Sonata Limited trunk and gas lid fuse keeps blowing.
I'm not an electrical guy so I don't know how to check with a meter, I oiled the latches. My car was rear ended near the tank lid/bumper area a few years ago, but everything worked fine til recently.
I can replace the fuse, but after a few uses it will blow, sometimes it will blow without being used. I can't tell if it's the trunk or gas lid causing the problem because nothing will happen immediately, Basically I am only finding out my fuse blew when I need to use it.
Where I could look to inspect the wiring for kinks or it's connection run?
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