When I accelerate A/C is fine but when I go to brake (RPMs go down and car downshifts) my A/C blower power goes from high to low and then fixes itself and if I brake again same thing but it does it intermittently. What it could be?
View 11 RepliesWent to have an oil change....service rep came in with my cabin air filter and said it needed to be replaced, I told him "later" as they charge too much for a simple filter.
Two days later I had the need to run my blower on high and it vibrated rather loudly.. I tried different positions on the vent switch but nothing worked.. then it came to mind the Jiffy lube incident. I went in and pulled the cabin air filter out and saw nothing wrong there. Upon further inspection I found a piece of an acorn in the blower wheel.
Moral of this story...if you changes cabin air filter, be sure to check for any debris that may fall off the old filter into the blower wheel when it is removed.
2011 Hyundai Sonata SE 2.4L .... I have 82,000 miles. Bought with 65,000 miles.
Now when I apply brakes at 60 mph or above i get wobbling (Vibration) on my steering wheel these days. Is it the rotors or pads or both or any alignment issues?
When I apply my brakes I hear a high pitched whine. I thought the pads needed replaced, but upon checking them there appears to be plenty of pad left. What else could this noise be? It's only when I apply the brake that I hear this, I suspect it may be something with the brake line but am not experienced enough to be sure.
View 3 RepliesI have had my certified 2010 Prius II, not two because it is a 2010 and 2010 used uppercase roman numerals for model designation, with 82000 miles about 3 months and sometimes when I apply the brakes I hear a high pitched whirring noise. I think the closest thing to compare it to would be a skill saw but not that loud.
View 2 RepliesSo I've started hearing a faint high-pitched noise when I apply my brakes. It's not EVERY time I apply the brakes, and it's not nearly as loud and annoying as the noise I hear other vehicles make when they need their brakes checked, but it's noticeable.
Also: There's a (possibly related) scratching/rattling noise that just started. I can only hear it with the windows down and it's not very loud. But it happens intermittently when the vehicle is moving or when it's braking, and it makes an almost sputtering sound when I slow to a stop. It will abruptly go silent before I'm fully stopped. Sometimes it cuts in and out, similar to when you've got a short in a speaker wire and the sound cuts in and out.
I'll be getting this checked out. Is this a "drop everything and go to the mechanic" issue, do you think, or more of a "get it looked at when you can"? I should note I haven't had any problems with the car actually braking (yet). It seems to function fine other than the new noises.
I have been driving my new ES 300h for a few days and have noticed that often when I apply the brakes, there is a faint high pitched noise in the cabin. It's not a brake noise of any sort, its clearly some electronic component. I was just wondering if this is a normal part of the regenerative braking system or not, as it is definitely quite audible and takes away from the otherwise very quiet ride of the vehicle.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2007 Sante Fe Limited that has 93k on it. Within the last year I have noticed the steering wheel will shimmy when you apply the brakes at high speeds, it's slowly came to the point now that anything above 40mph will cause the steering wheel to shake while applying the brakes. I am guessing I have warped or unevenly worn front rotors. The car supposedly had a break job done at 74k and this started happening at about the 90k mark.
I was looking at these : Front Performance Brake Rotors Posi Quiet Ceramic Pads for Santa FE 07 09
Second question, any tool list or required sockets sizes to complete a front rotor and pad replacement? I have a floor jack, jack stands, a set of 3/8 deep metric sockets. I also have a breaker bar. This is my only car so I want to make sure I have everything I need before I start taking stuff apart.
Me and a friend changed just the front brake pads on my hyundai sonata 2012 limited turbo (about 55$ ceramic Wagner thermo-quiets)about a week ago . This was the first ever brake job done for the car so I assumed the rotors were fine . We made sure it was greased up everywhere it was supposed to (Didn't replace or turn them) since then my front brakes have been squealing only when I lightly apply pressure on the brakes slowing down , and goes away completely when pressed down harder. I realized I should have probably changed or turned my rotors after I already drove with the new pads on the old rotors for about a week so it's probably too late now. I am just wondering whether this noise go away eventually (what I initially figured it would) from the pads perhaps wearing back into the old rotors ? Or am I better off not waiting for this because the noise won't to away and I should just change the pads again along with the rotors!?
View 43 RepliesWe have a 2013 Sonata. For a while now we have been hearing a thump-thump-thump from the back of the car. The thumping starts as soon as the car moves and it appears to come from the driver side.
We get the thumping in our parking lot, on local roads, on the highway - everywhere. The frequency of the thumping speeds up and slows down in lock step with road speed. The thumping doesn't get appreciably louder when we go around turns or when we apply the brakes. We feel no vibration through the brake pedal, or through the steering wheel, or through the seats or any other part of the car.
Six months ago we left the car with the dealer after taking the service advisor for a ride. He heard the noise but when examining the car they could not locate the source of it. They said the wheel bearings looked good, the tires looked good, the brake rotors looked good.
After that we replaced the old tires with new ones and had them installed and had the wheels and tires balanced at a shop that is known for doing this well. (They take care of a lot of SCCA weekend racers.) After all of that the thumping was still there, same as before.
Now the thumping is getting worse. We are planning to take the car back to the dealer to have them go over it again and start replacing parts to see if we can locate the source of the noise that way.
After driving my 2007 sonata for around 10 minutes, there is a very high pitched squealing sound that is intermittent and stops when the brakes are tapped. I was told it may be due to a "brake sensor"??
View 20 RepliesI have a problem with my 09 Sonata. Blower motor does not work at all, on any setting. I thinks it's not getting any power. When I turn the blower on, on the dash, little red light does not come on on the switch. I think the switch itself that controls the speed and power to the blower is not getting any power.
I checked fuses that control the blower and they are fine (I looked up fuse location online).
I have the same problem that many azera and sonata owners have where my headlights dim when i slow down or apply brakes etc on my 06 azera. I have found the alternator to battery positive issue and fixed that with another piece of 4awg wire added (now has 0 volt drop). That didn't fix the issue.
Then i seen a suggestion of checking/sanding all grounds. Did that to battery to chassis, chassis to trans, engine to chassis, pcm/misc grounds (bunch of 5), and 2 more by windshield washer reservoir. This didn't fix the problem either
I've had my alternator checked and my battery as well. My only questionable idea as of now is my battery. Its the right size and checks out fine but only rated at like 450cca, etc vs 700+ and I assume more reserve at advance auto parts? Not sure if the battery is oem or not it is some bs "powervolt" brand.
Intermittently, when I apply the brakes my car makes a wet, gurgling sound, as if I'm driving over wet rocks. My husband jacked up the car and said he sees something on the front axle CV on the right side, not on left, and said it looks like a bushing bearing. He said the brakes have zero grit and he let them spin under power (I'm relating what he told me as best I can, he's mechanical, I am not). I also have a rack and pinion leak, though small, he's worried about the hydroloic (sp?) assist going out. I can't say I know what any of this means, but he can't figure out why my car occasionally makes this terrible sound. I haven't noted any specific condition for the noise.
View 4 RepliesI have a 1995 Lexus ES300 with 130,000 miles on it. When I reverse, I get a low-pitch growling and as as soon as I apply the brakes by a high-pitch, ungodly screech. This noise is definitely coming from the rear wheel areas. I'm not sure which tire is the culprit (I hear both sides from while listening from both the inside and outside). It happens frequently but is particularly bad on rainy, snowy, misty, or high humidity days. Two years ago I replaced the pads and rotors. At this point, the pads look to have about 40% life on them yet. This problem started happening about a year ago.
My initial thoughts were that it was just rusting because of the frequency on high moisture days. But both noises are way too loud for that. My second speculation was that the emergency brake was catching, but after examining it I think not. I've taken the entire assembly (brakes, rotors calipers, and emergency brake) at each tire apart and looked for any obvious issues that look incorrect. No luck. I've also applied brake quiet with similar results. Now my thoughts are that the low pitch is the rotors being warped. But that doesn't explain the screech and why it only occurs in reverse.
Have 65k now..OEM breaks. Never an issue.. going along today had to make a fast turn left into a parking area. Hit the brakes doing about 50 made the turn. Slowly found and kept rolling to a parking spot. Went to apply the brakes and found the pedal was rock hard. The truck kept rolling slowly. Pure luck I was were I was.. I tried to shut the truck down and restart. Still rock hard pedal in up position. No breaks.. not enough to stop at idle. Checked the brake fluid and it was fine. Went inside the store to grab the delivery and when I came back out I tried to work the pedal down.. I felt some give.. put it in reverse to check it out..(couldn't go ahead no room.) slowly the breaks came back. Has been fine since.. driving all over town today. No codes or engine lights.
View 14 Replies1996 F350 PSD 7.3
Front Dana 60 mono beam
4 x 4
Last week I broke my front right caliper. I replaced the caliper, rotor and pads. Now, when I apply the brakes I pull to the left. I took the truck into my repair shop and let them figure it out. They were unable to repair the truck. They replace the master cylinder, all brake lines, calipers on both sides, brake pads, bearings on both wheels, vehicle alignment, tire balancing and tire rotation. The tires are three months old. Prior to last week i did not have any problems braking or steering. Driving at 60kmh the truck goes straight until i gently brake, it will slightly pull left.
AC blower isn't worked, I traced it back to the AC dash control panel (switch).
How to remove just the AC control panel/bezel? I see no screws or anyway to snap it out.
Car: 2007 Sonata 2.4L
I hadn't used my car for like 3 weeks until yesterday when I drove back to PA from MA. I turned the car on, a/c on and went for a nice 6 hour drive. About 2 hours in (with a/c working) I stopped for a break. The a/c blower would not turn on at that point. I could hear the compressor clicking on (and the RPMs would respond appropriately). I tried turning it off and on a couple of times but no go. I decided to keep on driving and figure it out when I got home.
About hour 5 I turned the knob from OFF to Max A/C and it turned on! It worked fine all the way home. I drove the car a couple of more times last night with no A/C issues at all. Well today the same thing happened. Went to go drive and no a/c blower. Compressor still turning on. I changed the only fuse/relay I could find that was dedicated to the blower inside the engine compartment (40A) with no luck. Am I missing any other important fuses?
Being that it intermittently works I'm thinking something might be lose or some electrical connection.
I have a 2006 Prius and lately, the fan will stop blowing hard on long drives on hot days when the fan is set to High. This happened on a 3 hour trip on the interstate and again when I was driving some back road for about 2 hours. The first time, I noticed the cabin temp was getting hotter so I went to switch the fan speed higher and noticed it was already on high. It was not set to Auto.
When I got home, I let the car cool down for about 30 minutes and when I turned on the car, the AC was blowing full speed and was getting cold like normal. When the fan speed slowed down on its own on the interstate, it was probably blowing at a speed similar to what the fan would normally blow if set to the middle position or maybe even below that. Why the fan would slow down on its own when set on high.
I also just checked the temperature coming from the vent after running the AC on LO temp for about 10 minutes. It was reading 50 degrees with a digital meat thermometer and 46 degrees with an infrared thermometer. So, when the car is cool, the AC seems to be working fine. Just wondering about the fan speed and the fact that the car gets really warm when it slows down on its own.
I have a 2007 Hyundai Sonata 3.3 Limited with auto air. The fan blower doesn't operate. Cannot find the relay.
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