Sonata NF (2006-10) :: A/C Clutch Not Engaging
Jun 26, 2013
I'm having trouble with my a/c clutch not engaging now for about 4 days. I believe I have narrowed it down to the field coil. I checked and I am getting 14 volts at the wire that plugs into the compressor. Auto a/c function will not turn on the a/c compressor light on the dash, but will turn on when manually pushed. When this first started, the radiator fan would kick on but spin slowly and now does not turn on at all when engaging a/c.
Per an older thread I checked the resistance at the a/c relay, though it did not tell me which pin(s). The only readings in ohms I could find from the a/c relay junction in the engine fuse box said 69-76 ohms, but I am unsure whether I am reading the correct wires or the correct way. Facing the front of the car, I am getting the above ohm reading from the bottom right pin to ground. Which pin is the correct one to test?
I am currently thinking the a/c clutch field coil is bad, but it stumps me that the radiator fan will not kick on either now.
Background of car : PO wrecked car, damaging the front end. I bought the car and fixed it up. A/C Pulley was replaced due to bent flange where serpentine belt travels. Also brand new radiator fan and replaced other seemingly non-related items to this issue.
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My 2006 Toyota Avalon Limited AC clutch is not engaging and I am wondering how I can bypass the computer to engage it. I think I have low pressure and I will be recharging the AC with freon.
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So I was visiting my brother yesterday and he was standing beside the car when I started it (in first gear, clutch disengaged). When I put the car in neutral and let the clutch out he asked if I had heard the noise it made. Makes it when the clutch is engaged (ie, pedal up) but not when engaged, so I can safely say it's not the throw-out, which would be noisy when clutch disengaged. Kind of a rattling noise, nothing really loud but is noticeable. Could this be something to do with the dreaded dual mass flywheel? Wouldn't imagine it has anything to do with the clutch disc as it would be held tight when the clutch is engaged.
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Recently, I clutched, the pedal went down, thought I heard something a little crunchy and then the pedal "popped" up. The clutch has been different since. Sometimes difficult to get in and out of gear. Have to double clutch. The first inch and a half of pedal has no resistance. When I release the pedal it pops up. You can hear it. It never stays down. I don't have to bring it up. Local garage thought it was something in the clutch itself. Otherwise clutch is tight. No slippage. Could it be in the hydraulics? Do we have to pull tranny to replace slave? It's not getting better and I want to fix before it gets worse. Car has about 100,000 miles.
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I have a 09 Sonata which when shifting once, the clutch depressed but did not come back up. While waiting for Hyundai service to come I tried to move the car down the hill to a shady spot on curb for my son and the clutch started working normally and has for 6 months...
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Just noticed yesterday that the compressor clutch does not disengage while the air conditioner is on. It is 2005 V6 Sonata Elite. All the other cars I have ever owned had compressor clutches that cycle. Internet searches indicate that there might be air conditioners with only a low-pressure switch.
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My mother In law's a/c is not working. Last year I replaced the compressor, fcm, and pressure sensor and nothing. Well fast forward a year and I'm here again trying to sort it out. I unplugged the connector to the compressor and there is 2 black wires 1 wire has 6 volts (not 12v) and the others reads nothing. When I turn the A/C on the fans do come on.
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SYMPTOM : 04 Trailblazer had intermittent A/C clutch engagement with the A/C system fully charged (showed about 80lbs on low side with engine off)...
SOLUTION : Three wire plug that plugs into the A/C pump has a bad connection on middle pin. I chased the middle wire with a pick and pushed firmly, the A/C pump kicked in, and out when I released pressure.
Testing the Harnass side: with relay #44 crossed (pins 30 & 87), with vehicle on or off, and the plug attached, you should have 12V+ at dark green (middle wire), you should have a ground on the black or brown wire, and you should have approx. 5v+ on the Lt Green or yellow wire.
Testing the clutch side: (harnass unplugged)
Black to red 3.7 ohms.
Black to other red 3.7 ohms.
red to red .01 ohms (fully closed circuit)
- If red to red open circuit, you have a bad switch on the compressor body---replace compressor.
- If red to black open circuit, you have a failed electromagnet in your clutch, relace clutch.
- If compressor side tests good, and you are missing 5v+ on harnass side, you have a bad connection.
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Driving home yesterday and the ac wouldnt come on my 2003 golf. Worked fine day before. All fuses are fine. Small fan works but large one needs to be replaced but its been that way. Ac button works fine too. What else would cause the clutch to not engage? I believe the pressure is fine as it worked fine the day before.
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I have recently purchased a 2003 Santa Fe 2.7 Auto and the air conditioning was not working. I noticed the compressor was not spinning so plugged a can of R134a into the low pressure port and noticed it had virtually no pressure. As per the instructions I filled the system until the compressor kicked in then filled it to near the optimum pressure (according to the temperature chart) of 45psi (it was probably nearer 40 as the can was running out).
The A/C was then blowing cold. However a few hours later when I tried it again, the compressor wouldn't engage. I haven't checked the pressure again yet as it was getting late but before I start looking into things I wanted to ask here if there are any particular common issues? I know on a Ford I had a few years ago I had to buy a smaller set of shims for the A/C clutch plate, is this the same with the Santa Fe?
I've read a bit about some connectors or switches but couldn't find much info. What would cause the compressor clutch to not engage when the A/C works well when it is engaged? As I say the pressure was about 40psi but I will check it again tomorrow, could it be it is a bit too low?
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I'm just over 45k miles, have a new mechatronics unit as of 39k, and I am beginning to see a new symptom for the first time since the replacement.... wondering if any of you have experienced this.
It's happened 2 or 3 times in the last couple weeks. The symptom suggests the clutch is not fully engaging. It is as if I had the clutch pedal in while in first gear, and I am feathering the clutch. This happens in "M" mode -- but I basically only drive in M so cannot say if it may happen in D or S.
Today, for example, I was at a red light on an incline. Light turns green, right foot off the brake and onto the throttle. Engine free spins up to nearly 4k and the car hold its position on the incline, without any movement or even a hint of movement. But there apparently was enough force going to the wheels to keep the car on the incline.
The engine does not rev as if it is in LC mode. It is free revving without any sound of it being under load.The clutches seem ok, this is not a clutch slippage problem. It's something occurring in the DSG's control.
I called my service advisor and he looked me up and said I have the latest and greatest MU, and my VIN does not qualify for the recent MU recall that is in the works. He said to just keep an eye on it for now (of course)
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Exactly what the title says.....when its cold out/cold start....engaging the clutch pedal it makes a click sounds up top of engagement?
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My clutch is not disengaging when i push in the clutch pedal. I have good clutch pressure, I have to basically rpm shift my way through the gears. Is a dead slave cylinder the most likely culprit for this? if so is there any special information i need to know when it comes to bleeding out the new one?
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I have a 2009 Hyundai sonata, 2.4, 5 speed manual, gls, when I press down on clutch whether from a stop or when shifting, I get a loud grinding noise and the radio goes dead at same time!, I know it is the starter attempting to "engage", at least that's what I believe it to be, it also "'starts "from, the "on " position when I press on clutch.
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Long story..couple months ago while coming home my 08 Sonata 2.4L manual 84,000 miles...started making this grinding noise and would stop when I pressed the clutch in and then sounded like something was grinding near the passenger front wheel.. well I get it home and the next morning my husband and I ride up the road so he can hear it.. was going to take it to the shop but it stopped and ran just fine till the other day.. crank the car and its fine.. once it gets warmed up and a few miles down the road it makes a knocking noise...but only when I let off the gas or idling .. even pressing on the gas just a tiny bit made it stop (even tried in while parked in the driveway with the hood up to make sure the engine wasn't just drowning it out) well I took it to the local dealership today and they said it was the flywheel and that it and the clutch and bearing needed to be replaced..
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Here's the story: was on my way downtown last night to get a new suit (I'm in Savannah, GA so it's hot) and AC was working great. The Jetta (2003 AWP) is a stock-everything-1.8T that has never had any AC work done to it from the day I bought it new. I figured it was doing just fine so just leave it alone. Anyway, leave the suit shop (bought a gray three-piece) and go back to the parking lot, start up and get ready to leave, no cold air from the vents. I get it home and do some reading on here and also in the Bentley manual and get into some preliminary troubleshooting. Here's what I have so far:
- Engine running/AC button ON/Blower on "3"/Recirculation OFF/Engine at operating temperature
- Turn blower ON - visually verified that clutch is not engaged and compressor is not spinning
- Shut car off, compressor does turn by hand easily
- With AC button on and blower on, passenger side cooling fan (behind radiator) is ON but driver side cooling fan IS NOT on - I think this indicates a problem from what I've read
- Checked cabin fuses 5, 16, & 25. All have low resistance (good continuity) and are not discolored. Just to make sure I scuffed the contacts with a scotchbrite pad and reinstalled them
- Same deal for the top-of-the-battery power distribution block. All fuses checked okay and were scuffed and reinstalled
- Moved on to the pressure switch/pressure sensor. My vehicle has the 3-pin sensor so jumping contacts is not a possibility. I need to rent/buy a duty cycle meter to check it. Any good tutorial on how to do this? Do I disconnect the connector and check it right at the switch or must I break out the wires and check it in parallel with the connector attached to the sensor?
- I grabbed a flat-head screwdriver and gave the high-pressure and low-pressure service valves a poke and got a good blast of pressure from them so I don't think the system is empty.
- Did a little more reading and found I needed to check voltage at the 3-pin connector on top of the battery power distribution block. I did this with the key ON - no power at any of the pins. Repeated with key ON and engine running with AC button ON and blower ON - still no voltage. For these measurements, the connector was DISCONNECTED. Does this matter? Do I need to have it plugged in to get voltage there (i.e., read the voltage from the rear of the connector with it installed?)
- Finally, and perhaps most enlightening, I suspected I may simply be low on R134a so I bought a can with a pressure gauge on it. Connected it to low-pressure side with engine running, AC button ON, blower on "4", recirculation OFF. The gauge read ~150 PSIG. Yes, this seems high to me too; however, the compressor is still not turning at this point. Does it need to turn to get a good pressure reading from the LP service valve? I recall from everything I read that if pressure is too low, the clutch won't engage, and if pressure is too high, the clutch won't engage
So, as far as I can tell I have a few problems...
1. The driver side fan doesn't run when AC button is ON
2. No voltage at the 3-pin connector on the battery power distribution block Incorrect methods...there is voltage there.
3. Low-pressure side of the AC system is too high Called and checked with a local mechanic...I won't receive correct pressures if the compressor is not turning.
My next steps are to check the voltage at the compressor connector for 12VDC. I suspect I'll get 0V because it's clearly not turning. I'll do this once I can figure out how to get the dang connectors apart without breaking them. 11-year-old heat fatigued plastic is brittle...
Finally got the compressor connector apart.. there is 12VDC on pin 1 and 0VDC on pin 2 (it's a ground, so there shouldn't be..ground continuity check good). Ohmed out the clutch...from what I can tell, that circuit is open. However, I am not 100% sure I was on the contacts because of how the connector is positioned. I'm going to get a dummy connector from a salvage yard and connect it up and make sure I have good contact before I call it a bad clutch.
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I got my R32 back 2 days ago after deploying to Iraq for a year. Upon driving it for the first time I took it a little easy on the car. I made sure the clutch was fully out before I did anything silly and what not.
Today I took it to the track and on the first launch I dropped it from like 3500 rpm and the RPMs shot up to 7500 and the car was moving at like 5 mph. I hit second gear and the rpm almost instantly shot up to 7500 rpm's again with the car moving at like 10 or 15 miles an hour.
After that, i let off completely. I tried one more time out in the warm up area to see what the hell was going on. Did the same thing. I could smell what I'm guessing was clutch burning pretty freaking bad. I'm, not 100% sure it was the clutch because I've never smelt a clutch smell that strong before.
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So i just took my 2010 Golf 2.5 into the dealer because it was not going into gear. Its a 5 speed with 12, 900 miles. They tell me they have to pull the trans and open it up before they can even tell whether or not the problem is covered under warranty!
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The car is a 2005 Hyundai Elantra with a 5-speed manual transmission. My father and I were replacing a worn out clutch disk on my sisters car. We replaced the clutch disk, pressure plate, and throw out bearing with no problems; however, when we put the transaxles back into the transmission we noticed that they could spin freely despite the transmission being in first gear. The clutch is not engaged even when the clutch pedal isnt being pushed in. We stopped putting the car back together until we could figure out what was wrong with it.
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Lately I've noticed that when slowly engaging first or reverse, the clutch has noticeable but not loud chatter, kind of like its gargling a little. I JUST changed the trans fluid from OEM to Amsoil 75W-90 API GL4 and its about the same time the noise came, but I'm not going to assume right now that this is the source of the noise. Clutch acts just the same, apart from this gargle.
Might be worth mentioning that this all seems to have started about the same time the temps around here started to dip below 30 on a regular basis
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I'm at my place in Florida 1,000 miles from home, and when I started the car in a mall parking lot, there was some grinding metallic noise for a few seconds and I couldn't get it into first or reverse and the clutch pedal was way down. I was able to get going in 2nd and eventually the clutch was back to normal and I could get 1st and R. What happened? Broke some fingers in the pressure plate? Seems to run fine now but have a 1,000 mile ride ahead in the morning.
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