Sonata NF (2006-10) :: 2009 - Transmission Started Sliding Into 4th From 3rd Gear
Jan 4, 2011
I recently had the transmission fluid changed in my 2009 Sonata NF 4 cyl. Current mileage is 60,000 miles. Directly afterwards, the transmission started "sliding" into 4th gear from 3rd gear. I assume that fluid contamination has caused a clog somewhere in the transmission. I have had the tsb done on the car for the transmission and the fluid had been exchanged @ 30,000 miles prior to this service.
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I have a M5OD that I replaced the clutch in in my '99 150 4wd in December . Manual Tranny. Now when taking off in 1st gear the transmission seems to be sliding or shifting backwards, but only in first gear. Got under my truck and looked, can't find any identifying marks to where it might be moving or what is causing this. All frame mounts are tight and the bell housing is flush with the motor. Yes, i did do the clutch change myself in shop class.
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Just got my 06 3.3 GLS. Sometimes it seems to hang in between 1st and 2nd gear. No amount of throttle will make the car go or rev up until you let off and it changes gear. Then its fine. 79k miles, no cel. When i say it wont rev it will be at full throttle and engine and vehicle speed doesn't change. I just had the heater core replaced but not sure how this would relate to that issue? Someone said he thought maybe the trans needs to relearn its shift points after having the battery disconnected but not sure I buy that.
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I noticed that recently my 2007 Sonata (108k Miles) is making a knocking sound when it shifts into second gear. It happens only when I back out of my garage and drive down the street and the car is cold. After that there is no more noise, and the transmission is shifting through the gears smoothly.
I recently replaced the transmission fluid, about 5k miles ago and I used the recommended type.
I read other postings with people having the same problem, and in those cases they pointed to the ABS self-check which occurs when you first start out. But this is definitely not my case as the noise is coincidental with shifting into 2nd gear and it only does it when the transmission is cold.
Could this be caused by the fluid temperature or maybe because the fluid has not had a chance to circulate through the transmission and fill all the cavities? Its rather strange thought that I just noticed it in the last month or so, if that were the case I should have had this problem before.
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My trans is getting to fourth and then will go back to third and stay there, two codes, P0734 + 0735, which means the converter isn't locking up in 4&5th gears. And it physically feels that way. after clearing and cycling ignition I can get it to stay in fifth and use cruise control, as long as I stay above 40mph, below that it goes to third and then cruise control also stops working....
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My 2009 Sonata, 2. 4 L engine, base model with automatic transmission started up and ran OK, but 20 minutes later when I parked the car and shifted towards Park the gears grinded in neutral, stopped grinding in Reverse, and then grinded again when I made it to Park, and I quickly turned off the engine.
When I restarted, it grinded in Park, OK past Reverse, Grinded in Neutral, and then OK in Drive. How serious this is, or if there is anything I can check out on my own?
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I own a 2009 Kia Optima 2.4 Auto. My good friend and his wife own a 2009 Sonata 2.4 Auto. My car has around 40k and his has 50k. We both notice a very strange noise that started well over a year ago on both cars. After driving for a while, then you stop at a stop light or go through drive-thru, the transmissions BUZZ. If you put the car in Neutral or Park, the buzzing stops. Even if you put the car back in gear, it won't make the noise again until it decides to do it again. They both only do this when the transmission fluid is hot. Never does it when they are cool and have not been driven. Both cars have had the transmission fluid changed at 30k and this noise was mentioned to both dealers at the time. Both cars had transmission related TSB software updates done, but nothing changed as far as the noise. Neither car would buzz for either dealer, so they were no support. I just find this odd that it is BOTH cars. Of course they have the same engine and trans, I just wonder how many more folks have this odd ball noise. It really sounds like a power steering pump thats low on fluid. Fluid levels are perfect.
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I have an 06 sonata 4 cyl automatic.Today the transmission was slipping in first gear like the car was revving in neutral.Then after restarting the car it was completely normal. Code P0731 showed up.
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Have a 2007 Sonata limited 3.3l, have trouble code P2507 and the car is stuck in limp home mode. Already changed input and output sensors on tranny. Battery is putting out 12V and alternator is putting out 14V when running. Cleaned PCM connections and packed with dielectric grease. Not sure where to look next.
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I have an 09 Sonata that jerks when automatically down shifting just before coming to a stop or slowing to make sharp turn. Car has 130k miles and I've never changed transmission fluid. BTW...it's been a GREAT car!
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I have a 2009 Hyundai Sonata V6 3.3. I'm currently about to hit 65k miles. About 2 weeks ago i felt the transmission slipping while I was on the highway. Yesterday my check engine light came on. I took it to my mechanic; according to the reader, the Dampener Clutch System was the problem. This morning when I took the car out, I realized that the Check Engine light went away but still could feel the transmission slipping.
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I own a 06 sonata with 95000 miles. Recently I've been having issues with my transmission. It occurs only at slow speed when i travel in first gear. What happens is when the car is moving, it feels like it shifts into neutral but indicator still shows D in the cluster. I press the accelerator nothing happens it just revs,no increase in speed whatsoever.
So that rules out slipping issues. Now i narrowed the problem down a little more whenever the problem crops up i shift the gear lever into sports mode, i feel a jerk and car shifts into first gear and it moves. If i dont shift into sports mode it catches gear in about 7 seconds.No fault codes.
And if i rev it high transmission goes into limp mode and stays in 3rd gear till i restart the car.Then i get P0731 incorrect first ratio.Changed ATF 7000 miles ago. Could it be a faulty range sensor?
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I have a 4 cylinder 2009 Sonata with an automatic transmission and it does not accelerate smoothly when starting out from idle. A slight touch on the accelerator pedal causes the motor to accelerate hard as though the pedal was pushed down a lot further than "a slight touch". Is this normal or should this car accelerate smoothly? I am wondering if there is a common problem with either the accelerator pedal sensor or maybe with the throttle servo.
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The transmission shifts into gear and when the clutch is released it starts to crawl forward. When the throttle pedal is pushed it still revs up the engine normally. But when the transmission is in gear and the throttle is pushed it revs up like it is in neutral. At first I thought this might be a transmission problem but then I figured it might be a linkage somewhere. After looking under the hood and under the car I still couldn't see anything that would cause this problem. I had this car less than a week when this happened and I had to be towed home.
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I just bought my 2007 GX470 last Friday. Last night I drove it home in the season's first snowstorm. I've got plenty of experience with winter driving and Toyotas, so I thought I knew what to expect.
I dropped down to 3rd gear for a long hill and the transmission or engine started surging. It would hold at 1100 rpm, then suddenly jump to 1400rpm when my foot was not even on the gas. Then it would drop back to 1100 again.
The car has 78000 miles on it.
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I have a 1999 Passat Sedan, V6 with automatic transmission, 62K miles. The Transmission has started slipping from 1st > 2nd, particularly up hills. Took it to my local mechanic who referred me to the AAMCO next door. They changed out the fluid and filter. No luck; still slipping. They want to do a transmission repair (soft parts) for $1650 with a 12-month warranty. For what it's worth, the TCU was replaced last spring (sunroof drain clog > flood > destroyed TCU and a lot more). Everything was working OK this spring after the repairs.
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My transmission has started slipping as car shifts into 2 and sometimes 3rd gear. It races and is not engaged, so there is no power for the few seconds (sometimes longer) when this happens. Car has about 216,000 miles - and it's time to also replace tires. As I look at the estimated bill, I'm having to decide if it's still a good investment to do the work on the car. I love the car and there is no rust or other problems.
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I have a 09 Subaru Forester (automatic) with 56,300 miles on it. Within the last 100 miles, the transmission has started 'hiccuping' as it changes gears. Also, when the car is cold and first started up, as I drive the rpms rise to around 3k when switching gears; sometimes holding there for anywhere from 3 seconds to 12 seconds before finally changing gears. As the car warms up, this problem disappears, but the 'hiccuping' continues. I took it to the dealer and they flushed out the transmission fluid, but problem still persists. I called the dealership asking for a new transmission because it is still under warranty, but they refused. They are going to check pan for metal shavings, and if they're present then they'll replace trans. If not, then they will replace other parts until problem is fixed.
Also, another important question: If I had the transmission fluid replaced, would it be possible that they may have cleaned out any metal shavings, and when they check 100 miles later, there wouldn't be any? I'm worried that I'm going to get screwed because they eliminated any metal shavings and when they go to look again none will be there because there hasn't been enough mileage put on the car to make them appear again. I do not know enough about cars to know if this is even a possibility. They refuse to honor the warranty until they go through a checklist of possible repairs, and I'm nervous that list will run out when I hit 61,000 miles and warranty runs out.
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Today I visited a buddy who lives on a pretty steep hill. I always set my E-brake while in Neutral to make sure it's holding the truck before sliding it into park. So I got out and unloaded a few things and was in his garage. I heard a skidding sound outside, I was about 40 feet away from it when I looked out my truck was skidding down the hill!
I ran out and to the drivers door, opened it and pressed on the brakes with left hand right when it hit the bottom of the hill and it barely stopped from hitting the blue car parked on bottom of the hill. Next time if I stop on this hill I'll make sure it''s nose up hill and make sure I have 4X4 engaged to have all wheels locked up. I know this probably happened because the lack of weight on the rear wheels but this was a pretty crazy scare with only 7800 miles on her!
You can see the skid marks from my rear wheels, my friend lives in the middle of the block.
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I've got a 2007 Sonata that has started blowing HOT air. It's like the compressor isn't on. In looking for the issue, I looked for blown fuses first because I find it hard to believe that the AC would work fine and then stop working minutes later. Sure enough, I found a blown A CON fuse in the fuse box under the hood. No problem right? Just replace it and everything will be A-OK. WRONG. Every time I replace the fuse and test the AC it blows. I'm thinking maybe something with the relay?
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i own a 2010 corolla s with only 3000 miles on it. it is a 5 speed and the other day, when revving out 3rd gear to 5500 rpm, my motor started missing, and my check engine, vsc, and trac control lights came on. i turned off the motor and then started it back up and it ran fine but the dummy lights stayed on. i took it to the dealer and they check the codes and it showed that cylinder 2 missed. after explaining to them how it happened and taking a service technician for a ride, they took off the valve cover on my motor, and seen that 3 rocker arms had FALLEN OFF and they tried making me pay $700 to fix it because i was "over revving the motor". I was told that the rocker arms cant withstand that high of rpms and they will fall off due to the floating design "not bolted". but after 2 hours of arguing, they said they would cover it, but only this 1 time. I don't understand why they have the rev limiter set at 6,300 on these cars, when the rocker arms are capable of coming off at 5,500.
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