Sonata NF (2006-10) :: 2009 - Jerking At Around 20 Mph When Slow Down After 10 Minutes Of Driving
Apr 26, 2016
My 2009 Sonata 2.4L GLS is jerking at around 20mph when I slow down for the first 10 minutes that I start driving. I have taken it to the dealership 2 times. The first time, they updated the computer module for the transmission, however the problem was still there afterwards. The next time, I did a transmission fluid flush and fill, but yet I still have the same jerking problem.
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Sonata NF 2.0 ... 3 days ago, my care drove for - 4 minutes then engine shut down. Try to re-start the car but unavailable. I towed the car to workshop, they claimed high possibility is the fuel pump faulty.
Initially a check was done found fuel pump good (the technician disconnect the tube before the fuel injector assembly). They did a diagnose test found no error code registered.
Subsequently check on the fuel pump found no fuel come out before the fuel injector assembly (same as previous, disconnected before the assembly). Fuel pump was replaced. The engine can start running but will shut down after a while.
What is the possible cause and how to identify the root cause.
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New prob for my 2006 Sonata 3.3 L. After I drive it for 5 to 30 minutes, the ESC Off light comes on. Prior to it coming on the ESC off button appears to work fine, and if I peel out from a stop the ESC system seems to work fine. The only thing I have done recently was change the battery and the drivers low beam headlight. I have tried disconnecting and reconnecting the battery again, but same prob. Is it time to just take it into the shop? BTW, I already had the recalled brake/stop light switch replaced over 6 months ago.
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A few months ago, my van started jerking after about 45 minutes on the freeway. When it started jerking, the check engine light came on and the windshield wipers would come on just once. If I ignored it and kept driving, the jerking would become more frequent and violent until I pulled off the road and turned the car off, then back on. After turning it back on, everything would be normal again, sometimes until I finished my commute to work, sometimes it happened every 5-10 miles. Never any problem in town.
A few weeks later, and in addition to the previous stuff, when driving in town, the windshield wipers would come on just once when braking. That would happen a few times a day, with no check engine light and no other issues. Now, when you hit the brakes, in addition to the wipers coming on, sometimes the RPMs will drop until the engine dies. Today, it died 4 times in 10 minutes.
I've changed the very corroded ground strap from the block to the firewall, cleaned up the battery posts and cable connectors (dirty, but no corrosion), checked for corrosion in the wiring harness underneath the battery and I'm not finding anything.
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Accent with about 120,000 miles on it. Last summer, it started jerking badly from park to 1st and 1st to 2nd for the first five or ten minutes that I drove it. It stopped during the winter (Texas winter, so a mild fall in most places with seasons), the check engine light never came on, and the transmission fluid was fine (both color and volume), so I didn't get it checked out. Now that it's summer again, the jerking has started back up. I've also noticed in the last few weeks weak acceleration after stopping (again, usually only in the first ten minutes or so of driving). And today my check engine light came on.
I've checked the fuses, and I just got my oil changed (they said the check engine light was giving them a transmission code, but didn't elaborate). I have a leaking valve cover gasket and cracked belts that I'll be repairing ASAP. Is it possible that either of those are causing this problem?
Since I'm a single young woman, I don't want to go into a shop without being fully informed (I can't tell you how many times I've been ripped off). My research suggested a couple things:1. It might be the coil packs.2. I might need a new transmission.
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We have a 2009 Sonata with barely 50k miles - always garaged. It has been a great car but recently has come up with a couple of quirks.
I was driving last week and heard a loud "pop" behind me. Really loud..... I pulled over and found that the left rear window was missing!
I took the car to a local auto glass place and they found the missing window down in the door, I really though that it had fallen out and actually went back to the spot on the road where the noise happened and looked for it.
Anyway, the glass shop lifted the window back in place but had little interest in making the power part work again.
Now, I have had power windows fail on other cars before but they always got stuck, I have never had one "disappear". Would this be a safety issue that Hyundai might cover?
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I have a 2003 Pontiac Vibe and recently have had problems...after I drive 15-20 minutes the car will begin to slow down...even if I give it more gas the car will stay a constant speed...say 30 mph and will not go faster...if I down shift..(manual trans)... I can get the car back to normal speed...and sometimes it smells hot when I get out...like brakes....on the highway the car will begin to slow as well and stay at 45...then come back after downshift..
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I own a 2009 Kia Optima 2.4 Auto. My good friend and his wife own a 2009 Sonata 2.4 Auto. My car has around 40k and his has 50k. We both notice a very strange noise that started well over a year ago on both cars. After driving for a while, then you stop at a stop light or go through drive-thru, the transmissions BUZZ. If you put the car in Neutral or Park, the buzzing stops. Even if you put the car back in gear, it won't make the noise again until it decides to do it again. They both only do this when the transmission fluid is hot. Never does it when they are cool and have not been driven. Both cars have had the transmission fluid changed at 30k and this noise was mentioned to both dealers at the time. Both cars had transmission related TSB software updates done, but nothing changed as far as the noise. Neither car would buzz for either dealer, so they were no support. I just find this odd that it is BOTH cars. Of course they have the same engine and trans, I just wonder how many more folks have this odd ball noise. It really sounds like a power steering pump thats low on fluid. Fluid levels are perfect.
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When I was at about 40k miles I started to have this problem. Driving above 35mph the road noise started to get louder. I first thought it was my tires but the noise went away after driving about 1k miles. Now I'm at 72k miles on different set of tires and the noise is even louder. According to a few mechanic shops, they say that there is not enough air flow going into the engine. But I'm not sure if that's the problem. It's not under warranty anymore and I can't just take it to the dealer to find out what's wrong.
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My 2009 sonata started having issues with slight up and down accelerations while cruising and the check engine light would come on Then during start up the engine would accelerate up and down about 1500 rpms. I have taken it to two dealers neither could find anything wrong and said their was no record of an event on the computer. Now the car is stalling while driving, once at highway speed. It has happened three time this week. After coming to a stop, I wait a few minutes and the car starts up like their is nothing wrong. The engine light comes on for a while.
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I have a 2009 Hyundai Sonata V6 3.3. I'm currently about to hit 65k miles. About 2 weeks ago i felt the transmission slipping while I was on the highway. Yesterday my check engine light came on. I took it to my mechanic; according to the reader, the Dampener Clutch System was the problem. This morning when I took the car out, I realized that the Check Engine light went away but still could feel the transmission slipping.
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I'm having a serious problem with my 2-year old 09 Sonata....
It happened for the third time: after driving for a couple minutes, numerous dashboard signals flared up and my power steering suddenly seemed to turn off - all in the middle of driving. The first two times I took the car in, they found problems. One of the malfunctioning components was the timing belt, and they replaced it for us. After the third time, however, they couldn't find any problems and my car was deemed "perfectly normal." They didn't do anything for us.
Now, I'm left with a 'normal car' that I know will show the same problem sooner or later.. maybe in a more dangerous situation than the previous 3.
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This is in regards to my daughters 2009 I4 Sonata. In cold weather, like we are having now in Chicago. After the car is sitting all day or overnight, it will jerk (nice technical term) when accelerating until the car warms up. What is the problem is and how to resolve it?
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My 2006 Sonata has 63K miles and today started jerking (Hunting) after about 10 miles. Here is what I know. It starts on a level run and disappears when on an incline, but as soon as the crest is reached, and on the downside, it starts hunting again. When it is jerking, around 55 to 60 mph, I switch the transmission lever to Autostick and it stops, back into drive again and it starts again. This is so repeatable there has to be a connection. EVERY time I switch to Autostick the jerking stops, end when I put it back into drive, it starts again. The jerking is severe enough that it is easily detectable. It appears that when the transmission is under load, like going uphill, the jerking stops.
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Two weeks ago A/C was slow to cool down on and blowing warm air for several minutes; works fine since then. One week ago, check engine light came on. At the dealership now, they say it the check engine light is for the clutch heater and this would also relate to problem with a/c not cooling properly. Waiting to hear what repairs will cost. Is this OK to continue driving? What exactly is going on? Does this part need to be replaced? Should we just tape over the icon on the instrument panel to avoid looking at the pesky light?
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When coming to a stop in my 2007 Hyundai Sonata GLS with a 2.4 4 cyl engine all of a sudden you get something that acts like the car is jerking or surging or rough idling or something. Hard to tell exactly which but if I put it in neutral and rev the engine a little it smooths out. Only happens when coming to a stop. What caused it?
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I have an issue with the transmission not allowing me to shift from Park if I drive for couples of minutes unless I re-start the car. Also, if I drive for couples of minutes while I'm putting the cruise control on Standby mode or ON, it will shut off by itself along with the light for the economy driving mode.And again if I re-start the car everything will work.
This video will show you what I'm talking about : [URL] ....
My car is GLS 2011 and has 85,000 miles.
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Don't recall exactly how long this has been going on, maybe a month. Between 20-45 mph, car sounds like it should shift. It finally does at 45 and all is well. But when I am in a 35 mph zone, the whining noise is scary. Is this serious?
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I have a 2010 F150 SCREW with 4.6l 3v 4wd. Up to 100,000 miles nothing more than tires, brakes, and evap purge valve (50,000 miles). Check engine light came on right around 100,000 miles and had no driving problems other than some crappy fuel mileage. Did the following:
Changed evap purge valve, reset cpu by unplugging. CEL came back on after about 200 miles
Took the truck to a shop to get oil change, change plugs, diff fluids, transfer case fluid and get CEL looked at. Shop recommended changing intake gasket as you could see gummy type fluid on passenger side valve cover. When removing the intake found the intake cracked, changed gasket and intake. They reset the light. 200 to 250 miles later the CEL came back on.
Took it back to the same shop, left it with them for the weekend. they think it could be the O2 sensors. I went out and got the shop all 4 O2 sensors and they installed for free (seeing as I spent $2500 with them for all the previous weekends work) 200 to 250 miles CEL came back on
Determined to find time to have another shop look at the problem and trying to get it to a family friend, wasted about a month. At the end of February stopped at a friends house after being there for 20 minutes tried to start truck, it wouldn't fire. It would crank but no fire. Called for a tow and while waiting tried to crank the truck and it fired up, like nothing was wrong. Cancelled the tow truck and drove right to dealership. They determined it was the MAF sensor. Spent the $500 to have them diagnose and change MAF. All things good for about a month and about 3000 miles...
Now in the past 2 weeks it has done the following: I am a construction manager so i am in and out of my truck all day so the engine is never really a cold start except for the mornings when driving to work, it stalled while leaving work on a Friday at low speed. luckily I was able to pull in to a gas station. Tried to restart and it cranked but no fire. after 5 minutes or so tried again, fired up drove home the 35 miles with no problem, truck had power, smooth idle. No CEL.
Same weekend on Sunday, coming home from church at highway speed truck got sluggish, wrench light came on, no response to throttle. Rolled to a stop and then the oil light came on and chime from dash. Turned the key all the way off waited 10 seconds, again crank but no start. Waited 5 minutes and it fired up no problem. Church is only 3 or 4 miles away, no problem going to church, 2 miles into the trip home is when it stalled.
Drove all week, 500 plus miles without a stall or problem
Coming home on Saturday from my kids soccer game again 4 or 5 miles away (no problem going to game) truck stalled at highway speed. Coast to a stop, wrench comes on and then oil light, chimes from dash. Turn key off, wrench and oil light do not come back on. Try to start, again crank but no fire. waited the 5 minutes or so and it fired up fine. (Earlier in the day i got gas, 87 octane, from a one of my regular gas stations from 1/4 tank to full)
Today coming home from church but running an errant the truck stalls after making a left turn about 3 miles from the church at low speed.
All of this without a CEL. What can solve this problem. Clean a sensor? clean throttle body? Gas tank additives? I am due for an oil change and may ask the dealer to look at it but its going to be time consuming as I cant radially repeat the problem and there is no CEL. As I am thinking about the different times it stalled, other than the first time I was probably around 1900 to 2300 rpm.
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My son has a 2007 sonata v6, daughter has one too. Both have about 130K miles, and both developed slow coolant drip leaks. I took off both hoses on both cars, cleaned the crud from the housings and replaced with new hoses and clamps. Problems solved in daughter's car, not so in sons car. I note that it looks like the area below the thermostat housing is wet - and thought that was from the crud/hose situation. But he is still losing coolant, even more now that its getting colder at night, and I's sure its not the hose connection anymore.
The car will generally NOT leak when hot, only as/when it cools off. I.e. puddle in the morning situation.
Looking at the diagrams, it looks like that "housing" is really a connection to the crossover pipe, heater hoses, other stuff (throttle body heat) and also contains what looks like a temp sensor.
I suppose any of these are possible, but my first thought was either a leaky temp sensor (or possibly loose) or something more serious like a cracked housing, leaking o-ring, gasket etc.
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My radio never turns on with the car right away. The only way it turns on is when i crank my heat on for about 3-5 minutes. Then it powers on. Fuses seem ok. The service center didn't know what could cause this...
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