Sonata NF (2006-10) :: 2009 GLS Clutch Pedal Went Down Then Popped Up
Jul 24, 2016
Recently, I clutched, the pedal went down, thought I heard something a little crunchy and then the pedal "popped" up. The clutch has been different since. Sometimes difficult to get in and out of gear. Have to double clutch. The first inch and a half of pedal has no resistance. When I release the pedal it pops up. You can hear it. It never stays down. I don't have to bring it up. Local garage thought it was something in the clutch itself. Otherwise clutch is tight. No slippage. Could it be in the hydraulics? Do we have to pull tranny to replace slave? It's not getting better and I want to fix before it gets worse. Car has about 100,000 miles.
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I'm at my place in Florida 1,000 miles from home, and when I started the car in a mall parking lot, there was some grinding metallic noise for a few seconds and I couldn't get it into first or reverse and the clutch pedal was way down. I was able to get going in 2nd and eventually the clutch was back to normal and I could get 1st and R. What happened? Broke some fingers in the pressure plate? Seems to run fine now but have a 1,000 mile ride ahead in the morning.
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M/T 2010 Sonata. I'm just out of warranty at 102,000 mi. No issues before with clutch. I noticed a clicking or crunching sound when pushing the clutch pedal down. I took a gander and noticed the pedal was traveling farther than it used to because there were indentations in the carpet. So this happens for about 3 days. Then I start the car and cant get it into gear. If I shut it off, it easily goes into gear and I can drive. Usually it is ok after that point but is getting worse. Mechanic briefly tried to bleed it but the pedal stayed on the floor. He was able to get it to its original problem but said if he replaces the master & slave cyl then might as well do a new clutch. Because I had no slippage, no pedal issues or anything prior to clicking. Is 102k miles and 6 years usual time for these components to fail?
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I have a 09 Sonata which when shifting once, the clutch depressed but did not come back up. While waiting for Hyundai service to come I tried to move the car down the hill to a shady spot on curb for my son and the clutch started working normally and has for 6 months...
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I recently purchased a 2011 Sonata GLS with a manual transmission--it has a mere 15k miles on it. I'd have to say that after driving it around for a bit I really don't like the gas pedal or the clutch pedal as compared to my old Honda, and my friend's new VW. The gas pedal is super sensitive--I feel like 90% of the throttle is in the first 10% of movement. I'm traveling at 60 mph and it feels like the pedal is only depressed 1/8 inch.
It's kind of the opposite for the clutch pedal. It grabs fine, that is, I can feel the engagement point perfectly, but there is so much travel. I feel like I lift my knee to my chest and have to push the clutch through feet of travel. More literally though, I can't just do most of the work by rotating my foot on the heel--I have to lift my entire leg. I prefer cars with much less travel and think the Elantra was pretty good in fact.
I don't have an eco mode since it's a manual so that rules out desensitizing the gas pedal by those means... Is there any way to reduce the sensitivity of the gas pedal, and to maybe reduce the total overall travel of the clutch pedal? It has to be reliable and safe..
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Sometimes my clutch pedal stays down on the floor. I can bring it back alive after a few pumps. I assume one of the oil cylinders died. Looking for a schematic of where it s located?
A few days before I felt a metal scraping sound when I pushed the clutch pedal down. The scraping resistance happened when the pedal was aprox. 2-3 cm's from the floorboard. It scratched like 15 to 20 times and then went away. Now the clutch pedal died on me.
Fluids are checked and on level. 2009 2.2 CRDI diesel with 45.000km's ...
The dealer says it can be one of the 2 cylinders but since it's not happening all the time he suggest bringing it in and change them all.
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It was about 7 degrees Fahrenheit and I started my car and it took a few seconds longer to start then normal but I kind of expected that as it was pretty cold.
Then after letting the engine warm up a little bit I went to leave and the clutch pedal was sticking for a second or two between shifts and I still kind of ignored it and drove home, well after a 45 minute drive by my house it was still doing it.
The next day I drove it to the store and after sitting in my garage for a while it was fine. A few days later, (well last night) I went on a break to get some food and it did the same thing when I left to do that but after it was warmed up to normal operating temperatures it was fine again. When I first started it, the temp was 13 degrees.
I am trying to figure out if there is something wrong with my car or if all of them do that. I am going to stop by the local dealership on my way home today but if it is normal I don't want to waste my time. I just don't like the fact that I live in Minnesota and the temperature is going to get colder then that. I mean what is it going to do then?
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Title should say Throw-out bearing aka Release bearing.
I have a 2010 5 speed Corolla CE. Having problems with their Throw-out bearings. At around 8000 miles the sqeaking/chirping noise of the bearing was too much so I brought in it to the dealer to fix. They agreed and made the repair.
Now it is only at 10000 miles (22000km) and I can hear it starting again. Just wondering if it is a common problem?
Noise comes and goes as the clutch pedal is released. If you push it in it will go away. It also will happen in all gears but easiest to hear in neutral.
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Just bought a 2009 Accent 5 speed I have 2500 miles on it .The clutch engages when the pedal is right at the top. Is there an adjustment on this vehicle I would prefer it to engage about mid stroke.
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I have a co-worker that is having trouble with his 06 passat. He explained that the clutch pedal has no resistance and is on the floor. The dealer he took it to is saying he needs a new clutch and pressure plate claiming that the "pedal doesn't have pressure on it is because the clutch discs won't engage" which sounds backwards if you ask me. Anyway, what could this be? Where could we start tracking this down?
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Just the other day I got the clutch replaced on my 06 WRX. I took it to a reputable workshop that I've dealt with before. When I got it back the clutch pedal feels very soft and goes to the floor with ease, whereas before it was a lot harder and felt good. It works good and dosen't slip but just a soft pedal. I also went for the OEM replacement and not aftermarket. Some of the google searches I've read say the pedal will get harder after about 1000-2000 km.
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My stock 2009 ford f250xl 4x4 with a 5.4 and 6 speed has been giving me a weird sound lately started about a month ago and only happens on a cold start situation meaning if it sits over night it will do the sound. the sound goes away after 3-5 min of warm up in my driveway, the sound happens when i push the clutch pedal to the floor. it has no pronounced abnormal sounds through out the rest of the day when its hot which perplexes me, check out the vid on my u tube site for a sound of it.
MAH00111 - YouTube
MAH00115 - YouTube
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2007 Accent pedal won't depress. Bearing making noise for a few months. Is tranny snout toast or is it fixable?
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I was driving and the clutch started acting strange. Before I could get home, the pedal went hard and moving was about impossible. My husband replaced the clutch, throwout bearing, and also the slave cylinder. He got everything put together and the clutch was not disengaging. We have bled the system from the master and also from the slave multiple times, about 10 over the past few months. Still we are not able to get the car moving. The pedal has pressure behind it but nothing. We have checked for leaks and have not found any.
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I'm having trouble with my a/c clutch not engaging now for about 4 days. I believe I have narrowed it down to the field coil. I checked and I am getting 14 volts at the wire that plugs into the compressor. Auto a/c function will not turn on the a/c compressor light on the dash, but will turn on when manually pushed. When this first started, the radiator fan would kick on but spin slowly and now does not turn on at all when engaging a/c.
Per an older thread I checked the resistance at the a/c relay, though it did not tell me which pin(s). The only readings in ohms I could find from the a/c relay junction in the engine fuse box said 69-76 ohms, but I am unsure whether I am reading the correct wires or the correct way. Facing the front of the car, I am getting the above ohm reading from the bottom right pin to ground. Which pin is the correct one to test?
I am currently thinking the a/c clutch field coil is bad, but it stumps me that the radiator fan will not kick on either now.
Background of car : PO wrecked car, damaging the front end. I bought the car and fixed it up. A/C Pulley was replaced due to bent flange where serpentine belt travels. Also brand new radiator fan and replaced other seemingly non-related items to this issue.
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So I was visiting my brother yesterday and he was standing beside the car when I started it (in first gear, clutch disengaged). When I put the car in neutral and let the clutch out he asked if I had heard the noise it made. Makes it when the clutch is engaged (ie, pedal up) but not when engaged, so I can safely say it's not the throw-out, which would be noisy when clutch disengaged. Kind of a rattling noise, nothing really loud but is noticeable. Could this be something to do with the dreaded dual mass flywheel? Wouldn't imagine it has anything to do with the clutch disc as it would be held tight when the clutch is engaged.
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Just noticed yesterday that the compressor clutch does not disengage while the air conditioner is on. It is 2005 V6 Sonata Elite. All the other cars I have ever owned had compressor clutches that cycle. Internet searches indicate that there might be air conditioners with only a low-pressure switch.
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When I press the brake pedal, the car will stop. But if I keep pressing it while the car is stopped, the pedal wants to keep going towards the floor. I have to press hard for it to do this. I have bled the brakes. I've checked the calipers and the hoses for leaks and don't see anything. The master cylinder is topped up and I don't see any fluid underneath it. It doesn't appear to be leaking. The funny thing is, when I turn the engine off and press the pedal, the pedal comes to a stop and doesn't want to move after I pressed on it as hard as I can.
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My dad drives an '06 Sonata. And he recently broke a brake line and had gotten it fixed. His current problem is that his brake pedal hasn't returned after getting the line fixed. What can he do to fix that? The pedal is really low and is spongy. And his ABS and ESC lights are also on.
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I have a 2007 Sonata GLS 4cyl. Anyhow lately my brake pedal is going right to the floor. The brakes seem to work fine, but if I keep constant pressure on the pedal it will slowly go all the way to the floor. My rear rotors and pads have been changed a couple of months ago and I'm pretty sure my front brakes are good. What could be causing this? I also checked underneath the car for leaks and there doesn't seem to be anything leaking underneath.
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I drive almost all the time in stop and go traffic and my knee hurts because the brake pedal is too high. My wife also noticed that the brake pedal is unusually high. Is there any adjustment I can make to lower the brake pedal?
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