I feel my 2009 Sonata with 25k miles has a fast startup idle.
It goes upto 2200 RPMs. It runs fine otherwise.
I will keep an eye on it to get more RPMs and timing.
2008 SONATA i4. The transmission started to whine a lot when first driven when cold, well transmission was replaced under warranty due to "pump failure"? I noticed that the loaner car I received for tranny replacement had a knock at startup so I called and told the dealership about it, they said it was the timing chain, it was a v6, oddly it didn't sound like timing chain to me, started after fast idle and went away within about 100 feet of driving.
2 days after I got my car back it would knock after I started it up cold when it came down off fast idle, and would knock for about 100 feet of driving or so, then the knock would disappear until the next cold start. exactly like the loaner V6. Well took my car in to have it looked at, got another loaner, 09 sonata I4, same knock, service couldn't replicate problem with my car.
Went ahead and got oil change, drove car home and the next day it had the same knock at startup when cold. Just took it back to dealership to have them look at irregular tap/knock when warm at idle, also car still has startup knock, but just not as loud.
I have a 2006 Sorento, Idle at start, when cold is 2000 to 2200 rpms. When engine warms idle comes down to normal, 1000.
Replaced several vacuum lines, none showed any leaking but replaced to be sure.
Replaced the PCV valve, the old valve was not closing as it should and the replacement seemed to work some.
Replaced the Idle Air Control Valve and checked the old one for movement, moved an 1/8 of and inch from when cold to when hot. The new IAC did improve the problem some.
Tested throttle position sensor voltage, was good through range of motion (including being tapped on to simulate the running of the engine).
Sprayed carburetor cleaner around the engine when cold to look for a possible manifold leak, nothing noted.
Noticed one area that brings down the high idle when sprayed with carburetor cleaner is in the front top center, around a small plastic cylinder which is part of the intake system and has a vacuum manifold which changes the position of the cylinder with engine operation. I have two pictures of the area attached, the white cylinder is at end of paint stick, the vacuum manifold is to the right of the paint stick and yes there are vacuum lines not hooked up in the pictures. Hoping this is not a manifold leak.
I have a new to me 2009 matrix. I have noticed that the RPMs at around 2,200 when driving in town at 40 MPH then after a few minutes they drop to 1,600. I know I'm wasting gas running 2,200 RPM when driving at 40 MPH so I have started putting the car in neutral then quickly back into drive and the RPMs are at 1,600. I am also putting the car in neutral as I come to a red light or stop sign RPMs drop to around 900.
View 1 RepliesI am having a new problem with a clunk when I brake my 2009 Sonata. It only happens the first 1-2 times I brake while going forward. In other words, I back my car down my driveway, no clunk. Then when I drive down my street, the first 1-2 times I brake it will start slowing and then suddenly I will feel the brakes grab and it feels like a clunk (although now real audible cluck, just the feeling). after the clunk my car continues to slow as normal. The rest of my ride I do not feel it. After I get out of work, it does the same thing as I am headed home.
I have never felt this before, and find it strange that it only happens after the car has been sitting a while and goes away after 1-2 brakings.
My 06 Sonata runs very rough at start up when the car is cold. It appears that it is missing on several cylinders. This last for about 15 seconds and then the car runs fine. What could be causing this problem? No check engine light.
View 10 RepliesThe last couple of times I've started the car from a cold start the RPM's fluctuate up and down for about 30 seconds and then it stops.
View 8 RepliesI have a 06 sonata 3.3L v6. I have been having misfire problems and lack of power under 2000 rpms and at idle when I am either a stop or just warming the car. What is happening I feel it shake and feel the misfire but after it gets up after 2000 rpm at highway speeds its completely fine. It struggles getting up to speed if i press on the accelerator. I have changed the spark plugs and all the ignition coils maybe about 2 months ago, I have also have changed the camshaft position sensor for the rear bank. I believe that it could be the crankshaft position sensor but I want to make sure....
Obd2 codes: p300,301, 303, p0012, p0011, p0014,
Well, it's looking sort of depressing for my '06 Sonata! I had an oil change done yesterday and now I'm getting a Low Oil Pressure Light on idle under 1,000 rpm's. Today the check engine light came on and it's code P0021.
I also experience very noisy "bearing" type noise upon start-up which happens for about 10 seconds or so. This has been going on for a month or so.
During my online research it's appearing that I may be suffering from the dreaded Timing Chain Tensioner I've read a lot about.
I'm aware of the TSB (10-EM-006) and have a copy of it if needed.
My question is this...my Sonata has 151,000 miles on it, well beyond the 100k warranty period. Will Hyundai repair my issue as a warranty item under that TSB?
I've noticed the 2013 Corolla has a second+ gap between the moment you press the pedal and the engine RPMs actually rise. Most often, the car jerks as the RPMs rise too fast to keep up with my foot.
In fact, if I press the pedal all the way to the floor and release it quickly enough, the engine doesn't even react.
I had my license revoked for a year so my baby had sit for a year with know one to drive it.. now before i had to put her in storage she ran fine no problems what so ever.. I would time to time start her up for a while over the winter but because of family problems there was a time where she sat for couple months without starting and letting her run. Now when i had the time to do it it was like i walked up and got into a whole different car, here is what i got going on....
Go to start it up and she will idle up to 600rpms then die out i would have to give it gas to try to start her but the thing is i can only go up to 2k rpms or it will just auto drop down to about 800rpms. i would usually have to floor it all the way to even get it to stay idle by her self its not as bad anymore but still does it. Also it smells like gas like crazy when it starts up,i had a half of tank when i kept her in storage so idk if its just bad gas doing this but seems like a lot of problems just for having bad gas in it, and she puts out smoke white smoke..now i know shes running rich because me and a buddy looked into it. also there is a crazy sound since shes been sitting that has never happened before it sounds almost like the belts need to be lubed up but the belts are fine and its loud from under the front bumper my friend said he thinks i blow my turbo but I don't see how that could be just from sitting for time to time.. the car and motor has a shake to it as well.
I tried to drive her up and down my hill a couple times to see if i can just break some cob webs loose or anything but you give her gas she barely once to go and if she does she get to 2k rpms then die down and hardly moves and if i floor it to the ground it takes a bit to get up and going but then drives seeming like nothing was wrong. I have never had any of this issues before I put her for storage and now i have 4 weeks till I get to roam the streets again but sadly my b5 is dying on me.
Motor specs: Stock 1.8t 75k miles 5 speed tiptronic 1999....
I have 114,00 miles on my car. Plugs changed and decarbonization done at 99,000 as well as ECM reprogram or update ($99). Anyway, when my car sits overnight and starts it is getting a rough high idle until I feather the pedal or give it a minute or 2 and it is fine. It is warm now in the 70's and this just started. I had it to the dealer for oil change and they looked at it. There are no codes, they recommended changing the plugs and doing a decarb again. So I told them if I need plugs there is something wrong, Iridium OEM were installed.
Anyway, they suggested changing the throttle body since it has new sensors. I have have the TPS replaced before when engine was surging. They told me there are 2 sensors and one could be bad in throttle body. I don't get it, I use Hyundai air filter now and change every 15,000 miles and get oil changes regularly and they use Quaker State Synthetic blend. I am wondering if maybe I have a faulty PCV? I don't think that has been changed. Don't even know what the interval is. Previously I was told there was none, but I disagree.
What would cause me to get carbon build up like they keep telling me? I don't want trial and error and throw parts and money at it since there are no codes. I was going to drive it til it throws a code. I do highway driving in suburban area, mostly 65 mph. The car runs good, still the intermittent hard downshift when slowing down but nothing like before the tranny was replaced.
2004 Santa Fe .... 2.7 6 Cyl 4WD 150k miles
Recently I started experiencing RPMs surging upon startup and driving before my engine warms up. The problem has gotten worse to where I push on the accelerator the RPMs jump to 2700 and the transmission feels like it disengages. My initial thought was the tranny was going bad and slipping. I checked the fluid level in the T and found it was maybe a half Qt. low. I topped it off, but this had no impact on the problem. On a side note, I am able to use the manual shifting feature on the "His and Hers" Shifter and drive the vehicle without any issue. Transmission works fine in manual. The surging RPMs which only occur in Automatic mode, triggered the CEL and I got a code of P0123 which is high side voltage on the Throttle Position Sensor. I replaced the gray TPS with a new black one.
Upon startup the RPMS jumped to 3000 just sitting in Park. I disassembled and reinstalled figuring I had something bound in the throttle. After reassembly the idle went up to 2200, still no good! I reinstalled the original gray TPS and the RPMs, upon starting, RPMs were 1500 with the old sensor...still too high. I did reset the ECU twice during the process of putting in the new sensor and reinstalling the old sensor. Right now I found that when I disconnect the TPS electrical connector, the engine runs normal. It starts right up with the TPS totally disconnected and idles at 750 RPMs! It will not shift to 2nd gear though, when I try to drive it in Automatic Mode. I can however drive in Manual Mode and drive normal and shift right through the gears. Who needs automatic mode right?!!!
I have a 4 cylinder 2009 Sonata with an automatic transmission and it does not accelerate smoothly when starting out from idle. A slight touch on the accelerator pedal causes the motor to accelerate hard as though the pedal was pushed down a lot further than "a slight touch". Is this normal or should this car accelerate smoothly? I am wondering if there is a common problem with either the accelerator pedal sensor or maybe with the throttle servo.
View 3 RepliesI have an 06 volvo s40 with a 2.4l non turbo. When I reach about 2200 rpms I hear the valves tapping. When I put the car in park and rev the motor up the valves don't make any noise. Where to start.
View 6 RepliesOk, I was driving down the interstate in my 2002 Ford Escape XLT 4X4 and I noticed my rpm's reved to about 5000 from my cruising rpm of 2200 and it was as if it went into neutral. I coasted with engine running fine to the right shoulder and called a tow truck to the nearest dealer. No reverse, D, 2 or 1 only Park that worked.
View 14 RepliesIt is very cold here today about 10F. I started my 2009 Corolla about half hour ago just to make sure it would start. Started fine let it run at fast idle for awhile and shut it off. Went back out to start it again to head out and it will only run very briefly, maybe 1 second or so and then cuts off. It will continue to do that but will start and run normally. I tried for about 10 minutes but didn't want to run down the battery. I hope it is just the cold weather.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2009 Hyundai Sonata which gets a sporadic high screech upon startup. I associate this sound the key left in the ignition after the car has already turned over. It will go away as soon as I shift into drive. Is this the problem with the ignition switch or starter? How difficult is this to diagnose as it only happens on occasion? Assuming it's the ignition switch, might I be damaging the starter if it continues?
View 19 Replies2013 3.5 Ecoboost. Starting the truck first thing in the morning, it idles very rough for about 30 seconds and then smoothes out. If I drop it into gear it stays rough as I back out of the driveway. Once underway it runs fine and otherwise runs/idles very smooth for the rest of the day. Doesn't appear to have any other symptoms of spark plugs/boots misfire so I'm thinking it might be something else?
On my old 02 F150 with the 5.4 this usually happened when the Idle air control (IAC) would get plugged up with carbon. I'd clean it and the idle would smooth out. This truck doesn't appear to have one.
Spark plugs are on my list for the near future. 47k on the truck so they are almost geting due. Trying to get my superduty sold before I spend a lot of time on this truck.
Is there truely no cure for exhaust flutter on a 2002 f250 V10, bedsides putting on headers??? I have the the sound at shift points around 1800-2200 rpms. Sounds great before and after these points....
View 14 Replies2013 Sonata. What are the engine idling RPM's is when sitting at a red light? My engine seems to be a rough when sitting still.
View 8 Replies