Sonata NF (2006-10) :: 2009 - Engine Turns Over But Does Not Ignite
Mar 19, 2015
The engine turns over but does not ignite. I can hear the fuel pump priming or humming for about 2 seconds when key is turned to "on".
My car was hit the night before in a parking lot by a truck backing up. He hit the rear right rocker panel and part of the tail light. Could this have anything to do with it? I drove it home fine, it just wouldn't start the next morning.
At first I thought fuel pump, but after reading some threads here, they seem to say if I hear it hum it's working.
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Another issue to my Accent 2009 model, when I switched the key to Ignite, I can hear a low pitch buzzing sound somewhere in the front of driver seat, maybe in the steering wheel column or under the dashboard I don't know. Even when I already started the engine, or even when I am already running slow or fast, the sound is still there. What is that sound?
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2009 sonata 2.4 ... Until now car started and turned over w/o issue, maybe slightly rough starts here and there but never completely dead. Drove to work and started to drive home. Stopped for something to eat. came out and car wouldn't turn over. light seem fine, lights interior and console work, radio work. Tried portable jumper and wouldn't turn while on jumper. Walked got new battery at NAPA near. Had friend come and jump car-to-car and started right up. Drove home with out issue. got new battery in and still same no turn over. Tried several more time and eventually got to start. Drove for about 15-20 min thinking maybe needed time on alternator, got back home. Turned car off. Tried starting again, started right up. Turned off and tried again to test, no turn over.
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Audi 99 a6 quattro. Motor turns, battery is fine. Engine does not ignite. Spark happens but the engine does not hold. After 5 mins car starts. Once its warm no problem starting. Cold start is the issue. what do you think is issue? fuel injection, fuel pump???. I have seen the car stall on second gear sometimes on high throttle, reduce throttle it will come back on. I am suspecting some issue with fuel injection????
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When I make a right turn and bring the steering wheel back to center, I get a vibration. The ball joints were replace a year ago. The dealer put on a reman half shaft 2 months ago. I got an alignment and had the tires balanced and still no resolution. Still have the original struts after piling up 249k miles (lot of driving as a courier). It's a 2010.
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2009 Sonata LTD V6 ...
Process:
Unlock via key in the door, or via remote.
Insert key into the ignition, turn to start.
*If the radio was left on, it powers on.
*If the fan was left on, it powers on/blows.
*Headlights/interior lights all work.
But turning the key? Is *just* like turning the key on a car with a dead battery. The starter doesn't so much as click.
Stop, take the key out, repeat. Eventually, the car starts "normally". The end of the day going home, or next morning, etc? Just fine.
A few days per week, I get this issue. Of course, it never happens at the dealership. Things that have been replaced:
- The brake switch that caused the shifter to lock.
- The ignition, the first time I took the car in for this.
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I drive a 2006 Hyundai Sonata 4 cylinder (2.4) that has about 81,500 miles on it. Recently, I notice front-end squeaks when turning either hard left or right while traveling 10-15 mph or more. There are no squeaks on straight-away driving. The squeaks are not loud - more like muffled squeaks - and occur 1-3 times per occurrence. I asked several people at auto parts stores. Most tell me that it is likely my tie-rod ends which have no grease fittings. One or two people have mentioned CV joints but I discount this as there is no damage to the boots and I do not get the tell-tale clicking noise on turns.
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I have a kinda annoying problem with my 2010 Sonata. When I lock it via OEM remote (haven't tested the physical key-lock), within 1-40 min my vehicle starts panic. Randomly. Nothing is touching it. How to fix it besides "do not lock" or "cut your horn wire"..
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06 sonata v6 standard 16in tires. I do all my maintenance, but i am stumped. A sound that is best described as a rattle crossed with a metal object (bolt/nut) rolling down a rail. Strange i know. Checked for rubbing, nothing. Made sure all bolts and nuts were correctly tight. Does it whether braking or not during any speed. May be dropped object, but neither I or a mechanic could repeat during Right hand turn. I have changed my front pads and dbl checked that is not the cause ( was doing it before change anyway) my fear is I'm missing something and am fearful of a mechanical failure.
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I just bought 07 Sonata CRDI tiptronic and it turns out it has problem when shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear: rpms jump up and i feel the kick.
It is not that noticeable when shifting at 50kmph, but worse when shifting at 60k kmph.
Same on Drive or when shifting manually. What the problem could be?
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For a few months, I've noticed a problem with my power steering...that now seems to be getting worse. When driving at 70mph on the highway, I would notice sometimes as I ightsto slow down to exit the highway that my power steering would be gone. I'd get down the exit ramp, hit my first stop light, and usually the power steering would be back on. This would happen intermittently.
It's been happening more often, and I have now found that it doesn't only happen on the highway; yesterday this happened twice at probably 50mph and it took a few blocks for it to reengage. What the cause of this might be?
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I have a 2007 Hyundai sonata and I'm having a strange problem with my car. It doesn't happen alot but whenever I make certain turns the entire front end grinds and stops moving. It usually happens after being parked at an angle then pulling out.
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My car is 2008 Sonata GLS 2.4L. Recently the ESC off light turns on always when I drive a while after started the car. It still drives fine. But I have concerns of safety issues.
I heard it's a common issue for Sonata even 2011 model. I also heard Hyundai recalls for a system upgrade because of ESC off light problem. If it's true, will the dealership do it for my 2008 pre-owned Sonata for free?
It drives fine, but anyway it could be an potential safety issue. So should I drive the car to the dealership to have it fixed? I heard may owners spent a lot of time and money but never have it fixed.
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The ABS and ESC lights (amber) in my 06 Sonata are coming on intermittently.....
The lights just come on while driving....the ESC switch doesnt have any effect.....the brakes seem to work well....then, after several start cycles the lights will go out and all will be well again....then after a few start cycles and while driving they come on again.
I used the code tester from autozone but no codes are stored...they told me that brake codes aren't always accessible with their hand held unit though....
Also, I have noticed that when turning left or right I get a squeaking from the front brakes now and then,...it was doing this before the ABS/ESC light issue though...
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I have a 2007 Sonata 3.3 V6 GLS (CDN model) with 102k km (63K miles). Recently, I am noticing a rotational metal-like grinding noise from the front left wheel / engine area when engaging in hard right and left turns - usually a long looped highway on-ramp or sharp 90 degree turns. The interesting thing is this only happens when I am accelerating through the turns - when I left off the gas and cruise I don't hear it anymore.
On the side, I am also getting a single clunk noise when shifting from Park to Drive and vice versa from the same area (front left wheel) - not sure if this is related (i.e. if this is all related to a failing CV joint or wheel bearing).
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I have a 2009 Hyundai Elantra. I've been having an issue where my radio turns off and on intermittently. To clarify, it will not turn itself on if the button was off. However, if I'm listening to the radio it can turn itself off and back on again multiple times. This happens on AM/FM/AM and Auxiliary. I'm assuming it happens with CD, but haven't listened to that lately.
Sometimes it happens in rapid succession, other times it's off for five minutes or more and comes back on. Other times it stays off. Sometimes it behaves as it should. It doesn't seem to matter if the car is warmed up or not. Is this merely a wonky fuse or something more sinister?
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My wife couldnt get her 2011 SE to start this morning. It engine turns over strong but it wouldn't start. Brake lights worked. Brake pedal very hard. Tried several times but would not start. Finally I jumped battery just in case and it cranked. Don't know if this was coincidence or not. Car is two years old and only 30k. I checked for interior lights being left on or other things that might drain the battery.
Could a low Fob battery cause this? Brake switch? No codes thrown. Taking in to dealer but wanted to rule out a simple fix.
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My Mom has a 2009 Hyundai Elantra, 25k, good car no problems until yesterday. Turn the key and it cranks (turns the engine over for a second) then the starter kicks off (spins real and stops spinning the engine). It won't start like this. The car only has 25k on it, with the Hyundai 100k warranty.
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09 corolla. Wife said it was hard to start this morning and when she got off work. it started fine right after she got home. i waited a few hours, after dinner and went out to start it and it takes the engine about 3 seconds to start.
Normally when I turn the key the engine cranks up and starts. today it cranks or turns over about 3 times before starting. and there's no error/engine lights. tested the battery, full charge. not sure what else to check.
We are in Houston TX, with about 95'F day temps, you could call it a cold start since the engine has been resting and cooling off. but not cold like freezing temp.
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So I have an issue with my 2004 Elantra GT. I failed inspection because my CEL never turns on. Even when first starting the car. I originally had thought the bulb was burnt out, but it started working fine on its own a couple weeks ago. Then 2 days ago, it stopped working again. So, where should I start in finding the problem? I had a radio installed a couple of years ago, and I have had issues since. Like, my odometer button no longer works, and the radio will occasionally reset when I start the car. So maybe I should remove the dash fascia and see if there are any loose or unplugged wires?
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I have a 2006 Expedition with 90k miles. I am the original owner. don't drive the vehicle much just mostly when the family goes somewhere or when I'm putting the Jet skis in the lake.
About a year ago the air con went out and since I don't drive it that much I decided to fix it later, well now is later. How to diagnose the AC system. what I am looking for is a methodical step by step procedure for trying to find out what is causing my AC to not work.
the symptoms are, the compressor turns on runs for a few seconds and then turns off. inside the cab I can hear hear a hiss noise during the few seconds that the compressor comes on and fades away slowly when the compressor shuts off.
I bought a can of 134a with the gauge, I adjusted the gauge for the correct ambient temperature hooked up to the low side and was surprised to see that the Freon was only a little low. I topped it off but still no change in the compressor running.
I bought a set of manifold gauges from Harbor Freight (I know I know you get what you pay for) in any case I hooked up the gauges to see what the pressures are when the compressor turns on but only seeing a little change.
Any way I took my Speedy (expedition) to the local auto air conditioner shop the mechanic hooked his gauge set up to the vehicle, watched it for a few minutes, made some phone calls, came back. He did tell me that he was going to have to replace the compressor, condenser, dryer, expansion valves both front and back and flush the rest of the parts that did not get replaced. I suppose this is a good price if all that work really needs to be done???
However I would like to exhaust all of my options before I dump half the vehicles blue book value into the air conditioning. so I've been searching the internet and found that it is possible the problem may reside in a control valve that may be present in the type of scroll compressor that is in the expedition.
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