Short, the dome and interior light fuse keeps blowing. Car is 2009 hyundai sonata nf. Is the bcm computer gone? The fuse pops as soon as i put a fuse in the car. The car can be off or on..it doesn't matter.
View 57 RepliesI got Corolla 2012. Dome light fuse 10 amp is blowing off as soon as you put it in. Light bulbs checked seems it is not a problem. Maybe relay?
View 11 RepliesRecently while I was stupidly upgrading one of my dome lights while it was on (door open and yes stupid) I shorted it and blew the fuse. Of course jump in the drivers seat and go buy another fuse. To my amazement the car was dead. No power up starting, no door locks no fob operation or anything. The flashers and brake lights and horn worked fine and that was it.
What a great single point immobilizer!
Problem is you will lose clock, settings like reverse beep off, mpg, etc. I was dead in the water until I remembered in the engine fuse box there is a spare 15a fuse (and the fuse puller). The dome light fuse is there as well. Replaced the dome light fuse and all is well. Drove off like I had saved the world. Very strange. Looking at the wiring the junction block that the dome light fuse feeds also feeds LOTS of other areas of the car including the ECU.
Want to keep your kids from driving the car. Forget taking the keys. Pull the dome light fuse.
I bought my first Lexus, great car. 2003 GX470 with 106k. I have had one problem with the fuse for the dome light. This issue has been on going since I bought the vehicle a couple months back and I can usually fix the problem by just replacing the fuse. Now when I try to replace the fuse, the fuse sparks and blows before I can even put it into the slot. Obviously there is something going on here that won't allow the fuse to be inserted before blowing. How to rectify this issue?
View 2 RepliesEvery time I replace the fuse(under the hood) it blows almost immediately and no interior light work. When on all doors and overhead lights do work so I don't believe it's one of them shorting. Even tried bigger fuse.
View 5 RepliesI was installing xenon supply HIDs in my 2012 Sonata and when attaching the power cable to the battery my ratchet went ahead and touched metal while it was assisting me in tightening the nut
Small spark, tiny puff of smoke and the popping sound associated with such an event. I see what appears to be a little fuse under a clear plastic cover on the positive battery terminal itself. On it says 150 AMP. the pop sound came from that. So I am assuming its blown.
Here is my real concern...the red battery symbol now stays on when I start the car...
I have a 2007 Hyundai Accent. The interior dome light won't turn on, the trip mileage recycles every time the car turns on, the feature that won't let the locks lock while the key is in the ignition and the car is off doesn't work (what's that called), and the dashboard clock is dead.
The visor fell off and the two wires that provided the lighting for the visor mirror touched something, and I guess, shorted everything. Is there a fuse(s) I can change or do I need some serious electrical repair?
Did a search and read the manual and I cant seem to turn of the dome lights when I open the doors. For example... Sometimes my daughter falls asleep and I want to open the door at night without the lights coming on... Or If the mosquitoes are going crazy I might want to turn off the light so I don't get killed... I know I can hold the switch to the right and it turns lights on with doors closed, and hold for a second to the left to turn off. But what about opening the door? I know my old 2007 was able to do this function...
View 13 RepliesI replaced the standard bulbs with LEDs and noticed that even when they should be off, they remain lit ever so slightly. So I put back the old ones. This can't be common.
View 22 RepliesI got in my 2009 Sonata this morning, started it and turned on the headlights. The headlights turned on momentarily and then turned off. The 20 amp headlight fuse blew. I cleaned the battery ground on the fender and the battery terminals. I also cleaned the connection between the battery terminal connector and the negative cable. I put everything back together and installed a new 20 amp fuse. I turned the lights on. They lit momentarily and then, predictably, blew the fuse again. Curiously enough, the "passing lights",which are just the high beams on another position on the headlight switch, still work.
View 2 RepliesI'm having trouble figuring out how to remove the interior rear door handle from my 2009 Sonata. My wife scrapped the back door along a concrete parking post. I was able to find a replacement door in the same color, but the interior doesn't match. I'm able to get both door cards off but cannot for the life of me figure out how to remove the inside door handle.
I have: removed the screw and slid the handle over to get it off the side of the door. Popped the two cables off the door housing and was able to remove the cable from the door handle connection. But for the lock switch mechanism, that appears to be encircled by plastic and I can't see a way to remove it without breaking the locking mechanism.
My dome light stays on and green when my doors are closed and the door button is pressed. They light up bright white and normal in use but don't completely turned off unless I unpress the door button...
View 3 RepliesI was attempting to change my trunk light to LED but when I finally finished it didn't work! I tried to re-open the trunk with my remote and that didn't work. I had to start the engine and open the trunk using the switch on the door.
When I started the car I saw the clock was not working as was the dome light.
I probably should have unhitched the (-) battery cable, but was too lazy.
I started going through the fusebox under the hood and now I'm going through the fusebox just inside the door.
I have a 2006 passat and today when i was switching the bulbs out with different colored ones and the lights just went out along with the visor lights. I have checked all the fuses and bulbs to make sure they just didnt blow. There isnt much on the internet about this topic. What i have found out on the net is it could maybe be the (CCM). But i am unable to find that also.
View 2 Replies2001 Passat 1.8T ... The switch is in the correct position and the light comes on when the passenger door is opened. What causes the light to activate? I cannot find a switch anywhere on the door frame. Maybe a magnetic switch in the door?
View 2 RepliesI know this has been beaten to death for years, but I can't find anything to my specific problem. My dome light stays on but rest of my interior/running board lights will go off after 30 seconds on my 2000 Excursion 2wd with V10.
When I got truck it had the door ajar light on which I fixed with the WD40 trick. Then I realized I had no dome light up front - pulled off the cover and there were no bulbs. Replaced the bulbs but couldn't get the lights to go out. All the other interior lights would go off.
I've swapped relays, checked the fuses, used the WD40, and I've made sure dimmer switch wasn't all the way up. Only thing I can see is that passenger side bulb "foil" power thing for that dome light bulb is torn so that bulb won't work.
My camry used to crank a couple of seconds longer and then take. Yesterday it died just after starting and wont start. It cranks. Checked and found fuse 15 in eng comp blown. Changed it and blew again. Check fuel pump, it seems to work when momentarily apply power to it. The engine management light does not come on when swithing ignition on any more as well. The airbag light also does not come on since this as well. Was wondering if ecu is gone bad?
View 7 RepliesI recently purchased a 2007 Honda Fit and everything is good except for one thing. The headlights, interior dome light, and one light on the climate control dashboard pulse when the engine is on. The brightness pulses to be exact, and it becomes more intense at higher speeds, and when the car is in gear and not in neutral (this is a manual stick). It is not noticeable during the day, but a pain at night.
I took it in to get looked at and two different mechanics (including a Honda dealership) said they cannot figure out what is wrong with it. They tested the battery, alternator and voltage regulator, and they all tested fine. The guy at the Honda dealership played with the wire to the battery and it got a little bit better. They said replacing the alternator (which seems to be fine) is the only fix they can think of ($650).
Have a problem with a couple electric items in my 2001 Honda CR-V. The interior dome light no longer comes on when I open any of the doors. HOWEVER, when I turn the key off, the dome light DOES come on, stays on for a few seconds or until I open any door. What causes this? Fuse? Circuit board? Short in one of the door sensors?This seemed to have started sometimes after I got it back from a body shop from a minor collision that affected the sheet metal only, did not require major mechanical fixing. The clock in the center of the dash went out... maybe at the same time, perhaps just similar time. Have not been able to confirm if it works when removed from the car.
View 6 RepliesI attempted to remove a 7.5 amp fuse from the interior panel under the dash on the left side. Using the fuse removal tool in from the fuse block under the hood, I grabbed one and worked it out slowly.
When I got it out, the metal prongs were broken off of the plastic housing. I thought this was weird and looked into the fuse block trying to see if I can see the prongs. No luck!
I attempted to pull another fuse to see if it will come out and sure enough, the metal prongs are broken off in the fuse block. I tried again to see if I could see the the prongs but again, no luck!
I put the plastic housing (top half of the fuse) back into the slot and the electronics for that fuse is working. However, I am concerned that something is wrong and causing the fuses to break when attempting to pull them out.
A few years back, we had the unfortunate luck of have the Crank Position Sensor fail in our 2004 Sante Fe. The sensor failed again 2 years later. Most recently, it broke down again, and acted the same as it did when the CPS went....upon deceleration and braking, it lost power and began to chug before it finally shut off. This time, the ECU 20 amp fuse blew, and the engine light came on.
It had been raining heavily the day prior, so we thought that the ECU or harness got wet. It sat for a few days, and when we started it with the new fuse, it ran just fine, with the exception of the engine light remaining on. Wife drove it to work tonight, and the fuse popped again. Given that the engine light is on, could the failure be due to an emissions control sensor or it's wiring shorting out?