Sonata NF (2006-10) :: 2009 - AC Is Blowing Cold But Not Hard
Aug 31, 2014
Basically when I have it cranked on high (level 4) it feels like its blowing on level 2. some times when I start the car it doesn't even turn on. I have to tap or hit under the glove box for it to start. Is it wiring or could it be AC Blower fan or something else.
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My 2008 Elantra blows cold air, but just not as hard as it used to. At max setting, it's not blowing hard enough.
Also, my steering wheel starts to shake pretty bad going 70+ mph. What could be the problem for this?
I don't know the first thing about cars!
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I have a 3.3 limited ed 09 sonata that I soo enjoy driving. However, two weeks ago the AC stopped blowing completely. It's a fully automatic unit and no air movement in any position at any temp. The compressor is coming on as I can hear it and driving on interstate I can feel the slightest bit of cold air coming thru. I bought a new resistor that was over a hundred bucks and it did nothing. I took the blower motor out and used clip on wires str8 to the battery and it works. ...
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I got in my 2009 Sonata this morning, started it and turned on the headlights. The headlights turned on momentarily and then turned off. The 20 amp headlight fuse blew. I cleaned the battery ground on the fender and the battery terminals. I also cleaned the connection between the battery terminal connector and the negative cable. I put everything back together and installed a new 20 amp fuse. I turned the lights on. They lit momentarily and then, predictably, blew the fuse again. Curiously enough, the "passing lights",which are just the high beams on another position on the headlight switch, still work.
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My 2010, 4 cyl. auto started giving me hard downshifts awhile ago, when cold. Mainly going from 4 to 3, and 3 to 2. I had the tranny fluid changed a few months ago at 56,000 miles, but no difference. So, that left me with the dealer and this is their diagnosis:
Updated ECM and TCM and hard shift still present. Vehicle will require new PCM (TCM?) to resolve problem.
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My car also had the hard downshift when engine was cold and under 30mph. I seen where Sbr 711 had posted the TSB 10-AT-007-1
I printed this and took to the local dealer & also showed where it was mentioned as a recall.. The advisor looked up on his computer and showed no recalls for the 09 sonata?
I went ahead and scheduled the reprogram update and was told the technician can pull up more info on recalls than the advisor can? Any way they did the reprogram today and $89. later still no recall? How do I prove that in fact this is a recall & get refunded?
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My 09' has developed the abrupt downshift issue at 20 mph when cold. Once the transmission is warmed up, the problem goes away. There is a Service Bulletin on this problem so it is known and a fix is in place. The fix according to the Service Instruction is to remap the transmission software.
How this remap affected their vehicle. My car has been returning great gas mileage, and I am concerned that this fix could hurt that. If mileage is adversely affected, I'd rather live with the downshift IF it won't hurt anything.
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I have 114,00 miles on my car. Plugs changed and decarbonization done at 99,000 as well as ECM reprogram or update ($99). Anyway, when my car sits overnight and starts it is getting a rough high idle until I feather the pedal or give it a minute or 2 and it is fine. It is warm now in the 70's and this just started. I had it to the dealer for oil change and they looked at it. There are no codes, they recommended changing the plugs and doing a decarb again. So I told them if I need plugs there is something wrong, Iridium OEM were installed.
Anyway, they suggested changing the throttle body since it has new sensors. I have have the TPS replaced before when engine was surging. They told me there are 2 sensors and one could be bad in throttle body. I don't get it, I use Hyundai air filter now and change every 15,000 miles and get oil changes regularly and they use Quaker State Synthetic blend. I am wondering if maybe I have a faulty PCV? I don't think that has been changed. Don't even know what the interval is. Previously I was told there was none, but I disagree.
What would cause me to get carbon build up like they keep telling me? I don't want trial and error and throw parts and money at it since there are no codes. I was going to drive it til it throws a code. I do highway driving in suburban area, mostly 65 mph. The car runs good, still the intermittent hard downshift when slowing down but nothing like before the tranny was replaced.
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I just bought a 2009 Hyunda Sonata, 4 cylinder limited edition with 82k miles on it about a month ago. It was maintained to the suggested maintenance schedule by Hyundai dealers prior to me owning it.
after about 2 weeks, it started having issues when slowing down. I narrowed it down to being a harsh downshift from 4th to 3rd when breaking when cold. After driving for 10 minutes it doesn't do it anymore.
My temporary fix is to manually downshift it into 3rd when I have to slow down. It seems to be that it stays in 4th too long and shifts late into 3rd, but I wouldn't think downshifting late would really matter.
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The last couple of times I've started the car from a cold start the RPM's fluctuate up and down for about 30 seconds and then it stops.
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My 2009 Sonata Limited always has the front window defroster come on in cooler temps when the climate control is set to AUTO. This is aggravating since it shouldn't do that. I took it in for service last year at this time and they didn't find anything wrong and I gave up arguing with the dealer about it.
Is there a sensor or something that is out of adjustment? It comes one when the temp is about 40F or lower and you just start the car after it's been sitting cold. I don't notice it so much when I am out on multiple errands.
Another thing that I notice is that I can never just turn the fans on for air circulation when the temps are moderate, not needing A/C or heat. If it turn the fan on, it always seems to blow cold air feeling like the A/C is on, even if it is not in AUTO mode. I complained about the same thing and the dealer said the unit is operating OK.
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I have a weird problem with the A/C on my 93 S10. It will start blowing warm air but if I accelerate real hard it will start blowing cold again.
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Have 2003 V6 FWD Passat. A/C blows hard but quit blowing cold. Noticed last week, that sitting for a long light, A/C would quit blowing cold, then cycle on again every 20-30 sec. After worked fine. Yesterday no cold air.
Read on forums about the 384 relay. My electric fan is NOT coming on. Started car, turned A/C on high, and checked voltage on connecter to fan. was negligible. Car was fully warmed up, so i figure voltage should be 14.0 VDC
Making assumption that it is either the AC relay 384, or the fan relay but there are two, a 214 and a 213.
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I have an 09 Limited with the dual automatic climate control. It finally got cool enough to start running the heater. The passenger side vents are throwing cold air instead of warm like the drivers side. This includes the windshield defroster. I'm thinking there is a diverter "somewhere" that is not working properly.
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I have a 2011 Hyundai Sonata 2.0 Turbo Limited and the A/C seems to only be blowing cold air from passenger vents, and on driver side "warm/ hot ". What steps or what i can do to get this fixed.
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I own a 2011 Hyundai Sonata GLS. Everything with the vehicle is fine until November of 2015. I noticed that the passenger side is blowing cold air when it should be blowing hot air. The driver side is fine. I thought it was a thermostat issue. At first I didn't change it until I noticed that the temperature gauge was acting up and realized that my thermostat was stuck open which made the engine over cooled. Once I replace the thermostat, I thought it would solve the issue with the passenger side blowing cold air but it did not. Basically its not a heater core issue, blend door is fine, the hoses that runs to and from the radiator to the firewall is fine and the one that runs to the water pump is good. I closed the passenger vents so only the driver side blows hot air. Its an annoying problem. I know the dealer can fix it but they want an arm and leg and it seems like I may be forced to take it to get it fixed.
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I do have an issue with a 2010 Toyota Corolla A/C. It is not blowing any cold air, just ambient air.
Try troubleshooting it by checking the freon on the low port. Reading was very high so it seems like the compressor clutch is not engaged. However, in reading up about 2010 version, I found there is actual no physical compressor clutch. There is also no "relay" to bypass such that you can engage the clutch. Reading further seems to indicate that it's a solenoid system, which I'm not familiar with.
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I have Nissan Tiida 2009, I recently replaced the compressor, The AC is blowing cold air now, if the car is standing still and I turn the AC on, everything works the way it is supposed to I have checked the fan speed also, all is ok but once I start driving on the main Highway after a while it feels like the Ac is not throwing enough air, its not like it stops cooling because if I put my hand near the vents, It is still cold around that area but at that point even if I increase the fan speed to max the throw of air remain the same. it becomes so less that I start sweating. What could be the problem here.
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I have a 2010 F150 and now only cold air comes out of the vents. I have not changed the thermostat since the truck is not running hot. I have read that the blend door may be stuck. Where the blend door is on the 2010.
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I have a 2012 truck that the AC wasn't blowing cold air this summer so I took it in and they said nothing was wrong... Took back in and they replaced vent control... worked a little bit. Fall came and my windows fog up and really never clears up so I take it in and they said it is blowing hot air but I told them that isn't the problem but the moister in the cab is the problem. I feel I'm getting the run around.
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I have a problem with my Lariat blowing cold air on the driver's side. It happened last weekend when it was snowing hard and drove around town for a couple hours with defrost on. After I got out on the interstate the cold air was blowing in through the vent on the driver's door and down by my feet. It was -4 driving home. I though that some ice may have gotten in and jammed a damper open allowing cold air in. I took the truck in and thawed it out and the same thing happens. Cold air out of drivers side and hot air out of the passengers side. The truck has the dual heat/cool setup and it seems as if the driver's side is stuck on cold but I have it set on just driver. It was only -25 this morning.
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