Sonata NF (2006-10) :: 2008 - Radiator Fan Runs Constantly
Feb 13, 2013
I have a 08 2.0 CRDi and my radiator fan runs constantly on high as soon as the key is turned on and stays on high until I turn the key off. Have found the fan controller and wondered if that might be faulty but don't wont to replace it for nothing. also where is the temp switch is on the engine or radiator?
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I have hooked up an amplifier in my 06 sonata.For that i had disconnected the battery for around 4 hours.After finishing the installation i reconnected the battery started the car now airbag light is constantly on. What should i do?
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2000 1.8t ATW/AEB auto. We completed the motor swap and the car ran/runs perfectly. Everything functions but just outta the blue the aux fan decides to run when the key is on the on position. And no the A/C is not turned on.
Pulling relay 214 does nothing! It still runs. Pulling ALL relays does not do anything...it still runs. It has constant voltage to it while the key is on. The car runs perfect otherwise but the aux fan is incredibly loud and makes the driving experience suck.
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My radiator fan stays on after car is off... forever. Pull fuses and it does turn off but comes right back on when replaced.
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I have a 1990 Toyota Corolla and the Radiator fan comes on when the car is started and it does not turn off until engine is turned off.
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I smelled antifreeze when walking by my fiances Sonata, so I popped the hood and saw there was a small leak from the upper radiator hose, where it meets the thermostat housing. I adjusted the stock clamp, but the leak was much worse.
I swapped it out for new clamp that you can tighten, and all is well again. But, what I noticed when I had it off was that the metal neck of the housing was really corroded. Only 15,000 on the car, so I was surprised to see that the corrosion on the metal had already built up causing the leak (pushing the hose away from the housing). I scraped and scuffed to get it clean again, but just wanted to give you all the heads up in case you notice a leak in the same area. The antifreeze tested good and is really clean.
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I have a Hyundai Sonata 2006. About a month and a half ago, I got in an accident and had to have the very front of the car repaired (they replaced the radiator, a/c unit, hood and a few other smaller things). The receipt that lists everything out in detail shows that the antifreeze/coolant was filled.
Fast forward to yesterday, and I'm getting an oil change. I also asked them to check out the front tire on the driver's side, as it seemed to have a slow leak. The woman at the counter wrote down to check the front left tire. A couple hours later, the guy calls me up and tells me that they found a nail in the right tire and will patch it up but nothing in the left. He also says that I am low on coolant and that he highly recommends I get the radiator flushed. Of course I told him not to do it since the radiator was just installed last month (well within the 90 day warranty).
I got the car home, checked the coolant level, and sure enough, it was way below the L. I haven't noticed any fluid under the car in parking spots or the driveway. I figured I would call up the place that did the repair work on Tuesday (it being a holiday weekend and they were already closed) and ask them about it. The receipt does say that it is an aftermarket part, but it wouldn't need to be flushed already, right?
Around 1 AM this morning, I heard a loud bang. It was my driver's side tire. What are the odds that the mechanic thinks that driver's side is right and the receptionist thinks that it is left? Do you think that it is more likely the patch failed or that the unpatched tire burst? Who should I call first on Tuesday: the mechanics that did the repairs about the radiator, or the mechanics that did the oil change/patch job?
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I have a 2006 Sonata 6-cyl with 124K miles on it that also has an engine light that stays on but the car runs fine with the solid light. Only on a COLD start, usually first thing in the morning, is when the engine light starts to flash and the car runs very rough. When the engine light flashes and the car is shut off for about 5 seconds and immediately restarted,the engine light again stays solid and the car runs fine. I have had this issue for approx 2 years.
One mechanic says the code that always comes up is "P0306" (cyl 6 misfire) when the engine light stays on solid. When the light flashes and the computer is read,it gives EIGHT separate codes and all are cylinder misfires (P0300-multiple misfires and then P0301 thru P0306 for each cylinder misfire).
One dealer in the Phoenix,AZ area says my #6 cylinder valve is sticking and I need a full valve job because they supposedly did a compression test on all cylinders (which I doubt they did). I have spent upwards of $2000.00 already at both the dealer and 2 other mechanics to try and find the issue. I feel it is an electrical problem (sensor or computer itself) because one would think the car should run rough ALL the time if it was the actual valve sticking,but it runs fine when the engine light stays solid. I am running out of time because my emission test is due in 4 months. I do not trust this dealer to diagnose this issue; they have proven to me they are incompetent and just want me to pay through the nose for possible fixes until they finally just happen to stumble upon the correct problem.
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My father's 1998 Dodge Grand Caravan SE radiator fan runs constantly - even with the ignition off. He has to disengage the battery for the fan to quit running - what might be wrong?
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I can usually find what Im looking for with a quick search but I have had no luck with this issue.
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The past week I have noticed my battery cooling fan running constantly on all highway trips - 20 mile one-way trips going 65-70MPH.
The performance of the battery doesn't seem be degraded, but it seems like the battery is hopping more between charging cycle or whatever you would call it , where you watch the instantaneous MPG on the highway drop down for 10 seconds to 40-50, then back up to 60-70.
The car is a 2011 Prius III. It did not run like this earlier in the summer in the same weather conditions, I would hear the fan maybe once every few weeks in hot 90 degree weather. Now I hear it constantly. This is my first summer owning the Prius so this may be normal, but I wanted to double check with you all if this is a sign of premature traction battery death or something.
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i have a 2006 sonata v6 3.3 couple off days water in my radiator started to finish every morning I have to refill it again I haven't noticed any leaking near the engine or under the vehicle but when i drive around i noticed a steam is coming out of my air vent though the air condition is off and the temperatures of the engine rises when i tried to open the radiator cap it was already empty i checked around inside the car i have found the floor mat in the passenger side is wet
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I just put rear brakes on my 2008. The parts fit fine but the passenger side runs hot. Very hot after just five miles.
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I got a 2004 VW Touareg, V8, 4.2L, I really love it and it's a nice one.
But since last winter (Dec. 2015), I found that the only one of the radiator fan (the large one, there was one larger fan together with a smaller one right under the hood attached to the back of the radiator) is working after I pulled my key off. I have to say probably I didn't notice it before but this time it drains the battery. I didn't drive it for 3 month since then since I was abroad for business. But weeks ago I started to jump start it whenever I need to drive, and the battery was drain after completely and can not be jumped any more.
I got this battery about 1 year ago (Feb. 2015), the repair guys put a "Super Starter Extreme" for me, I found it yesterday when I decided to change the battery by myself and drop the car to a near repair shop.
Here is the previous battery link. [URL] .....
(To be honest I'm not sure if this one is really a choice for my car, but it worked for a year).
And I have to go Walmart to get a new battery in 'cause that's the nearest place I can go for my convenience.
I get a "EverStart" by search with my vehicle model. [URL] ....
Now I can start the car and drive but the radiator fan will still keep working like 4 minutes after the engine is off.
If this is a normal situation, I checked online, a lot of people don't take it serious and say it is the way it's designed to be. One thing I found when I open the hood is that the smaller one starts to work when I switch the contact housing from the larger one to it. Always, only one fan is working and it goes with that specific housing.
I have two questions,
1. Do I need to go VW dealer and check what's happening? (I tried several repair shop nearby and they know nothing about VW touareg, espaciall it prob came to be a electrical problem)
2. Is is a problem of battery? If the new battery I got is still not good, what is the right one to put in. I saw people recommending Odyssey PC1350, but thats a lot more expensive.
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the radiator fan runs always with key on. Since it is driven only up to 10- 15 miles and Honolulu is warm I haven't been too diligent in finding the problem. Will it wear the fan motor out prematurely (110 K on engine)?
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I got a 2004 VW Touareg, V8, 4.2L, I really love it and it's a nice one.
But since last winter (Dec. 2015), I found that the only one of the radiator fan (the large one, there was one larger fan together with a smaller one right under the hood attached to the back of the radiator) is working after I pulled my key off. I have to say probably I didn't notice it before but this time it drains the battery. I didn't drive it for 3 month since then since I was abroad for business. But weeks ago I started to jump start it whenever I need to drive, and the battery was drain after completely and can not be jumped any more.
I got this battery about 1 year ago (Feb. 2015), the repair guys put a "Super Starter Extreme" for me, I found it yesterday when I decided to change the battery by myself and drop the car to a near repair shop
(To be honest I'm not sure if this one is really a choice for my car, but it worked for a year).
And I have to go Walmart to get a new battery in 'cause that's the nearest place I can go for my convenience.
I get a "EverStart" by search with my vehicle model,
Now I can start the car and drive but the radiator fan will still keep working like 4 minutes after the engine is off.
One thing I found when I open the hood is that the smaller one starts to work when I switch the contact housing from the larger one to it. Always, only one fan is working and it goes with that specific housing.
I have two questions,
1. Do I need to go VW dealer and check what's happening? (I tried several repair shop nearby and they know nothing about VW touareg, espaciall it prob came to be a electrical problem)
2. Is is a problem of battery? If the new battery I got is still not good, what is the right one to put in. I saw people recommending Odyssey PC1350, but thats a lot more expensive, I'm just worried if that battery can solve the problem.
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I have a 1990 Toyota pick up and, even though I have had the radiator removed and tested twice for leaks, I still loose fluid. I drive 30 miles - after having filled the radiator to the top - and then find it empty. The overflow radiator fluid bottle is always full to the top but the radiator will not stay full. My radiator man has told me to place a large piece of cardboard under the car to see if there are any leaks - there are non. I pay more in coolant than I do in fuel!
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The radiator fan on my '11 Escape only runs on high. When the car is cold, the radiator fan does not come on. But as it warms up, the fan does seem to come on at the right time. But when it does, it is pretty loud and runs very fast. I assume it's running on high, because I don't recall whether or not there is a low. Both fans appear to be running, so I'm thinking both fan relays are good. Perhaps the main relay (30C) has gone bad?
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My son's 2001 Dodge Neon tends to run hot. The radiator fan comes on while the engine is running, but does not stay on when the engine is turned off, even if the temp indicator is in the range where the fan should be on. Wiring diagram looks like the fan control relay only works when the ignition is in ON or RUN, which would indicate that this is the way the electrical system is designed, but that seems weird...I thought the fan is supposed to operate even if the engine is turned off. We have already replace the thermostat.
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It started out w/ my wife swapping from the front fuel tank to the rear tank due to the fuel qty getting real low. Then the next day when I drove it I had bad fuel qty and amp meter indication, I found a blown fuse on my fuel qty/amp meter gauges. I replaced the fuse and got my indications back. Now I hear my front tank fuel pump is running constantly when selected to its position. Its now full of gas and still runs constantly. The rear tank/pump operates normal. I am wondering if I ran that pump empty and lost its prime? What is the best way to burp it?
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This has happened twice so far, I pull out of my driveway then shift to drive. When I shift, I feel a little lock up in the steering wheel and the esc indicator comes on and stays on even when not moving. I then shift to park and turn off the car then back on and it is perfectly fine. Also when the indicator is on, hitting the ESC off button does nothing. What should i do?
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