Sonata NF (2006-10) :: 2008 - Hot Air Blown From Foot Vents
Aug 28, 2010
08 Sonata: I have been noticing this for a couple of months.
Its summer out here in CO and my car typically has the the thermostat on cold, but the AC is off, Air on fresh air (default with AC off), windows rolled down. After driving the car for ~ 5-10 minutes, the vents for the driver and passenger's feet blow out hot air. It gets just a little difficult to breathe and I am forced to turn the AC on. The AC works fine, no issues.
I am at 43k miles and wanted to run this by the forum before heading to the dealer.
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Just over 90,000 miles.
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I have a Hyundai Sonata 2006. About a month and a half ago, I got in an accident and had to have the very front of the car repaired (they replaced the radiator, a/c unit, hood and a few other smaller things). The receipt that lists everything out in detail shows that the antifreeze/coolant was filled.
Fast forward to yesterday, and I'm getting an oil change. I also asked them to check out the front tire on the driver's side, as it seemed to have a slow leak. The woman at the counter wrote down to check the front left tire. A couple hours later, the guy calls me up and tells me that they found a nail in the right tire and will patch it up but nothing in the left. He also says that I am low on coolant and that he highly recommends I get the radiator flushed. Of course I told him not to do it since the radiator was just installed last month (well within the 90 day warranty).
I got the car home, checked the coolant level, and sure enough, it was way below the L. I haven't noticed any fluid under the car in parking spots or the driveway. I figured I would call up the place that did the repair work on Tuesday (it being a holiday weekend and they were already closed) and ask them about it. The receipt does say that it is an aftermarket part, but it wouldn't need to be flushed already, right?
Around 1 AM this morning, I heard a loud bang. It was my driver's side tire. What are the odds that the mechanic thinks that driver's side is right and the receptionist thinks that it is left? Do you think that it is more likely the patch failed or that the unpatched tire burst? Who should I call first on Tuesday: the mechanics that did the repairs about the radiator, or the mechanics that did the oil change/patch job?
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Hot air blowing out of the vents when the temp control is dialed all the way to cold (but without A/C on)? On days when temps are in the 70s, I'd be perfectly content to drive around with the vent on blowing exterior-temp air around the cabin. However, even with the climate control system off, I still get hot air radiating out of the vents -- I can even feel the warmth at my feet. I've never had a car that seemed to heat all the air that comes out of the vents despite the position of the temp dial (well above the ambient exterior air temperature).
When the A/C is on, I get cold air so my A/C works. It just seems like I can't utilize the "vent w/o A/C" option unless it's cold out. I've got the manual climate controls, no issues with the car running hot -- just hot vent air unless A/C is on.
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Push A/C button is always on green. The (air speed) 01234 button is also always on green. the Push button turns on and off orange whenever I click it.
Anyways, the AC doesn't blow any hot air... always just cold. I've adjusted the dial to red and have left it there for a long time... no hot air. Any trouble shooting I can do?
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I have an 09 Limited with the dual automatic climate control. It finally got cool enough to start running the heater. The passenger side vents are throwing cold air instead of warm like the drivers side. This includes the windshield defroster. I'm thinking there is a diverter "somewhere" that is not working properly.
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My wife and I went out to dinner tonight and were about 2 miles from home and stopped at a stoplight. I had my foot on the brake, and the motor just cut off. Was playing music through the system from my cell phone. Sound did not cut off. I immediately hit the start button and nothing happened, then the second time I hit the start button, it started and everything seemed ok. I don't know of anything I could have done to cause the engine to cut off.
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I have a Sonata 2008 model which has done only 40K miles so far. All of a sudden i got the engine management light on and i scanned it in the garage. They are saying the fault is with EGR Valve and it needs to be replaced. They reset it and now the light is not ON.
Could it just be a glitch or is it really a problem with EGR valve. I am really confused on what to do, because when i got a second opinion from a local garage they said there is no need to replace - simply a clean would do....
2 days after the engine light reset, when i took the car off the park i suddenly got a grinding noise from the front of the car and i switched if off and re-started and the noise went away..not sure whether this could be linked with EGR valve or was it a simple gear slip.
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I'm a long time Sonata owner ( 2004 2.7L 291K miles) and recently purchased a 2008 3.3L Sonata with 40K miles and have a question about the 2008 3.3L. I've noticed a ticking sound when the car is cold. The ticking gets quiet between shifts, and eventually goes away once the car is warmed up.
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I kept it revved until it reached normal operating temp. When I took my foot slowly off the gas, rpm dropped to about 500-600 and it seemed to pulse . I think engine was raising throttle to keep from stalling. It stalls if I try to put in gear without pressing on gas to raise throttle.
The spark plugs were changed at about 70K mikes. I have not read any codes as the car is stuck in the driveway. Could it be a vacuum leak? I know the Entourages have air intake hose leaks that cause rough idle but with a 6 cyl it still runs. Fuel pump problem?
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I have a 08 2.0 CRDi and my radiator fan runs constantly on high as soon as the key is turned on and stays on high until I turn the key off. Have found the fan controller and wondered if that might be faulty but don't wont to replace it for nothing. also where is the temp switch is on the engine or radiator?
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My 2008 Hyundai Sonata wouldn't start on two separate occasions after I had refilled my tank. The first incident happened a little over a month ago (early August 2011), the starter would crank, and crank, but no signs of life in the engine. Tested the spark plugs, I was getting spark, but the sucker wouldn't start. The car was only at about 55k miles when this problem began.
I had the car towed to the dealership, and they said after 4 long attempts, they got it to start. I took it home, and the next morning I couldn't start it again. Towed it back a second time, and it started right up for them. Drove it back home again, and for a little more than a month, the car ran fine, but things started acting up again.
A few days ago the wife pulled the car out of the garage (fyi: my garage is level) stopped the car on our slanted driveway and when she came back to start it just minutes later, it hesitated, but did turn over. I filled up the tank, parked it in my garage and the very next morning, I could not start my car again.
Called for a tow from AAA, and the driver said "let me try something". Pulled out a hammer, and wacked the bottom of my gas tank 4 or 5 times. The tow guy gets in, tuns the ignition to engage the fuel pump (didn't turn the key all the way), he does this about 4 times, then the very next turn of the key it starts right up. The driver said it sounded like a bad fuel pump.
I drive the car back to the dealership (this is the third time) and talk to the same guy I had dealt with all along. He calls me later in the day to tell me they finally got it to not start and were able to isolate the problem to the fuel pump sensor. They replaced the fuel pump assembly and I was off and running.
To summarize:
*Refilling the tank on two separate occasions seemed to be related to the car not starting the following day.
*Towing the car allowed the car to jostle back & forth, which for some reason would allow the dealer to start it when it arrived.
*Was able to start the car by hitting the fuel tank (just underneath it) with a hammer, turning the key 3/4 of the way on a few times, then turning the key all the way.
*Dealer diagnosed bad fuel pump sensor, and replaced fuel pump assembly.
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